Last chance on the eBay: Art Deco Jacket

ebay listings

Sorry, very bad Duran reference there. Just thought I’d direct anyone who hasn’t seen it, but who might be interested, to this stunning Art Deco jacket which is listed on eBay and finishes tomorrow night. It was on my website for a wee while, but wasn’t really getting the exposure it deserved so it’s priced to go on the ‘Bay. It’s had a bid, so it will be selling. So, last chance!!

It’s quite possibly unique, almost certainly one of the most beautiful pieces of fabric I’ve ever come across and definitely an immensely collectable (whilst still being wearable) piece of….well, art I suppose.

Some eBay Picks

1970s, emma peel, eye candy, platforms, Things I wish I owned

Damn my big feet and head…..here are a couple of fabulous pieces which will never fit me but I would kill to own. Please buy and enjoy them!

I always become obsessed with hats in the winter. Sadly I only have a handful (and only two vintage) because I have quite a large head. Graduation day was entertaining I can tell you. I will post my two beloved hats at some point, a floppy felt number in aubergine with teardrop cut outs (very Biba) and a green suede Emma Peel hat by Edward Mann (who actually made the Emma Peel hats, so it’s a proper one too!!). If you ever see a great vintage hat with an inner measurement of about 23-24″, then give me a shout! I’ll probably want it! This one, the seller tells me, is a slightly stretchy 20″. But I’m not sure it could be 3-4″ stretchy!!

Be you Vamp? Showgirl? Romantic? or Sportster?

1970s, david bailey, eye candy, Inspirational Images, marie helvin, Vogue

No, it’s not a new Spice Girls line-up. David Bailey and Vogue posed this quartet of female styles back in 1974 and I think it’s a wonderful photoshoot, if a little bit silly in premise terms. Bailey can be a very hit-and-miss photographer, for me at any rate, so I thought it would be nice to show you one of the better shoots I’ve found in my stash of magazines! And while it’s certainly all a bit of silly fluffy nonsense, we all need a bit of silly fluffy fantasy when the weather is a bit grim and the world is all stressing about money….

Vamp

You only ever see her at night: she hardly exists before 10pm. Her small house is all black velvet and mirrorglass, with a private bar and a fishtank bath, a hothouse where she grows spotted green orchids. Stomo Yamashata plays at the touch of a button at home and in her Panther Ferrari. She wears all shades of black and the Diaghilev colours – fuschia pink and violet, emerald and kingfisher – and the night scent, Norell. She puts crimson carnations in a porphyry vase of black ink overday, wears them to bring her luck at the Clermont. On rainy nights friends come through the wet to watch old movies in her private cinema – Bogart, Cagney, and her new favourite, LinoVentura.

Showgirl

A natural actress, show-off and scene-stealer. She arrives hours late for almost everything and her entrances are timed to perfection. She spends money like there’s no tomorrow and she makes it too. A born gambler, she cashes in her diamond chips and plays the stock market with gilt-edged assurance. She’ll have nothing but the best, including men. Her music? Mahler and the sound of oil wells. Her habitat: Annabel’s, Ritz bar anywhere, Mark’s Club. Her holiday: Las Hadas, Mexico, El Cuarton, Spain, Bali, Brazil. Her luggage: Vuitton. Her clothes: as you see here. Her scent: the newest. She travels by Lear jet, Rolls Corniche convertible, horse and carriage. She reads the Financial Times and there’s nothing average about her Dow-Jones.

Romantic

She’d like to teach the world to sing in perfect harmony. She’s a believe in love at first sight, a tarot card reader, a collector of ghost stories, a confidante. She has lunch at San Lorenzo, dinner at Tramps, tea for two under the pergola. She’ll only wear clothes with good vibrations – in other words, soft cool, free dresses, camisoles and cotton skirts. Her music: Vivaldi and Dylan. Her scent: Estee Lauder’s Alliage. Her clothes: Jap, Jean Muir, antique markets’. Her luggage: a carpet bag she picked up at a country auction, assorted straw baskets. Her transport: bus, Porsche, bicycle. Her natural habitat: home with faded prints, honeysuckle, herbs and French provincial furniture. Her holiday: a cottage in Wales, a farmhouse in Lucca, a schooner round the Isles of Greece- but she doesn’t have to travel to relax, her whole life’s a holiday.

Sportster
Buddy Holly, Bette Midler and David Bowie take turns on the tape. Her favourite clothes: shorts, Day-glo nylon scarves, metallised leather jackets, boots, things from Too Fast To Live Too Young to Die in the Kings Road, sports departments of Simpson and Lillywhites. Her scent, Helena Rubinstein’s Courant. Flies to the Black Raven at night, cruises around Europe on holiday, meeting up with a yacht in Italy.
Personally, I’m a romantic. I like the idea of being the vamp but it’s too much hard work. Showgirl requires money I simply cannot imagine ever having, and even if I did have it….aside from a Duran on one arm and a wardrobe full of Ossies and Vivienne Westwood frocks….I am not sure I wouldn’t feel awfully guilty every day for being such a glutton. Sportster? Couldn’t be further away from my personality, aside from the Bowie thing of course. Although I do like sports cars, I just can’t drive them!


……
What would you be?

Style Will Save Us

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Very chuffed to have been featured on the Style Will Save Us website today. I must confess it wasn’t a website I’d come across before but I’m very glad I have now! Thank you to them, and my apologies that there isn’t actually any YSL on my site at the moment – but I’m working on it!!

On a side note, I really want to get more goodies up and running on the website but am sadly being scuppered by the very gloomy weather here in London at the moment. I much prefer natural light for my photos, so will just have to wait until the skies clear a bit. Still plenty of lovelies available on the site though, so please do check it out if you haven’t in a while!

Peacocks and Wainwrights…

1970s, british boutique movement, janice wainwright, peacocks, website listings

Some may be negatively superstitious about Peacock feathers, but I prefer to take the more positive superstitions on board where Peacocks and their feathers are regarded as protectors and have mystical powers to benefit the soul.

Seems Janice Wainwright had the same opinion. I knew the woman was a genius!


Exquisitely embroidered and appliquéd, this skirt suit by British Boutique legend Janice Wainwright is one of the most stunning examples of her work I’ve ever had the pleasure of handling. The back of the jacket is entirely smothered in the gorgeous peacock and its plumage, with a handful of flowers and leaves surrounding it.

The rest of the outfit might as well be a potato sack because really the focus of the ensemble is this back. But luckily, Janice was in the habit of creating stunningly tailored and very wearable suits – of which this is one of the best! I love the fact that the optional belt for the jacket is embroidered to match, with the peacock feathers at each end. Iconic and of the highest quality, a classic and a collectable in one fell swoop! Available over at Vintage-a-Peel.

Billy Gibb Exhibition

1970s, bill gibb

Last night I was lucky enough to attend the opening of the Bill Gibb exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey. Well I say lucky, there were far too many people and it was far too hot but aside from that, I had a marvellous time ogling the frocks and trying to avoid all the elbows and arms which kept flying at me (one of which was Twiggy’s, but I’ll forgive her anything!). My own Bill Gibb frock [see below] is far too heavy and hot to be worn even in a cold snap, so I chose to wear my red Biba with the very Gibb-esque sleeves. Turns out that red Bibas teamed with red lipstick (I was channelling Wendy B!) are a good ice-breaker and I met some very lovely people while I mooched around.

I can highly recommend the exhibition, and I certainly will be going back to have a proper look. Not least at an incredible photo, which I’m now desperate to find, of some of my favourite fashion designers together. Yes, John Bates and Ossie Clark in the same photo. And Mary Quant at the back. I wonder if the fur was flying when it got taken?

The clothes are the star, although I do feel that they should be displayed on mannequins rather than suspended from the ceiling on hangers. Gibb’s clothes were designed for a body. Quite often they look very peculiar hanging up, and sleeves are not done enough justice when they hang limply at the side. There’s also the problem that they’re very much touchable (one rare mannequin is sat on a swing in the middle of the room) and I fear much the same problems as with the Bates exhibition that grubby hands will be all over the pieces, and I only hope they have good insurance and watchful staff!


I was fascinated to see the early Alice Paul boutique pieces, I had no idea there were still any around to be exhibited, and my friend Daniel’s early Baccarat piece is certainly a star attraction. One lady exclaimed that she kept coming back to look at it over and over again.

I will also go back to have a proper look at the video projection, which is a documentary made when Gibb was launching his label in 1971. Lo and behold it was the same catwalk show as the cream version of my black dress appeared in, so it was lovely to see it ‘in motion’ on the catwalk.

I will do some more Gibb-orientated posts soon when I start to unpack all my Vogues again and can scan in some beauties. But until then, here are a couple of ones I’ve sold:

and finally a skirt which is still for sale on my website – hurrah!!!

Christies: Avant Garde (a.k.a Miss Peelpants is in heaven)

1960s, 1970s, 1980s, alkasura, mr freedom, ossie clark, vivienne westwood, zandra rhodes

Oh dear oh dear. Just when I thought it was safe to come out from my little cocoon of New Romanticism and delve back into relative normality again after my break in Yorkshire, Christies go and post photos of their upcoming Avant Garde auction. I’m just a puddle of lust over some of these frocks, some you might expect and others you might not. But here are some of my favourites!

Ossie Clark

Pierre Cardin

Norma Kamali
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Let It Rock (Vivienne Westwood)
Zandra Rhodes
Paco Rabanne
Giorgio Di Sant’Angelo
Stephen Burroughs
Mr Freedom
Alkasura
Ossie Clark

But my envy has been eased slightly by the fact that I actually own one of the frocks. The ‘Love Me Do’ dress, as worn by Jean Shrimpton, is one of my absolute favourites and whoever gets this one is a very lucky lady!

Liebemarlene: A Big Blush and a Big Thank You!

liebemarlene


The fabulous Rhiannon of Liebemarlene has been interviewed for The Supermelon and was lovely enough to mention me. Rhiannon always has gorgeous frocks and looks beautiful in her photos, so I’m very honoured that she likes my gear so much! Thank you!!!

eBay shenanigans…..

1960s, 1970s, 1980s, ebay listings, eye candy, gerald mccann

Veering a little off my normal and natural course with some more recent vintage on eBay at the moment, but I couldn’t resist! Firstly, some may find it heinous but I actually think it’s rather fab and a cut above the usual of this type…..


Oh yeah, Frank Usher and sequins a-go-go baby!



Next a little something for big-bow-lovers in this super cute little prom dress with pailettes all over the skirt!


And then there’s a seriously sexy sequined mini dress which is pretty much guaranteed to stop traffic.

To soothe your troubled Sixties and Seventies minds though, there’s also a rare Gerald McCann skirt suit and a lovely moss crepe cape top amongst other goodies.

Doctor Who Girls: The Eightieeeeeeeeees

1980s, doctor who, doctor who companion fashion

I’ve actually surprised myself by how much I’ve enjoyed writing about the Eighties Doctor Who companions. Perhaps it’s because I’m on quite an Eighties trip at the moment, perhaps it’s just because I remember these ladies from the first time around, but those early Eighties gals are really doing it for me right now.

Starting with the lovely, lovely Nyssa (Sarah Sutton, 1981-83). Nyssa is a criminally underrated companion of the old school variety. Perhaps it’s because she’s an alien, perhaps because she’s clearly the sweetest person ever to have graced the Tardis or perhaps it’s because she was so very much overshadowed by her fellow companions. Indeed, for the first time in a long time, the Doctor could barely get a word in edgeways between three different personalities.

Nyssa was a noblewoman from a planet called Traken, whose father’s body was stolen by the Doctor’s fellow Timelord, The Master. Brought back to the Doctor by his future self (long story) she saw her planet destroyed and, unlike so many other companions, really had no choice but to stay with the Doctor and her new friends. Ok, well Tegan. The less said about Adric, the better. Besides, he carks it soon enough. Hurrah! Ahem…..no, it’s very tragic and weepy and…..yes…….well.

Nyssa was adorable but highly intelligent and with that slightly alien quality, subtly played by Sarah Sutton, which separates her from the usual riff-raff humans who have tramped through the Tardis over the years. She also bore the brunt of the new decision for the companions to have set ‘costumes’ in a similar way to the Doctor. So for an entire season, Nyssa was tramping around in very subtle variations on her velvet flower fairy-esque ensemble from her first story. Gradually she lost bits and pieces, gained some more practical trousers and generally adapted a lot better than her fellow Tardis residents. But still, must have been a bit whiffy in there after a while?

Who do we think was the stinkiest of the three? I’m going to say….the teenage boy.


Eventually they saw sense though. After all, they did have two gorgeous young women on the books and what are gorgeous young women good for in Doctor Who? Yes, that’s right, dodgy fashion statements and gratuitous flesh-baring. Which Nyssa did to perfection. Her first foray into fashion is a slightly bonkers striped skirt, sailor shirt and gigantic pussy bow in Snakedance. Which I sneakingly love at the moment. You can see the crestfallen look on her face as the Doctor fails to notice her loveliness in her new get-up. Boo hiss Doctor. You’ll [probably] bonk the living daylights out of some guttersnipe like Rose Tyler but gorgeous Nyssa you ignore? Crazy fool.

Eventually she goes the way of all good companions. She randomly strips off to her underwear on Terminus and decides to stay behind to tend to the sick. To her credit, she hasn’t just fallen in love with some man she’s only just met (see Leela and…most of the others) but it’s still an abrupt end for such a good character.

The same cannot be said of Tegan Jovanka (Janet Fielding, 1981-84). Who the Doctor couldn’t bloody get rid of. Now I must confess that Tegan was my ‘first’ companion (alongside the ginger god that was Turlough….remind me to do a blog about the tasty men in Who over the years!) and therefore holds a little place in my heart. And I used to love her I’m sure. However, she doesn’t stand up to repeated viewing with the hindsight of much better companions before and since.

Tegan was an Australian air stewardess who accidentally wandered into the Tardis (Logopolis) thinking it was a real police box. The murder of her Auntie Vanessa, courtesy of The Master, and a few wrong turns on board the Tardis left Tegan unable to get back home. And didn’t she let us know it! Frankly I’m surprised he didn’t boot her out on some deserted planet, as she was clearly not the type to leave him after falling in love with a man she’s only just met [I’m not sure anyone could put up with her!].

She was also a fatality of the costume concept, and lumbered with the worst of the three. A ‘charming’ and wholly impractical purple air stewardess costume which probably never saw a spritz of febreze in its life!
Eventually she got back to Heathrow to catch her flight, but realised (too late) that she really wanted to be in the Tardis instead. And that, it would seem, was that.

But oh no. The Doctor wasn’t so lucky, and she managed to find him again the very next season. Just when Nyssa had got him all to herself!! She returned without the uniform and with possibly the funkiest Eighties fashions of the entire era, which means she is rather forgiven for the whining and the pouting. It was all abstract print mini dresses, leather mini skirts, stiletto heels and big brassy fur coats, which are now starting to look a lot more charming than they did when I first started to rewatch the episodes back in the 90s. To her credit, she also makes a great statement by leaving. By this point there has grown a grudging respect between Tegan, Turlough and The Doctor. But the death and destruction becomes too much and she simply has to walk away. Brave heart Tegan!

I wanted her wardrobe as a five year old, and now I’m old enough to wear it – I think I want it again! Life is kinda good like that, isn’t it?

Next up was poor Peri (Perpugilliam Brown. Played by Nicola Bryant, 1984-86). Poor in threefold ways. Firstly she had about five minutes to enjoy the gorgeousness that was Peter Davison before he regenerated into cranky old Colin Baker. Secondly she spent most of her tenure wearing leotards and formal shorts and was first seen wearing an itty bitty pink bikini. The greatest victim of the one-for-the-dads mentality. Thirdly she had her head shaved, nearly carked it in a body swap storyline [which I still, to this day, cannot watch because it freaked me out so much when I was 7] and instead ended up married to Brian Blessed. Which is possibly a fate worse than death, I couldn’t possibly comment.

As I mentioned, we first meet the American botanist in Tenerife in a pink bikini. Of course! The only positive aspect to this for us ladies is that she needs rescuing, and Turlough does his thing in a wet t-shirt and skimpy speedos. Hurrah! We can immediately see the two big reasons why Peri remains such a popular companion in the face of being really rather whiney. I still can’t understand why writers and producers think that we want a companion who doesn’t seem to actually want to be travelling with the Doctor at all. Ungrateful hussies!

Saying that, she did have the most tetchy Doctor since Hartnell which makes her behaviour slightly more forgiveable. Although I must say that the sexual tension between the two is possibly the greatest I’ve ever seen on the show. Many may not agree with me, and perhaps it was more to do with Baker and Bryant’s natural off-screen chemistry but I find myself wanting them to end each big argument with a bit of ‘make up’ hanky panky.

“Hmmm, could have sworn the Tardis wardrobe contained more than skimpy leotards and formal shorts. Funny that. Can’t think where it’s all gone. You’ll just have to keep wearing them…..”

It had started off well enough in The Twin Dilemma, with a blousey tartan, err, blouse and a poufy mini skirt combined with black mid-calf boots. In fact, a very Autumn/Winter 2008 look which is possibly why I’m looking upon it so kindly.

Her only full season in 1985 showed us a dizzying array of leotards, stilettos and odd formal shorts. Fairly innocuous for the most part, but miserably impractical and not even that stylish for the time. I do remember wanting to wear my pink ballet leotard outside of ballet classes for the sole reason that Peri seemed to do the same thing. [Funnily enough, I do actually wear black leotards nowadays because they’re really rather awesome for wearing underneath skimpy Seventies tops and blouses].

There was one extraordinary costume in The Two Doctors which involved a tie front spangly top and headband, but the less said about that one the better. Anyone who says I secretly want to wear it is lying. Honest. *cough*

Apparently Bryant insisted that they cover her up a bit for the latter stories of the season, and they responded by insisting that she wear the same outfit two stories running (with the addition of an ‘interesting’ blue coat and beret for the snow scenes). It was a more tailored, burgundy jacket and black trousers, certainly a more stylish and sensible outfit for Miss Brown.

She returned for just two stories in the next season, and the covered up theme continued with a rather dapper looking striped jacket and blousey yellow top (plus newly permed hair and a gentler, more post-coital type of relationship with The Doctor). It’s a shame we didn’t get to see more of this Peri because it certainly feels like a few years have passed and she’s grown up considerably from a girl to a woman. Buuuutttttt, aliens and Brian Blessed intervened and, as pleasure must always be balanced with pain, the next companion looked like this:

Now, now. Don’t get me wrong. I love Bonnie Langford (who played Mel from 1986-87), I really do. She seems lovely, hilarious and she’s looking pretty fab for her age now. But, she wasn’t suitable for Doctor Who. Lots of pantomime-style over-acting, nose-wrinkling and shouty delivery of her lines, not to mention feminism-obliterating thcweams, simply were not suited to the show. On the other hand, I think some of her stories are totally under-appreciated and she’s not unwatchable. She’s just…..well, Bonnie!

The character also had zilch backstory, appeared before she became his companion in some weird timey-wimey paradox and then left the Tardis to travel with a bit of rough called Sabalom Glitz. No hanky panky, just decided she wanted to reform him or something equally daft. Thus she really rather challenges Dodo for the most pointless companion with the most illogical departure.

She also had some truly, truly insane clothes. I’m not going to say they’re awful, they’re just very…..Eighties. Late Eighties. Not terribly good Eighties. But entertaining and cute in an odd sort of way. I’m not even sure where to begin and where to end. There were bows, lemon leisure suits, polka dots, studded denim and, my favourite, the biggest puffed sleeves known to the universe (left). I’ll admit it was precisely the kind of stuff I was ‘designing’ at the time, but then I was a child. And children do tend to think that polka dots and puffed sleeves are ceaselessly stylish. Which makes me wonder how old the costume designer was…..

“Kang outfits are well better than Mel outfits”

Eventually, Glitz waggled a studded shoulder pad in her direction and she left just as Ace (Sophie Aldred, 1987-89) arrived. Now this is where it gets really boring, because Ace marked a return to a stereotyped and costumed companion. Touted as a ‘streetwise’ teenager (example of streetwise-ness, she calls bad people ‘toerags’) and permanently kitted out in the biggest, blousiest black bomber jacket you’ll ever see in your life. She also had a ghettoblaster (didn’t think it could get funnier than toerags? Ha!!) and a wide range of shapeless t-shirts, tights and baseball boots.

To analyse it takes about 2 seconds, [t-shirts and leggings slowly gave way to slightly tighter off-the-shoulder tops and fitted jeans to show transition from girl to woman….that’s about it!] so unfortunately I must end my history of Doctor Who companion fashion with something quite lacklustre. Which I suppose is an appropriate metaphor for the way the show ended.

Ace’s fate is unknown, she was last seen walking off into the sunset with Sylvester McCoy’s Doctor in 1989…..still wearing that bloody bomber jacket!

So, that’s it for now. Only time will tell how history will view companion fashion in the Noughties, but I’m going to hazard a guess at…..badly. Not because they’re bad clothes, they’re just dull. Not representative of the era at all. Far too practical because, for all my comments about practicality, practicality is dull. We couldn’t have had bonkers Biba Jo Grant or the trip-tripping of Tegan’s stilettos running away from the Daleks without total impracticality. And I wouldn’t be the person I am today without having had those ladies in my life for inspiration as an impressionable child and teenager.