In the words of Noel Coward, every girl ought to be able to say the morning after, “I’ve been to a mah-vellous party.” A little champagne does not go amiss, but this winter the clothes alone will put a gleam in your eye. There are enough sequins, crystal beads and glittering fabrics to guarantee you are the star attraction. To clinch the deal, I’ve asked some of the most stunning party girls around to give their definition of what constitutes a marvellous party and to put the most dazzling party frocks to the test…
The numbers that The Moodies perform are firmly anchored in the Fifties and Sixties and ignore the current pop obsessions for necrophilia, drugs, suicide and the like. But under their bizarre make-up they are entertainers of the Seventies, rather than a group of decadent kids living off the nostalgia for ‘golden oldies’. On a good night, when the audience is firmly on their side, they create an atmosphere more like that of a private party than a sterile public performance; they earn their laughs through the juxtaposition of songs, their eccentric make-up, their idiotic props and their energetic dancing.
About a month ago, when they were playing at the tiny Moderna Theatre in Munich’s Schwabing district (surely the cleanest ‘quarter’ in the world), we noticed that the audience of all ages, shapes and sizes, were neatly dressed to the last man and woman; even their jeans had the knife-edge creases of an expensive boutique — the complete opposite of the people they had come to watch, who were described recently in Time Out as “looking like half a dozen friendly whores after a hard night in the Reeperbahn”.
“Everyone here tries to get us to mend our sweaters, they feel sorry for us. They think a hole is a sign of poverty. They wear the gear but they don’t understand what it’s about.
Perhaps that’s why we appeal to them,” said Anne Bean, who is a deceptively homely-looking girl off-stage and a powerhouse of energy on. She is one of the leaders of the group, though she denied that anyone actually led : “We are totally democratic -not that there is such a thing.” All art students at Reading, it was the second time they had played Munich. They banded together to play professional dates after they had sat their finals; they all passed except for buxom Suzy Adderley, who is on one year’s leave of absence and goes back soon to complete her course. They tried their luck at the Edinburgh Festival along with the rest of the Fringe: this was successful enough to land them their first book-ing in Munich.
“Actually, we were offered an Arts Council grant but we turned it down as we thought that it might restrict us,” said Rod Melvin, the pianist and the only man in the group. They still don’t have a pro-ducer, director, manager or agent. The only non-performing person to travel with them is Mickey Ekers who is a stage-manager-cum-electrician-cum-prop-master.
In the early days there were six girls, Anne Bean, Marianne Holliday, Polly Eltes, Suzy Adderley, Annie Sloan and Becky Bailey, but Becky Bailey deserted the group to paint. Anne Bean explained: “We really did the show as part of our finals.” Did this help them pass ? “Quite the contrary. It nearly sank us.”
At the start they followed the traditions of what was happening in pop music at that time: “Even the names we chose were just send-ups of those currently fashionable girlie groups like Lulu and the Luvvers and Martha and the Vandellas” said Anne Bean. “At one time we called ourselves Frank and the Furters” (she looked suitably ashamed) “then Lulu and the Lesbians, then prior to becoming The Mooches we were The Menstrual Seven.”
Before returning to Munich they had been playing at the Theatre at New End, Hampstead, where they had become quite a cult with late-night audiences. The group do num-bers like Gingold’s and Chevalier’s duet Ah Yes, I Remember It Well from Gigi and some of the more aggressive Presley songs, but they interpret these rather than imitate the originals. They make no announcements and use no words in spite of ‘gag fur gag’ written on the pink stars advertising the show. And they are very funny. Thank You For Being An Angel sung with melancholic grace by Rod Melvin became farce as the angel who drifted around stage shedding sequins at every step turned out to be a cross between Mae West and Jayne Mansfield. (Melvin is a talented pianist; the rest of the group are not musicians, but rely instead on improvisation and innovation.)
The make-up is startling. Polly Eltes said: “I really don’t quite know how we arrived at this present look. We started off quite simply looking brown and rather natural with perhaps blue eyelids, but gradually we progressed to what you see now.” They wear water-based wet-white foundation and then draw their features on to these masks. Anne Bean takes it the furthest by banding strips of coloured feathers to her eyebrows, while Rod Melvin, with his great carmine mouth and black sad eyes, looks somewhere between a clown and a Kabuki artist.
“I suppose we do reflect fashions, but I think it’s quite unconscious,” said Annie Sloan. “When Germaine Greer’s book came out (The Female Eunuch) we all wore strict little mannish suits, but somehow we have come to this.” ‘This’ is fishnet tights (with holes), gold-painted lace-up boots, long gloves and clothes they say they make themselves (which no-one would challenge). During the performance they swap clothes so that they look different but don’t use more costumes.
“I suppose that what we wear might seem eccentric and exaggerated; everyone marvels at Rod’s shoes but they came from Dolcis and mine came from Biba’s, so we are only picking up what’s around.” They admit that their art training and observations have probably influenced their act — the masks they wear at one point are exactly like those shown on some of John Davies’s sculptures shown at the Whitechapel Gallery a couple of years ago : “But we don’t want to intellectualise what we do,” said Annie Sloan, “or we might become self-conscious and unable to perform.”
The group pool their money; so much goes on running expenses, the rest on food and necessities. They were scheduled for seven more weeks on the road, ending at the Schiller Theatre in East Berlin. “When we are out of work we all do other things. I model, though I’m not much good at it,” said Polly Ekes. “I can’t really take it seriously, so when I go for jobs I mostly get turned down.” Rod and Anne teach, and sometimes Rod plays the piano for a girl singer and Marianne does typography and pho-tography. It is doubtful whether they will stick together : one has the feeling that they are enthusiastically filling in time before they move on to some-thing else.
Photographed by Hans Feurer. Report by Meriel McCooey.
Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, June 23rd 1974
L-R Vampy wedge heeled shoes by Sacha, Skinny lemon boots by Russell & Bromley, Co-respondent leather running shoes by Sacha, Stripy suede boots with crepe soles by Sacha, Double stripe soft leather boots by Sacha, Tough crepe soled lace-ups by Bata, Skinny leather platform soled boots by Sacha. Cork soled suede lace ups by Sacha.
We threw in the line and fished out some of the best and most original shoes that are in the shops this spring. It may not be an ideal catch for a real angler, but then it depends what you’re fishing for, doesn’t it?
Photographed by Duc.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, April 1972.
Baseball boot by Biba. Red leather with peeptoe by Sacha, Navy and white corresponding lace-up by Russell & Bromley, Vivid China blue peeptoe slingback by Sacha, Red leather peeptoe and green and yellow on front by Sacha, Navy blue peeptoe with ruched panel by Sacha, Red leather embossed with yellow spots by Sacha.
Christopher McDonnell must dream in black and white, and all his dreams must star Ginger Rogers and Rita Hayworth. Because, when it comes to designing clothes, this twenty-eight year old ex-Royal College of Art designer is the very spirit of Hollywood: his clothes have backless bodices, necklines to the navel and skirts that grip the bottom and then flare in Busby Berkley pleats. His model girls, smiling jammily through their bright lips, false eyelashes and heaving curls, snap along on platform soles. One of today’s top stars, Anouk Aimée, is his favourite customer. Here, model Kari-Ann wears black taffeta top and pleated dotted culottes by Christopher McDonnell, £35. Hat by George Malyard. Shoes by Terry de Havilland, exclusive to Marrian McDonnell.
Photographed by Richard Imrie.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, May 1972.
The Duchess of Windsor has been the epitome of elegance for thousands of people, as she manages to combine originality and chic in such a feminine way. With her faultless dress sense in mind, Barbara Hulanicki of Biba designed some of these outfits exclusively for 19, keeping the theme black and white as that most associated with the elegance of the ‘Thirties. We take you back, in affectionate nostalgia, to the days of tea at the Ritz, when immaculately dressed ladies and gentlemen listened to a string orchestra, while nibbling cucmber sandwiches and sipping China tea.
Photographed by Bob Richardson. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, May 1972.
Necklines rise and plunge. Hemlines fall and rocket up again. Bottoms are in and out, bosoms come and go, colours wax and wane, waists move up and down, then vanish and re-appear. Only one thing remains calm, constant and reliable. And that’s black. Good to look at. Restrained. Dramatic. At home in any company. Our own little black number is a case in point. It goes with everything. It’s dry, clean-tasting and elegant. And it’s called Guinness.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, September 1973.
Chestnut leather walking shoes, edged with ocelot-printed calf from The Chelsea Cobbler
There aren’t many accessories shoots worthy of scanning – the majority tend to be fairly static and unimaginative. So kudos to Andreas Heumann for this gorgeous set of pictures which manage to do justice to the contents.
Photographed by Andreas Heumann. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, September 1973
Cream suede handbag with stitched appliques by Nigel Lofthouse at Che Guevara; City Lights Studio. Cream kid gloves by Bill Gibb for Miloré
Cinnamon suede clutch bag by Clive Shilton.
Marbled scarf by Marbles. Marbled leather gloves by Bill Gibb for Miloré
Black suede ankle boots, furred and laced, by Moya Bowler.
Honey suede crocodile print calf lace-ups from Rayne.