Go East! Collect Flowers of Japanese Couture

1970s, Hanae Mori, Hiroko, Inspirational Images, lord snowdon, snowdon, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

In Japan, land of the blossoming couture, Hanae Mori is a favourite daughter. Her clothes mix European classic design with oriental tradition, the Madame Butterfly fabrics are her on creation, she veils them layer on layer.

Her first boutique opened in 1947, the present score is twenty-five, and seventeen factories, hundreds of delightfully dressed ladies east and west —actresses, embassy wives, even crown princesses.

Since 1962 she has sold in New York. And now, in Harrods’ International Row, a unique few will arrive twice ayear to join Antonellis, Lanvins, Givenchys and others in their global collection.

Flowering in Hanae Mori silks here, tiny Hiroko, ex-Cardin favourite model, beautiful from the top of her black pageboy bob to the soles, of size two-and-a-half geta. Above: Crocus and chrysanthemum sunset chiffon over satin, mandarin coat and slit dress of matching print.

Below: Huge white and rose daisies on inky chiffon over a printed silk slip. Long scarf From £250 each,in a range at Harrods. Pearls by Mikimoto. Hiroko’ s Gala make-up: Orange Dazzle over Poppy Dazzle Super-smooth lipstick, Flame Darle nail polish

Photographed by Snowdon.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1972.


1970s, Inspirational Images, lord snowdon, snowdon
An impression of the ballet Ondine Photographed by Snowdon at Nymans, the home of his mother, the Countess of Rosse in Sussex.

His eye for imagery and ability to create illusion is illustrated by his photograph of a ballet dancer in the role of Ondine for a calendar for ICI. ‘The girl was in the lake, surrounded by pale, pale blue and she was just coming out of the water.’ He photographed her in the lake at his mother’s house, Nymans, in Sussex, one freezing April morning. ‘I let off smoke bombs, but they didn’t work, so I lit some leaves to make blue smoke. I thought the poor girl would freeze to death, so I filled one of those thermos buckets with hot water, and put it just below water-level, and she was stood in the hot water – in gum boots; but you wouldn’t know it, because she was standing in the blue-lit haze.

Date unknown. Photographed by Snowdon.

Scanned from Model Girl by Charles Castle, 1977.

Helen Mirren in Vogue, 1976

1970s, helen mirren, snowdon, Vogue

Helen Mirren has been playing since October in Lindsay Anderson’s repertory experiment at the Lyric, as Nina in The Seagull, and as”a foolish girl out for a fast buck” in the highly successful Ben Travers’ farce, The Bed Before Yesterday. It is a hard life, and she doesn’t seem to weaken. With the adrenalin shots of at least one performance a day, she goes on to eat, to drink and to dance the night away; only retiring early when there is a good late-night movie on television. She did think a new regime was needed: “I’m about to go out and buy a book on yoga”. Now she might do ten minutes of the Canadian PTX exercises, and eat a lot or nothing at all. Her clothes are pretty, secondhand market pieces mixed with things from shops like Che Guevara. She uses Tarn Hows Otto scent which she buys by mail order from the Lake District. What she really enjoys is make-up.

“I wear masses during the day but tend to take it off for the stage, it can look overdone so easily. I mix my own foundation because no one product is perfect, and they do seem to vanish into my skin. One is the right colour, one the right consistency, and I go on mixing them with my lovely Borghese powder till it works. Make-up can be daunting, all the big names, so I buy most in Boots, use kohl and a particular Mary Quant violet eye tint.”

She is hardly a new name; twelve years ago as a schoolgirl she received dazzling notices in the National Youth Theatre. Born in London, 28 years ago, “the fastest birth on record at Queen Charlotte’s”, she grew up in Leigh-on-Sea. Her family, she says, could not be described as theatrical-“though my Auntie Olga was a showgirl, briefly, and my father is a musician; he used to play the viola but couldn’t raise a family on that.”

Films have been The Age of Consent, Savage Messiah, Oh! Lucky Man, and she has appeared as Miss Julie and in A Midsummer Night’s Dream on television. She would like to do more filming—if she can escape the stage—but if she belts out her Teeth ‘n’ Smiles’ role with as much bottle as she did at the Royal Court, the show could run well past October. “I’ve never stayed in one place for a whole season, but I suppose it will be good for the garden.” The garden grows behind the green and yellow painted house she shares with a friend in Fulham. Inside are signs of builders just passed through, paisley and faded Japanese silk cushions, busy lizzies, a Christmas present piano and Rosie, her black and white rabbit, who joins her here to be photographed by Lord Snowdon.

Helen making up at her dressing table wearing her own silk kimono and made-up wearing Krizia’s flowered pink crepe de chine. Helen and bicycle outside her Fulham house, left, wearing Krizia’s flowered pink silk crepe de chine pyjama suit, £219, at Buffy, Conduit St. With Rosie, the rabbit, right, among the cushions of her living-room sofa, wearing Albini’s smoked stained- glass print crepe de chine pantaloon suit with camisole top and buttoned ankles, £80.90; matching sandals. All by Albini for Trell, at Elle Italian Shops. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Her hair by Leslie at Smile.

Photographs by Snowdon. Vogue, March 1976.