If you haven’t a rag to your name, there is now Zandra Rhodes’ jersey, ripped, slashed and blue’stitched into her personal view of punk. She calls it “conceptual chic”. In style she thinks it is the first time the seventies have shown themselves. It is no holds barred style.
Mean streak of black jersey, this page, and another, opposite T-shirt shape under ragged tunic. All with blue cotton stitching, chains, ball bearings, safety pins, random diamante. All from Zandra Rhodes ; The Zandra Rhodes Shop at Harrods. Jersey by Racine. Very high heel gold sandals, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Hair by Fabian at Jean Louis David.
Photographed by Lothar Schmid.
Scanned from Vogue, September 1977.
Les femmes d écid ées vont jusqu’au bout… Jusqu’au Parfum.
Just a pretty flawless aesthetic which I felt needed to be noted.
Advert for Calèche by Hermès.
Scanned from Vogue, November 1971.
Here are the beginnings of a new silhouette and a new face, eyeliner, lipstick, not much mascara, a little rouge. Hair sleeked away somewhere. The hat: an uncompromising pillbox tipped over one eyebrow. Get used to it now, before anyone else.
Both hats by Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe, at Browns.
Veiling from John Lewis. Necklace, £6.75, Butler & Wilson.
Hair by Regis at Mods Hair, Paris.
Make-up by Moravetz.
Photographed by Guy Bourdin.
Scanned from Vogue, August 1972.
Black cire draped pillbox on Manuella Papatakis, daughter of Anouk Aimee.
Maxine Smith in the bedroom, where the four-poster is set on a mirrored podium. Her satin nightdress and jacket by Zandra Rhodes. Hair by Celine at Leonard.
DRESSED BY ZANDRA RHODES STAGED BY MAXINE SMITH
Maxine and Gary Smith moved to London from New York in 1971. Since then, Gary Smith, American television producer and winner of several Emmy Awards, has been working with Sir Lew Grade on television spectaculars, and Maxine Smith has been planning their London flat with Zandra Rhodes. The combination of their ideas has worked perfectly, with one taking over where the other left off. Initially, Zandra Rhodes designed a series of fabrics. Maxine Smith then had them printed to her own colour pattern by Alex McIntyre, often using the same colourway and design on different fabrics so that texture changes have been subtly worked from cotton to felt to satin. Some sur-faces are flat, others gathered – as in the hall where felt blends with draped cotton. Throughout there is an instantaneous impact of colour, wit and comfort. As one becomes accustomed to the colours, one realises that the sitting-room is designed for midnight rather than midday, the windows permanently shuttered and the curtains drawn. One notices the enormous portrait of Lenny Bruce by Gary Smith, ‘twenties’ armchairs with covered feet found by Maxine Smith in Antique City, the Vogue needlepoint cushions all worked by her mother. In the bedroom, apricot satin and taffetas with a felt print ceiling and apricot-coloured cupboards, the bed set on a mirrored podium, and covered with cushions. Other points of colour are the red telephone, the amber carpet. Next, a completely cupboarded dressing-room. Then, the apricot bathroom. Downstairs, past a neon sign—”I love Max”—and other such illuminations, to the dining-room: originally a cellar, now a brilliant blue small tent. The kitchen has dark rust-coloured prints, the ceiling hung with a thousand cooking utensils and an enormous electric lamp bulb found at Selfridges. Just off the kitchen a bar, a platform bat on steps, with three-tier cushions as bar stools, and an embroidery of Whistler’s mother by Malcolm Poynter, which came from the DM Gallery, Fulham Road. London’s galleries and off-beat furniture shops have produced many other pieces of art and amusement, some of them transformed by Zandra Rhodes’ coverings, others untouched, all with a special blend of humour and art.
Photographed by Henry Clarke.
Scanned from Vogue, late April 1975.
The downstairs bar with Malcolm Poynter’s embroidery of Whistler’s mother in the background, cushions instead of bar stools.
Two views of the sitting-room, Maxine Smith wearing a Zandra Rhodes’ dress of the same print as the walls—”The dress came first, the walls followed.” All fabrics by Zandra Rhodes, from the range at Christopher Vane Percy, 5 Weighhouse St, W.1
The garden room leading off the bar.
The hall draped with cotton print.
The blue tent dining-room with candlesticks by Carole McNicholl
Photographed by Sarah Moon.
Scanned from Vogue, Late April 1974.
Switch on to spots and stripes. Flocked on to real leather by The Chelsea Cobbler.
I think this was one of my first ever scans, a very long time ago. It still makes my heart sing when I see it, so I thought it was worthy of a rescan/repost.
Photographed by Tessa Traeger.
Scanned from Vogue, August 1972.
Goya’s new fragrance sings of hayfields and hedgerows and clover and honeysuckle. It’s green but warmed by the sunshine – and the products contain the natural elements found in the waters of the famous French spas. Dress and hat from Browns, South Molton St, W.1.
Photographed by Patrick Hunt.
Scanned from Vogue, August 1971.
Left: White cotton edged with red, lots of frills tied up with bandanna bows. By Rosie Bradford, about £15, at Quorum; Che Guevara. Fine white straw, £10, Herbert Johnson. White ribbed gloves, Kir, 75p. Red and white striped canvas shoes laced onto a high wooden platform, £12.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Right: Three deep cotton frills and a halter bodice edged and tied in red. By Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey, £9.95. Small white straw, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Peppermint earrings and clips by Adrien Mann, about £1, at Marshall & Snelgrove. White block and string shoes, £7.75, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Helanca gloves, Kir, 75p. Hat pins, from a selection at The Purple Shop.
more of it, less of it, what there is of it, frilled.
Preview of new white shapes you’ll be seeing when the sun’s hot: all cut out, cropped or split, beginning with flamenco frills piped in with red.
Well, it may not be May any more but this editorial feels perfect for the current weather. And those Manolo Blahnik for Zapata shoes? Pass the smelling salts…
Hair by John at Leonard.
Photographed at the Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens
Photographed by Peter Knapp.
Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.
Left: Small cotton broderie anglaise blouse under the shelter of a big frilled collar, with a thin gabardine skirt split front and back. Blouse, Stirling Cooper, £4.25, at Peter Robinson. Skirt, Screaming Mimi, £6.50, exclusively for Granny Takes a Trip. White Openwork Helanca gloves, Kir, 80p, at Dickins & Jones. White shoes, £7, Bilbo. Hat, £10, Herbert Johnson. Right: Buttoned padded halter bodice, edged and buttoned in scarlet. White pleated Colonial cotton shorts, buckled each side. Bodice by Rosie Bradford, about £7, at Quorum ; Che Guevara. Shorts, £5.95, Bus Stop. White patent shoes, £16.50, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. White straw, £11.50, Herbert Johnson. Hat pins from range, The Purple Shop.
Wide wide cotton trousers gathered on elastic, a gathered cotton halter top, the edge let go to frill. By Pablo & Delia, £18, at Browns. White peep-toe shoes, £7, detachable bow £1 extra, at Bilbo. Hat, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Earrings, Adrien Mann. Laced cuffed Helanca gloves by Kir, 75p, at Derry & Toms
Ingrid Boulting on the cover and inside cover of Beauty in Vogue.
Make-up, chosen from the Princess Marcella Borghese range, by Barbara Daly.
Hair by John at Leonard.
Hot pink bikini from a selection by Von Furstenberg at Liberty.
Photographed by Eric Boman.
Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Spring/Summer 1975.
Long and frilly flower print cotton frocks, all at Wallis main branches. Peachy, below left, a puff-sleeved shirt with deep skirt frill. £12.95. Pink, green, red, white chintzy parasol with sapling handle, £15.50, Crocker-Wilson. Straw with bright ribbon and flowers, Edward Mann, £3.40, at Barkers. Flower and bird glass necklace, £3.50, Bombacha. Flowered cream papier-mache bangles, £7 each, at Emeline. Peachy, below right, with wide sleeves and sash. £13.95. Green/white leafy parasol, £34.50, at Crocker-Wilson; Elle. Wide lacy straw with flowers, by Buckle Under, £11, at Lucienne Phillips ; Smiths, Bath. Cotton and lace drawstring bag, £4.50, at Rosie Nice. Bunches of sweet peas, by Novelty Import Co. Inky blue and brown frock, opposite left, extra beige and scarlet flowers, ecru lace and sweetheart neckline, £15.95. Red/white/green striped parasol, £19.50, Crocker-Wilson. Light blue glass beads, 80p, at Rosie Nice. Rough straw with chocolate velvet, creamy flowers, by Sarah Frearson, £13.75, Lucienne Phillips. Provençal cotton drawstring bag, £3.75, from Brother Sun. Sky blue, brown, natural frock, below centre, in two—camisole lacy top and skirt £15.95. Sandy lacy shawl, £8, at Scott Adie. Opaque amber glass fruit beads, about £28, from Emeline. Plum, blue, orange cotton, right, with lots of lace. £18.95. Sky blue lace shawl, as above. Flowered black chintz and tasselled parasol, £25.50, Crocker-Wilson. Enamel pansy brooch, on silver chain, £6.50, at The Purple Shop. Liberty print Country Cotton drawstring bag, by Brigid Martineau, £7.25, at Harrods. Canvas espadrilles, both pages, £3.50, from The Chelsea Cobbler.
Photographed by Barry Lategan.
Scanned from Vogue, May 1974.
Green, cream and red Liberty printed Tana Lawn halter dress, left, a salad of flowers shirred to the hips. with tiny frills. About £32, at Annacat: Harvey Nichols. Pink, white and blue glass beads, bangle, ring, from Rosie Nice. Cream and green cotton dress, right, trellised and bordered with flowers, flounced and bordered with lace. By Earlybird, about £14.95, from Earlybird; Fenwick. Glass flower necklace, £12, The Purple Shop. Blue bird’s nest earrings, £1.50, Bombacha. White nylon openwork gloves, by Kir, about 95p, John Lewis. Flowers by Novelty Import Co. Deep green and red night-flowering smock, right, each tier with creamy lace. Liberty Country Cotton, by Sujon, £23, Liberty; Parkers of Hampstead; SuperStar; Leeds. Matching green flowered hand-bag with wrist strap, by Brigid Martineau, £7.75, at Harrods. Green/red bird sparkling necklace, Bombacha, £3.50. Espadrilles, £3.50, The Chelsea Cobbler. Hair by Christopher at Vidal Sassoon. Sanderson Wallpaper. Smilax leaves from Pulbrook & Gould. Bird-cage from Casa Pupo. Budgerigars from A1 Studio, 164 Princes Gdns, W.3.
Pale blue, ivory, light terracotta Liberty print Tana Lawn and lace flouncing skirt, above left. Cap-sleeved top. By Sujon, £24, Liberty; SuperStar, Leeds. Long frilled white petticoat, £4.75, at all Laura Ashley branches. Lacy straw, with harebells, by Buckle Under, £10, at Lucienne Phillips;’ Smiths, Bath. Glass beads and flower necklace round wrist, £3.50. Bombacha. Embroidered white espadrilles, £7.99, Russell & Bromley main branches. Black and bright red flowered white jacket; frilled skirt,: above right, piped in black and white. By Jeff Banks, £14.50, £13.50, at Selfridges; Adele Davis. Petticoat, as above. Straw hat, £14, at Diane Logan. Blue bead bracelet, 80p, Rosie Nice. Espadrilles, as above. Blue, scarlet, cream Liberty print Tana Lawn flowered shirred top and skirt, opposite left. About £13, £19.95, at Annacat; Harvey Nichols ; Unicorn, Birmingham. Ribboned straw, Edward Mann, £2.50, at John Lewis. Flowered cream papier mache bangles, £7 each, Emeline. Lacy shawl, £8, from Scott Adie, Flower necklace, £2.50, at Bombacha. Cream chocolate laced boots, £13.95, Anello & Davide. Powder blue, green, pink cotton pleated skirt and cap-sleeved crossover top, cenre. By Jap, £25.95, £16.95, at Jap & Joseph. Espadrilles, £3.50, The Chelsea Cobbler. Lacy shawl, as above. Straw hat, Buckle Under, £11, at Lucienne Phillips. Powder blue, cream, beige tiered pleated skirt, right: Liberty print Tana Lawn with creamy lace and matching button-down bodice. About £23, £14, by Juliet Dunn, at ZigZag; Adele Davis; Smiths, Bath. Green straw with flowers, £14, at Diane Logan and Hampstead Bazaar. Cream laced espadrilles, £6.50, front Rayne at Harvey Nichols. Mother-of-pearl leaf necklace, about £15, Emeline. Hair by Christopher at Vidal Sassoon. Fishing gear, front Harrods. Picnic hampers and raffia bags, all from Habitat. Liberty print Dick Whittington bags and care shopping basket, all from Liberty. Stripy parasol, £19.50, from Crocker-Wilson.
Rose crepe de chine dress, far left, flowered brightly red and white. With V neck, slightly gathered sleeve. Jeff Banks, about £21, at Jeff Banks Shop ; Puella, Croydon, Purley and Reigate. Pale straw bowler with flower-painted brim, Diane Logan, £8. White beads with red and white flowers, Rosie Nice, from a selection, from 60p. Gold locket engraved with flying bird, Goldmine at Woolworths. Rose and cream flowered Liberty cotton and leather purse, Chris Trill, £13, at Flight Studio ; Jap & Joseph. White nylon gloves, by Cornelia James. Sunglasses, Elle. Eau de nil crepe de chine dress, centre, stippled with beige and white flowers. Jeff Banks, about 823.95, Jeff Banks Shop ; Puella, Croydon, Purley and Reigate. Blonde straw with a bunch of harebells, Buckle Under, £10 at Lucienne Phillips ; Smiths, Bath. Mother-of-pearl leaf necklace, about £15, at Emeline. Flowered glass brooch, £1.50, at Bombacha. Eau de nil leather purse with quilted flower sides. £30, to order from Clive Shilton. Eau de nil and grey silky cotton gloves with violet/blue embroidered cuffs, £5 Browns. Clear flower-patterned Perspex sunglasses, £25.95, Elle, Bond St and Sloane Square. Snake bangle, £2.50, Mulberry Co at Selfridges. Gold bangle, £16.75, Andre Bogaert. Gold rings, from £5.50, at Ken Lane. Sepia flowered crepe de chine dress to mid-calf, left. Sujon, £15, at Liberty ; Image, Bath ; Super-star, Leeds. Flat straw with cream petersham, £7.50, Charles Batten. Mother-of-pearl hat pin, £1, Diane Logan. Pale cream, yellow fake orchids, Crocker-Wilson, £1.65 a pair. Seed pearls, Corocraft, from range at Peter Robinson. Raffia purse, Chris Trill, .E7.70, at Flight Studios ; Jap & Joseph. Speckled cream net gloves, by Katherine Hamnett for Tuttabankem, £3, Browns. Ivory, gold and diamond, pale amber rings, £4, £25, £4, Andre Bogaert.