What pinafores did next

1970s, anello and davide, Angela at London Town, duc, Gina Fratini, Ginger Group, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, kensington market, kurt geiger, Marielle, mary quant, miss selfridge, Moya Bowler, Titfers, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Cotton print pinafore over a sweet flowered dress. Deep ruffles on shoulders and a big beautiful bonnet to match. By Titfers at Miss Selfridge. Red button shoes at Anello & Davide.

Long dresses and skirts in crepe and cotton prints – related to others just as small, fresh, sharp or soft, on pinafore smocks and aprons. These are not so much to keep you clean, more to make you look prettier; and you can be dairy maids, kitchen maids, Kate Greenaway girls all through summer.

And so began the kickback against all things clean, crisp and space age…

Photographed by Duc.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1971.

Fine floppy fluted crepe de chine dress by Marielle. Liberty lawn pinafore by Angela at London Town. Brown boots by Moya Bowler for Edouard Jerrold at Kurt Geiger.
Dairy cream cotton smock dress. Leg o’mutton sleeves, buttons up the back, print of wild pale roses and primrose ribbons. Gauzy white pinafore, lace and rose pink ribbons. Both by Gina Fratini. Shoes at Anello & Davide. Lacy pink silk bonnet at Sharon’s Shoppe, Kensington Market.
Cotton and rayon wrap, two sizes of polka dot, white on cherry red patches. By Mary Quant Ginger Group. Cherry and red stripe cotton apron by In Pressler. Natural straw hat at Herbert Johnson.

On Second Thoughts

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara hulanicki, biba, Inspirational Images, Sarah Moon, Vintage Editorials

For those dreamy moments when you feel you want to look feminine and pretty, when you want to get out of your casual clothes and wear something floaty and special, Biba have made lovely, plain satin and two-tone patchwork satin skirts and tops which are alluring and very glamorous for the summer. They have also designed long, floating cotton voile dresses in large, dark prints which are flattering to figures still suffering from seasonal over-eating.

All clothes from Biba.

Many thanks to Barbara Hulanicki for letting me know that she took these stunning photos (modelled by Eva from Biba). They were uncredited in the magazine.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1970.

Yankee Swank

1970s, biba, Bombacha, Charles Batten, Crocodile, Diane Logan, Fenwick, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, liberty, liberty's, Monet, monty coles, quorum, radley, Spectrum, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, Wardrobe
Giant pink lily printed cotton dress with swirling flared skirt from Biba

City life heats up when the sidewalks are crowded and the cabs full. Give yourself a break and see the sights. Step out in cotton dresses for a cool look at a hot town.

Photographed by Monty Coles.

Scanned from Honey, August 1975.

Open necked short sleeved printed crepe de chine dress by Radley from Quorum. Fringe scarf from Wardrobe. Hat by Charles Batten.
Mint green cotton dress by Strawberry Studio from Che Guevara. Scarf from Fenwick.
Cream cotton dress with drawstring waist by Monet. Scarf from Liberty. Hat by Charles Batten.
Navy and mauve cotton poplin dress by Monet.
Beige and mulberry flower printed crepe de chine dress by Sujon. Scarf from Fenwick.
Slash neck cotton cheesecloth dress from Crocodile. Scarf from Liberty.
Rust cotton open necked baggy dress from Bombacha. Cloche by Diane Logan.
Pale pink and white leaf printed dress from Biba. Scarf from Liberty. Hat by Charles Batten.
Navy and rust checked and striped crepe de chine dress with matching scarf from Spectrum.

Heads you win

1970s, alkasura, Andreas George, Bermona, Feathers, hans feurer, hats, Inspirational Images, Jean Charles Brosseau, jean shrimpton, liberty, liberty's, mr freedom, quorum, ritva, sunday times magazine, Vintage Editorials
One of a selection of hats designed by Andreas George that are decorated with anything from fake flowers, ribbons, plastic fruit to tiny furry animals. £7 from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3

Suddenly this summer the shops are selling masses of hats that before would have only been dug up for garden parties, weddings, sports days or camping it up. For years magazines and designers have shown their clothes with hats, but they don’t usually turn up in the street. Fashion editors often feature ‘picture hats’ like those on the previous page posed in some romantic setting or framing an immaculate new make-up, but one never actually sees them on a number 19 bus. Now hats have gone the way of all clothes; there are no rules; you can wear anything with anything. Any hat, whether it’s wide-brimmed and floppy with half a haberdashery department stuck over it, or a small crocheted cloche pinned with a bunch of plastic fruit, i fine with either nostalgic Forties’ dresses or a dirty old pair of jeans. And you can still wear it to a wedding if you want to.

Modelled by Jean Shrimpton.

Photographed by Hans Feurer.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, June 20th 1971.

Smooth straw hat with fake anemones, by Bermona, £2.85 from Dickins and Jones.
Cotton cloche pinned back with a bunch of cherries if you like, £4.50 from Quorum. Check and spot crepe shirt £4.20 from Mr Freedom, 20 Kensington Church Street. White cotton shorts by Ritva £7.88 from Countdown, 137 King’s Road.
Pink felt hat with bright harlequin pattern under the brim by Jean Charles Brosseau, £7 from Feathers, 43 Kensington High Street.
Plain wide-brimmed panama hat, £2.85 from Liberty’s.

The Shortest Summer

1970s, Copper Coin, Crochetta, Elliott, harold ingram, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, mary quant, Maudie Moon, mr freedom, ravel, Richard Selby, Russell & Bromley, Sharcleod, simon massey, stirling cooper, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials

After the explosion of hot pants and vulgar satin knickers, shorts are still with us, but they’ve emerged neater and brighter – put together with layered vests and skimpy sweaters, legs that go on forever and bright vampy shoes or clogs. It’s the only way to be cool this summer.

Photographed by Richard Selby.

Scanned from Honey, June 1971

Far left: T-shirt by Maudie Moon. Clingy crepe shorts by Simon Massey. Thigh high socks by Mr Freedom. Left: Banlon bomber jacket and plain fluted shorts by Jeff Banks. Tights by Quant. Right: Banlon vest, shorts and shirt all by John Marks. Tights by Quant. Shoes by Ravel. Far right: Banlon vest with plain black shorts by John Marks. Banlon shirt by Jeff Banks. Tights by Quant. Shoes by Elliotts.
Far left: Striped cotton knit sweater and plain shorts by Zeekit by Crochetta. Stripy socks by Echo. Lavender suede shoes by Dolcis. Left: Halter neck knit sweater and shorts by Zeekit by Crochetta. Socks by Quant. Clogs by Russell & Bromley. Right: Stripy ribbed vest by Shar-Cleod. Scarlet jersey shorts by Stirling Cooper. Socks by Sunarama. Snakeskin wedge shoes by Terry de Havilland. Far right: Skinny sweater and matching mini vest by Syndica. Linen shorts by Friends. Socks by Quant. Red clogs by Wardle and Williams.
Left to right: Striped skinny rib sweater by Janine at Harold Ingram. Yellow shorts by Copper Coin. Vest and red pepper shorts with green patch pockets both by Peter London. Rainbow acrylic vest by Peter London. Yellow jersey shorts by Stirling Cooper. Woollen football vest by Van der Fransen. Cherry red shirt by Littlewoods. Red Orlon shorts by Syndica.

Pretty Pieces

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, Bombacha, Elizabeth Huxley, Inspirational Images, Susan Backhouse, swimwear, Vintage Editorials
Turquoise and yellow net bikini by Susan Backhouse. Bone and shell necklaces from Bombacha. Fish earring by Nicholas Adams.

I told you there was a lot of swimwear in this issue, didn’t I? I’m amazed by these Susan Backhouse pieces. I’ve only ever had one piece by her which is an incredible, voluminous cotton skirt in the style of Vivienne Westwood, so I’m boggling at these skimpy, pop-art inspired swimsuits and bikinis.

Photographed by Elizabeth Huxley. Hair and make-up by Colin Booker.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1979.

Blue one-piece with shell applique by Susan Backhouse. Bone necklace from Bombacha.
Pale blue and pink shell shaped bikini by Susan Backhouse. Fish earring by Nicholas Adams. Bone necklaces from Bombacha.
Yellow costume with star fish applique by Susan Backhouse. Bone and shell necklaces from Bombacha.
Turquoise bikini with star fish motif by Susan Backhouse. Blue earrings by Adrien Mann. Necklace by Nicholas Adams.

Chiconomy

19 magazine, 1970s, Ace, coopers, Inspirational Images, Ivory, Joseph, Ku Khanh, Russell & Bromley, Swanky Modes, Vintage Editorials
Blouse by Sue Barnes for Coopers. Shorts by British Home Stores. Black sandals by Ravel. Glasses by Primetta.

For the budget-conscious with imagination, high fashion is well within reach and, as you can see, many of these crisp, colourful cottons are from surplus and chain stores and even supermarkets. Take a look at Tesco where we picked up an amazing cotton top for only £3.99! We also dressed up the one-time overall by belting the waist, adding masses of jewellery and finishing off with high, strappy shoes.

To prove how good these outfits can look, we shot the photos in Rodeo Drive, a snob area in Beverly Hills. So never turn your nose up at a bargain.

Photographed by Ku Khanh. Hair and make-up by Colin Booker.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1979

Overall from Laurence Corner. Mules by Russell & Bromley. Earrings from Swanky Modes. Belt by Trimfit. Brooch on belt from Swanky Modes.
Navy blouse by Tesco. White pleated skirt by Pret-a-Porter. Blue sandals by Ivory. Glasses from Bombacha. Earrings and necklace from Ace. Pearl bracelet from Joseph. Belt by Trimfit. Brooch by Nicholas Adams.
Lilac overall from Laurence Corner. Lilac strappy sandals by Ivory. Glasses by Primetta. Earrings and necklace from Ace. Satin belt by Trimfit.

Alice Through Our Looking Glass

19 magazine, 1970s, alice pollock, caroline arber, Duggie Fields, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, quorum, radley, Vintage Editorials

Alice Pollock is a dreamy sort of girl – incredibly thin with large, sullen eyes and wispy hair. Emancipated yet feminine she is the other half of the Quorum design team. She and Ossie Clark design beautiful clothes for their shop in the King’s Road and also produce a special budget range for Radley which is sold all over the country.

She lives in an enormous flat with her three children, a cat and a canary. At the moment she is in the throes of redecoration. One room she has already painted bright green – it is sparsely furnished with simple, modern furniture and some good paintings on the walls. The shelves are crammed with objects she has picked up in junk shops – glass cylinders filled with dried flowers, Art Nouveau statues and books.

Her bedroom is extremely large and feminine, with an old, junky dressing table covered with flowers. Tulips, freesias and azaleas are her favourites at the moment. Her vast wardrobe is crammed full of clothes – mainly her own designs and a few old clothes she has found in junk shops.

During the day Alice wears no make-up at all, and for the evening she makes up only her lips and eyes from a Leichner paintbox. Currently she is wearing a silvery green on her lips and a dark red on her eyes – which somehow looks all right. She washes her hair every day in a herb shampoo and never sets it – just shakes her head as it is drying and separates the ends with her fingers.

Her evenings she usually spends with friends, going out to dinner or occasionally to pop concerts, but the weekends she spends with her children.

Her spring collection has a very romantic, feminine feeling, the fabrics are the softest – chiffons, silks and occasionally cotton jersey – and the colours are palest blues, lemons, pinks and greys. She has maintained a long look for both day and evening, but in a few styles the length has crept up to just below the knee.

All clothes are by Alice Pollock.

Photographed by Caroline Arber.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1970.

If All The World Were Summer

1970s, Amir Scorpio, biba, Buckle Under, crowthers, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Jonvelle, Just Jane, medusa, stirling cooper, Sujon, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Far left: White cotton sailor shirt from Medusa. Tomato and white gingham dirndl by Just Jane. Panama hat by Buckle Under. Near left: Grass green and white gingham shirt over full green and red gingham skirt by Stirling Cooper. Straw hat from Crowthers. Men’s cream shirts throughout by Jeff Banks.

…Then dressing’s a picnic. All these nice new laundered clothes and country girls from Colette stories out in the green fields under blue Provençal skies, with wine and fruit and flowers.

Photographed by Jonvelle.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971

Creamy cheesecloth smock and skirt by Amir Scorpio. Hat by Buckle Under.
Smock of field plains, flower or spot prints, ruched and loose over bias skirt of buttercup crepe de chine at Universal Witness. Black straw hat from a range at Van der Fransen.
Near right: Flowering crepe de chine blouse by Sujon. Fully gathered emerald cotton skirt by Just Jane. Straw hat from Buckle Under. Far right: Black and red and brilliant Liberty mixtures gathered in frills and flounces by Foale and Tuffin. Flower and suede belts by Buckle Under.
Sky cotton blouse with red buttons, red stitching and long blue skirt by Sujon. Blue suede belt by Buckle Under. Black hat from Van der Fransen.
Cotton lawn smock in primary patches by Foale and Tuffin. Panama by Buckle Under. Clogs from Biba.

Left Bank Flowers

1970s, Bugat, Inspirational Images, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
All clothes by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche

Here the Saints go dancing by – bright frills, dotty prints, dancing lengths. Can this be strict Saint Laurent? The only black is a belt, a pair of wedge sandals; all the rest are new summer cottons, crepes, voiles, poppied like so many hay fields, spotted with colour, put with brilliant legs and purple espadrilles.

I don’t know about you, but I’m feeling like this is my default fashion mood for Spring/Summer 2019. Must hunt down red tights…

Photographed by Bugat.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1971

All clothes by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
All clothes by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
All clothes by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche