Prima della mia vacanza….

british boutique movement, celia birtwell, jean varon, john bates, ossie clark, seventies fashion, sixties, stirling cooper, website listings
Stirling Cooper

New listings! Oh yes….

Miss Novell

John Bates for Jean Varon

Ossie Clark

Louis Caring

John Bates for Jean Varon

Victor Costa

Act III

Simon Ellis

Ossie Holy Grail

celia birtwell, holy grails, Inspirational Images, marisa berenson, ossie clark, seventies fashion

I met up with the gorgeous Laurakitty yesterday for an Enchanted Palace experience (at Kensington Palace) and then prosecco and vintage geek talk near the birthplace of Biba on Abingdon Road. Laura has one of the most incredible collections of Ossie Clark clothes, many of which would definitely be something of a ‘Holy Grail’ for me.

Ossie holy grails are a strange subject I suppose, since I have a not-too-insubstantial handful of covetable pieces myself, but it doesn’t do to become too complacent about the idea of ultimate pieces by designers you love. New discoveries are what keeps the passion alive. Love Me Do is probably one of the ultimates, as is the Hockney portrait dress, but sometimes I think I would dearly trade either in for, say, this one as worn by the impossibly beautiful Marisa Berenson.

That said, I recently bought an Ossie I had lusted after for years. And now I have it, I’m not convinced it suits me.

Holy Grails are strange things. What are yours?

Farewell Duffy

brian duffy, celia birtwell, ossie clark, quorum, telegraph magazine, thea porter
Both dresses by Sheridan Barnett for Quorum

Both dresses by Sheridan Barnett for Quorum

Brian Duffy, 15 June 1933 – 31 May 2010

Thank you for making the world more beautiful. Photos by Duffy for The Daily Telegraph Magazine, September 1973.

Clothes by Jane Cattlin

Clothes by Jane Cattlin

 

Left: Thea Porter, Right: Missoni

Left: Thea Porter, Right: Missoni

Left: Ossie Clark, Right: Yves Saint Laurent

Left: Ossie Clark, Right: Yves Saint Laurent

Left: Jean Muir, Right: Sheridan Barnett

Left: Jean Muir, Right: Sheridan Barnett

Gratuitous vintage eye candy: Quorum, Petticoat 1970

alice pollock, celia birtwell, eye candy, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, petticoat magazine, quorum, seventies fashion

This is gratuitous eye candy. Pure and simple. Petticoat, August 1970. Photos by Jeannie.

I love these dedicated boutique fashion spreads. Everything here is from Quorum, either Alice or Ossie.





Ossie Spot: Monty Python

celia birtwell, monty python, ossie clark, vintage fangirl squee

I spotted this the other night within BBC2’s Monty Python evening, but I must also say thank you to Mrs Daniel for commenting on my blog that she’d spotted it which, in turn, reminded me to post about it. I’m always happy to do a bit of Palin-perving as well…

WendyB in OssieC from Vintage-a-Peel

celia birtwell, gorgeous customers, ossie clark, wendyB

I hope the lovely WendyB doesn’t mind my re-posting her photos of her (and her Zang Toi arm candy) wearing her latest Ossie (to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, no less!) which she bought from Vintage-a-Peel. I don’t often get the chance to see photos of the frocks being worn, although lovely customers often email to tell me where they’ve been worn and it’s always a delight to hear! Check out her blog post here.

A Tale of Two Knockoffs

1970s, celia birtwell, ossie clark, topshop, website listings

It’s not just Topshop in the Noughties who enjoy ripping things off. Sometimes it seems like every minor boutique in London, New York and Paris was taking more than a healthy dose of inspiration from Ossie Clark back in the Seventies. But it’s not often they went the whole hog when it came to the prints. Celia Birtwell’s handiwork is so distinctive, few decided to gamble with duplicating them wholesale.

I recently acquired two dresses at nearly the exact same time, both of which are direct copies of original Birtwell prints and which have been used in vaguely Ossie-esque designs. I thought it would be interesting to show you both of them, and to remind everyone to be careful of ‘unlabelled’ Ossie pieces which might look Ossie because of the Celia print…but are nothing like an Ossie original. They can be a brilliant alternative, so long as you know they’re just that and not the real deal.

The first is the Botticelli print (renamed Monkey Puzzle for the Topshop Celia range). An original Ossie example (and more gorgeous variations on it) is one of my many holy grails.

This piece is by Betty Barclay in a lovely light cotton, lined in the body, with a small keyhole neckline (with faux tie detail). Now available over at Vintage-a-Peel.

An original Ossie piece in Vogue: I would walk over hot coals and possibly kill someone for this dress.

This second piece is even more outrageous because it’s actually made in moss crepe, in a rather Ossie-style cut (although far too modestly done for him), by Emma (whoever they were). This is the glorious Floating Daisy print, most regularly seen in the tie-fronted buttoned dress [best demonstrated by the gorgeous WendyB in her red bodied version]..

The Real Deal. Sold over at Vintage-a-Peel a while ago

I’ve been hankering after an Ossie in this print which actually suits me, sadly the tie fronted one does not, and this dress is a little godsend. It’s a lovely soft pink version [which I’m sure Celia never did…far too insipid for her but I rather like it!] and the cut, whilst not up to Ossie standards, is very sweet and flattering. So I’m keeping this one. Sorry ladies! I’ll let you know if I ever change my mind….and I am giving up a spectacular Celia print Ossie dress in lieu (my wardrobe is a bit one in, one out at the moment…and it’s not really my colour…)

Well knock me down with an ostrich feather….

1940s, 1970s, celia birtwell, kate moss, ossie clark, style on trial

(I’ve been meaning to publish this in response to the dénouement of Style on Trial for a while now, so here it is….)

The Seventies won out in the end. I thought it was a lost cause, quite frankly, because people are so biased against a decade they associate with polyester and bad taste. Irritatingly and blatantly ignoring the fact that man made fibres in various forms have been in steady use in clothing since the 1930s. And bad taste is always with us. As much in the Fifties and Sixties as it was in the Seventies and Eighties, our specs have just got rosier with time passing.
Wayne Hemingway’s impassioned plea for glam, punk, northern soul and disco was certainly appealing to me, but I could also see why Celia Birtwell would question whether any of those clothes look remotely appealing on older ladies. My response to that would have been that I know many women who still wear their Ossie dresses well into their forties and fifties and still look incredible. Everything permitting, I hope I’ll be one of those ladies myself. She commented that forties styles were far more wearable for people of all ages, possibly forgetting that the Seventies (and specifically the likes of her ex-hubby) incorporated a lot of forties silhouettes and styles, updating them and making them sexier and more modern. All of which look gorgeous on older women as well.

So, perhaps the Forties should have won? I certainly enjoyed Lawrence Llewellyn-Bowen’s case for the decade, and was convinced that they would all vote for his era of choice. But in terms of the most rounded decade for fashion, I actually think the Seventies had it all.

Affordable clothing for those who wanted it, in the days before it was all farmed out to children in a sweatshop in Sri Lanka. Vivid, fun, sexy clothes for teenagers and twenty-somethings. Glamorous eveningwear and wearable separates for older, working women. Polyester has its place, and revolutionised the lot of the housewife, but you could just as easily get delicious crepes, jerseys and wool.

Platforms were infinitely superior to spindly little stiletto heels, and they didn’t have to be 6 inches high (unless you were a member of Slade or a very brave woman). Different styles and cultural groups or identities were plentiful. You could wear the general style of the era, or you could choose who you wanted to be.

Hair was fairly low maintenance if you so wished. And there was a style for all hair types. Every other decade (and trend within that decade) seems to have beaten everyone’s hair into submission to one overarching style. Likewise with make-up, there was a general look but fewer rules than before. The preferred female silhouette was natural. Curved but never to excess. Softness prevailed. No corsetted waists, but no severe straightness either.

Men actually cared about clothes. Not about labels in the way they do now. Clothes. They cared about fabric, colour, silhouette. They didn’t give a rat’s behind about looking overly feminine, and to my eye actually look more appealing and masculine in all their satin and tat.

Okay, perhaps not in the case of The Sweet….but I still adore them!


Ultimately it was the best attitude to style we’ve seen for a long time. Trying everything. Experimenting, being brave, making your own choices and not necessarily the same choice as anyone else. There was a good reason the New Romantics were harking back to Glam Rock and, to a lesser extent, disco. There was always a general ‘look’, but no one slavishly followed rules (unlike the mods, rockers, teddy boys and so on). You were expressing yourself.

While I don’t think any era can really be truly hailed as the greatest, and certainly style is a very subjective concept (the word stylish, in fact, makes me think of the word timeless….and thus, a bit dull and safe), I think the Seventies was a very brave but very well rounded choice to make.

Real Ossie Girls Go Bra-less

british boutique movement, celebrities in vintage, celia birtwell, ossie clark

Courtney, Courtney, Courtney. Now I do admire your choice of dress, it’s a fab Ossie and it’s definitely better than what I normally see you in…..but girl, Ossie didn’t like underwear. He never buttoned his dresses low enough for a gal to wear big pants. He never once put one of those little bra-holder loops in the shoulders of one of his dresses. The chiffons were sheer for a reason. Those skintight corset satin trousers simply don’t have enough room for knickers.

No brassieres with Ossies, ok? If you can’t get your tatas in your dress, get a bigger dress or some smaller implants!

[no one wants to catch a chill down south so I think we’re ok to wear knickers in the winter!]

Nice choice of arm candy though 😉

Pick of this week’s eBay offerings: Radley in Celia print and Biba catalogue scrumptiousness….

1960s, 1970s, biba, british boutique movement, celia birtwell, ebay listings, radley

RADLEY
Once upon a time, I happened across a Radley own-label dress with a print which screamed Celia Birtwell. It was very like her later, crazier prints you see on the later Ossie pieces. I was fascinated, and perplexed because it was definitely a later Radley piece with the ‘girly face’ label. But it was definitely Celia.

I wondered if it was a one-off. But now I’ve found this little beauty, which is exactly the same design of dress, with a totally different print – but also a very distinctly Celia one! I can only surmise that Birtwell remained contracted to Radley after her divorce from Ossie Clark and continued to create at least one collection under their label.

Printed sketchy flowers and squiggles cover the deep plum sheer chiffon of this delicious dress. The gathered waist, the draped faux-wrap bodice and the draped back from the fitted yoke give it a wonderful grecian goddess feel. I love the very subtle effect of the pale topstitching, and the sheerness without lining means you can be as audacious as you like – whether you wear a slip or undies is up to you! And that, is the influence of Ossie! 😉

£38 Starting bid over at eBay

BIBA
I always get very excited by Biba pieces which were featured in the catalogues of the late Sixties. Perhaps because Biba was often so ephemeral and fast-moving, and not always featured as heavily in magazines of the time as you might think, it’s lovely to see them in situ and be able to date them (and see the original prices!).

This lace blouse was originally part of an ensemble with a skirt (which could be long or short apparently) but clearly is extremely wearable on its own.


In the catalogue’s own description “Spider lace peplum suit. A close
fitting waisted jacket with narrow sleeves, buttoning to a high Edwardian neck.” The full suit was £7 7s in 1969.

Starting bid of £45 over at eBay

But that ain’t all…..there’s also a delicious couture label Ossie Clark ensemble, a superb bohemian Janice Wainwright, a super sweet candy pink Jean Varon dress and some other lovely non-designer pieces. Please do go and check it out!