Love Forty

1960s, Berkertex, Daniel Hechter, Foale and Tuffin, George Malyard, Graham Smith, helmut newton, Inspirational Images, Ken Lane, Malyard, Marlborough, mary quant, Queen magazine, Rayne, Vintage Editorials
White crepe dress by Berkertex. Jewelled snood by Graham Smith.

The clothes of the Thirties were capricious, narcissistic and extravagant — the jazz of the Twenties turning soft, like swing – but with the wartime Forties they necessarily became austere and functional.

To compensate, the details kept their extravagance – shirred waists, sweetheart necks, floppy sleeves, Veronica Lake hair.

On this and the following pages we have a minor Forties revival – minor because these clothes are strictly 1968, when women want to dress both practically and frivolously.

I do not endorse this copy, because I would not agree about the clothes of the Thirties being ‘narcissistic’, but I do endorse the photos and the clothes.

Photographed by Helmut Newton.

Scanned from Queen, July 31st 1968.

Red crepe dress by Foale and Tuffin. Hat by Malyard.
Red wool crepe dress by Foale and Tuffin. Gilt snake bracelets by Ken Lane.
Black crepe dress by Daniel Hechter for Bagatel. Beret by Malyard. Shoes by Rayne.
Grey crepe dress by Harriet.
Black checked beige crepe dress with bloused sleeveless top, by Marlborough. Black beret by Mary Quant for Kangol.

Just Jane

19 magazine, 1970s, Chelsea Antiques Market, countdown, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, jane birkin, jinty, laura ashley, Marlborough, mia and vicky, Michael Berkofsky, quorum, Serge Gainsbourg, Sujon
Peasant-style dress in a multi-coloured patchwork print has a gathered elasticised waistline and short full sleeves, by Marlborough, £9.

It looks as if England has lost Jane Birkin forever … she is firmly entrenched in Paris with baby Kate, nanny and the lovely Serge Gainsbourg, living in sombre luxury in their newly acquired house. The interior is stark and dramatic, every room is decorated in black and white, with white doors and black marble floors or carpet. The furniture is also black and white—there’s a big black shiny piano in the lounge, and a black mink cover adorns the bed which is raised off the floor on a black perspex dais. Weekends are usually spent at a quiet retreat in the country, making a sharp contrast to the busy social life that they lead during the week. Since Jane landed in France she has never stopped working. Film after film has been completed and the success of the record she made with Serge, which was also written and composed by him, Je T’Aime … Moi Non Plus, has led to an LP also written by Serge. Her life is chaotic and busy, it seems as if the telephone never stops ringing. People phone her every day with offers of interviews and films, the next of which is still a closely guarded secret. It was whilst she was making her first film in France, Slogan, that she met and fell in lovewith Serge, an event which seems to have altered her life but through it all she remains the same—a waif of a girl, tall and lanky, in pullover and jeans, serving tea out of her treasured English teapot. Her wardrobe is noticeably small, consisting mainly of casual clothes like pullovers, T-shirts and jeans; with the occasional gipsy-type dress reserved for the evening and worn with gold chains, loop earrings and gipsy belts. She acquires most of her clothes by chance buying, rarely by intentionally setting out on a spending spree. Usually she just spots something she likes in a shop window and ends up by going in and buying it. In London she shops mainly at Countdown, Foale and Tuffin, and Quorum. She buys her jewellery from the Chelsea Antique Market. In Paris she favours the more trendy designers like Mia and Vicky or Jean Bourquin. Jane is perfectly happy spending hours hunting about in antique shops for interesting little knick-knacks, like the 18th-century doll’s house which she gave to her Serge for Christmas.

Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1970.

Yellow ochre and beige printed full skirt has matching shawl and a crêpe bolero top, by Marlborough, £9 10s.
Ankle-length dress in brown and white printed cotton has a shirred bodice and sleeves gathered into a cuff, by Laura Ashley, approx. £5.
Long brown and white printed cotton voile skirt is prettily trimmed with white satin ribbon and has a matching bolero top, by Sujon, 11 gns.
Sheer rayon chiffon midi-length dress in a lovely muted purple has a bloused top and a flesh-coloured half slip, by Jinty, £8 15s.

In a Little Spanish Town

19 magazine, 1970s, Bermona, Brosseau, bus stop, Dolcis, Feathers, Foale and Tuffin, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, Jean Charles Brosseau, John Bishop, Jolly Boy, kensington market, lee bender, ravel, Rosie Nice, Sacha, Sujon, terry de havilland, Tony Berkeley, Tony Berkley, Vintage Editorials, Willy van Rooy
Long creamy cotton dress by Foale and Tuffin. Blue cotton paisley blouse and skirt by Foale and Tuffin. Embroidered woollen belt around head by Rosie Nice in Kensington Market.

Sunny Spain conjured up visions of hot summer days in picturesque surroundings, ideal settings for 19’s summer fashions. And we had a fantastic oppotunity when 4S Travel arranged a trip to Malaga and Torremolinos. We flew BUA Super Jet to stay at the Hotel Al Andalus, within easy reach of the mountains overlooking the Costa del Sol. Here we discovered quaint villages, sun-drenched and white-washed, their customs and dress crystallised in the past. No cars to be seen, only mules and donkeys. Our clothes echoed the feel of these places – colours stark black and white, brightened with touches of gayer hues, clean hot printed cottons, soft peasant blouses, sandals, light fishnet shawls, casual sun hats. The garments are easy to take care of, and enhance a tan – midi skirts that button to above the knee and give alluring glimpses of brown thigh, and large brightly printed squares of fabric which can be used as shawls, or skirts tied at the side.

Making me yearn for a proper holiday. The closest I’ll get is looking at this editorial whilst sitting on the balcony, trying to avoid all humans for the time being. I hope it brightens your day as well…

Blonde model is Willy van Rooy.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1970.

Black velour towelling dress by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Shawl by J. C. Brosseau from Feathers. Green and red snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland from Jolly Boy in Kensington Market. Belt bought locally.
Black and white cototn printed skirt and top by Tony Berkeley. Shawl from J. C. Brosseau. Shoes by Sacha.
White cotton skirt, blouse and bolero all by Annie for Rosie Nice in Kensington Market. Bright red and green dress by Foale and Tuffin. Black fishnet shawls by J. C. Brosseau from Feathers.
White towelling hat by Bermona. Dress by Sujon. Shoes from Ravel.
Dress by Tony Berkeley. White patent shoes by Sacha.
Dusty pink skirt and blouse by Ian Batten. Brown felt hat by J. C. Brosseau from Feathers.
Both outfits by Tony Berkeley. Both pairs of shoes by Ravel.
Dress by Foale and Tuffin. Snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland at Jolly Boy. Belt bought locally.
White midi skirt by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Red and white silk rayon blouse by Annie for Rosie Nice. Mock snakeskin shoes by Dolcis.

Foale and Tuffin

1970s, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, Peter Knapp, Vogue
Liberty print cotton shirt and pinafore by Foale and Tuffin.

Photographed by Peter Knapp.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1971.

The Prettiest Prints

1970s, baccarat, caroline charles, Colin Glascoe, Foale and Tuffin, Ginger Group, Harrods, Inspirational Images, Jeany, Kati at Laura Phillips, Liza Spain, mary quant, mr fish, Peter Saunders Catalogue, Vintage Editorials, Woman's Journal
Two of summer’s new romantics, long, loose and floating in Sanghaneri Jaipur voile. Both by Colin Glascoe.

Bunches of summer flowers; delicate patterns and prints; and myriad beautiful shades are the ingredients. Mixed to perfection, they make up this – the prettiest mélange of summer dresses.

Photographed by Jeany.

Hair styles by Susi at Violet Adair.

Scanned from Woman’s Journal, July 1971.

Left: Scoop neck dress of Liberty printed cotton Right: Skirt and long sleeved blouse in Liberty printed cotton, worn with long reversible turncoat. All from Foale and Tuffin.
:eft: Exclusive Rajistani Jaipur hand printed dress on cotton voile from the Peter Saunders Catalogue. Right: Flowered cotton dress by Kati at Laura Phillips.
Long midi skirt and bolero of smoothest cotton velvet provide the perfect setting of this exquisite hand embroidered tapestry designed exclusively for Woman’s Journal. Available from the Art and Needlework Department at Harrods. Full sleeved organza blouse with deep buttoned cuffs by Mr Fish.
Sharply tailored suiy in grey and white Jacquard. The blouse, soft and full, with gathered sleeves and neckline, pours from beneath the jacket into delicate ruffles. By Baccarat.
Left: Spotted pinafore dress of silk over soft, white blouse with full sleeves, by Caroline Charles. Right: Close-fitting midi in sheer cotton voile by Mary Quant Ginger Group.
Both dresses by Liza Spain.

WHAT KIND OF GIRL ARE YOU?

19 magazine, 1960s, alistair cowin, annacat, biba, bus stop, celia birtwell, Daniel Hechter, Foale and Tuffin, fulham road clothes shop, guy and elizabeth, hung on you, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, Lawrence Corner, lee bender, liberty, liberty's, lilley and skinner, Maxwell Croft, ossie clark, Pierre D'Alby, quorum, ravel, Roger Nelson, Ronald Keith, sally levison, Stephanie Farrow, Susan Handbags, sylvia ayton, wallis, Weathergay, zandra rhodes
Cancer: Long Victorian styled dress with high neck in coffee cotton lace trimmed with white, by Annacat, 25gns.

Whether you believe in star signs or not, this lovely editorial is certainly fun to browse. Pretty happy with my Cancerian Annacat dress, modelled by Stephanie Farrow, but greatly envy the Aries and Scorpio threads.

(Also, please don’t shout at me about the furs. I don’t like them either but it would be weird to leave out Leo and Aquarius. Just pretend they’re fake…)

Photographed by Guy and Elizabeth

Scanned from 19 Magazine, January 1969.

Leo: Red fox knee length coat by Maxwell Croft, 259gns. Red wig from Beyond The Fringe.
Virgo: White jersey dress with brown snakeskin shoulders and belt by Sylvia Ayton and Zandra Rhodes, approx 8gns. Mottled chiffon scarf from Liberty. Brown leather boots by Lilley and Skinner, £6 19s. 6d.
Libra: Long brown crepe dresswith medieval claret-coloured velvet sleeves by Roger Nelson at 94, 9gns.
Scorpio: Metallic blue leather jacket with zip front by Ossie Clark for Quorum, 25gns. Chiffon scarf by Biba, 18s. Red jersey trousers by Wallis, £3 19s 11d. Leather boots by Lilley and Skinner.
Sagittarius: Fake horse jacket with leather elbows and trim, by Daniel Hechter for Weathergay 15gns. Herringbone trousers by Alistair Cowin at Grade One, £3 19s. 6d. Beige ribbed sweater 4½gns. Matching beret, 39s 11d. Both by Sally Levison Originals.
Capricorn: Beige rayon crepe trouser suit by Foale and Tuffin, 20½gns. Pink chiffon scarf by Biba, 18s 9d. Brown leather brogues by Ronald Keith, 6gns.
Aquarius: Maxi fur coat by Barbara Warner for Fab Furs, 150gns. Black hat by Biba, 25s. Worn underneath, black maxi jersey dress with snakeskin waistband by Sylvia Ayton and Zandra Rhodes, approx 8gns.
Pisces: Beautifully cut white raincoat by Foale and Tuffin, 16½gns. Boots to order by Ravel Studio, 19gns.
Aries: Brown suede fringed waistcoat, £7, with matching printed moccasins, £2. From Hung On You. Deep red satin blouse by Biba, £2 15s 6d. Brown cord trousers by Alistair Cowin at Grade One, 5gns. Narrow headscarf by Celia Birtwell for Quorum, 1gn.
Taurus: Blue rayon georgette, high-waisted dress with baby ribbon trim by John Bates for Jean Varon, 13gns.
Gemini: Green army surplus hat, 9s. 9d., and beige jacket, 11s. 9d., both from Lawrence Corner. Beige gabardine knickerbocker suit, by Pierre D’Alby, 14gns. Brown stockings from Mary Davies, 35s. Brown leather brogues by Ronald Keith, 6gns. Shetland Fair Isle beret, 25s. and scarf, 29s. 11d. by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Leather shoulder bag by Susan Handbags, 7gns.

If All The World Were Summer

1970s, Amir Scorpio, biba, Buckle Under, crowthers, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Jonvelle, Just Jane, medusa, stirling cooper, Sujon, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Far left: White cotton sailor shirt from Medusa. Tomato and white gingham dirndl by Just Jane. Panama hat by Buckle Under. Near left: Grass green and white gingham shirt over full green and red gingham skirt by Stirling Cooper. Straw hat from Crowthers. Men’s cream shirts throughout by Jeff Banks.

…Then dressing’s a picnic. All these nice new laundered clothes and country girls from Colette stories out in the green fields under blue Provençal skies, with wine and fruit and flowers.

Photographed by Jonvelle.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971

Creamy cheesecloth smock and skirt by Amir Scorpio. Hat by Buckle Under.
Smock of field plains, flower or spot prints, ruched and loose over bias skirt of buttercup crepe de chine at Universal Witness. Black straw hat from a range at Van der Fransen.
Near right: Flowering crepe de chine blouse by Sujon. Fully gathered emerald cotton skirt by Just Jane. Straw hat from Buckle Under. Far right: Black and red and brilliant Liberty mixtures gathered in frills and flounces by Foale and Tuffin. Flower and suede belts by Buckle Under.
Sky cotton blouse with red buttons, red stitching and long blue skirt by Sujon. Blue suede belt by Buckle Under. Black hat from Van der Fransen.
Cotton lawn smock in primary patches by Foale and Tuffin. Panama by Buckle Under. Clogs from Biba.

The Spirit of Christmas

19 magazine, 1970s, alistair cowin, biba, charlotte martin, Elliott, Feathers, Foale and Tuffin, gillian richard, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, Leslie Poole, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials
Silk lace dress with boxer shorts underneath by Poole at Shape. Shoes by Biba. Choker and fake violets from John Lewis.

Rich renaissance colours in velvet, lace and crepe reflect the mood for Christmas. Emphasis is on the shape of the body – necklines plunge, backs are bared, and skirts are slit in a demure, but wanton, fashion.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1970.

Crepe dress in black, mauve and green by Alistair Cowin. Shoes from Biba.
Plum silk lace wrap over blouse with matching waist ties by Poole at Shape. Gored skirt in deep green velvet by Foale and Tuffin. Shoes from Biba.
Charcoal green dress and crepe shoes all from Biba.
Velvet cap from Feathers. Veiling from John Lewis. Crepe dress by Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Elliott.
Lilac velvet cap from Feathers. Blue Tricel wrap over top and flared skirt both by Poole at Shape. Shoes from Biba.
Brown, beige and rust panne velvet dress by Gillian Richard. Black shoes by Elliott.


The Great Coats

19 magazine, 1970s, Angela at London Town, biba, bus stop, charlotte martin, Daniel Hechter, Dolcis, Feathers, Foale and Tuffin, gladrags, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, Leslie Poole, Marielle, ossie clark, quorum, Russell & Bromley, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay

great coats 1

Black panne velvet hat from Feathers. Exotic black floor length beaver-look Borg fur fabric coat by Ossie Clark at Quorum.

The title of this editorial reminds me of being in Dublin earlier this year. Just arrived, walking along trying to find our hotel, I was wearing a Seventies brown nappa leather trench coat (it was February and freezing). A girl strode past and without pausing to wait for a reaction or looking me in the eye she just said ‘Great coat’ and carried on walking. I decided I loved Dublin right there and then.

This spread features the stunning Charlotte Martin and was photographed in Austria. I’m still in love with my brown leather trench coat but I wouldn’t say no if any of these coats (particularly that Quorum stunner above) were to land in my lap this winter…

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1970.

great coats 2

Black panne velvet hat by Feathers. Long chocolate jersey top with tight buttoned cuffs. Grey and rust mock Gonk shoulder cape. Both from Biba.

great coats 3

Hat from Feathers. Dark brown and black Forties-style mock chipmunk jacket with self tie belt. Black wool pants with turn ups. Both from Biba. Wet-look boots from Dolcis.

great coats 4

Plum Borg-lined jacket with leather elbow patches and trimmings by Daniel Hechter of Paris. Green barathea midi skirt by Gladrags. Tan leather leace up boots from Russell and Bromley.

great coats 5

Plum felt hat from Feathers. Pure wool shirt. Skirt in different prints panels of pure wool. Pure wool paisley printed waistcoat lined with fake fur. All by Foale and Tuffin. Browny-plum wet look lace-up boots from Dolcis.

great coats 6

Brown felt hat from Feathers. Brown Borg zip-front coat with tie belt by Marielle. Brown lace up boots by Dolcis.

great coats 7

Mock hamster pull on hat from Biba. Chocolate Shetland sweater by Hogg of Hawick. Suede gauchos from Bus Stop. Mock hamster wrap over coat from Biba. Lace up boots from Dolcis. // Mock hamster pull on hat from Biba. Black crepe shirt by Poole at Shape. Mock hamster belted jacket from Biba. Black velvet gauchos from Bus Stop. Lace up boots from Dolcis.

great coats 8

Mid brown Shetland sweater by Hogg of Hawick. Chocolate Borg-backed fly fronted jersey jacket with hood, cuffs and patch pockets by Weathergay. Black jersey knickerbockers with bootslace ties by Angela at London Town. Brown wet look boots by Dolcis.

great coats 9

Brown panne velvet hat from Feathers. Chocolate Shetland poloneck sweater by Hogg of Hawick. Suede gaucho pants from Bus Stop. Brown striped hooded floor length wool coat lined with fur fabric by Foale and Tuffin. Belt from Bus Stop.

Go to a party

1960s, Adrian Mann, Anne Tyrrell, bernard freres, Club 92, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, kleptomania, Paul Orssich, paulene stone, Rhona Roy, Simpson of Piccadilly, Sujon, take 6, thea porter, Tommy Roberts, Uncategorized, vanity fair, Vintage Editorials

go to a party 1

Wonderful in white… snowy crepe, sleeves long and ringed with Irish thread work. By John Bates at Jean Varon. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Man’s shirt to order from Thea Porter.

Photographed by Paul Orssich.

Scanned from Vanity Fair, November 1968.

go to a party 2

Glamorously Grecian… pure white crepe, beautifully braided. By Young Ideas at Rhona Roy. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Man’s black braided suit is from Just Men.

go to a party 3

Beautiful in black seductive plunging rayon jersey. By Foale and Tuffin. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Shoes by Lilley and Skinner. Man’s evening suit and shirt all from Take 6.

go to a party 4

Stunning in satin… timeless dress as bewitching as a glimmer of midnight. By Bernard Freres. Man’s velvet jacket from Take 6. Man’s be-ruffled shirt from Kleptomania.

go to a party 5

Perfect in pink… sugared almond crepe falling soft to the wrist and waist. Designed by Anne Tyrrell at John Marks. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Man’s red velvet jacket and silk scarf from Trend at Simpson.

go to a party 6

Reassured in red. Skimmy shaped wool crepe party-goer cut away at the shoulders. By Sujon. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Man’s evening suit and polo shirt both from Club 92.