Biba Cosmetics

1970s, biba, Hair and make-up, Honey Magazine, Make-up, Vintage Adverts

Sorry for the protracted absence over the past month. I realise I’m not the only one, but I have been experiencing serious fatigue from the events of the past year and I think the loss of Diana Rigg was some kind of final straw for me. I could see I was almost at the point of burning out and decided to take my foot off the pedal for a bit. But I get itchy fingers if I don’t scan for a while so I am gently starting up again, although it’s unlikely to be the same frequency as before. I’ve enjoyed the downtime too much and need to be careful with my mental health – as do we all!

I hope you’re all hanging in there ok, and that at the very least my archive has been of some distraction and enjoyment to you.

Biba cosmetics advert scanned from Honey, October 1971.

Necking

1970s, biba, Chester Martin, christa peters, Honey Magazine, ika hindley, Inspirational Images, Jacqmar, Jasper, jeff banks, John Dove and Molly White, novelty prints, Ronnie Stirling, stirling cooper, Turnbull & Asser, Vintage Editorials
Hollywood film star printed cotton satin shirt by John Dove and Molly White for Jasper. Pure silk herringbone tie by Turnbull and Asser.

These are the ties that go with the shirts that are all part of the big 40s revival. Floppy silky shirts with subtly embossed patterns, and ties and scarves galore; they can be tied in bows, pinned with brooches, loosely knotted or worn like the men do. In fact, as long as they trail elegantly down the front of your shirt you can wear these ties just any way you like.

As a dedicated fan of long silk scarves (and silky blouses, and novelty brooches in fact) I’m just taking this editorial as my one stop guide to getting dressed this autumn.

Photographed by Christa Peters.

Possibly modelled by Ika Hindley (it looks like her mouth).

Scanned from Honey, October 1971.

Striped embossed crepe de chine blouse by Ronnie Stirling at Stirling Cooper. Paisley silk scarf by Chester Martin. Cicada brooch from Biba.
Feathers crepe de chine blouse by Ronnie Stirling at Stirling Cooper. Long spotted silk scarf by Chester Martin.
Avocado green crepe de chine blouse with fern pattern by Ronnie Stirling at Stirling Cooper. Silk chevron kipper tie by Turnbull and Asser. Egyptian stock pin from Biba.
Wavy patterned jacquard shirt by Jeff Banks. Printed silk scarf by Chester Martin. Sea horse brooch from Biba.
Flower embossed chocolate brown jacquard shirt by Jeff Banks. Long silk art deco scarf by Jacqmar. Flying eagle brooch from Biba.

Cruising

1970s, Bernie & Clare, Charles Batten, Honey Magazine, monty coles, Sujon, Vintage Editorials
Fine knitted dirndl skirt, with matching cap-sleeved cardigan jacket and skimpy halter neck sun top, straw sun hat, all by Bernie & Clare for Hamilton Cruise.

Photographed by Monty Coles.

Scanned from Honey, May 1975.

Brightly striped fine knitted cotton skirt with elasticated waist, loose cardigan jacket, straw sun hat with cut out crown, all by Bernie & Clare for Hamilton Cruise. Lemon shawl tied as a sun top, from Biba.
Cornflower blue, yellow and white striped crepe de chine cardigan jacket, front pleated skirt and long scarf (tied as sun top) all from Sujon. White straw hat from Charles Batten.

Anarchists go their own sweet way

alice pollock, beauty, biba, gala, Hair and make-up, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Jill Harley, kari ann muller, Make-up, Steve Hiett

They break boring beauty traditions and riot lip colours go on eyes, eye colours go on lips. Upside down- Quite contrary. And why not? Make-up was getting so dreary. We just stuck to the rules and slicked warm colours—pink, amber, soft orange—on our mouths, and cool colours—grey, green, blue, brown—on our eyes. Till now. Till the anarchists started this new groove. Now things are happening. Putting on a face isn’t a daily chore to be done as quickly as possible. Make-up is something to enjoy. It’s art. Total fun. Total fantasy. After all, painting on warm mobile skin is so much more exciting than .cold fiat paper or canvas. Come, join the anarchy party and experiment with colour. Sit down this evening in front of a well-lit mirror, not the telly, and design surprise eyes.

Alice Pollock (top) says she would like to be invisible (can’t think why) and her favourite perfume is Chanel No. 5. She has tried every hair colour under the sun, including green, but she’s glad it’s her own shade now—”At least I know who I am when I wake up.” Every morning she washes it in the bath with Boots Herbal Shampoo, 2s. 11d. On her eye-lids she paints Leichner’s Ivory Stick No. 5, 5s. 3d., and then an arc of pale green under the brow and round along the cheek-bone. Her lip-colour is a mixture of the same Leichner stick and Christian Dior’s Sepia 61 lipstick, 15s.


Moon (centre left, whose real name is Constance Mullens and who was nicknamed after a South African cartoon character called Moon Mullens) wears Mary Quant’s Citrus Jeepers Peepers, 18s. 7d., on her eye-lids and a purple Caran D’ache water crayon all round the eyes to tone with her hair which is cleverly coloured mauve and butterscotch by Erik and styled by Herta at Vidal Sassoon, Grosvenor House; 01-629 2463. Her favourite perfume is jasmin and, asked what the most vital beauty product is, she said, “a razor.”


Gala Mitchell (centre right) is a beautifully original actress. You may have seen her before in Ken Russell’s television film about the Pre-Raphaelites. Her most treasured beauty product is lipstick. Here she’s wearing Biba’s purple lip-tint, 5s., with black liner round her mouth. She uses more of Revlon’s Natural Wonder Lid Liners, 17s. 6d., to paint intriguing black spots across part of her face to symbolise a veil, and then twists a string of blue curls, tinted by Erik, amongst her copper hair which she keeps in place with two ’40s tortoiseshell hair-combs.


Kari Ann Moller (bottom left) says she wants to look like the wicked witch in fairy tales, yet she loves cosy perfumes like Apple Blossom and Lily of the Valley (Coty’s Muguet des Bois Creamy Skin Parfum, 17s. 6d.), and she couldn’t live without Nivea. “I found an old purple crayon in my boyfriend’s car—he’s a painter—so I’m wearing purple with a dab of lipstick and Leichner silver sparklers on my eyes today, plus tart red lipstick by Elizabeth Arden.” Her soft ginger wig is by Ricci Burns, 151 Kings Rd., S.W.3.


Jill Harley (bottom right) never wears fake eyelashes now, she’s only interested in colour: Chrome stick by Leichner.. 5s. 3d., with Gait orange paint near the socket line and Dorothy Gray’s Light-Up Yellow lipstick, 11s. 6d., as a highlighter for her eyes. Woltz ltaliana’s pale green polish, Laguna, goes on her nails to match up with her pale green wellingtons. Instead of expensive face-shapers, she brushes on Miners’ Frosted Brown Powder Eye Shadow, 2s. 10d. For her lips, she mixes an old red lipstick with Boots 17 Shiny Brown Eye Shadow Stick, 2s. 6d.

Two of my favourite models + one of my favourite designers + some wild 1970 make-up = happy Liz.

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from Honey, September 1970.

Last Tango in Tijuana

1970s, antony price, che guevara, Dinah Adams, Dolcis, gillian richard, granny takes a trip, Herbert Johnson, Honey Magazine, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, jean junction, Martha Hill, miss mouse, polly peck, rae spencer cullen, Roy A. Giles, Russell & Bromley, Samm, Spectrum, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials, wallis

If you can’t tango, simply steal into the spotlight in these flamboyant rumba dresses. The slipped shoulder strap, the bared midriff and the full-blown flouncy skirts all spell out the sexiest numbers for summer.

The main difference between the content of a magazine like Honey, as opposed to Vogue or Queen, is that the designers tend to be the more intriguing and less well-known of the period. If you want names like Miss Mouse, Granny Takes a Trip or Antony Price, these magazines should always be your first port of call. This shoot alone features one of my Holy Grail pieces by Granny Takes a Trip: the ruffled tie front top and skirt ensemble designed by Dinah Adams. Previously a designer for two other cult London boutiques, Mr Freedom and Paradise Garage, painfully little is known about Dinah Adams (misattributed as ‘Diana’ in the original credits). Which is why it’s always lovely to see her work represented anywhere.

Also shown here is a frothy, frilly delight of a frock by Miss Mouse, a.k.a Rae Spencer-Cullen. A personal favourite of mine, the Miss Mouse aesthetic is precisely why this early Seventies period is my favourite for fashion. Her work was heavily Fifties-inspired, quite ahead of the curve in the scheme of things, but always with a novel twist. Spencer-Cullen is yet another designer whose life remains something of a mystery, despite being a part of a hugely influential circle which included artists Duggie Fields and Andrew Logan. It seems that this anonymity was (at least initially) intentional, as an article from the Glasgow Herald in 1976 declared.

“At first, six years ago, when presenting her quirky designs on fashion, she seemed shy and utterly retiring. Miss Mouse could not be contacted easily by the press. She was elusive, hazed in shadows, a real mouse about publicity in fact. The only evidence of her entire existence was her clothes.”

In a world where we are so used to having information at our fingertips, there is something quite enchanting about this; tiny scraps must be stitched together to create a flimsy silhouette of a creative genius.

Photographed by Roy A Giles.

Scanned from Honey, July 1973.

(Please note – this blog originally appeared in 2016 on Shrimpton Couture’s ‘Curated’ blog project which has since been removed. It seemed a shame to let the posts disappear completely so I hope to eventually repost all my work here.)

Rose-strewn wrapover cotton bolero and long frilled skirt from Spectrum. Raffia and cotton tie belt by Herbert Johnson. Right: Tightly ruched off-the-shoulder top and long skirt with deeply riched waistband from Wallis.
Ritzy ruffled satin bolero top with frilled skirt by Dinah Adams for Granny Takes a Trip. Wavy leather sandals by Samm. Right: Slinky spotted Tricel dress by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper. Crackly taffeta long flounced skirt by Antony Price for Che Guevara. Wooden and patent sandals by Russell & Bromley.
Flouncy black and white gingham off-the-shoulder dress printed with orange and lemon flowers by Gillian Richard. Canary yellow sandals by Samm. Embroidered cummerbund by Herbert Johnson.
Swirling striped cotton skirt by Jean Junction. Off-the-shoulder pleated blouse by Martha Hill. Polished leather boots from Dolcis.
Black cotton ruched and flared rumba dress printed with multi-coloured flowers and birds by Miss Mouse. Apple green shoes by Russell & Bromley.

Left: Crisp cotton gingham blouse and flounced skirt both by Martha Hill. Oval bead choker and bangles by Paul Stephens. Right: Ruffled cotton check blouse and tiered skirt by Polly Peck. Cummerbund by Herbert Johnson. Shoes by Russell & Bromley.

Smell-a-Vision

1970s, Honey Magazine, Illustrations, Lynn Gray

Illustration by Lynn Gray accompanying an article about smell.

Scanned from Honey magazine, May 1975.

1970s, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, mr freedom, Vintage Adverts

Here’s Yvonne with her friends from “The Grope”, a pop group that first got going in Inverness. Noddy, sitting beside her, is lead guitar. On the right is Size, bass guitar. And Charlie, with the Micky Mouse shirt, used to be their manager. “The Grope” (only Viv is missing) write most of their own songs, and the one they like best is “Miss Samantha”.

Yvonne has lots of friends in the pop world and she now works at a Discotheque herself, serving drinks and food. She loves that job, though it’s not exactly what her mother had dreamed of: she wanted Yvonne to become a ballerina, like herself.

As it turned out, Yvonne started as a temp. shtd. typ. She didn’t stick it long, because she kept landing up with impossible bosses. “Old women, who wouldn’t let me talk”, she explains. So off she went to the Chelsea Drugstore and got a job assembling Knickerbocker Glories and suchlike at the Soda Fountain.

Yvonne, where are you now? And who on earth were ‘The Grope’? And where can I get that ‘Flower Power’ mug?

Scanned from Honey, May 1970.

Do or Dye

1970s, bus stop, Fifth Avenue, Herbert Johnson, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, kensington market, lee bender, Nike Williams, roger stowell, Sacha, Second Skin, Syndica, Vintage Editorials

Originality being one of the spices of life, isn’t it about time you did a bit of gentle artwork on some of your plainer clothes? We appliquéd satin designs on unadorned cotton T-shirts, but if you haven’t the patience to appliqué clouds with silver linings, how about tie dye instead?

Hoping this gives some inspiration to keep yourself occupied and looking groovy over the next weeks and months of isolation! In all seriousness, I hope all my dear readers are safe and well. Since my Vintage business is on ice for a little while, I have brought magazines home to scan and hope to keep you entertained and offer some escapism (plus there are years of archives to get through!). There will probably be extra stuff over on my Instagram as well so do go and follow me there.

(Instructions on how to copy these designs are at the bottom of the post.)

Set and designs by Nike Williams.

Photographs by Roger Stowell.

Drawings by H. Abbo.

Scanned from Honey, August 1970.

Rising sunset appliquéd onto a plain white jersey vest by Syndica. Shiny satin trousers by Second Skin. Red wet-look boots by Sacha.
Riot of hearts appliquéd on to a long plain black vest dress, Syndica. Beaded leather thonged armband from Bus Stop
White cotton jersey long vest dress by Syndica, tie-dyed yellow with large white circles. Patchwork belt by Fifth Avenue. Beaded thonged rope by Bus Stop. Silk scarf from Kensington Market.
Satin appliquéd steamboat on a plain scarlet cotton jersey tunic, Syndica. Patchwork leather belt from Fifth Avenue. Canvas sunhat by Herbert Johnson. Satin trousers by Second Skin.
Pink cotton jersey tunic, Syndica, tie-dyed plum with a pink border print. Stretchy webbing belt from Fenwicks. Green perspex sunshade from Lillywhites.
Pink button-up vest, Chester Martin, tie-dyed red with pink leaf pattern. Red cotton scarf from Littlewoods. White plastic sunshade from Lillywhites.

Aquaphilia (Part 2)

1970s, alligator, Bermona, bus stop, chelsea cobbler, Dannimac, hans feurer, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, lee bender, mary quant, old england, Russell & Bromley, valstar, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay
Short, sharp, patent vinyl reefer jacket by Valstar. Perspex waterproof beach watch by Old England.

We know a girl… who can’t last the day without lashings of spray. We know a girl… who gets quite high on a bucket of tide. We know a girl… who gets no elation from dusty dehydration. We know a girl… who gets all her kicks from aquatic dips. We know a girl… who can’t get enough of that H20 stuff. We know a girl… who’s got pneumonia.

As promised, the waterproof outerwear counterpart to the last post.

Photographed by Hans Feurer in the Canary Islands.

Scanned from Honey, February 1970.

Polished patent vinyl trench coat by Valstar. Thigh high PVC wader boots to order from the Chelsea Cobbler. Cotton vest dress from the Kensington Antique Market.
PVC safari raincoat by Dannimac. Boots by Russell and Bromley. Kerchief by Kreier.
Zipped and fringed rubberbacked cotton cowgirl rain jacket by Valstar. Jersey trousers by Bus Stop. Wet look boots by Mary Quant’s “Puddleducks”.
Stormcoat in waterproof rubberised cotton by Valstar. Wet look boots by Mary Quant’s “Puddleducks”.
Long, lean fringed rubber-backed cotton trench coat by Valstar. Bandana by British Home Stores. Wet look boots by Mary Quant’s “Puddleducks”.
Buckled up PVC fisherman’s rain jacket with mtaching trousers and sou’-wester, all by Alligator.
Silver-studded, saddle-stitched rain jacket in PVC by Rainsport.
Belted mid calf gaberdine trench coat by Alligator. Jersey trousers by Bus Stop. Wet look boots by Mary Quant’s “Puddleducks”.
Skinny mini PVC raincoat by Rainsport. Sou’-wester by Bermona. Waterproof boots by Russell and Bromley. Perspex beach watch by Old England.
Lacquered PVC raincoat with matching trousers and sou’-wester all by Weathergay. Wet look boots by Mary Quant’s “Puddleducks”.

Aquaphilia (Part 1)

1970s, biba, Dorothy Perkins, Gossard, hans feurer, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Kayser, kensington market, lingerie, Lovable, Marks and Spencer, mary quant, Sunarama, Twilfit, underwear, Vintage Editorials
‘Next to nothing’ nylon bra by Twilfit. Black lycra pntie girdle by Dorothy Perkins. Sheer smoky stockings by Mary Quant. / Black and white nylon stretch boxer briefs from Marks and Spencer.

We know a girl… who can’t last the day without lashings of spray. We know a girl… who gets quite high on a bucket of tide. We know a girl… who gets no elation from dusty dehydration. We know a girl… who gets all her kicks from aquatic dips. We know a girl… who can’t get enough of that H20 stuff. We know a girl… who’s got pneumonia.

Stunning editorial shot by Hans Feurer in two parts, half waterproof outerwear and half delicious underwear. Waterproofs next time…

Photographed by Hans Feurer in the Canary Islands.

Scanned from Honey, February 1970.

Light white cut out nylon mini slip from Dorothy Perkins. / Coin spotted camisole bra with matching tricot and lycra porthole-design pantie girdle, both by Lovable. Stockings by Sunarama.
Soft Celon criss cross plunge line bra by Gossard. Pantie girdle by Kayser. Stockings by Sunarama.
Transparent nylon and lycra bra and pantie girdle both from Marks and Spencer. Copper stockings from Sunarama. Pearls from Kensington Market.
Chestnut and cream flared mini slip with see through midriff by Kayser. / Shiny wet look bra slip by Dorothy Perkins.
White cobweb nylon and cotton lace chemise slip by Biba. Pearls from Kensington Market.