Doctor Who Girls: The Seventies (Part I)

1970s, doctor who, doctor who companion fashion, jon pertwee

Caroline John as Liz Shaw (1970). Possibly the best pins in Who History, Caroline John was the natural successor to Wendy Padbury’s brainbox character of Zoe. Except Liz (great name, non?) was a modern day woman who just happened to be a brilliant scientist in her own right.

Brought in as UNIT’s replacement for The Doctor initially, she would end up ‘assisting’ him (in his exile on Earth) for four stories in Jon Pertwee’s debut season as The Doctor. She was the perfect foil for his slightly pompous, dandy Doctor, being as she was rather down-to-earth and of a relatively equal intellect (for an earthling anyway).

She also ran around in some seriously scanty skirts, fabulous knee high boots and even a floppy hat in The Ambassadors of (ping!) Death. Thus showing that the length of a gal’s skirt is not relative to the size of her brain. And also, yet again, proving that Doctor Who was no place for maxi skirts.

Overshadowed by her successors, and sidelined somewhat by her brief tenure by The Doctor’s side (she never even got a jaunt in the Tardis, poor love!) Liz Shaw is one of my favourite companions – for she was an intelligent, independent woman who neither needed, nor fell in love with, The Doctor.

Dear, lovely intelligent Liz Shaw. So of course the producers decided to continue in their inspirationally modern slant on the screaming companion character in the newly liberated Seventies. Right? Wrong. Say hello to Jo Grant (1971-73), and her knickers.

I’ve already blogged about Miss Grant as a Fashion Icon, thanks to her prediliction for dressing in head to toe Biba. Jo was wonderfully ditzy, seemingly rather dim and considerably younger than her predecessor. The implication was made that her promotion into UNIT was thanks to some healthy nepotism, but she was certainly a bright spark when it was needed. Although always with a giggle and a flutter of those spidery Biba eyelashes.

The Doctor certainly seemed to enjoy her company, although I would dispute that he preferred his companions to be a little bit screamy and stupid. He was certainly frustrated by her silliness, and charmed by her hidden depths, which would imply that he really does prefer a bit of spunk and spark in his companions. Jo was rather too much the adoring girl though, which often brought out the most patronising aspects of her mentor’s character.

All this aside, and I’m not even sure where I stand on Miss Grant – except that I would happily stand on and squish her in an attempt to get into her wardrobe and steal most of her gear, she was certainly adorable, always fabulously attired and occasionally quite brilliant. I won’t go into specific episodes because each and every one is a gem where Jo’s clothes are concerned, and each and every one is a Biba gem at that!

They returned to a slightly more sophisticated young woman for the next occupant of the Tardis wardrobe. This time dressed in Biba rivals Lee Bender for Bus Stop, Sarah-Jane Smith (1973-76 and beyond) was a fiesty reporter/journalist type who would stride headfirst into situations and enjoyed an occasionally snippy dialogue with her first Doctor. This first generation Sarah-Jane was my favourite and, unlike most people, I truly loved (and never questioned) that she was paired with Pertwee in The Five Doctors in 1984. Alas though, it eventually went horribly wrong with The Doctor’s regeneration and the introduction of a certain Mr Harry Sullivan.

Originally, the replacement for Jon Pertwee had been intended to be an older actor in the same vein as William Hartnell’s interpretation of the character. So producers had hired Ian Marter to play a new male companion (the first since Jamie left in 1969), because they felt they needed a virile young man to do….well, virile young man things. Nevermind that they already had Elisabeth Sladen as a strong female character, of course they needed a chap for chap things. In the end, as we now all know, they hired a young Tom Baker for the role who was perfectly capable of running around and in no need of a Harry Sullivan. So with effectively a ‘spare’ companion, they had to relegate poor Sarah Jane to mere screaming, girly companion character to give Harry enough to do (and provide enough of a contrast to the two male leads).

Doctor: If I touch these two wires together, I can go back to having just one sexy, confident and intelligent female companion.

Harry: I say Doctor, steady on now old chap….I mean…..golly…..gosh…..that’s really rather beastly….


Sarah Jane: *wibble* *scream*


Doctor: There’s just no debate is there?


Now I love Harry and his excessive poshness. But thankfully he was let go by the end of this debut Fourth Doctor series, and Sarah Jane was finally able to regain her place as The Doctor’s main squeeze. Although she never did quite recover from this volte face in her characterisation, and remained perhaps a little too girly and screamy for my liking. Luckily, Sladen has had another chance (or three) at the role (most recently in her own series spin-off from ‘Nu-Who’) and has returned to the stronger character I so adored in her first series with Pertwee.

Style-wise, she must be applauded for never wearing a mini skirt and thus breaking with classic Who tradition that, regardless of how long skirts may be outside the Tardis, the companion always deems a mini skirt to be suitable quarry-sprinting attire. She donned a very cutesy print maxi dress in The Masque of Mandragora, one of Victoria’s alleged cast-offs (peculiarily Edwardian for Miss Waterfield but we’ll let that go) in The Pyramids of Mars and who on earth could forget the Andy Pandy striped dungarees from her departure story, The Hand of Death?

Let’s just pretend her rescue from a little tumble down a slight incline in The Five Doctors never happened shall we?

Part II coming soon (where we see the true meaning of the phrase “One for the Dads”, see where Servalan’s cast-offs ended up and try to work out why on earth a fully grown woman in a school uniform would be such a popular companion?).

Beautiful Bolan, Awesome Alkasura…..

1970s, alkasura, glam rock, marc bolan, Things I wish I owned

I thought my Bolan jacket was something else. Then I saw this beauty, currently listed (probably with whopping great big reserve, quite rightly) on eBay.


Not only is it a Marc Bolan-worn piece, it’s also by Alkasura – whose pieces are the sartorial equivalent of hens teeth.

If some millionaire wishes to purchase this piece for me, I’d be very grateful!

Veruschka goes cheap

1970s, biba, british boutique movement, bus stop, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, telegraph magazine, veruschka


I must admit, I’ve never really understood
the whole Veruschka ‘thing’. I mean, clearly she’s never encountered the ugly stick in her life but I find her looks to be a bit….well……blahhhhhh. I like unusual, quirky looking people and she is frequently described as ‘amazonian’ and exotic but I simply cannot understand or see this.

Anyway, I slightly changed my mind when I saw this gorgeous spread in The Telegraph Magazine (something of a Seventies boutique bible at times) from 1972. Touted as “The price of looking like Veruschka is less than you think” and showing her in inexpensive British Boutique clothes, she actually looks quite cute for once…..and I really love the background of Woburn Abbey.


The front cover in a
Jeff Banks smock is my joint favourite with the window shot of her in Bus Stop cheesecloth. But they’re all pretty fabulous……enjoy!!

From top: Blue Bus Stop cheesecloth dress; Issey Miyake pedal pushers; Anthony Price for Che Guevara top and pedal pushers; Biba print dress

Tribute to Yves Saint Laurent in Shoe Form

1970s, personal collection, platforms, shoes, yves saint laurent

By way of a little tribute, here are two of my favourite pairs of shoes….both by YSL.


Firstly the [faux I think] snakeskin peeptoes I wore to the Sex and the City film, coincidentally on the night he passed away.



Secondly, the black patent peeptoes with red platform soles and heels. Which I wore with my black and red striped Biba dress to the Scissor Sisters gig last summer.

Mad About The Dress

1970s, biba, eye candy, man about the house, moss crepe, personal collection, vintage fangirl squee

The lovely Sharon Rose suggested I post more pictures of myself in some of my favourite frocks. Now in theory, that is a lovely idea. In reality, I fear cameras greatly unless I am properly prepared with a shovel-load of make-up and good lighting. Which is why so few photos of me are allowed out into the great world wide web.

However, I decided to post a photo of myself in one of my favourite Biba dresses….nay, one of my favourite dresses period. Mainly because I was completely delighted to see this dress, albeit in pale yellow rather than red moss crepe, worn by the fabulous Paula Wilcox as Chrissie in Man About The House (remade as Three’s Company in the US). I was less delighted to see she ‘fills’ it rather better than I do, but then again…..mine is so teeny tiny I couldn’t fit much more in it anyway! Small boobs can be very handy when it comes to Biba clothes…..

The sleeves are my favourite bit, they’re gigantic (not the biggest though, I think my Bill Gibb takes that particular biscuit) and have a very deep buttoned cuff, which gives a delightful swag. Honestly, this has to be one of my top ten favourite dresses in my closet……

Perhaps at a later date I will post a picture of me in the Jean Varon dress her flatmate Jo is also wearing in this particular episode! Yes, I have both dresses!

La Belle Epoque (de Biba)

1970s, barbara hulanicki, biba, british boutique movement, ebay listings

Biba were spearheading the Seventies revival of all things antique, including the ‘lounge’ culture. Spectacular gowns and peignoir sets were made ostensibly for the bedroom but far too good to be restricted to it.

This incredible peignoir set of dress and dressing gown is made in a distinctively Victorian / Edwardian style, with voluminous amounts of fabric and lavish ruffled hems, necklines and sleeves.
You can do some serious swishing in this set, believe me – the photos don’t even show just how much volume there is!

Fit for any drama queen and a very, VERY rare example of this type of extraordinary, idiosyncratic Biba lounging lifestyle.

Pick of this week’s eBay offerings: Radley in Celia print and Biba catalogue scrumptiousness….

1960s, 1970s, biba, british boutique movement, celia birtwell, ebay listings, radley

RADLEY
Once upon a time, I happened across a Radley own-label dress with a print which screamed Celia Birtwell. It was very like her later, crazier prints you see on the later Ossie pieces. I was fascinated, and perplexed because it was definitely a later Radley piece with the ‘girly face’ label. But it was definitely Celia.

I wondered if it was a one-off. But now I’ve found this little beauty, which is exactly the same design of dress, with a totally different print – but also a very distinctly Celia one! I can only surmise that Birtwell remained contracted to Radley after her divorce from Ossie Clark and continued to create at least one collection under their label.

Printed sketchy flowers and squiggles cover the deep plum sheer chiffon of this delicious dress. The gathered waist, the draped faux-wrap bodice and the draped back from the fitted yoke give it a wonderful grecian goddess feel. I love the very subtle effect of the pale topstitching, and the sheerness without lining means you can be as audacious as you like – whether you wear a slip or undies is up to you! And that, is the influence of Ossie! 😉

£38 Starting bid over at eBay

BIBA
I always get very excited by Biba pieces which were featured in the catalogues of the late Sixties. Perhaps because Biba was often so ephemeral and fast-moving, and not always featured as heavily in magazines of the time as you might think, it’s lovely to see them in situ and be able to date them (and see the original prices!).

This lace blouse was originally part of an ensemble with a skirt (which could be long or short apparently) but clearly is extremely wearable on its own.


In the catalogue’s own description “Spider lace peplum suit. A close
fitting waisted jacket with narrow sleeves, buttoning to a high Edwardian neck.” The full suit was £7 7s in 1969.

Starting bid of £45 over at eBay

But that ain’t all…..there’s also a delicious couture label Ossie Clark ensemble, a superb bohemian Janice Wainwright, a super sweet candy pink Jean Varon dress and some other lovely non-designer pieces. Please do go and check it out!

Katy and Crowthers

1970s, british boutique movement, doctor who, doctor who companion fashion, personal collection, vintage fangirl squee
Katy and Crowthers
Now I’ve managed to get my pesky scanner to start working again, I hope to get back on track blogging for you a lot more than I have been of late. Oh, and listing more gorgeous items too of course! But I must admit I often become absorbed by the piles and piles of magazines and photos I’ve accumulated and keep meaning to show and tell for you all.

I remembered I had finally got around to photographing a piece in my private collection (wonders will never cease!) which is a superb example of why labels aren’t always important to a collector.

I had often wondered who designed the dress I’d seen worn in a tiny publicity photo of Katy Manning (Jo Grant in Doctor Who: the companion who seemed to live and breathe the Biba Girl ideal). Eventually I saw the dress by chance on eBay one day and noted it was by the lesser known boutique Crowthers, who were in the habit of some very nifty Ossie and Biba knock-offs (but then, who wasn’t at that time?). I put it on my watch list, safe in the knowledge that no one knew what it was, it wasn’t a big name label and was unlikely to go out of my price range. Well, I was wrong. I think people just fell in love with its boutique-y gorgeousness, I’m fairly certain no one else was geeky enough to know about Katy wearing it.

Katy and Crowthers

So I sulked. For a bit. Well, maybe more than a bit. [Shhhh!! Don’t tell anyone how much of a brat Miss Peelpants can be when she’s thwarted!] But now armed with the knowledge that it was by Crowthers, I could keep looking for it and hope that lightning might strike twice. And – thank heavens – it did. Plus, courtesy of a good Doctor Who-fan-friend of mine, I was also able to nab a higher res. image of Katy wearing it. Hurrah!!

Katy and Crowthers

Get It On…

1970s, british boutique movement, glam rock, marc bolan

Super rare piece of Glam Rock memorabilia from the early Seventies. This frankly awesome jacket is externally pretty fabulous with its yellow and purple panels and bright yellow buttons. The silhouette and colour scheme is very reminiscent of Mr Freedom pieces, and its definitely a manufactured piece, but sadly any label it may have had is no longer there.

The real excitement comes from the inside though. The repeat print of Marc Bolan is just so vivid and so fabulous I can’t even put it into words. If you’re a Marc/T-Rex fan – you absolutely need this jacket. It’s a rare piece of early Seventies fashion, and a rare slice of pop history!

Over at eBay (alongside some other incredible goodies, including Miss Mouse, Ossie Clark and Bus Stop!)

Ms. Peelpants and The Art of Lounge

1970s, biba, british boutique movement, cathy mcgowan, kate bush, mr freedom, ossie clark, zandra rhodes

Lazy
I want to be lazy
I want to be out in the sun
With no work to be done
Under that awning
They call the sky
Stretching and yawning
And let the world go drifting by

I want to peep
Through the deep
Tangled wildwood
Counting sheep
til I sleep
Like a child would
With a great big valise full
Of books to read
where its peaceful
While I’m
Killing time
Being lazy

Well, truth be told Mr Berlin, I get lazy in autumn rather than summer. Don’t get me wrong, I long to go out and kick up some crispy fallen leaves with my newly-pulled-out-of-storage favourite patent knee highs and snuggled up in my cinnamon coloured chenille coat. Who doesn’t? But mmmm…….bed is a very inviting place in the Autumn. When the temperature is just the right side of downright nippy…..but you still let out a little moan and snuggle back under the duvet.

Suddenly autumn is the time you start looking at new cushions and bedspreads and get all excited about those delicious cinnamon, claret and chocolate shades. Actually…excuse me while I go stock up on all those delicious things. And while I’m at it, I may have to buy a whole load of cushions, fabric and set to work creating my own little Biba boudoir retreat.

Trouble is, we’ve lost the art of lounge. Back in the Seventies they catered brilliantly for this delicious indulgence. Like a nouveau Rococco period, where negligees and beautiful slippers were made just the right side of dressy so you never needed to emerge from that dreamy morning state….right through til your dinner party. Check out the Petticoat fashion spread I’ve scanned in, all about how to dress for lounging. Now that’s a clothing lifestyle I can really get on board with. And I’ve also included a picture of the untouchably awesome Kate Bush – just check out the colour of that divine original Thirties dress!

Laziness doesn’t necessarily mean slobbishness, so I say reclaim your weekend!!! Learn how to lounge!! Screw minimalism, create a luscious boudoir and lock the door on the world. You’ll need the clothes too, but really most vintage will do the trick for this. Put on that Ossie or Biba you’ve not had the guts to wear out yet. Same goes for the platforms, you’ve not had a chance to wear them outside yet so you can wear them in bed. Their time will come, but don’t keep them in a box until it does!!

Pour a glass of wine, break off a large piece of chocolate…..okay, maybe two large pieces…..oh what the hell, have the whole pack! And just indulge your senses……

In case you still need some clothes to lounge in, try these beauties…..

L-R: Cathy McGowan claret maxi dress, Biba red velveteen maxi dress, Zandra Rhodes print loungewear gown, Mr Freedom sateen maxi dress, Wallis moss crepe maxi skirt and coat set.