Autumn Midicine

1970s, Adrian Mann, Alan Rodin, anello and davide, Angela at London Town, autumn, biba, charlotte martin, clobber, elisabeth novick, georgina linhart, gladrags, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Jolly Boy, Louis Feraud, Pourelle, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, simon massey, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials
LEFT: Zig-zag Dralaen midi shirt dress, 8 gns., with a charcoal grey ribbed waistcoat. 4 gns., both by Georgina Linhart; pale grey leather boots, Sacha, 9 gns. RIGHT: Swirly skirted printed Dicel crepe dress with tightly laced wide wet-look belt, Simon Massey, £12 5s.; tightly laced suede boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns.

This is definitely the Season of the Midi, which involves a whole new set of fashion rules. Midis look best without an inch of leg showing, which means either long tight-fitting boots to take over where the midi finishes, or coloured tights matching clumpy-heeled shoes. So keep gulping; daily doses will keep you in the pink, fashion wise.

Aside from all the dreamy autumnal clothes and the fact that the blonde model is Charlotte Martin, it’s so lovely to see Terry de Havilland’s early and legendary three-tier wedges. As so often with Terry’s shoes, they are erroneously credited to the stockists (here ‘Jolly Boy’), but it’s still lovely to see them.

Photographed by Elisabeth Novick.

Scanned from Honey, August 1970.

LEFT: Giant sunflower•printed drawstring Acrylic knitted midi dress, Clobber, 7 gns.; silver clover-leaf buckled belt, Fifth Avenue. 77s. 6d.; lavender tights Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; snakeskin wedge-heel shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns. RIGHT: Wavy banded pink printed wool midi dress, Simon Jeffrey, 8 gns.; dusty pink tights, Twiggy, 7s.; two-tone wedge-heel snakeskin shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns.
LEFT: Tubular rollneck diamond jacquard midi dress, Clobber, 7 gns.; circular suede and leather thonged belt. Adrien Mann, 84s.; pale pink tights, Twiggy, 7s.; co-respondent snakeskin shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns. RIGHT: Slender zipped-up jacquard wool-mixture midi dress, Gladrags, £9; olive green printed chiffon scarf, Sara Jane, 59s.; pear-shaped leather linked belt, Ian Mankin, 80s.; plum tights, Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; two-tone snakeskin sandals, Jolly Boy, 9 gns.
LEFT: Petrol blue and yellow side-split jacquard jersey midi dress, Angela at London Town, 10 gns.; knee-high navy canvas boots, Biba, £7 105.; dusty blue tights, Mary Quaff, 9s. 11d.; black leather belt with oval gilt eyelets, Strides, 84s. RIGHT: Bottle green micro-speckled jacquard jersey zipped-through midi dress, Gladrags, 10 gns.; Neapolitan printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 63s.; black canvas boots. Biba, £7 10s.
Kaleidoscopic fluted Dicel crepe midi dress, Simon Massey, £11; purple tights, Twiggy, 7s.; leg-hugging lace-up suede boots Anello and Davide, 16 gns.
Random rose-printed Shetland cowl-neck midi dress. Georgina Linhart, 13 gns.; waist-cinching silver buckled belt, Fifth Avenue, 77s. 6d.
LEFT: Terracotta and create button-through Courtelle neospun jacquard coat dress (with matching trousers not shown), Alan Rodin, 15 gns.; sheer smokey brown tights, Berkshire, 9s.; swirly rust and cream printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 63s. RIGHT: Maroon and beige jacquard jersey midi dress with plain jersey skirt, Angela at London Town, 11i gns.; sheer black coffee tights, Wolford, 13s.; pearlised brown strappy shoes, Mary Quant, 75s.
LEFT: Toffee and grey striped wool midi vest dress, Kadix, £7 10s.; tan’ wood and leather thonged belt, Adrien Mann, 90s.; burnt orange tights, Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; tightly laced rust suede boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns. RIGHT: Chevron printed Cossack dress in black, brown and grey Courtelle jacquard knit, Georgina Linhart, 13 gns.; beige leg-hugging boots, from a selection at Russell and Bromley.
LEFT: Leather tasselled bitter chocolate angora wool jersey shirt dress, Miss Feraud, £13 10s.; brown and pink geometric printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 635.; rust suede lace-up boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns. RIGHT: Clingy plum and cream honeycomb-printed wool jersey vest dress, Pourelle, 10 gns.; triangular suede linked belt, Adrien Mann, 65s.; tight-fitting beige boots, from a selection at Russell and Bromley.

Drink to me only in pink champagne

1970s, guy bourdin, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Marcel Fenez, Vogue
Now look for evening, mood glamorous, and the colour to watch is rose. Make-up by Heidi Morawetz with Max Factor Truly Fair Whipped Creme Make-up and Natural Rose Face Powder (blended down the neck for an even skin tone); Frosted Dusky Rose Brush-On Blusher on eyelids (with Pink Pearl Shadow Creme along inner corners) and down the cheekbones; Brownish-Black Comb-On Mascara and the dazzle of new Poppy Frost Whipped Creme Lipstick. Hair curled and waved by Guillaume of Mod’s Hair, Paris. Cigar brown dress, in Hurel jersey, Roland Klein at Marcel Fenez, about £42, from Harrods; sizes, colours, other shops, see Stockists. Champagne: Moet et Chandon Dry Imperial Rose, Vintage 1966.

Photographed by Guy Bourdin.

Scanned from Vogue, September 15th 1973.

Down-Town

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, Ann Reeves, Antiquarius, biba, Bombacha, Dolcis, Essences, Essenses, Gamba, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, Mary Graeme, miss mouse, rae spencer cullen, stirling cooper, strawberry studio, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Circular skirt, printed with leopard skin and roses, and matching sun top, from Miss Mouse, £18.95. Gold dancing shoes, from Gamba, £13. African necklaces, from a selection by Peter Adler, from £10. Bangles from a selection at Chimera from £2.50. Scarf, worn as a sun top, from a selection at Essences, from £2. Cotton leopard-skin printed shorts, by Miss Mouse, £5.95. Embossed leather stiletto shoes, with wooden heels, from a selection at Smith and Simpson, from £5. Drop earrings, from a selection at Chimera, from £1.50.

19 AND airJamaica GO DOWN -TOWN

Down-town Mo Bay is a riot of colour. Houses are made of wood and painted red, blue, green or yellow. There’s a different colour at every step, so a walk down any street is quite an experience. Then there’s the soul music which blasts out of every shop, so you’ve got to look cool. Hence our choice of fun clothes to catch the eye even with all that competition.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1974.

Green satin halter top, with red tulip print, £5.95. Matching gored skirt, £6.95. Both from Biba. Pink stiletto shoes, from a selection at Smith and Simpson, from £5. Green shawl, from Bombacha, £5.20. Bag from Biba, £1-95. Multi-coloured glass necklace, green glass necklace and green glass bracelet from a selection at Chimera. Brown and gold halter neck, with rust tulips, £5.95. Matching skirt, £6.95. Both from Biba. Gold dancing shoes, from Gamba, £13. Shawl from Bombacha, £5.20. Bag from Biba, £1.95. Long necklace and rust necklace from a selection by Adrien Mann. Blue glass necklace, from a selection at Chimera, from £2.50.
Palm-tree-print sun top, with matching skirt, from Strawberry Studio, £11.75. Wooden stiletto shoes, from a selection at Smith and Simpson at Antiquarius, from £5. Blue earrings, blue and cream necklace and gold bracelet, all from a selection at Chimera at Antiquarius. White sunglasses, from Bombacha, £.1.50. One-shoulder dress, in green crêpe with yellow floral print, from a selection at Van Der Fransen, £16. Straw wedge shoes, with painted flowers, from Dolcis, £5.99. Blue paisley-print scarf, from a selection at Essences, from £3. Green and yellow bangles, from a selection at Chimera at Antiquarius, from £3 each. Sunglasses from Bombacha, £2. Pink palm-tree-print sun top, with matching skirt, from Strawberry Studio. £13.75. Pink stiletto shoes.from a selection at Smith and Simpson at Antiquarius. from £5. Pink necklace, multi-coloured necklace, pink and clear bangles and pearl bracelet, all from a selection at Chimera at Antiquarius. Sunglasses from Bombacha. £2.
Yellow jungle print shirt, with cotton sleeves and collar in floral and seaside print, £5. Floral shorts, with patch pockets, £4-50. Both from a selection at Van Der Fransen. Gold strappy sandals, from Gamba, £2-54. Blue and white straw belt, from Biba, £4-70. Blue earrings from a selection at Chimera, from £1.50. Jungle print shirt, with crêpe de Chine floral print sleeves, £5. Matching crêpe de Chine shorts, with cotton pockets, £4-50. Both from a selection at Van Der Fransen. Gold flat dancing shoes, from Gamba, £2-54. Embroidered blue and red belt from a selection at Peaches at Antiquarius. Yellow, pink and green bangles, from Chimera, from £2.25.
White, red and black printed bra top, with matching skirt, with two pockets, by Strawberry Studio, £14. Leather shoes, with wooden stiletto heels, from a selection at Smith and Simpson, from £5. Multi-coloured glass necklace and blue plastic bangle, from a selection at Chimera. Sack bag, with cockerel printed on front, from Domidiom, 61p.
Button-through, seaside print shirt, by Miss Mouse, £7.95. Green, pink and blue button-through skirt, with side pockets, from Lily, £9.50. Green and black art deco belt, from a selection at Peaches at Antiquarius, from £6. Blue earrings and bracelet from a selection at Chimera. Seaside print shirt, by Miss Mouse, £7.95. Multi-coloured floral skirt, from Lily, £9.50. Scarf, in pocket, from a selection at Essences, from £2. Belt from a selection at Peaches at Antiquarius, from £6. Multi-coloured necklace and pink and blue floral bangles from a selection at Chimera.
Old Brighton sea-front print halter top, with matching skirt, by Ann Reeves, £13. Black snake-skin shoes, by Mary Graeme, £9.95. Scarf from a selection from Essences, from £2. Sack bag, with cockerel printed on front, from Domidiom, 61p. Earrings, multi-coloured glass necklace and bangles, from a selection at Chimera. Yellow floral cotton shirt, £6.95. Matching floral skirt, in blue, £8.95. Both from Stirling Cooper. Red snake-skin shoes, by Mary Graeme, £9.95. Sack bag, from Domidiom, 61p. Multi-coloured necklace, and clear perspex bangle, with flowers inset, from a selection by Adrien Mann. Small flower brooch, from a selection at Chimera, from £1.50.

Something long and cool

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, erica budd, Essences, Essenses, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, jean junction, medusa, Michael Berkofsky, Uschi Obermaier, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Green cotton jersey t-shirt from Jean Junction. Floral print skirt from a selection at Van Der Fransen. Scarf around head from a selection at Biba.

You’re on holiday. It’s evening. You feel like dressing up, but staying casual. Something that’ll take you just anywhere. These skirts are ideal. Right for the beach. Perfect for a rendezvous.

(One of the models I believe is Uschi Obermaier.)

Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1973.

Silk head scarves from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Both tops and long skirt made with different fabrics, from Van Der Fransen.
Silk scarf from a selection at Essences. White lacy top by Erica Budd. Long cotton skirt by Janice Wainwright.
Silk scarf from a selection at Essences. Yellow t-shirt trimmed with plastic ring from Biba. Cotton floral skirt by Medusa. All jewellery from local markets in Kenya.
Black printed scarf from a selection at Essences. Black bra top by Erica Budd. Black cotton skirt with embroidered floral by Janice Wainwright.

Patterns of Persian Living

1970s, Ann Turkel, Henry Clarke, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, Michael Szell, thea porter, Vogue
Michael Szell in the bedroom of his London flat. The rolls of fabric, his new collection of Persian prints for Thea Porter. The dress, simply one length from the range worn like a caftan.

Michael Szell is the Hungarian fabric designer who is introducing Iran to London via a new collection of designs, taken up by Thea Porter for her romantic and ravishing evening dresses. His own bedroom, opposite, is in rich emerald, turquoise and brown arabesqued linen, cool and grand by day but rich and warm by electric light, with 18th-century Eng-lish paintings and mirrors. His drawing-room, below, is turquoise with brilliant Persian prayer mats colouring the walls, 18th-century English botanical china, and a mixed forest of hyacinth and growing orchids, later bluebells and orchids. Iran runs through Michael Szell’s life like a thread. He began to visit friends and connections there while he was still a child, used every possible holiday to get there while he studied economics at Aberystwyth University, and later when he worked with Sir Nicholas Sekers. His love for Persian ceramics, buildings and woven carpets developed into a passion for early Islamic art in its formal, random, asymmetric period before it came to represent life in the 19th-century : a passion culminating in his opening his own furnishing fabric showrooms at 47 Sloane Avenue. He began selling silk signature scarves to Henri Bendel of New York in 1969 and has just produced his new Persian collection of fabrics. Thea Porter asked him to print his designs onto silk chiffon for her and made them in flowing evening dresses with yards of floating sleeve and skirt.

For the coronation of the Shahanshah and the Empress of Iran, Michael Szell designed curtains, chair-fabrics and an entire state banquet for the Golestan Palace. He has been asked again to help with the decorations for the great October celebrations—the twenty-fifth centenary of the founding of the Persian Empire. He will contribute designs for the interiors of houses and for some of the 500 tents that are planned, with their own marble bathrooms, for the royal and distinguished guests who will take part in the celebrations at Persepolis, the ruined city and ancient capital.

Mr Szell has also been asked to provide the fabrics for all the palace sets in the new Universal film Mary, Queen of Scots, starring Vanessa Redgrave as Mary and Glenda Jackson as Elizabeth. He has an unrealised ambition to produce an absolutely modern collection of very cheap fabrics “from chair covers to plastic shower curtains”.

Model is Ann Turkel.

Photographed by Henry Clarke.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

Midnight blue Persian curlicues on azure silk chiffon. Sleeves dipping to the ground and gathered at the wrists, the bodice fitted, skirt soft and gathered. £78, at Thea Porter, 8 Greek St. Persian necklaces, both pages, from Michael Szell’s own collection.

Mixed Spice

1970s, Browns, Chelsea Antiques Market, Emmerton and Lambert, Inspirational Images, Mohanjeet, Sacha, sunday times magazine, Valerie Wade, Vintage Editorials

There is nothing formal about these clothes even though a few years ago most people would have thought they were. They look exotic because the fabrics are either Eastern, or mixtures of Twenties silks and chiffons. Everything is quite simply cut and easy to wear; it is only the fabric combinations that are elaborate. There are many women who don’t like to admit, even to themselves, that clothes are of any importance in their lives — just because they are not striding around in shorts doesn’t mean that they lack style, they just don’t want to be instantly pigeon-holed by what they wear. The clothes shown here are perfect for all those women who “don’t care about fashion”.

Report by Valerie Wade.

Photographed by Sasha.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, April 4th 1971.

New dress from old fabrics; the bloomers are Thirties patchwork silks, the bodice is Indian and the sleeves Persian. Obviously no two are identical. From Emmerton and Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market, 253 Kings Road, SW3, £25.
Indian quilted chiffon skirt and bolero (£32) over gold painted chiffon blouse (also on cover), £10. All by Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, W1.
Skirt and blouse made from Twenties and Thirties silk chiffons. Skirt £15, blouse £10. From Emmerton and Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market, 253 Kings Road, SW3.
Reversible Indian wrap-around skirt and jacket in soft quilted lawn, £45. By Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, London, W1.
Multi-patterned dress in thick Indian cotton, £28. By Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, W1

Fancy That!

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, boy london, Daily Blue, David Anthony, Inspirational Images, Retro, Rossella Goldschmied, Scruffs, strawberry studio, Vintage Editorials
Pink and white spotted elasticated top, £2.45 by Scruffs. Pink tiered skirt, £11.50, by Foxy. Glasses from a selection at Retro, from £3. Jewellery from Adrien Mann.

Take some bright reds, greens, yellows, pinks and blues – and blend them with spots and stripes, ribbons and frills. Add bangles, bead ribbons and flowers and finish off with sexy, high heeled shoes. You’ll be the star attraction… We chose some Italian designs from our favourite Italian company, Daily Blue. These are pricey but highly original, so that even if you can’t afford them you can profit from the idea.

Photographed by David Anthony.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, June 1977.

Dress by Rossella Goldschmied for Daily Blue, £70.
Off the shoulder top, £38, and matching skirt, £60, both by Rossella Goldschmied for Daily Blue.
Pink top, £50, tiered apron skirt, £47, and matching shorts £17.50, all by Rossella Goldschmied for Daily Blue.
Cheesecloth dress by Taramina.
Red and white spotted top, £10.99, and matching skirt, £9.99, by Strawberry Studio. Glasses, £2, from Boy / Spotted top by Scruffs, £4.75. Cheesecloth skirt by Strawberry Studio, £7.99. Glasses from Boy.

Get Away

1960s, Gershon, Inspirational Images, Otto Lucas, Simon Ellis, vanity fair

For a Sunday by the river . . . just looking your prettiest. Snowy-white dress in broderie Anglais with a wide, square neckline, puff sleeves -a very demure air about it. By Simon Ellis, 72gns. Wide-brimmed hat in fine white straw by Otto Lucas, 88s. White organza parasol, to order from Harrods, 6 2 gns. White tights by Mary Quant, 18s : 11d. Paisley cushions and old-fashioned quilt from Cornucopia. More prettiness how-to : Almay’s range of hypo-allergenic make-up, specially formulated for difficult skins that usually don’t like any make-up at all. Soft Ivory Liquid Make-up, matching powder. Eye Shadow Aqua, Charcoal Brown Mascara; Pink Pecan Colour Moist Lipstick, And, a summertime scent, Mademoiselle Ricci by Nina Ricci.

Photographed by Gershon

Scanned from Vanity Fair, July 1968.

Well Dressed

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, Antiquarius, biba, Chelsea Antiques Market, Essenses, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, Michael Berkofsky, Ronald Keith, Sacha, Spectrum, stirling cooper, susan marsh, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Cream Trevira cotton dress by Gillian Richard. Black patent shoes from Sacha. Silk scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Papier mache bangles by Fabrice for Zig Zag. / White cotton pull on hat from Herbert Johnson. Blue and white cotton dress from Spectrum. White peep toe shoes from Ronald Keith. White gloves by Cornelia James. Necklace and bangle from a selection at Zig Zag. Bag from Universal Witness.

Spring’s in the air – and with it the chance to wear all those elegant eye-catching dresses. If you’ve been feeling bundled up in woolies, here’s the chance to look feminine again.

All photographs taken at the Hyde Park Hotel, Knightsbridge, SW1.

Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1973.

Green and white spotted scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Soft green dress with flower print from Van Der Fransen. Belt inset with flowers and elephant clasp, and matching bangle, both from Biba. / Lilac and mauve ankle length dress with purple rosette trim from Van Der Fransen. Pink metallic platform shoes from Sacha.
Cotton mid calf dress from Biba. Gloves from Cornelia James. Beads from a selection at Susan Marsh at the Chelsea Antique Market. White bangles from Adrien Mann. / Pink cotton smock with floral print, yellow cotton skirt, both from Biba. Gloves by Cornelia James.
White cotton hat from Herbert Johnson. Blue and white dress from a selection of elegant old dresses at Van Der Fransen. Black patent shoes from Sacha. / Blue and white fan print dress from a selection at Van Der Fransen. White peep toes with flower trim from Ronald Keith.
White cotton hat from Herbert Johnson. Blue and white striped jersey dress by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper. Shoes by Sacha. / Blue and white striped dress by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Ronald Keith.

Border Lines

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bermona, biba, Chelsea Antiques Market, crowthers, David Finch, Hope and Eleanor, Inspirational Images, kensington market, Mrs Casswell, petticoat magazine, Rosie Nice, Sue Hone, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Blouse, skirt and apron from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Jewellery from Chelsea Antique Market. Crowthers hat. Yves Saint Laurent espadrilles.

With the colours and the mood of an open air market are ribbons bordering the prettiest pinnies and the sweetest yokes.

Fashion by Sue Hone

Photographed by David Finch.

Scanned from Petticoat Magazine, 7th August 1971.

Smock and gauchos from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Hope and Eleanor pendant. Shawl by Ragamuffin. Biba mules.
Smock and skirt from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Shirt by Van der Fransen. Adrien Mann bracelets. Bermona hat.