Please Illustrate

Illustrations
Some more illustrations I’ve spotted on my travels through time and magazine space….




Peek Inside The Boutique: marrian-mcdonnell

brian duffy, british boutique movement, christopher mcdonnell, marrian mcdonnell, seventies fashion, telegraph magazine

Christopher McDonnell in the South Molton Street boutique. The model wears a blouse and layered culottes in organza, 42 gns.

I love these sparse and splendid boutique insights you can occasionally glean from vintage magazines. A while ago, to my shame, I promised that I would scan the entire of this July 1970 Telegraph Magazine article on London boutiques. Slap my wrist and call me Kate Moss, I clean forgot. I intend to amend, starting with marrian-mcdonnell.

marrian-mcdonnell

45 South Molton Street, W1 and 80 Sloane Avenue, SW3

The first Marrian-McDonnell boutique opened in Sloane Avenue in April 1966. Christopher McDonnell, who had been a fashion editor with Queen magazine, where he met Mary Ann Marrian, designed clothes that were casual but elegant. A whoesale range was produced soon afterwards to meet the demand from other stores, and now the partners export to the U.S. and Scandinavia, too.

In 1968 the second boutique opened in South Molton Street, and its success emphasises Christopher’s flair for giving a touch of glamour to classic fashion.

The Daily Telegraph Magazine, July 17th 1970

(This photo by Guy Cross) Safari jacket, 13 gns, knitted trousers and floor length coat, 19 gns.

Typical Marrian-McDonnell ensemble is this cotton midi-dress with matching sleeveless coat, 20 gns.

Outside the dressing rooms, jersey jumpsuit, 13½ gns, worn with zip-fronted snakeskin jacket, 45½ gns.

Hair by David at Michaeljohn. Photos by Duffy.

Boo-ga-loo Flick Book

flick colby, Honey Magazine, marsha hunt, pan's people
A brilliant dancing feature from Honey magazine, December 1969


Boo-ga-loo-ing, as Marsha Hunt says, is emotional. You can dance if you feel good and know what you’re doing but, if you feel nervous and inhibited, you’ll just look that way. Around Christmas there are always a lot of parties and you want to look groovy. You want to look hip-with-it, not all gawky. So, to make you feel kind & confident, we’ve devised a special Flick Book. It’s the latest dancing and it’s really simple. All you have to do is cut out each picture carefully. Pile them high starting with no. 1 at the bottom and bulldog clip ’em together. Then flick the pages and see how it’s done.

Pretty Flick Coleby [sic] is the young choreographer and lead dancer of Pan’s People — six girls and sometimes two men — who dance on “Top of the Pops” and other pace-setting programmes. They are easily the best group around, so Flick’s advice is really hot.

“When you’re dancing, bypass your head, by-pass your mind and dance from your middle. The minute you start to concentrate on the effect you are making, you are not ‘sent’. You look uptight and stiff.”

Probably the biggest give-away, explained Flick, is keeping your head straight. Let your head relax and move with your body. It won’t fall off. Also, be aware of the expression on your face.

“Don’t look like a dancing machine; have some expression.” Flick suggests practising in front of a mirror at home.

“It’s essential to know what you look like,” she says. “Once you know exactly what happens — when you move your arm in a particular movement, you will feel more confident. You can’t make a fool of yourself.” Flick was cool about clothes.

“Wear as little as possible. Remember it’s hot dancing. If you’ve got good legs, wear a short, short skirt; if you’ve got a good midriff, wear it bare. Make the most of what you’ve got and wear something that flatters you. Fringes on things will accentuate your movement, and so will a belt with a big buckle hung on the hips. Don’t wear something dark; try to swing in something light, or sequined, so you show up and don’t just melt into the shadows. Shoes with a clumpy heel are good, but boots support your ankles. Listen to lots of pop. It helps if you know a record. You’re prepared. You know what’s going to happen next. You can relax land enjoy it.” Above all, Flick says, “Don’t fling your arms around. Keep it neat and tidy. Keep it close. You want to look good, not pretentious.”

Marsha Hunt is a sensational dancer. “I got recognition because of my appearance,” she says. “You see, my hair floats around like candyfloss when I move.” It looks quite fantastic, but apparently taxi-cab drivers don’t think so. They drive straight past, pretending not to see her. “I guess my hair is a bit awesome,” she went on. Still, her promoters don’t agree. They reckon it’s very valuable; they even tried to insure it with Lloyds. Marsha says that her style of dancing is entirely emotional, not contrived at all, so she doesn’t quite know how to tell anyone else how to do it. She just knows that if the music is going in a particular direction she wants her body to go too. But exercises are important.

“People just aren’t aware of the different parts of their bodies. If you ask them to move their hands, they move their fingers. If you ask them to move their hips, sure, they move their hips, but their bodies too. You must be aware of your whole body and the only way is with exercises. I do them every day but I’m not religious about it. Maybe I can’t get it together one day.

Still, if I miss one day a week, in thirty years” time my body will be much healthier than someone who has never done any. I always do my exercises to the same record, You Can’t Always Get What You Want. (That song title sums up a little of Marsha’s philosophy. “I think ‘hope’ is a waste of energy,” she says.). “And I always dance to music I know. Then I know what to say with my body. I can express the lyrics. Otherwise it’s just boo-ga-loo-ing around to sound. But of course my kinds dancing is very egotistic. I am on the stage trying to project something. It’s unnecessary in a club to do such big movements.”

Geeky Games

Foale and Tuffin, janice wainwright, lps, pimm's

Sincerest apologies for the lack of posting, I’ve been on a little trip down to the West Country and (as yet) don’t have much in the way of mobile internet access. I’m lining up some [hopefully] fabulous blog posts to make amends, and some new website listings, but until then I thought I would share my new charity shop game. Since there’s a distinct lack of interesting gear in charity shops these days (especially the Portassed ones), even in the middle of nowhere, I have to make do with geeking out over LP covers.

So.

Look!! It’s Foale and Tuffin on the cover of a naff Gilbert O’Sullivan covers album (the back cover credits the photo to Pimm’s so it must be from the aforementioned Pimm’s and Tuffin shoot).

Look!! It’s Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey!!! On a Hammond Party Album!!

More to come when I find them…

Inspirational Images: Stripy Oliver and a mesh panel Varon

jean varon, john bates, oliver reed, sixties

I am dying of envy over here. She has a mesh panel Jean Varon LBD and a stripy Oliver Reed with his sexy paws all over her. Lucky lucky lucky…..

Photo by Hans Feurer. Vogue, April 1968. Via the amazing Youthquakers site.

Put some Vintage-a-Peel into your Autumn wardrobe….

bus stop, catherine buckley, forbidden fruit, frank usher, janice wainwright, john bates, kiki byrne, lee bender, sixties, strawberry studio, wallis, website listings
Janice Wainwright


Ongoing, as ever, but I’ve put up some new listings over at Vintage-a-Peel for your delectation. Two things have already sold (hurrah for me and my gorgeous buyers, not so hurrah if you wanted them, but there’s plenty more to come!) but there’s just a whole host of beautiful new pieces to choose from.

Forbidden Fruit

Jacqui Smale for Spectrum

Wallis Shops

Catherine Buckley

Frank Usher


Hang Ups, Too

Lee Bender for Bus Stop

unsigned 1970s moss crepe

Sportaville

Bridget at Strawberry Studio

Yvonne Jacovou at Cornelius

Pret-a-Porter


unsigned 1930s


John Bates for Jean Varon

Kiki Byrne

Byrne, baby, Byrne….

kiki byrne, king's road, sixties, website listings

My poor puns know no bounds. I’ve just listed some new items over at Vintage-a-Peel, but wanted to concentrate a blog on just one dress today. It’s as rare as it is beautiful.

There’s not a great deal of information out there on Kiki Byrne, but only a fool would underestimate her importance. Her King’s Road boutique Glass and Black was contemporaneous to Mary Quant’s Bazaar, and the few references around are extremely fond and complimentary about her clothing. She was heavily involved in the Chelsea scene in the Sixties, and her partner was iconic graphic designer Robert Brownjohn. Virginia Ironside’s book ‘Chelsea Girl’ references Byrne’s boutique thus:

We stumbled up the Kings Road back home. We looked, as usual, in Sportique and Kiki Byrne and said how pretty the clothes were, and was Kiki Byrne better than Bazaar.

This dress is a rare example of Byrne’s work, and is utterly representative of her style. She was known for elegant, wearable dresses and often used lace (as you can see in the photo below). This piece is a beauty in horizontal strips of peach lace, on a beige linen base, which are used to cleverly slim where they are stitched down around the waist and then loosen up into the skirt section. Very wearable and in remarkable condition for its age.


A typical Kiki dress.

Kiki and Robert. Isn’t she gorgeous??

Kiki is sitting just in front of Foale and Tuffin

Twiggy

bravo magazine, minis, sixties, twiggy

A couple of brilliant German adverts for the Twiggy clothing range. I love that Ban-Lon is ‘Bani-Lon’, but Crimplene is hideous Crimplene in any language…

Both are from Bravo, May and October 1968 respectively.


(p.s I still have an über rare Twiggy-labelled dress for sale over at Vintage-a-Peel)

Cardboard Soul

bravo magazine, The Beatles

Failure to capture The Beatles for prop-related shenanigans? That bloody Rigg woman must have tipped them off. Kein problem…. Just stick some cardboard cut-outs amongst the random prop department and no one will notice the difference. Genius!
(May I just repeat how much I LOVE Bravo magazine? I might just have to dedicate this blogging week to its glory…)

Bravo, Diana. Bravo!

bravo magazine, diana rigg, emma peel, sixties
Little does she realise…

I love Bravo magazine with a passion. I became acquainted with its strange ways during my aforementioned period of Diana Rigg-collecting; they seem to have specialised in abducting international stars of screen and music, shoving them in a studio and surrounding them with one of the weirdest collections of props I have ever seen.
Diana seems to have done some of the strangest, and this celebration of her Riggness (in honour of her winning something called a Golden Otto) is brilliantly bonkers. Some are pretty self-explanatory, some are pretty and some are….indescribable. Enjoy!
Diana likes antiques. But she’s a bit scared of breaking them, so she sits very still.
Diana is very politically incorrect. But she manages it with panache.
Diana and the ‘men in her life’? Top is, I’m guessing, her father. Top right is Philip Saville, her partner at the time. He was still married and they were very open about their relationship.
Diana is a very, very bad girl. (See above)
Diana grows her own.
Diana likes to sail…in very flimsy boats.
Diana is a goddess. But we already knew this.
Diana has a poodle called Poopie. This isn’t him (I hope).
Awwwww…..
Diana likes to travel (Dressed like a spy. Of course).
You can’t read her p-p-poker face.
Please tell my management, I’ve been kidnapped by this German magazine. Help!!!