Smart Things

19 magazine, alice pollock, british boutique movement, Digby Howard, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, manolo blahnik, ossie clark, quorum, sheridan barnett, Vintage Editorials, zapata

A 19 SPECIAL PREVIEW OF AN EXCITING DESIGNER’S COLLECTION

Sheridan Barnett, pictured above, is the young designer who gave Coopers such a good look and who has now joined the Quorum label, with Ossie Clark and Alice Pollock. At twenty-six, he has established himself as the most exciting designer in London, with a fabulous first collection for Quorum that left them clapping in the aisles. Women’s Wear Daily, the fashion bible of America, devoted an entire double-page spread to his collection, previously unheard of for an English designer. He designs with his girlfriend, a ballet dancer, in mind, and ladies like Grace Coddington, model Eija and Liza Minnelli: “Girls who are individual and chic, interesting, attractive and with oomph . .” and likes them to look alluring, classy and sexy. At the moment, his clothes are expensive but we are hopeful that, later on, they will be available in the cheaper Radley range as Ossie Clark’s clothes are. Meanwhile look out for similar lines.

My slightly belated tribute to the great Sheridan Barnett, who died in November. He is one of those many British designers of the time whose work doesn’t really get the attention he deserves; as you can see here his tailoring was exquisite.

All clothes by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum.

Shoes by Zapata. Hats by Digby Howard.

Hair by Ricci Burns.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1973.

Waiting For Your Sugar Daddy

1970s, anello and davide, Angela at London Town, Ann Reeves, art deco, charlotte martin, Deco Inspired, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, mary quant, michael chow, Norma Moriceau, nostalgia, ossie clark, Tony Berkeley, Tony Berkley, Vintage Editorials
Halter-necked backless midi dress. brown with red and white splodges. has a peplum waist. by Tony Berkeley. 9,gns. Grey tights by Biba. 10s 11d Metallic silver-pink T-bar shoes. by Mary Quant. E4 19s.11d. Photographed at the Boulestin Restaurant. 25 Southampton Street. Covent Garden. London. W C 2 (01-836 7061)

Every girl, if only once in her life, gets the opportunity to eat out at one of London’s smart restaurants. so when the time comes you may as well make the most of it. The main thing is not to feel intimidated by your surroundings. but to be very cool and nonchalant. as if you do it all the time. (No slumping down in your seat or staring around the room with your mouth open.) If you just don’t understand the menu. ask your escort or the waiter. don’t just point to something and hope for the best. Make sure your hair is clean and shiny. and please don’t have it set and lacquered (very uncool). Wear some-thing soft and romantic in crêpe or voile, that moves well when you walk. or a halter-neck dress with a low back to make the most of the remains of your summer tan. Make sure your dress length isn’t mini (it might be the only one in the room. and then they’ll all know you’re from out of town). Don’t spoil the effect of your midi with the wrong accessories—wear a pair of new Granny shoes with the higher heel and bar strap for added authentic ‘Forties’ glamour.

Ignoring the title (which I have, as always, left for posterity) this editorial is pretty damn perfect. On the cusp of what we more clearly think of as ‘Seventies’, just before platforms and the extremes of Glam, but turning its back very determinedly on the ‘Swinging Sixties’ and looking further back with nostalgic eyes. It’s also a delicious, possibly unique, snapshot of the most fashionable restaurants in London at the time.

Model is Charlotte Martin.

Fashion by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, November 1970.

Cream satin hat from a selection at Feathers. Purple and cream chiffon dress. by Tony Berkeley. 15gns Purple tights. by Mary Quant. 15s Ankle-lacing shoes. by Anello and Davide. 75s. Photographed at Julies Restaurant. 135 Portland Road. London. W.11. (01-229 8331)
Brown panne velvet short-sleeved midi dress has a sweetheart neckline decorated with tiny bunches of flowers by Ossie Clark. for Radley. £14 10s. Photographed at Mr. Chows Montpelier Restaurant. 13 Montpelier Street. London. SW7 (01-589 0032)
Backless halter-necked brown and cream chiffon dress, by Tony Berkeley, £13 Aubergine tights. by Mary Quant, 15s. Metallic silver-pink T-bar shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s. 11d. Photographed at Prunier’s Restaurant, 72 St. James’ Street, London, S.W.1 (01-493 1373)
Multi-coloured triangle dress. by Ossie Clark for Radley, 12 19s 6d. Neutral tights. by Biba. 6s 11d. Ankle-lacing red shoes. by Anello and Davide. 75s. Photographed at Burkes Club, 10 Clifford Street. London, W.1. (01-734 1912) All the jewellery on these pages belongs to our model.
Purple crepe shirt-style calf-length dress. by Ossie Clark for Radley. £15 10s. Purple tights. by Biba. 10s 11d Black T-bar shoes. by Mary Quant. £4 19s 11d. Photographed at Chez Solange, 35 Cranbourn Street. London. W C 2. (01-836 0542)
Long purple crêpe dress with multi-coloured embroidery,-loosely tied at neck and sleeves, by Ann Reeves, 8gns. Neutral-coloured tights. by Biba. 6s. 11d Ankle-lacing purple shoes, by Anello and Davide, 75s. Photographed at the Garden Restaurant, 9 Henrietta Street, London. WC2 (01-240 0088)
Golden panne velvet top. teamed with a Bordeaux and gold skirt. decorated with butterflies. by Angela at London Town. 11gns Aubergine tights. by Mary Quant, 15s. Black T-bar shoes. by Mary Quant. £4 19s 11d. Photographed at Provans Restaurant. 306 Fulham Road. London. S W.10. (01-352 7343)

Mirror, Mirror

19 magazine, 1970s, Angela at London Town, Antiquarius, barbara trentham, Barbara Trentham, biba, bus stop, Chelsea Antiques Market, David Tack, hand tinting, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Margrit Ramme, mr freedom, Norma Moriceau, ossie clark, radley, ravel, Ricci Burns, Rose Bradford, Sacha, sheridan barnett, simon massey, Titfers, Vintage Editorials
Black satin beret, by Titfers, £8.50. Black satin blouse with shooting stars embroidered in beads, £6.95; half-mast trousers, £4.95, both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Diamante star brooch on beret, by Paul Stephens, 75p. Dangly fake diamond earring from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Fake diamond necklace from a selection at the Purple Shop, Antiquarius. Black satin beret with rhinestone stars, by Titfers, £8-50. Black satin ‘Superstar’ zipper jacket and trousers, by Angela At London Town, £17. Dangly fake diamond earring, from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Art Deco wall mirror, £6 and black and silver hand mirror, from a selection at Antiquarius. Lipstick and make-up by Biba.

Christmas is coming, so take a good long look at the new you and your clothes. Look for something sexy in black with lots of spangles, for diamonds are a girl’s best friend again.

Just one word from me: Perfection.

Hair by Ricci Burns. Fashion by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by David Tack.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1971

Floral print, crepe de Chine backless dress with halter neck, by Sheridan Barnett at Simon Massey, £8.75. Black sequin snood, from Crocodile, £4. Sheer black tights, by Elle, 65p. Black suede shoes, by Ravel, £6.50. Diamante clip on velvet band, from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Diamante bracelet, £3.45. Ring, 60p. By Paul Stephens. Black fur fabric jacket, £15.95. Floral-printed, crepe de Chine dress with black bodice, £12-75. Both by Sheridan Barnett at Simon Massey. Sheer black tights, by Elk, 65p. Black suede shoes, from Sacha, £5.99. Diamante slides, 30p. each. Crescent moon diamante slides, 75p. each. Rings, 60p. each. All by Paul Stephens. Choker, from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Garter, from Crocodile, £1.50. Mirrors, from the Purple Shop, Antiquarius.
Black satin beret, by Titfers, £8.50. Floral printed rayon blouse with batwing sleeves and knitted waist, cuffs and collar, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £6-50. Two-tone panelled satin skirt, by Mr Freedom, £6.25. Sheer black one-size tights, by Elle, 65p. Black suede peep-toe shoes with red patent butterfly, from Ravel, £6.50. Black velvet beret, by Titfers, £4. Satin spot blouse with knitted rib trim and zipper fastening, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £6.50. Two-tone satin skirt, by Mr Freedom, £6.25. Sheer black one-size tights, by Elle, 65p. Black suede shoes with bow, by Sacha, £5.99. Purse from Q.9 at Antiquarius, £2. Small star brooch and crescent moon brooch, 55p. each, both by Paul Stephens. Diamante bracelets on wrist and ankle, by Paul Stephens, £3.45 each.
Little black knee-length dress in ribbed crepe with satin insets and neck tie, by Ossie Clark for Radley, £13. Black veiling net, from all leading department stores. Sheer black tights, by Elk, 65p. Black suede shoes with red patent trim, by Ravel, £6.50. Diamante bracelet, £3.45. Ring, 60p. Both by Paul Stephens. Moss crepe bolero, in shocking pink with black spots, over bonded-crepe halter-neck dress with spotty trimming, by Rosy Bradford for Quorum, £15.50. Sheer black tights, by Elk, 65p. Black suede shoes, by Sacha, £5.99. Diamante bracelet, by Paul Stephens, £2.

Shades of Autumn

19 magazine, 1970s, art deco, celia birtwell, francois lamy, Hair and make-up, Ingmari Lamy, Inspirational Images, karl lagerfeld, Make-up, ossie clark, quorum, Revlon

We’ve tried to capture the golden richness and mellow nuances of a well-preserved old oil painting, and create our October face with the new Moody Hues make-up from Revlon’s Natural Wonder collection. Face tone should be warm and tinged with a hint of tan, and we used foundation colour ‘Bisque Beige’, 66p., dusted over very lightly with translucent pressed powder in the ‘Medium’ shade, £1.02. We rouged the cheeks with Cheek Shine in ‘Red’, £1-32. Pursuing the same rustic-toned theme we chose ‘Soulful Plum’ mascara and lashed it on both top and bottom lids, 85p. Eyes are a muted melange of ‘Tortoiseshell’ Eyeshadow Stick, 66p., and the same shade in Lid Lights, the powder version, fading to complementary ‘Minty Green’ powder shadow just under the brows, £1.10 each. We dabbed over the eyelids with ‘Brown Shine’ cream blusher for extra gloss and softness, £1.32. Lips are outlined in ‘Bracken Brown’, 62p.

Model is Ingmari Lamy.

Make-up was applied by visagiste Jean Duval of Revlon, Paris.

The beautiful décolleté dress with huge winged sleeves is in black with a yellow, red and blue feather print, from Quorum, £24.

‘Forties-style hair was dressed by Tina of the Jean-Louis Davide Salon in Paris.

Photographed in the apartment of Karl Lagerfeld, the designer, by Francois Lamy.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1971.

Nightwear by Ossie Clark

1970s, charnos, cosmopolitan, lingerie, ossie clark, underwear, Vintage Adverts
So Chic So Charnos

Scanned from Cosmpolitan, October 1979.

Marianne Faithfull

1970s, cosmopolitan, Inspirational Images, marianne faithfull, norman eales, ossie clark
“I like drag and I like girls playing boys. I think it’s very sexy’.

Marianne Faithfull illustrating an article entitled ‘Women in Drag: Not a fetish but a turn on’. While the article itself is a bit, questionable in its attitude (and written by a man), it does give us this incredible photo of Marianne. Who is also wearing an Ossie Clark suit, just to make it even better.

Photographed by Norman Eales.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, April 1974.

Cosmo Girls: José Fonseca

1970s, alice pollock, cosmopolitan, Inspirational Images, José Fonseca, Michael Berkofsky, ossie clark, Penny Graham, quorum, sheridan barnett
José at play relaxing at the Meridiana restaurant Long wrap dress made in crepe de Chine by Sheridan Barnett for Quorum.

José Fonseca is the co-owner of Models One, a busy model agency with top names like Marisa Berenson and Lauren Hutton on the books.

“As a child, I loved fancy dress and I still like breaking the fashion rules. I go to the office in clothes that can take me to a party afterwards—I just don’t know how to wear casual clothes perhaps because I hate my bottom! I feel more like a woman in long skirts than in pants or jeans. Ever since Ossie Clark made his first mid-calf skirt I have been trailing along—Ossie-style. I wear a lot of black because it always makes me feel fantastic. I like the anonymity of black and the way you can use it as a foil for jewellery and scarves. I went mad on sequins last winter. I bought jackets, berets, even a gold sequin ‘Twenties theatrical outfit—I like to sparkle. I wear a lot of make-up as I feel I can hide behind it. My hair used to be straight but I wanted a change so I had it cut and curled and then permed. But I’m going to grow it out.”

This is a part of a larger feature with ‘real’ Cosmo women putting fashion to the test, but this is definitely my favourite one.

Fashion by Penny Graham.

Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, March 1974.

José at work in a black crepe and satin top and long skirt by Alice Pollock. Ivory beads and silver belt were found in an antique market.

Indoor Fireworks

1970s, biba, charles jourdan, cherry twiss, Chic of Hampstead, Inspirational Images, janet reger, Lucienne Phillips, ossie clark, quorum, Sam Haskins, Sheilagh Browne, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, thea porter, Vintage Editorials, Yuki, yves saint laurent, zandra rhodes
Sparkling black chiffon dress with plunging neckline and diamante embroidery, £250 from Thea Porter, 8 Greek Street, London W1

Japanese men are peculiarly affected by a glimpse of the naked nape of a Japanese neck. In Western cultures such excitement is generated by a panorama of bosom (as in this black chiffon dress by Thea Porter), or a smooth swathe of thigh. Here we show some revelations from the London autumn collections… hot numbers for the coolest of winter evenings.

All perfect for lockdowns, I’m sure you’ll agree! It’s also nice to be surprised by Ossie Clark every once in a while – with a corset being so vastly different in tone from what we would usually expect.

Photographed by Sam Haskins.

Fashion Editor: Cherry Twiss.

Hair by Paulene at Michaeljohn.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, 8th November 1974.

Cream and brown two piece with lace split skirt and boned top by Ossie Clark. Shoes by Charles Jourdan, 47/49 Brompton Road, SW3
Slate blue dress by Yuki. Approximately £,165 from Fortnum and Mason, Chic of Hampstead, Heath Street, London NW3 or Lucienne’s, 89 Knightsbridge, London SW1. Gold and jade bangles from Jones, 52 Beauchamp Place, London SW3.
White silk chiffon and net full skirt and sheer top by Zandra Rhodes, to order from Fortnum and Mason.
Black jersey skirt with split front by Yuki obtainable from Fortnum and Mason or Chic of Hampstead. Sheer silk chiffon halter top by Sheilagh Browne, £14 from Quorum. Black suspender belt from Janet Reger, Bottom Drawer, 33 Southwick Street, London W2. Black stockings from Biba, Kensington High Street, W8. Shoes from Yves St Laurent, 113 New Bond Street, W1 .
Corset and skirt by Ossie Clark (as before)

“Whatever she selects has taste…”

1970s, alice pollock, british boutique movement, cosmopolitan, ossie clark, quorum, Random Ossies in Adverts, Vintage Adverts

Obviously I do not condone the message as regards the product being advertised here, but what an amazing, ephemeral capture of the Quorum boutique window with Ossies on both the model and the mannequin (‘Bridget’ and ‘Cuddly’ respectively). I also think that might possibly be the ghostly figure of Alice Pollock in the background.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, November 1973.

Landscape in Leather

1960s, Adrian George, elton john, Gervase, Jim O'Connor, Julian Cottrell, Mensday, menswear, mr freedom, ossie clark, patrick procktor, Tommy Roberts, Vogue
Simply sky, cloud, tree and grass sewn on the back of a brief bright jacket, pilot shape, all leather, buttoned both sides, worn with high-waisted trousers, sky blue silk shirt.

The RCA’s School of Fashion is a great forcing ground for young designers. This year’s show proved the point again, with looks both space-age and romantic, the best in fashion for men… the man in the landscape is Gervase, pop singer with new release, “Pepper Grinder”. And the man responsible for the leather landscape, Jim O’Connor, made a gold lurex evening suit that could outshine Elvis Presley; a memorable droopy satin dressing gown and pyjamas silk-screened in rainbow colours with the words “there will never be another you”.

I would walk over hot coals for that jacket. Jim O’Connor would go on to design for Tommy Roberts’s Mr Freedom boutique and created the legendary winged boots (as worn by Elton John) amongst many other iconic designs.

There’s not a huge amount out there about Gervase Griffiths, what there is mainly relates to his time with Patrick Procktor and those creative circles (see here where there is also a connection to Ossie Clark), but here’s a link to the aforementioned Pepper Grinder which is all the baroque psychedelic whimsy you would expect from 1968.

Photographed by Julian Cottrell-Adrian George.

Scanned from Vogue, September 1968.