For some years now the London fashion designers have had the edge on their Paris rivals for ideas and innovations. Tomorrow evening a film on this subject will be shown on BBC1. Today we photograph the key London designers with their favourite clothes. What do they think of the London fashion scene? Where do we go from here?
Photographed by Terence Donovan. Fashion by Cherry Twiss.
Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, May 25th 1973.
Velvet jacket and matching skirt by Christopher McDonnell. Hat by Laura Ashley. Wallpaper by Laura Ashley.
Velvets have gone into print this winter. Dashing suits and jackets come in all the mutations of the earth, sea and sky and are designed to be worn before rather than after dark. They look a million dollars and sometimes don’t even cost that much.
Photographed by Terence Donovan.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, November 1974.
Jacket and cream shirt embroidered with corn ears and matching skirt, all by Bill Gibb. Navy leather boots from Russell & Bromley.
Rayon velvet jacket in Persian print and black rayon velvet skirt, both by Biba. Rust crepe de chine shirt by Otto. Sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith. Beret by Marida. Wallpaper from Laura Ashley.
Velvet jacket and matching skirt by Jaeger. Scarf by Rodier. Hat by Marida. Sunglasses by Oliver Goldmith. Boots by Charles Jourdan. Wallpaper by Biba.
Velvet jacket in splodgy print with matching skirt and Viyella blouse, all by Janice Wainwright.
Some men may wince at the thought of wearing anything more flash than an Alfa Romeo watch. And some girls will weep at the prospect of spending any of their salary on him. But there’s no doubt that a good deal of gilt-edged swopping is going on among the sexes. And I don’t mean that trad plain gold band. Much more interesting is the trend for loving couples to buy each other jewellery that they both can wear. It began a few years ago with gilt and elephant-hair rings that the likes of Twiggy and Justin used to sport. Then the Together People began exchanging chunky under-water watches and Cartier’s gold “love” bangles. Very simple, very expensive and very permanent because they are fastened with a screwdriver. Now that even jet-setters are uniformed like Steve McQueen in blue jeans, the latest swop-about jewellery is suitably chunky and shiny as a Harley-Davidson bike—see above: Peter Hinwood in a silver chain and bracelet from Andre Bogaert and ivory tusks from Butler and Wilson. The ear-ring is his own. Janni Goss is weighed down with two chromium bangles by Gijis Bakker, a stainless-steel belt by Emanuel Raft and a silver pendant by Helga Zahn. All one-offs and available at the Electrum Gallery, where customers include Julie Christie and Fenella Fielding. The girls order for themselves and their fellas. Gals and guys who prefer their jewellery on the frankly flash side—and they include Yoko and John Lennon—apply to Mick Milligan who designs the glitter stuff, worn by Barbara Trentham. and Gary Myers, below. Mick designs with his tongue in his cheek, like the BLANG! pins and the Rolls-Royce radiator badge, made in solid silver for Leonard, the London hairdresser, which Leonard’s wife also borrows. For females only: the “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” necklet—naturally 100 per cent fake stones—which Barbara wears with a fistful of chrome rings. From a fiver each, you can tell Mick’s loot is more than a joke. Meanwhile he is laughing all the way to the bank, so BLANG! to you. Lurex knit is by Christopher McDonnell.
Photographed by Norman Eales. Text by Deirdre McSharry.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, March 1972.
Crepe skirt and printed chiffon blouse both at Quorum. Pink patent shoes at Elliott. Tights from Bus Stop.
If you are prepared to forsake the mini this summer for the midi or maxi, you will find that designers have compensated for covering the legs by boldly slashing the skirts at the front, the back and the sides. Photographed at The Chelsea Drug Store.
This is a fascinating editorial for a few reasons. Firstly it is photographed at the legendary Chelsea Drug Store, showing off the incredible interior to perfection. It singularly fails to credit Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell with their garments for Quorum (an odd oversight given their fame at the time…). It is also a glorious insight into the mini/midi/maxi debate of 1970 and shows us the transition between late Sixties style and the early Seventies. The clothes are familiar as early Seventies, but the shoes are not yet platform and still stuck in a low block heel.
Photographed by Hans Feurer. Styled by Cherry Twiss.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Telegraph Magazine (exact date unknown, Spring 1970)
Cream jersey dress at Marrian McDonnell. Gold sandals at Elliott. Onyx and silver ring from The Purple Shop.
Printed voile dress by Mary Quant. Suede granny shoes by Elliott. Victorian pendant at The Purple Shop, Chelsea Antiques Market.
Orange crepe dress at Bus Stop. Orange suede sandals at Elliott.
Dress by Radley Gowns from Quorum. Shoes from Kurt Geiger. Victorian pendant from The Purple Shop.
Christopher McDonnell must dream in black and white, and all his dreams must star Ginger Rogers and Rita Hayworth. Because, when it comes to designing clothes, this twenty-eight year old ex-Royal College of Art designer is the very spirit of Hollywood: his clothes have backless bodices, necklines to the navel and skirts that grip the bottom and then flare in Busby Berkley pleats. His model girls, smiling jammily through their bright lips, false eyelashes and heaving curls, snap along on platform soles. One of today’s top stars, Anouk Aimée, is his favourite customer. Here, model Kari-Ann wears black taffeta top and pleated dotted culottes by Christopher McDonnell, £35. Hat by George Malyard. Shoes by Terry de Havilland, exclusive to Marrian McDonnell.
Photographed by Richard Imrie.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, May 1972.
Plum panne velvet skirt with rose pink appliqued flowers by Orte for Bombacha. Boa and beaded chiffon blouse also from Bombacha. Plum shoes by Sacha.
This is possibly one of the most perfect editorials I’ve seen in Vogue. Unshowy, basic, starkly-lit, but the clothes are mouthwatering. Plus, I am delighted to spot a pair of much loved (and much worn recently) velvet culottes from Wallis from my own wardrobe. It just goes to show, with a little bit of patience you can sometimes turn the dream into a reality…
Photographed by Palmer Smith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, November 1974.
Grey/green spotted velvet skirt, waistband flowered salmon and turquoise. Deep salmon pink chiffon blouse. Both by Orte for Bombacha.
Black flowered culottes and blouse by Wallis. Black ankle boots by Richard Smith for The Chelsea Cobbler.
Clockwise from top left: Paisley suit by Jeff Banks. Shirt by Rodier. / Paisley suit and cream blouse by Rue de La Paix by Reldan. / Rose print velvet by Kadix. Silk shirt by Katherine Hamnett for Tuttabankem / Bluebird printed skirt suit and blouse by Christopher McDonnell.
Black checked blue velvet jacket and skirt by Electric Fittings at Bombacha. Boots by Richard Smith for The Chelsea Cobbler.
Velvet suit by Janice Wainwright. Shoes by Mary Graeme.
Celia Hammond with Mrs Hammond. Born in Indonesia. Says she was ‘quite plump’ when she first walked into Lucy Clayton’s. “I started losing weight when I stopped worrying about it.” Confesses that she’s been in modelling so long that these days the money is the main attraction.
Celia’s dress by Jean Muir
Photographed by Guy Cross. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, November 22nd 1968.
Hylette Adolphe with Mrs Terese Adolphe. Born in Mauritius, convent-educated. Finds modelling “very hard and a bit depressing, but on the whole quite nice.” Recently in Corfu, where she had to learn to ride a Roman chariot for a German swimwear ad. Found it “quite terrifying”.
Hylette’s dress by Hylan Brooker to order from Worth Related Couture.
Paulene Stone with Mrs Sylvia Stone. After leaving school with six O-levels, she won a competition in a women’s magazine, part of the prize being a modelling course. She says she always wanted to be a model. “Apparently, I was always talking about it when I was a little girl.”
Pauline’s outfit by Simon Massey at Wallis.
Sandra Paul with Mrs Rosalie Paul. Born in Malta, where her father was an RAF doctor. Decided against going to university and instead she took a course at Lucy Clayton’s. Says about modelling that “in a funny way you enjoy it the more experienced and adaptable you become.”
Sandra’s dress by Marrian-McDonnell
Sarah Stuart with Mrs Croker Poole. Born in India, Sarah Stuart was educated in England and Paris (“no make-up lessons; we worked hard at French, history and commerce”). Took up modelling when her marriage broke up. Says it’s hard work – “getting up early, packing heavy cases…”
Sarah’s trouser suit by Gerald McCann at Vanessa Frye.
No, no mild sauce prefix (arf arf!). It’s been rather damp in dear old Blighty lately, which has actually done the unthinkable/unbearable and forced me into actual shops where you buy actual new clothes (I needed some kind of trench-y raincoat thing and was starting to think I would have to wait forever to find the perfect vintage one I wanted) and obnoxious people push you away from the full-length mirrors and waft a disdainful hand at you (I kid ye not, my expression was pretty much the same as the photo immediately below…). Anyway, I’ve been meaning to scan this frankly awesome shoot from Honey magazine for simply ages. And given the current climate, it finally seemed very appropriate.
Photos by Monty Coles. Honey magazine, February 1974
It’s a striking shoot. Rather modern-feeling (which just goes to prove that modern is rarely as modern as it seems…) and really affecting. Not emotionally, but physically. I can almost feel the models’ pain…