Well knock me down with an ostrich feather….

1940s, 1970s, celia birtwell, kate moss, ossie clark, style on trial

(I’ve been meaning to publish this in response to the dénouement of Style on Trial for a while now, so here it is….)

The Seventies won out in the end. I thought it was a lost cause, quite frankly, because people are so biased against a decade they associate with polyester and bad taste. Irritatingly and blatantly ignoring the fact that man made fibres in various forms have been in steady use in clothing since the 1930s. And bad taste is always with us. As much in the Fifties and Sixties as it was in the Seventies and Eighties, our specs have just got rosier with time passing.
Wayne Hemingway’s impassioned plea for glam, punk, northern soul and disco was certainly appealing to me, but I could also see why Celia Birtwell would question whether any of those clothes look remotely appealing on older ladies. My response to that would have been that I know many women who still wear their Ossie dresses well into their forties and fifties and still look incredible. Everything permitting, I hope I’ll be one of those ladies myself. She commented that forties styles were far more wearable for people of all ages, possibly forgetting that the Seventies (and specifically the likes of her ex-hubby) incorporated a lot of forties silhouettes and styles, updating them and making them sexier and more modern. All of which look gorgeous on older women as well.

So, perhaps the Forties should have won? I certainly enjoyed Lawrence Llewellyn-Bowen’s case for the decade, and was convinced that they would all vote for his era of choice. But in terms of the most rounded decade for fashion, I actually think the Seventies had it all.

Affordable clothing for those who wanted it, in the days before it was all farmed out to children in a sweatshop in Sri Lanka. Vivid, fun, sexy clothes for teenagers and twenty-somethings. Glamorous eveningwear and wearable separates for older, working women. Polyester has its place, and revolutionised the lot of the housewife, but you could just as easily get delicious crepes, jerseys and wool.

Platforms were infinitely superior to spindly little stiletto heels, and they didn’t have to be 6 inches high (unless you were a member of Slade or a very brave woman). Different styles and cultural groups or identities were plentiful. You could wear the general style of the era, or you could choose who you wanted to be.

Hair was fairly low maintenance if you so wished. And there was a style for all hair types. Every other decade (and trend within that decade) seems to have beaten everyone’s hair into submission to one overarching style. Likewise with make-up, there was a general look but fewer rules than before. The preferred female silhouette was natural. Curved but never to excess. Softness prevailed. No corsetted waists, but no severe straightness either.

Men actually cared about clothes. Not about labels in the way they do now. Clothes. They cared about fabric, colour, silhouette. They didn’t give a rat’s behind about looking overly feminine, and to my eye actually look more appealing and masculine in all their satin and tat.

Okay, perhaps not in the case of The Sweet….but I still adore them!


Ultimately it was the best attitude to style we’ve seen for a long time. Trying everything. Experimenting, being brave, making your own choices and not necessarily the same choice as anyone else. There was a good reason the New Romantics were harking back to Glam Rock and, to a lesser extent, disco. There was always a general ‘look’, but no one slavishly followed rules (unlike the mods, rockers, teddy boys and so on). You were expressing yourself.

While I don’t think any era can really be truly hailed as the greatest, and certainly style is a very subjective concept (the word stylish, in fact, makes me think of the word timeless….and thus, a bit dull and safe), I think the Seventies was a very brave but very well rounded choice to make.

Another pair of scrumptious shoes I can’t wear…..

1970s, platforms, Things I wish I owned

Actually I’m not even sure I could wear them if they were my size. I’ve tottered around in some mighty platforms in my time, but none so mighty as these. They’re completely adorable though, in a messed up goth-y glam rock Minnie Mouse kind of way, and I love the little feature at the front where the platform sole is rounded so you can rock forward a little. A cute detail which makes it marginally easier to walk in them, but I would still need a taxi driver and sedan chair on tap if I had any hope of not falling over.
Size 3 is just obscenely enviably tiny. Buy them. Teeter around your house in them and just enjoy having tiny feet and gorgeous shoes!

Knickerbocker Glory

1970s, doctor who companion fashion, mr freedom, website listings
Oh I’ve been DYING to use that subject title ever since I photographed these babies!

This Mr Freedom design has become iconic over the years. It seems to have been one of their most popular and cherished designs, more usually seen with matching jacket (as seen below on Katy Manning of Dr Who fame and Olivia Newton-John).

This particular pair of knickerbockers are very unusual though in that they’re made of suede, rather than the velour or cotton you normally find them in. Such a delicious shade they are too, mainly a chocolate brown suede with damson trims and inserts. This does mean they’re a little stiffer than the usual ones, but I think they’re infinitely more fabulous because of how rare they are! When it comes to collectability and investment potential, you can’t go too far wrong with Mr Freedom.

Some eBay Picks

1970s, emma peel, eye candy, platforms, Things I wish I owned

Damn my big feet and head…..here are a couple of fabulous pieces which will never fit me but I would kill to own. Please buy and enjoy them!

I always become obsessed with hats in the winter. Sadly I only have a handful (and only two vintage) because I have quite a large head. Graduation day was entertaining I can tell you. I will post my two beloved hats at some point, a floppy felt number in aubergine with teardrop cut outs (very Biba) and a green suede Emma Peel hat by Edward Mann (who actually made the Emma Peel hats, so it’s a proper one too!!). If you ever see a great vintage hat with an inner measurement of about 23-24″, then give me a shout! I’ll probably want it! This one, the seller tells me, is a slightly stretchy 20″. But I’m not sure it could be 3-4″ stretchy!!

Be you Vamp? Showgirl? Romantic? or Sportster?

1970s, david bailey, eye candy, Inspirational Images, marie helvin, Vogue

No, it’s not a new Spice Girls line-up. David Bailey and Vogue posed this quartet of female styles back in 1974 and I think it’s a wonderful photoshoot, if a little bit silly in premise terms. Bailey can be a very hit-and-miss photographer, for me at any rate, so I thought it would be nice to show you one of the better shoots I’ve found in my stash of magazines! And while it’s certainly all a bit of silly fluffy nonsense, we all need a bit of silly fluffy fantasy when the weather is a bit grim and the world is all stressing about money….

Vamp

You only ever see her at night: she hardly exists before 10pm. Her small house is all black velvet and mirrorglass, with a private bar and a fishtank bath, a hothouse where she grows spotted green orchids. Stomo Yamashata plays at the touch of a button at home and in her Panther Ferrari. She wears all shades of black and the Diaghilev colours – fuschia pink and violet, emerald and kingfisher – and the night scent, Norell. She puts crimson carnations in a porphyry vase of black ink overday, wears them to bring her luck at the Clermont. On rainy nights friends come through the wet to watch old movies in her private cinema – Bogart, Cagney, and her new favourite, LinoVentura.

Showgirl

A natural actress, show-off and scene-stealer. She arrives hours late for almost everything and her entrances are timed to perfection. She spends money like there’s no tomorrow and she makes it too. A born gambler, she cashes in her diamond chips and plays the stock market with gilt-edged assurance. She’ll have nothing but the best, including men. Her music? Mahler and the sound of oil wells. Her habitat: Annabel’s, Ritz bar anywhere, Mark’s Club. Her holiday: Las Hadas, Mexico, El Cuarton, Spain, Bali, Brazil. Her luggage: Vuitton. Her clothes: as you see here. Her scent: the newest. She travels by Lear jet, Rolls Corniche convertible, horse and carriage. She reads the Financial Times and there’s nothing average about her Dow-Jones.

Romantic

She’d like to teach the world to sing in perfect harmony. She’s a believe in love at first sight, a tarot card reader, a collector of ghost stories, a confidante. She has lunch at San Lorenzo, dinner at Tramps, tea for two under the pergola. She’ll only wear clothes with good vibrations – in other words, soft cool, free dresses, camisoles and cotton skirts. Her music: Vivaldi and Dylan. Her scent: Estee Lauder’s Alliage. Her clothes: Jap, Jean Muir, antique markets’. Her luggage: a carpet bag she picked up at a country auction, assorted straw baskets. Her transport: bus, Porsche, bicycle. Her natural habitat: home with faded prints, honeysuckle, herbs and French provincial furniture. Her holiday: a cottage in Wales, a farmhouse in Lucca, a schooner round the Isles of Greece- but she doesn’t have to travel to relax, her whole life’s a holiday.

Sportster
Buddy Holly, Bette Midler and David Bowie take turns on the tape. Her favourite clothes: shorts, Day-glo nylon scarves, metallised leather jackets, boots, things from Too Fast To Live Too Young to Die in the Kings Road, sports departments of Simpson and Lillywhites. Her scent, Helena Rubinstein’s Courant. Flies to the Black Raven at night, cruises around Europe on holiday, meeting up with a yacht in Italy.
Personally, I’m a romantic. I like the idea of being the vamp but it’s too much hard work. Showgirl requires money I simply cannot imagine ever having, and even if I did have it….aside from a Duran on one arm and a wardrobe full of Ossies and Vivienne Westwood frocks….I am not sure I wouldn’t feel awfully guilty every day for being such a glutton. Sportster? Couldn’t be further away from my personality, aside from the Bowie thing of course. Although I do like sports cars, I just can’t drive them!


……
What would you be?

Peacocks and Wainwrights…

1970s, british boutique movement, janice wainwright, peacocks, website listings

Some may be negatively superstitious about Peacock feathers, but I prefer to take the more positive superstitions on board where Peacocks and their feathers are regarded as protectors and have mystical powers to benefit the soul.

Seems Janice Wainwright had the same opinion. I knew the woman was a genius!


Exquisitely embroidered and appliquéd, this skirt suit by British Boutique legend Janice Wainwright is one of the most stunning examples of her work I’ve ever had the pleasure of handling. The back of the jacket is entirely smothered in the gorgeous peacock and its plumage, with a handful of flowers and leaves surrounding it.

The rest of the outfit might as well be a potato sack because really the focus of the ensemble is this back. But luckily, Janice was in the habit of creating stunningly tailored and very wearable suits – of which this is one of the best! I love the fact that the optional belt for the jacket is embroidered to match, with the peacock feathers at each end. Iconic and of the highest quality, a classic and a collectable in one fell swoop! Available over at Vintage-a-Peel.

Billy Gibb Exhibition

1970s, bill gibb

Last night I was lucky enough to attend the opening of the Bill Gibb exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey. Well I say lucky, there were far too many people and it was far too hot but aside from that, I had a marvellous time ogling the frocks and trying to avoid all the elbows and arms which kept flying at me (one of which was Twiggy’s, but I’ll forgive her anything!). My own Bill Gibb frock [see below] is far too heavy and hot to be worn even in a cold snap, so I chose to wear my red Biba with the very Gibb-esque sleeves. Turns out that red Bibas teamed with red lipstick (I was channelling Wendy B!) are a good ice-breaker and I met some very lovely people while I mooched around.

I can highly recommend the exhibition, and I certainly will be going back to have a proper look. Not least at an incredible photo, which I’m now desperate to find, of some of my favourite fashion designers together. Yes, John Bates and Ossie Clark in the same photo. And Mary Quant at the back. I wonder if the fur was flying when it got taken?

The clothes are the star, although I do feel that they should be displayed on mannequins rather than suspended from the ceiling on hangers. Gibb’s clothes were designed for a body. Quite often they look very peculiar hanging up, and sleeves are not done enough justice when they hang limply at the side. There’s also the problem that they’re very much touchable (one rare mannequin is sat on a swing in the middle of the room) and I fear much the same problems as with the Bates exhibition that grubby hands will be all over the pieces, and I only hope they have good insurance and watchful staff!


I was fascinated to see the early Alice Paul boutique pieces, I had no idea there were still any around to be exhibited, and my friend Daniel’s early Baccarat piece is certainly a star attraction. One lady exclaimed that she kept coming back to look at it over and over again.

I will also go back to have a proper look at the video projection, which is a documentary made when Gibb was launching his label in 1971. Lo and behold it was the same catwalk show as the cream version of my black dress appeared in, so it was lovely to see it ‘in motion’ on the catwalk.

I will do some more Gibb-orientated posts soon when I start to unpack all my Vogues again and can scan in some beauties. But until then, here are a couple of ones I’ve sold:

and finally a skirt which is still for sale on my website – hurrah!!!

Christies: Avant Garde (a.k.a Miss Peelpants is in heaven)

1960s, 1970s, 1980s, alkasura, mr freedom, ossie clark, vivienne westwood, zandra rhodes

Oh dear oh dear. Just when I thought it was safe to come out from my little cocoon of New Romanticism and delve back into relative normality again after my break in Yorkshire, Christies go and post photos of their upcoming Avant Garde auction. I’m just a puddle of lust over some of these frocks, some you might expect and others you might not. But here are some of my favourites!

Ossie Clark

Pierre Cardin

Norma Kamali
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Let It Rock (Vivienne Westwood)
Zandra Rhodes
Paco Rabanne
Giorgio Di Sant’Angelo
Stephen Burroughs
Mr Freedom
Alkasura
Ossie Clark

But my envy has been eased slightly by the fact that I actually own one of the frocks. The ‘Love Me Do’ dress, as worn by Jean Shrimpton, is one of my absolute favourites and whoever gets this one is a very lucky lady!

eBay shenanigans…..

1960s, 1970s, 1980s, ebay listings, eye candy, gerald mccann

Veering a little off my normal and natural course with some more recent vintage on eBay at the moment, but I couldn’t resist! Firstly, some may find it heinous but I actually think it’s rather fab and a cut above the usual of this type…..


Oh yeah, Frank Usher and sequins a-go-go baby!



Next a little something for big-bow-lovers in this super cute little prom dress with pailettes all over the skirt!


And then there’s a seriously sexy sequined mini dress which is pretty much guaranteed to stop traffic.

To soothe your troubled Sixties and Seventies minds though, there’s also a rare Gerald McCann skirt suit and a lovely moss crepe cape top amongst other goodies.

Go Shopping in the Seventies

1970s, british boutique movement, eye candy, Inspirational Images, vintage fangirl squee, website listings

One of the pet peeves of the vintage lover is when you’re reading your vintage copy of Petticoat or 19 or somesuch, that you can’t just walk into a shop the next day and buy the dress of your dreams – like the first reader of the magazine could have done.

One of the best things about my being geeky enough to buy a lot of these magazines is that sometimes, just sometimes, I can actually offer the item for sale. How lovely is that? From this delightful 4th April 1970 issue of Petticoat, we have a feature on appliques in all forms.


Sadly I don’t have everything for sale, but you may notic
e the butterfly trimmed coat and maxi skirt featured from Wallis.

Well, you can buy it here. Hurrah, hooray and huzzah!