Taking it on the run

1970s, Architecture, Brutalism, Converse, elisabeth novick, Inspirational Images, Janice Peskett, Jim O'Connor, mr freedom, Pringle, South Bank, Tommy Roberts, Vogue

Taking it all away from complications, planned decorations, many of the clothes you know, into a new world of white — where the action is. Clean-limbed clothes, marvellously young and free. Like this worksuit, above, red buttoned, red stitched white canvas jumping ahead into the sportslight. Jim O’Connor at Mr Freedom, £9.90. Pink suede cap, blue spotted visor. Janice Peskett at Mr Freedom, about £3.90. White cashmere sweater, by Pringle, £11, at Hills’ Cashmere House. Running shoes, Converse All Star sneakers, red flash and white, £4.99½, at Jack Hobbs, 56 Fleet St, E.C.4. Take it from here. Get clean away.

I do love a bit of South Bank Brutalism with my boutique clothing!

Photographed by Elisabeth Novick.

Scanned from Vogue, April 15th 1971.

let your hair flame curly like this

1970s, barbara daly, barry lategan, grace coddington, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Screaming Mimi, Vogue

Ablaze with the colour of Leonard’s exclusive vegetable henna, imported from Persia, cold-wave permed with Wella Structurelle and set to frame the face. Palest skin smoothed by Barbara Daly with Angel Face Cameo All-in-One Make-Up, dusted with Translucent Light Fashion Compact, blushed with Soft Rose Blush & Gloss. Cutex Rosy Blinkers colours the eyes with Angel Face Sable Automatic Mascara. Lips shot with Cutex Wineberry Lipstick to match the iridescent Blueberry Schemer nails.

Silver flecked red blouse by Screaming Mimi, scarf by Woolworths.

Hair coloured by Daniel, permed by Sandra, styled by Celine, all at Leonard.

Model is Grace Coddington.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1972.

Ossie invents summer… Patti wears it.

1960s, celia birtwell, david bailey, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, Pattie Boyd, pre-raphaelite, quorum, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Yellow vibrations, sun crepe printed with black and green, cut out at shoulders, frilled like a waterfall down tight sleeves; 15 gns. All clothes by Ossie Clark at Quorum, 113 King’s Rd.

Look at summer through new eyes. Ossie Clark sees you in shepherdess smocks of voile, in long crepe dresses, reed-thin red or printed by Celia Birtwell. Pattie Boyd looks at it her way. All at Quorum.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1969.

I think this editorial might be one of the first I ever scanned, back in even my pre-blog days. I may have posted it on MySpace (don’t judge me, I feel ancient enough as it is). I’ve been meaning to properly rescan for years, but finally the time seemed right. It is the perfect combination of designer, model, photographer and a stunning use of Pre-Raphaelite imagery.

Cloud white voile, left, with apple green and peach, a shepherdess shirt, about £8 14s. 6d, matching skirt, about £10 8s. 6d to order.

Gentle beige smock, below, with crepe yoke, half sleeves above long voile cuffed sleeves; body beige, too, with olive and orange; 142 gns.

Flame red crepe dress, below, wrapped round and tied behind, with dragon fin sleeves, long and slender, a potent mixture of enchantment; 12 gns. Scarf by Celia Birtwell. High collar, £3 5s, from selection at London Docks, Munro Terrace.

Who knows her face better than a model?

1970s, beauty, celia birtwell, Hair and make-up, Make-up, maudie james, ossie clark, patrick hunt, Patrick Hunt, quorum, Vogue

And who better than Maudie James, demonstrating here, exactly how she shapes and colours her face:


1 Starting with shining clean skin (thanks to Pond’s Cold Cream), she dabs on Mary Quant’s Skin Drink and blends it in.


2 Max Factor’s Nouveau Beige Pan Stick goes on with a small damp sponge giving a smooth ‘finish, covering tiny blemishes.

3 Several coats of Boots No 7 Black Block Mascara intensifies but does not cake upper and lower lashes.

4 Blackened lashes are curved to sweep up and out with eyelash curlers (45p from Boots).

5 Each eyelash is separated to look natural.

6 Eyelids coloured with Caran d’Ache purple pencils (Nos 110 and 120) blended up to the brows.

7 Short feathery lines drawn with Caran d’Ache pencil (No 80) outline the cheekbones.

8 And are then blended in towards the nose to make a soft rose-pink blush.

9 Caran d’Ache pencil (No 80) outlines then fills the lips with colour.

10 Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream glossed over lips with a brush—for protection and shine.

11 Biba’s Mascara Brush neatens the eyebrows.

12 The look: face dusted with Boots No 7 Nearly Natural compact Powder; hair: shining with Wella’s Shampoo and Lemon Creme Rinse.

Photographed by Patrick Hunt.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1972.

Dress: brilliant silk chiffon by Ossie Clark for Quorum, print by Celia Birtwell, £45, from new Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, S.W.3; Just Looking, Knightsbridge, S.W.1; Hedgehog, 135 Fulham Road, S.W.7.

Made to measure by Edward Sexton for Esther De Deo

1970s, Edward Sexton, Esther DeDeo, menswear, Tommy Nutter, Vintage Adverts, Vogue
Made to measure by Edward Sexton for Esther De Deo at Nutters (Tommy Nutter). In oyster gabardine.
Shirt and stock, to measure, by H. W. Brettell.
Hair by Ann at Stafford & Frieda.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1977.

What’s black and white and summer all over?

1970s, Adrian Mann, bus stop, christopher mcdonnell, Conspiracy, George Malyard, Hans Metzen, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Leicester Shoes, Lizzie Carr, Malyard, marrian mcdonnell, Nigel Lofthouse, Peter Knapp, polly peck, stirling cooper, Sujon, terry de havilland, Titfers, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Left: Sizeable spot suit. Crossed small spots flared into bigger spots, bodice attached briefly to big spot baggy trousers. By Sybil Zelker at Polly Peck, £12.85, at Harrods; Edward Bates, Chatham. Black plastic chains from range of jewellery, white patent wedge sandals, here and right, £16.50, at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Near right: Cotton pique sun bodice, straps becoming sailor collar. By Stirling Cooper, £3.50, at Peter Robinson, London, Leeds, Norwich, Oxford. High-waisted cotton Oxford bags, £5.95, at Bus Stop. Plastic choker by Adrien Mann, £1.50, at Marshall & Snelgrove. Hats, this page, spotted muslin by Malyard, £16, at Marrian McDonnell. Opposite left: Spotty cotton halter, glazed striped cotton sailor trousers, by Christopher McDonnell, £4.25, £7.50 at Marrian McDonnell. Opposite centre: Batwing striped matelot, thin polybis knit, buttoned on one shoulder, by Hans Metzen, £4, at Harvey Nichols 21 Shop; June Daybell, Cheltenham; Ginger, Epping. Madly spotted belt with Perspex spot buckle, by Nigel Lofthouse, about £7, at Browns; James Drew. Voluminous stripe trousers, from a suit, by Sujon, £9, at Lord John, King’s Road; Butterfly, Hampstead; Pussycat, York. Scallop snake heels by Terry de Havilland, £14.99, at Leicester Shoes, Up West. Both straws, black with white crown, vice versa, £11, at Herbert Johnson. Opposite right: Cotton and Vincel knit halter all in a final bow. Checked cotton pedal pushers on shirred waist. By Lizzie Carr at Plain Clothes, about £3.95, £4.95, at Conspiracy from mid-May. Patent peeptoes, £19.50, at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Cotton drill halo, Titfers, £8, Liberty. All short white gloves, about 75p, by Kir. Hair by John at Leonard.

THE NEW SPOT CHECK ‘N STRIPE SHOW

Cottons crisp, cotton knit, hats as large as saucers, trousers wide, heels high, black and white giving positive power on a summer’s day.

Photographed by Peter Knapp.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.

Ossie’s Extravaganza

1970s, Clive Boursnell, ossie clark, quorum, Vogue
Night

There was dancing in the aisles when Ossie Clark showed his autumn ’74 collection at the Chelsea Theatre where “The Rocky Horror Show” is drawing the crowds. Pattie Harrison was one of the models. Marianne Faithfull made a finale appearance.

Photographed by Clive Boursnell.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1974.

Day
Night

Cosmic Collection

1970s, Clare Park, hair, Hair and make-up, james wedge, Make-up, Princess Leia, Star Wars, Vintage Adverts, Vogue, yardley

Yardley here, perfectly demonstrating the far reaching influence of Star Wars on the late Seventies with the not-so-subtle use of a Princess Leia-esque model.

Model is Clare Park.

Photographed by James Wedge.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1978.

Fulham Road Boutiques

1970s, Boston-151, british boutique movement, Carlos Arias, Early Bird, Gundrun Boston, hollywood clothes shop, Illustrations, Jacqui Smale, jean muir, Kaffe Fassett, laura ashley, Lillian Delevoryas, michael chow, missoni, Valerie Goad, Vintage Adverts, Vogue
Early Bird, 20 Park Walk, has long velvet dresses, ruched sleeves, frilly cuffs, or hooded. All washable, 15gns (£15.75).

The only Earlybird pieces I have encountered don’t really warrant such a sexy illustration, but it’s always nice to flesh out a lesser known boutique label when you can! The advert accompanies a feature on boutiques in the Fulham Road, with a lovely lengthy description of both Laura Ashley and Boston-151 amongst others.

You can begin on the outskirts of Brompton Village, just past Habitat, with the best of fashion, then move on for miles—literally—past spaghetti, spaghetti, hamburgers, junk and tortoises, the Chelsea Supporters’ Club and Fulham Broadway, until you arrive at Pollyanna’s excellent children’s clothes, 660; The East & West Superette, at 694, continental groceries; Fulham Surplus Stores, 686, bargains like army surplus arctic fleecy coat linings at £5.

Clothes you really want to own: Laura Ashley, 157, a big barn of remarkably low-priced things—Jacqui Smale’s demure print dresses, fine white tucked camisole petticoats, or nightdresses, shirts, print and plain velveteen and corduroy in colours of cloudy blue, dull purple, faded rose made into baggy knickerbockers, capes, shirts.

Boston-151, 151, is Gundrun Boston’s new beautiful clothes place, “filled with all the things I’d like to buy and never can find”. The functional chic workshop design is by Michael Chow. big lacquered tin central changing room, black mirror, clothes easy to look at and get at, a sewing lady sewing away instead of window dressing. Watch for: incredible hand-sewn clothes by Carlos Arias, his peasant print silk and cotton shirts, panne velvet ones too with tasselled ribbons, Mohammedan bloomers and boleros, soft dishcloth crochet dresses inset with Ibiza embroidery. These have clinging tops and flowing skirts and you tie yourself in (he practically never uses zips). There are Turkish mixed prints of marvellous cut, caftans made from rare Edwardian and Twenties fabrics. Kaffe Fassett’s macrame work, wool and string chokers and belts, old stones, ivory elephants threaded in,
hours of work. Boston & Kaffe’s subtle patterned knits, kimonos, sweaters, skirts; Chloe and Jean Muir. Lillian Delevoryas’ picture patchworked clothes. Linen shepherd smocks and jackets with velvet binding. Crochet cloche hats and ties where almost every stitch changes colour. Sexy seamless sweaters. Missoni knitted things from Milan, T-shirts, skirts and trousers so light you can wear several at once, and Kaffe Fassett evolves their colour schemes so you can imagine how lovely they are. Classic tailored trousers. Brown string butchers’ bags. Linen duffle bags stencilled with Boston-151 and made up in the workshops at Wormwood Scrubs. Valerie Goad, 185-7, has grown. She has 30 designs and more of best dresses, midi and long, shirts that match skirts and knickerbockers. There are Liberty wools, plain and print velvets and voile. Everything can be made to measure for a few guineas more, dresses, for instance, are from 19 gns (£19.95). Rene Aubrey, 122, 370 4745, hairdresser, has just opened a men’s salon next door. Early Bird, 20 Park Walk, has long velvet dresses, ruched sleeves, frilly cuffs, or hooded. All washable, 15 gns (£15.75).

Dean Rogers, 60, is a new man’s shop, with excellent-fitting trousers, velvets, tweed, cashmere, home-spun knitting, good belts and shirts. They open until 10.30 pm. Piero de Monzi, 70, is a double-fronted elegant shop with classic French and Italian clothes for men and women. Shirts from 5 gns (15.25) in delicate prints, exuberant Ken Scott prints, plain voiles, fine jerseys. Daniel Hechter suede and fleece greatcoats. Belts from 4 gns (£4.20), weighty affairs of hide and snake and brass. Suits, jackets, trousers, in bird’s eye tweed, velvet, gabardine, denim. Italian shoes, 16 gns (116.80). Next month an early spring fall of languid V de V clothes, moons, stars, wavy bands and boats knitted in. One partner, Alain Mertens, has opened the DM Gallery next door, 72, with Paolozzi, Hockney, multiple multiples, chic Italian design as in the perfect transistor. Imogens, 274, is ethnic: Palestinian embroidered wedding dresses, Kurtas, burnooses, shawls, belts, Israeli glass, Middle Eastern rugs and trinkets.

Afew months ago Kjeld Jacobsen opened Danish Silver Designs at 84. He’s a goldsmith turned business man, the jewellery shown comes from about 10 workshops in Den-mark and has a nordic coolness—strange pale stones, precise curves and spirals, 80 per cent in silver, a little gold. Special orders are dealt with by Jens Torp who can be seen at work through a window in the back of the showroom; this keeps the customers happy while they wait. Prices from £24100. Opposite the Queen’s Elm pub is that smart new block. There’s Alistair Colvin, 116, decorator and antique dealer, a drawing-room-sized shop, bizarre and interesting pieces. Zarach, 110. They’re the Sander Mirror Company, with elegant modern design grafted on. Downstairs there’s a new mirror showroom, looking glass in fifteen shades, antiqued, smoky, marbled, tortoiseshell, almost any effect -you could wish for, from £3 per square foot. Upstairs, with David Hicks black and white carpet, royal tartan blue walls, are beautifully designed things from Italy like Perspex ice buckets, boxes, clocks, spot lamps; status bibelots, work by Ciancimino, Billy McCarty, Tony Stubbin, Jon Bannen-berg, all Hicks carpets of course. Look out for the Italian gong chair. Rubber stretched on a round chrome frame and comfortable.

Travelling on to the heart of the Fulham Road, Charles Quinlan, 309, does upholstery work, recaning, polishing, loose covers and curtains. Tulleys, 289, have everything and endless windows of second-hand furniture, pale ranks of calico-covered sofas and chairs. Humpherson, 186, are the builders’ merchants who have a three-floor showhouse of bathrooms and kitchens. Solarbo, 230, make pelmets, curtain rails, cupboards, sliding doors, louvred doors (made to measure for no extra cost, and in do-it-yourself kits), a flexible shelf and drawer storage system with clear plastic or white wire baskets. Jonathan Minns, 1a Hollywood Road, a few feet off the Fulham Road, is a fascinating machinery shop, industrial and scientific antiquities, model ships, traction engines, locomotives like Birmingham Piddlers, extraordinary machines for extraordinary work like stitching army tents in Poona. All serious stuff and remarkably pleasing to look at. If Mr Minns isn’t driving traction engines at 6 mph through the countryside, or setting up museums with his new company Industrial Originals, he’ll be in the shop to explain it all. Hollywood [a.k.a The Hollywood Clothes Shop], 10 Hollywood Road, has ravishing thirties and forties clothes. From here down to Stamford Bridge are small nests of antique shops. Among the most interesting: Goldsworthy, 346, for a pair of gilded Siamese umbrellas. Stephen Long, 348, with painted bamboo, doll’s house furniture, tapestry bell pulls, bits of this and that, biscuit tins, patchwork quilts, books on bezique and cribbage, all the charming funny household paraphernalia of the past 150 years. Arthur Brown, 392-400, has everything. Perce Rye, 495, has Invincible Motor Policies.

And go back to Finchs, 190, for a drink, to find the village nucleus of excellent food shops and eating places. Hazel’s, 172, sell the finest fruits and vegetables. There are specialists in kebabs, ice-creams, pizzas, traditional English fare (as in Hungry Horse, 196). If you don’t wish to queue for hours outside The Great American Disaster, 325, for the greatest hamburgers and milkshakes this side of the Atlantic, then try the new Parsons Café Royal & Old Spaghetti Factory, 311: spaghetti, choice of six sauces, garlic, bread and salad for 9s (45p).

Text by Antonia Williams.

Scanned from Vogue, February 1971.

Lothars of St. Tropez

1970s, Escalade, Lothars of St. Tropez, mild sauce, Vintage Adverts, Vogue
If you can find these Lothars casuals anywhere else in London, we’ll buy them for you.

Hand-dyed shirts and pants by Lothars of St. Tropez. Shirt: £10.10.0. Pants: £9.10.0. Escalade, 187/191 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge.

Scanned from Vogue, February 1971.