Toeing the Line

1970s, Dolcis, Elliott, Illustrations, leslie chapman, lilley and skinner, mr freedom, petticoat magazine, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, shoes
Painted peep-toe court shoes, Mr Freedom, W8., £10.75, Quant spotty tights, £1; Russell & Bromley suede bar shoes with peep toe, £12.95. Quant dotty tights, £1. Lilley and Skinner leather and suede lace-ups, £4.99, Quant foot-patterned tights, 95p.; Sacha suede shoes to strap calf-high, £4.99. Mr Freedom tights, 52½p.; Russell & Bromley suede wedge shoes with buckle, £5.25. Mr Freedom tights, 52½p.; Suede sandal all the way up to the knee. Russell & Bromley, £10.45.

Sinuous straps, wedgy heels and an all-time comeback for soft summer suede in any number of wide-eye summer shades. Shoes that daren’t be just practical — not now there’s so much happening in the clothes line above! With the sort of prices shown here, any girl can take out enough insurance to make sure her footwear not only keeps pace with the rest of her wardrobe, but even makes it that much more special as well!

Illustrations by Leslie Chapman.

Scanned from Petticoat, 20th March 1971.

Saxone suede four-bar shoes with clumpie heels, £5.50. Mr Freedom tights, 52½p.; Dolcis suede lace-up-leg shoes, £2.99. Mr Freedom tights, 52½p.; Suede wedge-heeled bar shoes, Lilley and Skinner, £5.50 plus Quant sheer stockings with butterfly emblem, 99p.; Russell & Bromley suede wedge-heeled shoes, lacing above the knee, £11.95. Mr Freedom tights, 52½p.; Suede and leather laced shoes Dolcis, £4.99 with Quant ankle-patterned tights, 95p.; Elliotts suede wedge-heeled ankle-laced shoes, £12.95. Mr Freedom tights, 52p.

Today’s Paper

1970s, 1980s, alice pollock, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, Over 21, post modernism, roger stowell
She wears: Vivien Knowland’s paper ‘coolie’ hat, a fan necklace to make as well, and a stripey strapless knitted top by Alice Pollock and Catherine Blair, £20 at 16 Russell Street, London WC2. Paper fan, comes with wooden stand, £5.94 from Ehrman, 123 Fulham Road, London SW3.

Light, bright, plain or pleated, it’s the new way to put colour back into your home and fun into furnishing.

Photographed by Roger Stowell.

Scanned from Over 21 Magazine, April 1979.

Lothars of St. Tropez

1970s, Escalade, Lothars of St. Tropez, mild sauce, Vintage Adverts, Vogue
If you can find these Lothars casuals anywhere else in London, we’ll buy them for you.

Hand-dyed shirts and pants by Lothars of St. Tropez. Shirt: £10.10.0. Pants: £9.10.0. Escalade, 187/191 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge.

Scanned from Vogue, February 1971.

A Legacy of Lace

1970s, art deco, Deco Inspired, Inspirational Images, janet reger, Linda Dagenais, meriel mccooey, Meriel McCooey, Sarah Moon, sunday times magazine, Vintage Editorials
Long beige slip in lace and crepe, £19.50; soft-lined crepe bra, £5.40.

It is not often that they auction old knickers at Christies, but earlier this year the celebrated wardrobe of Heather Firbank went under the hammer, and an integral part of the collection was her exquisite underwear. Heather Firbank, sister of the novelist Ronald Firbank, was famous for her unique, occasionally eccentric clothes, and though most of them now belong to the Victoria and Albert Museum, the highest bid for the underclothes came from the lingerie manufacturer Janet Reger and her husband Peter. They made copies of the pieces they bought, and tomorrow they will be on sale from Bottom Drawer, 33 Southwick Street, London W.2, and by mail order. They are expensive, certainly, but unfortunately the luxury of Twenties underwear no longer comes at Twenties prices. All accessories are from Maria Cavallos shop Dignetts, at Antiquarius, King’s Road, London S.W.3.

Model is Linda Dagenais.

Words and styling by Meriel McCooey.

Photographed by Sarah Moon.

Scanned from Sunday Times Magazine, November 17th 1974.

Oyster satin cami-slip, £25.00.
Black lace slip, £19-50; black lace camisole top, £28.50
Original cami-knickers from Heather Firbank collection (also shown on cover). The seam-for-seam copy costs £19-50.

Unseamly tights

1970s, Barbara Miller, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, pretty polly, Random Ossies in Adverts, Vintage Adverts

Another in my irregular series of random Ossie Clark sightings in adverts. This time a wrap around Cuddly dress, made from a crinkle pleated crepe with satin trim.

I think the model is Barbara Miller.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, March 1975.

All the pinks

1970s, Browns, Emeline, francois lamy, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, sonia rykiel
Wide-sleeved jersey coat in pale rose pink; panelled skirt in same jersey, worn slightly longer than the coat ; same colour round-necked sweater; all by Sonia Rykiel; £111, £43 and £34, Browns. Narrow maroon leather belt ; about £6.50. Browns. Wide varnished wicker bangles ; £6 each, Emeline.

Showing your colours: Sonia Rykiel for France goes for all the pinks.

Photographed by Francois Lamy.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, February 1975.

Aubergine cardigan with lilac band on collar and cuffs ; long lilac sweater with aubergine band at the waist ; wide culottes in aubergine jersey; about £76, £35 and £43; all by Sonia Rykiel; Browns, 27 South Molton St, W1. Ivory and jet octangular bracelets ; £25 each; Emeline, 45 Beauchamp Place, SW3.

Kaffe Fassett’s Peony and Mosaic Bedroom

1970s, horrockses, interior design, interiors, James Mortimer, Kaffe Fassett, sanderson, Vogue

Starting with the pale pink of peonies for the walls, Kaffe Fassett built a room of mosaic and flower patterns. Inside the arch: a bed with Gazebo sheets from the new Horrockses’ Wamsutta range. Oriental carpets from Franses of Piccadilly. Strips of mosaic pattern from Sanderson wallpapers. Paintings, needlework cushion by Kaffe Fassett. The shower cubicle, Tahiti by Leisure, a surprise in a bedroom, but it fits. Horrockses’ towels. Porcelain pots, shells and shell boxes, cane and lacquer furniture. Patchwork quilts.

Photographed by James Mortimer.

Scanned from Vogue, February 1975.

Aloha

1970s, Adrian Mann, clive arrowsmith, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Max Factor, pat cleveland, Vogue, yves saint laurent

Gauguin got the message and in every island from Tonga to Tahiti, from Fiji to the Ile des Pins to Hawaii, his pictures come to life with beautiful girls in vivid sarongs, necks encircled with leis . . Here, Gil of Max Factor brings South Sea sun and warmth to the January ’72 face with Moisturized Nouveau Beige Whipped Creme Make-up, Honey Translucent Powder and Pinki Cake Rouge. Adds brilliance of hibiscus flowers to lips with Sunset Rose Lipstick and California Transparent Lip Gloss … and to the eyes with Clear Red Creme Rouge, lots of Transparent Lip Gloss, Grey Automatic Eye Pencil and Black Mascara Wand. Hair by John at Leonard, printed chiffon shawl by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche; earrings by Adrien Mann. Flowers by Pulbrook & Gould.

Model is Pat Cleveland.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, January 1972.

Just A Little Something I Ran Up Myself…

1970s, Ace, bill gibb, Clio Goldsmith, cosmopolitan, Gamba, Inspirational Images, Jane Cattlin, liberty, liberty's, manolo blahnik, Midas, Peter Golding, Russell & Bromley, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, Terence Donovan, Vintage Editorials, Wendy Dagworthy, Yuki, yvonne gold, zandra rhodes, zapata
DESIGNED BY YUKI . . . and typical of the elegant raciness that Yuki breathes into everything he creates, a sultry bloomer dress to wear if you dare and if you’ve got the shape. Make it from a 1.5 metre square of cotton jersey. Simply cut two holes for your legs in the centre, step inside and tie the corners on your shoulders. Fake lily, Novelty Imports. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.

. . . with the aid of Yuki, Sheilagh Brown, Wendy Dagworthy, Sheridan Barnett, Bill Gibb, Jane Cattlin, Zandra Rhodes and Peter Golding, eight top designers who were each persuaded to whip up a creation for when you still haven’t got a thing to wear.

Hair by Harambee, 19 Avery Row, London W1.

Make-up by Yvonne Gold.

Persian carpets from Liberty.

I think one of the models is Clio Goldsmith.

Photographed by Terence Donovan.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, January 1978.

DESIGNED BY SHEILAGH BROWN … who goes the whole way with glamour, whipping silk and lace and ribbons into deliciously pretty confections. Here she transforms a 2.25 metre length of soft lace into beautiful balloon trousers gathered twice on ribbon drawstrings. A square of silk crepe de Chine, slashed in the middle for a sliding neckline, ties at the front with wide black satin ribbon. Silver sandals, £24.95, Midas.
DESIGNED BY WENDY DAGWORTHY … the designer who makes sporty Viyella and rough tweeds look soft. Sunray-pleated cotton—hunt for the ready-pleated kind—is cut to make a piecrust collar that’s prettily tied with trailing velvet ribbon, on a poncho top belted like a tunic over a matching skirt. The skirt is one width of fabric gathered on a cord at the waist. Fringe the edges of toning check fabric to make the shawl. Boots, £44.99, Russell & Bromley.
DESIGNED BY SHERIDAN BARNETT who knows how to put together the luxury of velvet and lace in the new romantic style. Sheridan Barnett’s big cosy chasuble is made by folding in half a 2.5 metre length of velvet and cutting a straight line in the centre for the neckline. Tuck under the sides and wrap. closed at the waist with glossy black moire. Knot a fichu of black lace at your throat. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Patent ballet pumps, £11.50, Gamba.
DESIGNED BY BILL GIBB . . . who creates like no other designer. Here’s a little numero (main picture) from Bill’s sketch-pad that’s four straight pieces of jersey and need be only as expensive as the fabric you choose. Cut four 120 X 90cm oblongs of fabric—Bill picked soft ice-cream shades in Qiana jersey. Overlock the edges and run a ribbon drawstring through one short end of each piece. Two oblongs gathered up and tied on each shoulder make the back and front of the dress. The remaining two pieces, gathered in tightly to wrists and draped over your shoulders, make a floaty jacket that can be knotted back and front. Soft gold leather straps are Bill Gibb’s newest accessory. Gold sandals, £24.95, Midas.
DESIGNED BY JANE CATTLIN Sew one short seam in an oval of silky jersey and you’ll have added a glamorous Jane Cattlin creation to your wardrobe. Jane makes it sound as simple as that, though the result looks like the ritziest evening gown in town. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
DESIGNED BY ZANDRA RHODES .. and called Conceptual Chic by Zandra. For her New Wave look, drop a sliver of shocking pink jersey on top of a plain black T-shirt dress. First cut several jagged slashes in a 105 x 114cm oblong jersey, making two of the cuts big enough for armholes. Overlock the edges and decorate with spangles and safety pins, preferably jewelled. Tie bright satin rouleaux around your neck. Stitch pearl or diamante beads on to plain safety pins or buy one of Zandra’s rolls of pins ready-jewelled from her shop at 14a Grafton Street, London W1. At £10, they’re the punk status symbol! Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
DESIGNED BY PETER GOLDING … whose rhinestone-studded jeans, spangled T-shirts and satin waistcoats glint and gleam in his shop, Ace. If you’re star-struck but can’t afford the glittering trappings or spare the time to stitch sequins on your jeans here’s Peter Golding’s tip. Hang your Christms-tree decorations on to ponchos of sheer black lace, add a few stick-on silvery stars and moons, fasten your Lurex sotckings with silver suspenders, shake your feathers and enjoy yourself! The mirrored belt is made by pasting handbag-size mirrors on to any plain belt. Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Lurex stockings, Mary Quant, £1.60.

New Suede Shoes

1970s, alkasura, british boutique movement, hans feurer, Inspirational Images, king's road, let it rock, Malcolm McLaren, manolo blahnik, pat cleveland, Screaming Lord Sutch, stirling cooper, sunday times magazine, Valerie Wade, vivienne westwood, zapata
Satin dresses, £8 from Let It Rock, 430 King’s Road, London SW3. Suede shoes with crepe heels, £17.75 (with green dress) and £17.50 (with black dress), both by Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, London SW3. Screaming Lord Sutch dresses by Let It Rock: 12in.-bottomed jean drains, £2.50; Lurex shirt, £3.95; waistcoat, £3.95. Full skirt and off-the-shoulder blouse (right), £8 and £5 from Alkasura, King’s Road, London SW3. Fifties stilettos and wide belt, £2 and £2.40; silver heart locket, £4.10.

If fashion revivals keep accelerating at the current rate, last year’s hot-pants are going to be a cult by the end of the decade. Who would have dreamed that a Fifties teenager’s wardrobe would be back in fashion by his late twenties? In 1958 Teddy Boys were practically extinct now crowds of Teds and Rockers cram the Fishmongers Arms at Wood Green to hear rock groups like Screaming Lord Sutch and the Houseshakers (above). There are now an estimated 20,000 revivalist Teddy Boys in England, and the drainpipe-trouser trade is booming. These pictures show some of the clothes that you’ve only just managed to forget.

A new and influential shop in the King’s Road is run by an original Ted called Malcolm McLaren. Walking into Let It Rock is like walking into a flashback from the Fifties. James Dean and Elvis posters line the walls; period showcases are filled with hair-cream, plastic combs and sweetheart lockets; the juke-box belts out some of the best rock ever recorded, and the clothes on sale would be a credit to Gene Vincent, Presley, Eddie Cochran or anyone else who made the recordings. Boxes of 45s and old fan magazines litter the floor next to genuine valve radios with a three-month guarantee.

Designers like Stirling Cooper and Mr Freedom have been manufacturing Fifties-inspired clothes for some time, but Let It Rock is the only shop selling the real thing. This particular revival is so premature that there is still a large amount of the original stock around; dirndl skirts, stiletto-heeled winkle-pickers, cotton sweaters and plastic jewellery, not to mention 12in. drainpipe trousers and jeans, bootlace ties, luminous socks and blue suede shoes. This is the only place where Teds can buy off-the-peg ‘drapes’ — their mid-thigh Edwardian velvet-trimmed jackets. The phenomenon of Let It Rock is that it is situated in the heart of Chelsea, which Teds regard as ‘enemy territory’; now they’re selling to the newly converted ‘natives’.

The clothes in Let It Rock are inspired by two groups, the Teddy Boys (and girls) and Rockers (and birds). According to McLaren, Teds like the updated rock styles, whereas the Rockers, especially the girls, prefer ‘strong’ ideas like the characteristic shaggy mohair sweater-dresses and winklepicker boots. ‘Chelsea people’ go more for the authentic stuff . . . if you endorse a revival, you might as well get the real thing Fashion can thank the Fifties for some of the most unglamorous and unflattering clothes we ever knew. That is what makes their unmodified rebirth so difficult to understand.

I’m not sure I can say much more about Vivienne Westwood’s body of work which hasn’t already been said. I always think the best quality in a designer is idiosyncrasy, and Westwood had that by the truckload. Her work didn’t stagnate, but it often referenced her own past and continued to translate the wider cultural past into her own language – and yet never tried to be anybody else. Given my magazine collection covers mainly the Sixties and Seventies, I thought it best to celebrate her by doing what I do best, which is trying to go back and show you the starting point for the things we just take for granted decades later. The origins of what she’s best known for are ultimately in the Teddy Boy revival of the early Seventies and her work for ‘Let It Rock’ with Malcolm McLaren, and this captures that early spark – despite the fact that they don’t mention her at all.

I’ve also been meaning to scan this for a while so, now seemed like a good time. I mean, Pat Cleveland and Screaming Lord Sutch photographed by Hans Feurer? What more could you ask for?

Report by Valerie Wade.

Photographed by Hans Feurer.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, May 14th 1972.

Top left : short fringed dress, £7, from Let It Rock. Bottom left: short mohair dress, £12. Black winklepicker boots, £12. Centre top: V-necked cotton sweater in Fifties fabric, £2; genuine pearlised belt, £2.50; all from Let It Rock. Above: black jean drains, £2.50, and luminous socks, 30p; both from Let It Rock. Off-the-shoulder sweater, £3.95, Stirling Cooper Shop, Peter Robinson, Oxford Street, Vl. Tartan shoes, £16.50, Zapata, 49 Old Clurch Street, SW3. Right: crepe skirt, £6, Let. It Rock. Scarf, 35p, at Woolworth’s