Today’s Paper

1970s, 1980s, alice pollock, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, Over 21, post modernism, roger stowell
She wears: Vivien Knowland’s paper ‘coolie’ hat, a fan necklace to make as well, and a stripey strapless knitted top by Alice Pollock and Catherine Blair, £20 at 16 Russell Street, London WC2. Paper fan, comes with wooden stand, £5.94 from Ehrman, 123 Fulham Road, London SW3.

Light, bright, plain or pleated, it’s the new way to put colour back into your home and fun into furnishing.

Photographed by Roger Stowell.

Scanned from Over 21 Magazine, April 1979.

A Legacy of Lace

1970s, art deco, Deco Inspired, Inspirational Images, janet reger, Linda Dagenais, meriel mccooey, Meriel McCooey, Sarah Moon, sunday times magazine, Vintage Editorials
Long beige slip in lace and crepe, £19.50; soft-lined crepe bra, £5.40.

It is not often that they auction old knickers at Christies, but earlier this year the celebrated wardrobe of Heather Firbank went under the hammer, and an integral part of the collection was her exquisite underwear. Heather Firbank, sister of the novelist Ronald Firbank, was famous for her unique, occasionally eccentric clothes, and though most of them now belong to the Victoria and Albert Museum, the highest bid for the underclothes came from the lingerie manufacturer Janet Reger and her husband Peter. They made copies of the pieces they bought, and tomorrow they will be on sale from Bottom Drawer, 33 Southwick Street, London W.2, and by mail order. They are expensive, certainly, but unfortunately the luxury of Twenties underwear no longer comes at Twenties prices. All accessories are from Maria Cavallos shop Dignetts, at Antiquarius, King’s Road, London S.W.3.

Model is Linda Dagenais.

Words and styling by Meriel McCooey.

Photographed by Sarah Moon.

Scanned from Sunday Times Magazine, November 17th 1974.

Oyster satin cami-slip, £25.00.
Black lace slip, £19-50; black lace camisole top, £28.50
Original cami-knickers from Heather Firbank collection (also shown on cover). The seam-for-seam copy costs £19-50.

Unseamly tights

1970s, Barbara Miller, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, pretty polly, Random Ossies in Adverts, Vintage Adverts

Another in my irregular series of random Ossie Clark sightings in adverts. This time a wrap around Cuddly dress, made from a crinkle pleated crepe with satin trim.

I think the model is Barbara Miller.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, March 1975.

All the pinks

1970s, Browns, Emeline, francois lamy, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, sonia rykiel
Wide-sleeved jersey coat in pale rose pink; panelled skirt in same jersey, worn slightly longer than the coat ; same colour round-necked sweater; all by Sonia Rykiel; £111, £43 and £34, Browns. Narrow maroon leather belt ; about £6.50. Browns. Wide varnished wicker bangles ; £6 each, Emeline.

Showing your colours: Sonia Rykiel for France goes for all the pinks.

Photographed by Francois Lamy.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, February 1975.

Aubergine cardigan with lilac band on collar and cuffs ; long lilac sweater with aubergine band at the waist ; wide culottes in aubergine jersey; about £76, £35 and £43; all by Sonia Rykiel; Browns, 27 South Molton St, W1. Ivory and jet octangular bracelets ; £25 each; Emeline, 45 Beauchamp Place, SW3.

Aloha

1970s, Adrian Mann, clive arrowsmith, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Max Factor, pat cleveland, Vogue, yves saint laurent

Gauguin got the message and in every island from Tonga to Tahiti, from Fiji to the Ile des Pins to Hawaii, his pictures come to life with beautiful girls in vivid sarongs, necks encircled with leis . . Here, Gil of Max Factor brings South Sea sun and warmth to the January ’72 face with Moisturized Nouveau Beige Whipped Creme Make-up, Honey Translucent Powder and Pinki Cake Rouge. Adds brilliance of hibiscus flowers to lips with Sunset Rose Lipstick and California Transparent Lip Gloss … and to the eyes with Clear Red Creme Rouge, lots of Transparent Lip Gloss, Grey Automatic Eye Pencil and Black Mascara Wand. Hair by John at Leonard, printed chiffon shawl by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche; earrings by Adrien Mann. Flowers by Pulbrook & Gould.

Model is Pat Cleveland.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, January 1972.

Just A Little Something I Ran Up Myself…

1970s, Ace, bill gibb, Clio Goldsmith, cosmopolitan, Gamba, Inspirational Images, Jane Cattlin, liberty, liberty's, manolo blahnik, Midas, Peter Golding, Russell & Bromley, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, Terence Donovan, Vintage Editorials, Wendy Dagworthy, Yuki, yvonne gold, zandra rhodes, zapata
DESIGNED BY YUKI . . . and typical of the elegant raciness that Yuki breathes into everything he creates, a sultry bloomer dress to wear if you dare and if you’ve got the shape. Make it from a 1.5 metre square of cotton jersey. Simply cut two holes for your legs in the centre, step inside and tie the corners on your shoulders. Fake lily, Novelty Imports. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.

. . . with the aid of Yuki, Sheilagh Brown, Wendy Dagworthy, Sheridan Barnett, Bill Gibb, Jane Cattlin, Zandra Rhodes and Peter Golding, eight top designers who were each persuaded to whip up a creation for when you still haven’t got a thing to wear.

Hair by Harambee, 19 Avery Row, London W1.

Make-up by Yvonne Gold.

Persian carpets from Liberty.

I think one of the models is Clio Goldsmith.

Photographed by Terence Donovan.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, January 1978.

DESIGNED BY SHEILAGH BROWN … who goes the whole way with glamour, whipping silk and lace and ribbons into deliciously pretty confections. Here she transforms a 2.25 metre length of soft lace into beautiful balloon trousers gathered twice on ribbon drawstrings. A square of silk crepe de Chine, slashed in the middle for a sliding neckline, ties at the front with wide black satin ribbon. Silver sandals, £24.95, Midas.
DESIGNED BY WENDY DAGWORTHY … the designer who makes sporty Viyella and rough tweeds look soft. Sunray-pleated cotton—hunt for the ready-pleated kind—is cut to make a piecrust collar that’s prettily tied with trailing velvet ribbon, on a poncho top belted like a tunic over a matching skirt. The skirt is one width of fabric gathered on a cord at the waist. Fringe the edges of toning check fabric to make the shawl. Boots, £44.99, Russell & Bromley.
DESIGNED BY SHERIDAN BARNETT who knows how to put together the luxury of velvet and lace in the new romantic style. Sheridan Barnett’s big cosy chasuble is made by folding in half a 2.5 metre length of velvet and cutting a straight line in the centre for the neckline. Tuck under the sides and wrap. closed at the waist with glossy black moire. Knot a fichu of black lace at your throat. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Patent ballet pumps, £11.50, Gamba.
DESIGNED BY BILL GIBB . . . who creates like no other designer. Here’s a little numero (main picture) from Bill’s sketch-pad that’s four straight pieces of jersey and need be only as expensive as the fabric you choose. Cut four 120 X 90cm oblongs of fabric—Bill picked soft ice-cream shades in Qiana jersey. Overlock the edges and run a ribbon drawstring through one short end of each piece. Two oblongs gathered up and tied on each shoulder make the back and front of the dress. The remaining two pieces, gathered in tightly to wrists and draped over your shoulders, make a floaty jacket that can be knotted back and front. Soft gold leather straps are Bill Gibb’s newest accessory. Gold sandals, £24.95, Midas.
DESIGNED BY JANE CATTLIN Sew one short seam in an oval of silky jersey and you’ll have added a glamorous Jane Cattlin creation to your wardrobe. Jane makes it sound as simple as that, though the result looks like the ritziest evening gown in town. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
DESIGNED BY ZANDRA RHODES .. and called Conceptual Chic by Zandra. For her New Wave look, drop a sliver of shocking pink jersey on top of a plain black T-shirt dress. First cut several jagged slashes in a 105 x 114cm oblong jersey, making two of the cuts big enough for armholes. Overlock the edges and decorate with spangles and safety pins, preferably jewelled. Tie bright satin rouleaux around your neck. Stitch pearl or diamante beads on to plain safety pins or buy one of Zandra’s rolls of pins ready-jewelled from her shop at 14a Grafton Street, London W1. At £10, they’re the punk status symbol! Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
DESIGNED BY PETER GOLDING … whose rhinestone-studded jeans, spangled T-shirts and satin waistcoats glint and gleam in his shop, Ace. If you’re star-struck but can’t afford the glittering trappings or spare the time to stitch sequins on your jeans here’s Peter Golding’s tip. Hang your Christms-tree decorations on to ponchos of sheer black lace, add a few stick-on silvery stars and moons, fasten your Lurex sotckings with silver suspenders, shake your feathers and enjoy yourself! The mirrored belt is made by pasting handbag-size mirrors on to any plain belt. Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Lurex stockings, Mary Quant, £1.60.

New Suede Shoes

1970s, alkasura, british boutique movement, hans feurer, Inspirational Images, king's road, let it rock, Malcolm McLaren, manolo blahnik, pat cleveland, Screaming Lord Sutch, stirling cooper, sunday times magazine, Valerie Wade, vivienne westwood, zapata
Satin dresses, £8 from Let It Rock, 430 King’s Road, London SW3. Suede shoes with crepe heels, £17.75 (with green dress) and £17.50 (with black dress), both by Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, London SW3. Screaming Lord Sutch dresses by Let It Rock: 12in.-bottomed jean drains, £2.50; Lurex shirt, £3.95; waistcoat, £3.95. Full skirt and off-the-shoulder blouse (right), £8 and £5 from Alkasura, King’s Road, London SW3. Fifties stilettos and wide belt, £2 and £2.40; silver heart locket, £4.10.

If fashion revivals keep accelerating at the current rate, last year’s hot-pants are going to be a cult by the end of the decade. Who would have dreamed that a Fifties teenager’s wardrobe would be back in fashion by his late twenties? In 1958 Teddy Boys were practically extinct now crowds of Teds and Rockers cram the Fishmongers Arms at Wood Green to hear rock groups like Screaming Lord Sutch and the Houseshakers (above). There are now an estimated 20,000 revivalist Teddy Boys in England, and the drainpipe-trouser trade is booming. These pictures show some of the clothes that you’ve only just managed to forget.

A new and influential shop in the King’s Road is run by an original Ted called Malcolm McLaren. Walking into Let It Rock is like walking into a flashback from the Fifties. James Dean and Elvis posters line the walls; period showcases are filled with hair-cream, plastic combs and sweetheart lockets; the juke-box belts out some of the best rock ever recorded, and the clothes on sale would be a credit to Gene Vincent, Presley, Eddie Cochran or anyone else who made the recordings. Boxes of 45s and old fan magazines litter the floor next to genuine valve radios with a three-month guarantee.

Designers like Stirling Cooper and Mr Freedom have been manufacturing Fifties-inspired clothes for some time, but Let It Rock is the only shop selling the real thing. This particular revival is so premature that there is still a large amount of the original stock around; dirndl skirts, stiletto-heeled winkle-pickers, cotton sweaters and plastic jewellery, not to mention 12in. drainpipe trousers and jeans, bootlace ties, luminous socks and blue suede shoes. This is the only place where Teds can buy off-the-peg ‘drapes’ — their mid-thigh Edwardian velvet-trimmed jackets. The phenomenon of Let It Rock is that it is situated in the heart of Chelsea, which Teds regard as ‘enemy territory’; now they’re selling to the newly converted ‘natives’.

The clothes in Let It Rock are inspired by two groups, the Teddy Boys (and girls) and Rockers (and birds). According to McLaren, Teds like the updated rock styles, whereas the Rockers, especially the girls, prefer ‘strong’ ideas like the characteristic shaggy mohair sweater-dresses and winklepicker boots. ‘Chelsea people’ go more for the authentic stuff . . . if you endorse a revival, you might as well get the real thing Fashion can thank the Fifties for some of the most unglamorous and unflattering clothes we ever knew. That is what makes their unmodified rebirth so difficult to understand.

I’m not sure I can say much more about Vivienne Westwood’s body of work which hasn’t already been said. I always think the best quality in a designer is idiosyncrasy, and Westwood had that by the truckload. Her work didn’t stagnate, but it often referenced her own past and continued to translate the wider cultural past into her own language – and yet never tried to be anybody else. Given my magazine collection covers mainly the Sixties and Seventies, I thought it best to celebrate her by doing what I do best, which is trying to go back and show you the starting point for the things we just take for granted decades later. The origins of what she’s best known for are ultimately in the Teddy Boy revival of the early Seventies and her work for ‘Let It Rock’ with Malcolm McLaren, and this captures that early spark – despite the fact that they don’t mention her at all.

I’ve also been meaning to scan this for a while so, now seemed like a good time. I mean, Pat Cleveland and Screaming Lord Sutch photographed by Hans Feurer? What more could you ask for?

Report by Valerie Wade.

Photographed by Hans Feurer.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, May 14th 1972.

Top left : short fringed dress, £7, from Let It Rock. Bottom left: short mohair dress, £12. Black winklepicker boots, £12. Centre top: V-necked cotton sweater in Fifties fabric, £2; genuine pearlised belt, £2.50; all from Let It Rock. Above: black jean drains, £2.50, and luminous socks, 30p; both from Let It Rock. Off-the-shoulder sweater, £3.95, Stirling Cooper Shop, Peter Robinson, Oxford Street, Vl. Tartan shoes, £16.50, Zapata, 49 Old Clurch Street, SW3. Right: crepe skirt, £6, Let. It Rock. Scarf, 35p, at Woolworth’s

The Twelve Days of Christmas

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara daly, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, Linda Dagenais, Make-up, nostalgia
On the first day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — a partridge in a pear tree . To open our Christmas story, a golden brown soft look, with hair dressed on one side with real partridge feathers. Feathers in the hair were applied either with eyelash glue around the temple and ear area or just by fixing them actually into the hair with the quills like slides and lacquered to set into place.

The Twelve Days of Christmas… inspired us to create for you an exciting and dazzling face for each one of the 12 days in the hope that your ‘True Love’ will shower you with gifts, ancient and modern.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1973

On the second day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —two turtle doves… Dovesevoke romantic images and, in keeping with this theme, we created a delicate and totally feminine look.
On the third day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — three French hens… Here the look is bright, speckly and lots of fun —rather like something out of the French ‘Naughty ‘Nineties’, and very Christmasy… to set the whole look off, we tied a bright pink chiffon scarf into a French bow at the neck. Hair was set in tight curls and fluffed out.
On the fourth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — four colly birds .. . Colly birds are blackbirds, for those who don’t know, so we created this glittery Christmas face for dark birds, with the help of Estee Lauder make-up. Clothes from a selection at Nostalgia. Necklace from a selection by Adrien Mann.
On the fifth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — five gold rings . . . What better time of the year than Christmas is there to really experiment? With this in mind, we created our gold face. Hair was tightly curled with wooden perm rollers, brushed out into curls at the front, while the back was wrapped into a glamorous turban of gold lurex.
On the sixth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — six geese a-laying .. . There are many species.of geese, but we were thinking of the browny, speckled variety when we created this look. The theme is brown and gold. Hair was set in tight little curls. We then brushed it out and ran fingers through it for a natural looking mop. Jacket from a selection by Samm.
On the seventh day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —seven swans a-swimming .. . Here we created the look of a swan—fluffy white feathers surrounding a delicately made-up face—perfect for all blondes. We swirled the hair back in a classic ballerina bun, and added a small false plait. Maribou feathers from a selection at John Lewis.
On the eighth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — eight maids a-milking .. . To create a real Christmas milkmaid, begin by setting hair on wooden permanent-wave rods (tiny rollers will do) and then fluff out with fingers. Then take velvet ribbons and plait into two rosettes and secure with pins.
On the ninth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — nine drummers drumming… In the old days drummers wore your colours and we thought that if we’d had colours, then, surely, silver, gold, pink and black would have been among them. Hair was drawn back into a classic knot at the nape of the neck and decorated with a single sequined strand over the forehead. Sequined top from Nostalgia.
On the tenth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —ten pipers piping… We piped the neck with a multi-coloured bead necklace from Biba to set off this Christmas look. The semi-shingle hair was first dressed into a side parting. Then we pin curled into large snail curls pointing towards the face. Set the back by means of tape or tissue to keep it flat. Comb sides forward.
On the eleventh day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — eleven ladies dancing… Christmas is a time for parties, so here is a super party-time look. Our model’s hair was set in loose curls to gently frame the face and we set it off with a gold sequined Juliet cap from an antique market stall.
On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —twelve lords a-leaping .. . We interpreted this last Christmas gift by giving our face masses of movement and colour. Focal point is the eyes where the theme is different shadow shades dabbed on like patchwork. Hair was dressed with a side parting with the thicker side pin curled to sit towards the face. Flatten the other side when setting with tape so that it lies smooth, and then jazz it up with coloured tinsel.

Christmas Packaging

1970s, Hair and make-up, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Marianne Desnaux, Richard Sharah, Schumi

The whole point of gift-wrapping for Christmas is to make your presents look even more exciting, festive and beautiful than they actually are. Exactly the same principle applies to your face ; it should be packaged carefully for Christmas, in order that it may make a suitably scintillating impression at the festivities at which it is going to be found. And just as packaging for presents grows ever more ambitious year by year, so does it for faces ; no longer will a quick dollop of gold eyeshadow transform you into the belle of the ball. Your own personal Christmas packaging should be like the ones here, a dazzling combination of colour and shine…

Make-up was worked out by Richard Sharah, who’s a genius. “Get the foundation on smoothly,” he says, “and the rest’s easy.” Not totally true, but you know what he means. Hair was by Graham Breakwell from Schumi. He set what was basically a straight bob, with perm curlers, and made the model sleep in them. The result was a totally manageable mop of curls that lasted for days and could apparently be moulded into any shape at all. And the model was Marianne Desnaux, new to the game, and every bit of 15 years old. Her skin’s like a dream, and her recipe for keeping it so is alarmingly simple. “I go to bed early and wash it with soap and water.” But she also said she only wore make-up when she had to. There’s a moral there somewhere. Anyway, happy party going.

Photographed by Graham Hughes.

Scanned from Honey, December 1974.

Prima Donnas

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, anello and davide, ballet russes, Charles Grahame, cornucopia, Inspirational Images, james wedge, Kirsty Klimo, nostalgia, quorum, sheridan barnett, strawberry studio, Vintage Editorials

Gold fabric, wrapped round head, from Cornucopia, from £4.50. Striped blouse, £25. Striped skirt, £14. Pants, with large spots and stars, £20. All by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. All costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft, from £1. Sequins on head from any haberdashery department.

With the aid of a ballet dancer and delicately hand-coloured pictures, we stepped into the magical world of Russian ballet. recapturing the ethereal beauty and charm of ballet at its greatest … a world so unreal and yet so pleasing to recreate for a special occasion.

Make-up by Kirsty Klimo.

Photographed by James Wedge.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1975.

Scarves round head. from Cornucopia. from £1.50. Satin pyjamas. with marabou trim. by Charles Grahame. £35. Pink embroidered waistcoat, £9. Painted net petticoat. £5. Both from Nostalgia. Satin ballet pumps. by Anello And Davide. £2.70. Heavy beaded belt, from The Warehouse. £22.50. All costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft from £1. Plume and ribbons used to tie bottoms of pants from any haberdashery department.

Large piece of gold fabric round head, from Cornucopia. from £4.50. Red chiffon layered dress, with red petticoat (sequin-tied to form harem pants), by Sheridan Barnett, £100. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. Long, multi-coloured chiffon stole, from Cornucopia. from £20. Ribbon round head and ropes of sequins tied round dress bottom from any haberdashery department. Beads round wrist, from Adrien Mann from £1.

Sequin cap, from Cornucopia. from £8. Green top, £9.95. Harem pants. £12.95. Both by Strawberry Studio. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. Striped chiffon scarf. from £2.50. Multi-coloured tasselled silk scarf. from £8. Both from Cornucopia. Gold lacy scarf, tied round arm, from Nostalgia. from £4. Costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft. from £1.