WHAT KIND OF GIRL ARE YOU?

19 magazine, 1960s, alistair cowin, annacat, biba, bus stop, celia birtwell, Daniel Hechter, Foale and Tuffin, fulham road clothes shop, guy and elizabeth, hung on you, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, Lawrence Corner, lee bender, liberty, liberty's, lilley and skinner, Maxwell Croft, ossie clark, Pierre D'Alby, quorum, ravel, Roger Nelson, Ronald Keith, sally levison, Stephanie Farrow, Susan Handbags, sylvia ayton, wallis, Weathergay, zandra rhodes
Cancer: Long Victorian styled dress with high neck in coffee cotton lace trimmed with white, by Annacat, 25gns.

Whether you believe in star signs or not, this lovely editorial is certainly fun to browse. Pretty happy with my Cancerian Annacat dress, modelled by Stephanie Farrow, but greatly envy the Aries and Scorpio threads.

(Also, please don’t shout at me about the furs. I don’t like them either but it would be weird to leave out Leo and Aquarius. Just pretend they’re fake…)

Photographed by Guy and Elizabeth

Scanned from 19 Magazine, January 1969.

Leo: Red fox knee length coat by Maxwell Croft, 259gns. Red wig from Beyond The Fringe.
Virgo: White jersey dress with brown snakeskin shoulders and belt by Sylvia Ayton and Zandra Rhodes, approx 8gns. Mottled chiffon scarf from Liberty. Brown leather boots by Lilley and Skinner, £6 19s. 6d.
Libra: Long brown crepe dresswith medieval claret-coloured velvet sleeves by Roger Nelson at 94, 9gns.
Scorpio: Metallic blue leather jacket with zip front by Ossie Clark for Quorum, 25gns. Chiffon scarf by Biba, 18s. Red jersey trousers by Wallis, £3 19s 11d. Leather boots by Lilley and Skinner.
Sagittarius: Fake horse jacket with leather elbows and trim, by Daniel Hechter for Weathergay 15gns. Herringbone trousers by Alistair Cowin at Grade One, £3 19s. 6d. Beige ribbed sweater 4½gns. Matching beret, 39s 11d. Both by Sally Levison Originals.
Capricorn: Beige rayon crepe trouser suit by Foale and Tuffin, 20½gns. Pink chiffon scarf by Biba, 18s 9d. Brown leather brogues by Ronald Keith, 6gns.
Aquarius: Maxi fur coat by Barbara Warner for Fab Furs, 150gns. Black hat by Biba, 25s. Worn underneath, black maxi jersey dress with snakeskin waistband by Sylvia Ayton and Zandra Rhodes, approx 8gns.
Pisces: Beautifully cut white raincoat by Foale and Tuffin, 16½gns. Boots to order by Ravel Studio, 19gns.
Aries: Brown suede fringed waistcoat, £7, with matching printed moccasins, £2. From Hung On You. Deep red satin blouse by Biba, £2 15s 6d. Brown cord trousers by Alistair Cowin at Grade One, 5gns. Narrow headscarf by Celia Birtwell for Quorum, 1gn.
Taurus: Blue rayon georgette, high-waisted dress with baby ribbon trim by John Bates for Jean Varon, 13gns.
Gemini: Green army surplus hat, 9s. 9d., and beige jacket, 11s. 9d., both from Lawrence Corner. Beige gabardine knickerbocker suit, by Pierre D’Alby, 14gns. Brown stockings from Mary Davies, 35s. Brown leather brogues by Ronald Keith, 6gns. Shetland Fair Isle beret, 25s. and scarf, 29s. 11d. by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Leather shoulder bag by Susan Handbags, 7gns.

Living up to a reputation

1970s, Alice Ormsby-Gore, amanda lear, Asha Puthli, bill gibb, british boutique movement, christopher mcdonnell, frederick fox, ika hindley, Inspirational Images, jean muir, jean varon, joanna lumley, john bates, mary quant, pat cleveland, Sally McLaughlan, telegraph magazine, Terence Donovan, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, zandra rhodes

For some years now the London fashion designers have had the edge on their Paris rivals for ideas and innovations. Tomorrow evening a film on this subject will be shown on BBC1. Today we photograph the key London designers with their favourite clothes. What do they think of the London fashion scene? Where do we go from here?

Photographed by Terence Donovan. Fashion by Cherry Twiss.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, May 25th 1973.

Zandra Rhodes originally trained as a textile designer; she began designing clothes in 1968. She does not have her own retail shop; her fabulous creations are made to order and sell through the big stores. “I think fashion in London is like a sea with lots of little islands, lots of different looks. I am my own couture island,” she says. “I don’t like committing myself to any one collection. I like adding to it as my ideas come along.” Pat Cleveland, top American model, is wearing Zandra’s “off-the-shoulder lily dress” .of printed grey and cream chiffon with satin-backed bodice and embroidery. From Piero de Monzi, 70 Fulham Road, SW3.
Mary Quant, photographed with her husband Alexander Plunkett-Green, became famous in 1955 when she opened the first “Bazaar” shop in the King’s Road, Chelsea. Now her business includes linen, make-up, tights and dolls as well as clothes, all bearing the unmistakable Quant touch. Of current London fashion she says: “I think the mood is classic, and I love it.” Amanda, a model who typifies Mary’s look, wears trousers, striped pullover and co-ordinating jacket, all in an angora and polyester mixture, and a pure silk shirt. Mary chose this outfit because “it is the epitome of my new collection -the best of everything. Modern classics in the right colours, subtle soft fabrics, elegance, chic – the sort of outfit you want to live in.” From Mary Quant’s new autumn collection, available in September.
Designer Jean Muir with Harry Lockart, her husband and business manager. She started the firm which bears her name in 1966; her distinctive clothes are available at all the major stores. Says Harry Lockart: “The London fashion scene has tremendous potential and on the design side is moving marvellously. It must need organising very professionally along Paris lines, with proper collection weeks, at times that do not clash, so that buyers can see everything.” Joanna Lumley is wearing an olive green two-tiered silk jersey dress described by Jean as “one of my favourites”. About £75 from Lucienne Phillips, 69 Knightsbridge, SW3, or Brown’s, South Molton Street, W1 . Jade necklace by Jean Muir, £15. Shoes, £24, by Charles Jourdan, 47 Brompton Road, SW3. Tights, Elle.
Designer John Bates (left) with John Siggins, Director who handles Publicity, Press and External Contracts. John Bates started the firm of Jean Varon in 1959; he thinks that “fashion in London is no different from anywhere else; but it is only just recently that it has been taken seriously”. Kellie, who is one of John Bates’s favourite models, is wearing a Tricel surah dress in a print by Sally McLaughlan exclusive to John Bates. About £55 from Dickins & Jones, Regent Street, W1 ; Barkers, Kensing-ton High Street, W8; Bentalls of Kingston; Kendal Milne of Manchester. Hat made to order by Frederick Fox, 26 Brook Street, W1.
Christopher McDonnell started his career early in 1967 and now sells his designs at his famous shop in South Molton Street. He thinks London is the most exciting place for evening wear, “but until the factories learn how to cope technically with good ideas for day clothes, the rest of Europe will remain ahead of us in this field.” The model is Ika, who, says Christopher, can interpret any look. She is wearing a cream silk suit with short skirt, £33 from Christopher McDonnell, 45 South Molton Street, W1 . White silk turban £9.50 from George Malyard, 3 King Street, WI. Bangles and choker from Emeline, 45 Beauchamp Place, SW3.
Designer Bill Gibb started out on his own in 1969 and was voted “Designer of the Year” in 1970. He now has a wholesale firm, and in fashion feels that “everybody makes a different sort of contribution”. Asha Puthli, singer and actress is wearing a peach double satin jacket and halter top embroidered and edged with black leather, and Lurex pleated skirt. About £200 from Chic of Hampstead, Heath Street, NW3, or Chases, Bond Street, Wl. Shoes £14.95 by Chelsea Cobbler, 33 Sackville Street, W1 . Tights by Echo. Alice Ormsby-Gore is wearing a plain and printed grey Lurex skirt and sequin embroidered top, £128. Turban by Diane Logan to order. All from Lucienne Phillips, or ZigZag, 100 New Bond Street, Wl. Shoes £14.95 from Chelsea Cobbler. Tights by Echo.

Go to a party

1960s, Adrian Mann, Anne Tyrrell, bernard freres, Club 92, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, kleptomania, Paul Orssich, paulene stone, Rhona Roy, Simpson of Piccadilly, Sujon, take 6, thea porter, Tommy Roberts, Uncategorized, vanity fair, Vintage Editorials

go to a party 1

Wonderful in white… snowy crepe, sleeves long and ringed with Irish thread work. By John Bates at Jean Varon. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Man’s shirt to order from Thea Porter.

Photographed by Paul Orssich.

Scanned from Vanity Fair, November 1968.

go to a party 2

Glamorously Grecian… pure white crepe, beautifully braided. By Young Ideas at Rhona Roy. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Man’s black braided suit is from Just Men.

go to a party 3

Beautiful in black seductive plunging rayon jersey. By Foale and Tuffin. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Shoes by Lilley and Skinner. Man’s evening suit and shirt all from Take 6.

go to a party 4

Stunning in satin… timeless dress as bewitching as a glimmer of midnight. By Bernard Freres. Man’s velvet jacket from Take 6. Man’s be-ruffled shirt from Kleptomania.

go to a party 5

Perfect in pink… sugared almond crepe falling soft to the wrist and waist. Designed by Anne Tyrrell at John Marks. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Man’s red velvet jacket and silk scarf from Trend at Simpson.

go to a party 6

Reassured in red. Skimmy shaped wool crepe party-goer cut away at the shoulders. By Sujon. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Man’s evening suit and polo shirt both from Club 92.

The Long, Lean Look: Smocking

1970s, flair magazine, Inspirational Images, jean varon, jim lee, john bates, Uncategorized

Smocking

Elegant full length dinner dress in champagne Trevira with a matching tie belt, the yoke and shoulders lavishly oversmocked in bright colours. By John Bates at Jean Varon, £23.

Photographed by Jim Lee.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Flair, February 1970

The Evening After Summer’s End

1960s, guy bourdin, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, thea porter, Vogue

guy bourdin vogue october 1969

Turban £50, skull cap £6, at Thea Porter. Pearls, Paris House. Blouse by John Bates for Jean Varon

Photographed by Guy Bourdin.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, October 1969.

Charlotte Rampling by Hans Feurer

19 magazine, 1960s, charlotte rampling, hans feurer, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, Lizzie Carr, Vintage Editorials

charlotte rampling - 19 - Hans Feurer - 1

Plunge-necked green shaded Trice! crepe dress, by John Bates for Jean Varon, approx. 14gns.

What is she really like? Very much a domesticated and warm-hearted girl, she is preparing to set up home with the man she loves. Although she usually favours clothes collected from Antique supermarkets, 19 chose these daringly-cut dresses to emphasise the underlying tiger in her make-up.

At twenty-three, and with five feature films to her credit, Miss Charlotte Rampling is now engaged in what is seemingly her most important project to date – setting up residence in a fashionable Westminster two-storey house with film-maker Tommy Weber, and his two shaggy-haired sons, Jake, aged nearly six, and Charlie, aged four.
Charlotte has been with Tommy for a year now, and when his divorce comes through, they plan to marry. Charlotte feels this will be ‘mostly for the children’s and my parents’ sake’.

She returned to England from Madrid four years ago, when she received her first film offer, landing a starring role in a Boulting Brothers comedy, Rotten To The Core. Following this movie, Charlotte appeared as Meredith, the super-shrew of Georgy Girl – and probably produced the totally misconceived image as a girl much like the one she played.

Charlotte describes Meredith as a real bitch’ of Georgy she says; “She was pathetic, but two-faced – not an admirable character.” Lyn Redgrave, however, was ‘absolutely beautiful’, and the film set was a happy one.

Charlotte has recently completed two films; Three, directed by Jim Salter, from an Irwin Shaw story, is spoken of with less than relish. What apparently started out as a free, flowing movie about three students bumming their may across Europe, ended up as a contused, under-budgeted affair, in which the hardships outnumbered the freedom.

Her most satisfying film to date, The Damned, is still being shot under the direction of Italy’s Luchino Visconti and she feels this was an invaluable experience. It is the story of the Krupp family, who rose to power in Hitler’s Germany.

Charlotte Rampling is now in the enviable position of having completed a major role, and possessing the chance to choose what she wants for the future.

Photographed by Hans Feurer.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, May 1969.

charlotte rampling - 19 - Hans Feurer - 2

Ribbon-trimmed plunge-necked blue shaded Tricel crepe dress, by John Bates for Jean Varon, approx. 13gns.

charlotte rampling - 19 - Hans Feurer - 3

Culotte dress in shaded beige to bream 7-ricel crepe, with tiny bodice and trans-parent nylon organza back, by John Bates for Jean Varon, approx. £17 6s. 6d. Gold sandals, by Ronald Keith, 5gns.

charlotte rampling - 19 - Hans Feurer - 4

Silk jersey black tie top and layered skirt, by Lizzy Carr, approx. 71/2gns. each.

Believe it or not, this is rainwear

1960s, anello and davide, annacat, biba, burt glinn, charles jourdan, cherry twiss, Herbert Johnson, Hilary Floyd, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, old england, ossie clark, susan small, telegraph magazine, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 1

Showerproof cotton drill jodhpur suit by Biba. Fake snakeskin hat by Herbert Johnson. Black crocodile boots by Anello & Davide.

Since PVC, macs have been exotic… now the real exotics are turning waterproof. Weekend Telegraph photographed some of the unlikely new water-shedders in Jamaica, beside the Rio Grnde and in the Land of Look Behind.

Photographed by Burt Glinn.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Telegraph Magazine, July 1967.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67

A PVC zip-up jumpsuit by Hilary Floyd modelled in Dunn’s River, Jamaica. Watch by Old England.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 2

Waterproof pigskin culottes by Cordoba Suedewear. Silk shirt by Annacat. Snakeskin waistcoat by Quorum.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 3

Hand knitted bikini by Spotlight. Trenchcoat by Weathergay.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 4

Showerproof cotton drill bermuda suit by Biba. Mock croc hat by Herbert Johnson.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 5

Canvas jacket by Andre Ledoux for Sidwall.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 6

Waterproof snakeskin brocade three-piece trouser suit by Susan Small. Crocodile Dior shoes by Charles Jourdan.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 7

Terylene and cotton cloak and hood by Burberrys. Tricel jersey evening dress and scarf by John Bates for Jean Varon.

Stars of the ’70s

19 magazine, 1930s, 1970s, bus stop, greta garbo, Illustrations, Inspirational Images, jean varon, joan crawford, john bates, lee bender, marlene dietrich, michael roberts, valstar, Weathergay

stars-of-the-70s-1

Camoflage raincoat by Valstar

Rainwear has definitely taken on a new look. The styles are more sophisticated and glamorous. They are the kind of clothes that Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo would have worn had they been designed earlier. When you invest in a raincoat these days it does not mean that you can, or should, wear it only on a rainy day. A garment that is waterproof, wind-proof and warm can be worn almost every day. The new raincoats are very practical and hardly crease. At the most they only need to be sponged with a damp cloth. So throw away that old plastic mac. ..and take a long, new look at what the Stars are wearing. 

Stunning editorial beautifully illustrated by the legendary Michael Roberts.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, October 1970.

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Rubberised cotton raincoat by Valstar

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Corduroy trench coat by Wethergay

stars-of-the-70s-4

Left: Gabardine raincoat by Lee Bender for Bus Stop / Right: Red, grey and olive check raincoat by Valstar

stars-of-the-70s-5

Midi raincoat by Valstar

stars-of-the-70s-6

Left: Polyurethane rain suit by John Bates for Jean Varon / Right: Brown polyurethane raincoat by Weathergay

Prints for Evening by Jim Lee

1970s, Adrian Mann, flair magazine, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, jean varon, jim lee, john bates, simon massey, Vintage Editorials

Photographed by Jim Lee. Scanned from Flair, February 1970.

Pastel printed close fitting dress with long, swinging peplum and matching fringed scarf by John Bates at Jean Varon. All jewellery by Adrien Mann.

Something of a dream combination for me, with two of my favourite designers, Janice Wainwright and John Bates, with one of my favourite photographers, Jim Lee. I don’t see Lee’s work often enough for my liking…

Photographed by Jim Lee.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Flair, February 1970.

Photographed by Jim Lee. Scanned from Flair, February 1970.

Left: Softest pastel printed jersey cardigan coat with white, slightly flared crepe pants by Janice Wainwright at Simon Massey. Scarf by Lida Ascher. Right: Sprawling flower-printed cardigan coat with matching pants by Janice Wainwright at Simon Massey

Spring flowers in every shade

1960s, david bailey, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, maudie james, Vogue

Spring Flowers in Every Shade - Bailey - Vogue - March 69

Fresh, fine and tiny on white. Two views of the new hooded dress, both lissom and long and framed in a froth of bright feathers. By John Bates at Jean Varon.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, March 1969.