Back to the Drawing Board

1970s, Antonio, Bellini, bill gibb, countdown, Frances Vaughan, Illustrations, Kaffe Fassett, Lady Fingers, Vogue
Man’s smoke-grey kimono knitted in oriental patterns, rivers and islands fading up sleeves and hem, black to charcoal, ginger to peach. Stripe sash. 30 gns. Child’s plum red tunic in diamond design, purple and pale blue all over, violet and khaki, rose pink and blue on the edge. 5 gns. Woman’s long black kimono with a sky of blue and ginger stars, giant satellites of black, dark brown, plum red and violet circling. Black and grey stripe sash. 30 gns. All by Kaffe Fassett at Beatrice Bellini, 11 West Halkin St.

Fashion constantly starts afresh and now it has travelled far back into the imagination, retuned to the basics of craft and design. Grass roots is the mood for this summer and the look is handwoven, hand painted, handknitted, handstitched. Here is how appliqué was recreated and a shepherd’s smock came in from the fields. How lace came to be painted with butterflies and sewn onto tartan, how knitting grew into something remarkably new.

Illustrations by Antonio

Scanned from Vogue, July 1970.

Peach and green tartan tweed. all set about and frilled with cotton lace tie dyed in the same summer pastels. A long and willowy suit with a long and willowy knife-pleated skirt. By Bill Gibb at Baccarat.
Long peach and golden tie dyed smock of lace, one beautiful big butterfly handpainted on the yoke. And a dress of natural linen billowing yard upon yard. threads drawn out by hand, panels of lace sewn in. All by Bill Gibb at Baccarat. Cotton lace tied and dyed by Valerie Irving. Apron and cap crocheted in string by Kaffe Fassett.
Natural linen shepherd’s smock and trousers. No boyangs but all traditional stuff with thick embroidery, smocking stitch, lazy daisies and paisleys almost everywhere. By Lady Fingers, 50 gns, to order, Countdown
Long grassy gingham dress and a long white cotton apron, pretty as a picture, sewn with birds and hedgerows, greens, pinks, deep dark blues. About 12 gns, 7 gns, to order, Frances Vaughan, 3 Munroe Terrace, S.W.10.

Jeanz Meanz

1970s, Boston-151, caroline arber, Electric Fittings, Emmerton and Lambert, Inspirational Images, Jigsaw, Kansai Yamamoto, Landlubber, margit brandt, mary quant, mr freedom, South Sea Bubble, The Westerner, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, Wild Mustang Co.
Properly faded blue jeans at Emmerton and Lambert. Bright red braces at Mr Freedom. T-shirt by Kansai Yamamoto at Boston-151. Cowboy boots at The Westerner.

Jeanz Meanz summertime, anytime, new blues, faded blues, long legs, a look that’s sexy, tough, goes with workshirt or Saint Laurent blazer, a bright old idea that began with the Gold Rush and just keeps on looking great…

Photographed by Caroline Arber.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

Blue jeans and cotton battle shirt by Jigsaw. Blue cotton singlet, Boston-151. Brown suede boots by Mary Quant.
Mid blue cotton jeans by South Sea Bubble. Stripe vest, Margit Brandt for Scorpio. / Thick brushed denim jeans from Wild Mustang at Take Six. Tartan shirt by Electric Fittings.
Denim blue jeans by Landlubber. Plaid shirt by Electric Fittings. Leather boots from Mr Freedom.

Leslie Caron by Barry Lategan

1970s, barry lategan, Inspirational Images, Leslie Caron, pablo and delia, Vogue

Leslie Caron looking fantastic in a dress of aquamarine chiffon by Pablo & Delia, to order at Browns. For her hair, here by John at Leonard, she eats thirty yeast tablets a day; as skinfood, she uses the contents of Vitamin E capsules. She wears Robert Piguet Fracas, mostly Estee Lauder and Lancome make-up. And she’s just finished filming Leon Uris’s “QB VII”.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1973.

Perfection and Delia

1970s, guy bourdin, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, pablo and delia, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Pablo and Delicious — heightened Ophelia eyes and lips, veils of colours • • • The Face by Gala: Honey Beige Barely There foundation with Swiss Candy Cream Blusher and Honey Beige Sheer Finish Compressed Powder. Eyes, new Pebble Grey Eye Pen and Matte Shadow, with Brownish Black Liquilash Mascara. New Riviera Red Supersmooth Lip Pen for a sharp edge. Peach silk chiffon dress, see again overleaf; sparkled palest peach organza mantilla girdled with embroidered silk lace : Pura, to order, at Fortnum & Mason.

Perfection and Delia — silks for clowns and angels … Something rare in a classic world — droll, beautiful follies by Pablo & Delia, who never make anything that bores them, and dress all the clowns and angels in London. Madly beautiful new year silks and the faces you’ll wear with them.

Pablo and Delia and Guy Bourdin – the most heavenly of combinations.

Hair by Valentin at Jacques Dessanges. Make-up by Heidi Morawetz.

Photographed by Guy Bourdin.

Scanned from Vogue, 1st April 1974.

Peach silk chiffon, right, overlapping like petals to the floor, two trains looping up to fingers, flowers of organza and tinsel, with lime veil leaves ; organza/lace mantilla : Pura, to order, at Fortnum & Mason.
Lipstick red frills, silk georgette, this page, with gold sequinned rose, red silk organza mantilla with blossoms : Maya, to order at Browns ; The Shop, 44 Sloane St. Golden shoes, £29, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Sizes, colours, see Stockists. The face : vivid, ethereal, a little fevered and flushed, eyes shining out of darkness. By Boots No 7 : Nearly Natural Skin Tone foundation with Cherry Stroke -A-Blush blusher, Nearly Natural Translucent Loose Powder ; Hazy Navy Shadow Mist powder eye shadow, Pink King Size Make-Up Pencil around eyes, Black Superlash mascara, Soft Brown Brow Shaper : Ruby Wine Lip Polish
Pablo and Delia – just dream dressing in silk follies . . Snow silk georgette, this page, sheathed around body, with sash of golden cord; breeze-blue organza mantilla, golden-edged flame flowers scattered by a zephyr : Narcissus, to order at Browns ; The Shop, 14. Sloane St. Snakeskin shoes, about £30, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Tigerlily red silk georgette, this page, embroidered with silvery medallions, tier on tier stitched round in white : Gala, to order at Browns ; The Shop, 44 Sloane St. Gold snakeskin high heeled sandals, about £30 Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

Go East! Collect Flowers of Japanese Couture

1970s, Hanae Mori, Hiroko, Inspirational Images, lord snowdon, snowdon, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

In Japan, land of the blossoming couture, Hanae Mori is a favourite daughter. Her clothes mix European classic design with oriental tradition, the Madame Butterfly fabrics are her on creation, she veils them layer on layer.

Her first boutique opened in 1947, the present score is twenty-five, and seventeen factories, hundreds of delightfully dressed ladies east and west —actresses, embassy wives, even crown princesses.

Since 1962 she has sold in New York. And now, in Harrods’ International Row, a unique few will arrive twice ayear to join Antonellis, Lanvins, Givenchys and others in their global collection.

Flowering in Hanae Mori silks here, tiny Hiroko, ex-Cardin favourite model, beautiful from the top of her black pageboy bob to the soles, of size two-and-a-half geta. Above: Crocus and chrysanthemum sunset chiffon over satin, mandarin coat and slit dress of matching print.

Below: Huge white and rose daisies on inky chiffon over a printed silk slip. Long scarf From £250 each,in a range at Harrods. Pearls by Mikimoto. Hiroko’ s Gala make-up: Orange Dazzle over Poppy Dazzle Super-smooth lipstick, Flame Darle nail polish

Photographed by Snowdon.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1972.

Daisy suede and other shorts

1970s, Beged'Or, Boston-151, chopper, Feathers, Inspirational Images, mr freedom, rowley and oram, Sue Baloo, terry de havilland, tuttabankem, Vogue, Zwarts
Rusty suede scalloped and sewn with ink painted daisies. Excellent small cap-shouldered jerkin of the same. By Tuttabankem at Boston-151. Suede by Gomshall Tanneries. Lurid lurex striped t-shirt by Mr Freedom. Feathered butterfly at Zwarts. / Maroon suede jeans shorts on bib and strap by Beged-Or at Debenham & Freebody. Neon panne velvet t-shirt, ice cream cone pin and tights at Mr Freedom. Zany felt patchwork hats at Feathers. Two-tone suede shoes at Rowley & Oram.

Blue skies, fresh air, freewheeling and summer suede shorts. This way.

Unusually for Vogue, this spread doesn’t credit a photographer. It also credits those amazing shoes to Rowley and Oram, who stocked Terry de Havilland’s shoes, so I suspect that they are by him as well.

Scanned from Vogue, April 15th 1971.

Piero de Monzi

1970s, Boutiques, british boutique movement, Cerruti, Chloe, Piero de Monzi, Vintage Adverts, Vogue
Clothes by Chloe and Cerruti at Piero de Monzi. Painting by Robert Cottingham from the DM Gallery. Furniture and Fendi luggage at Condotti.

Advert for the Piero de Monzi boutique in Fulham Road.

Scanned from Vogue, April 15th 1975.

Softly Draping

1970s, bill gibb, Gina Fratini, Inspirational Images, lingerie, loungewear, norman parkinson, Vogue
Softly draping nighwear, dressed up for the boudoir. Cream Quiana jersey nightgown with lace halter and edges, the bib embroidered with coffee ‘leaves’. By Bill Gibb.

Originally published in Vogue, 1973.

Photographed by Norman Parkinson.

Scanned from Lingerie in Vogue, 1981.

Frill on frill of chiffon make a soft, dressy nightgown in forget-me-not blue and palest cream. By Gina Fratini.

Face Value

1970s, Adrian Mann, beauty, eric boman, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Richard Sharah, Sun and Sand, Vogue
T-shirt by Sun and Sand. Cotton square, flower bunch by Novelty Import Co. at John Lewis.

This is what eyebrows used to look like, kids!

Hair by John at Leonard. Make-up by Richard Sharah.

Photographed by Eric Boman.

Scanned from Vogue, April 15th 1975.

T-shirt by Sun and Sand. Pink spotted ribbon, blue wrist-tied cotton square from John Lewis. Buttercup yellow bangle from Adrien Mann.

Victoria Tennant (and Afghan)

1960s, british boutique movement, Kenneth Vard, patrick lichfield, Victoria Tennant, Vogue

Victoria Tennant, an Afghan hound and a jacket of real patent leather, caramel brown and shiny. She is a drama student at the Central School. The jacket, 39 gns, was made with wide lapels and a belt, by a new boutique, Kenneth Vard, 90 Marylebone High Street, W.1, who makes anything in any colour and any suede or leather.

Photographed by Patrick Lichfield.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1969.