Left: Sizeable spot suit. Crossed small spots flared into bigger spots, bodice attached briefly to big spot baggy trousers. By Sybil Zelker at Polly Peck, £12.85, at Harrods; Edward Bates, Chatham. Black plastic chains from range of jewellery, white patent wedge sandals, here and right, £16.50, at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.Near right: Cotton pique sun bodice, straps becoming sailor collar. By Stirling Cooper, £3.50, at Peter Robinson, London, Leeds, Norwich, Oxford. High-waisted cotton Oxford bags, £5.95, at Bus Stop. Plastic choker by Adrien Mann, £1.50, at Marshall & Snelgrove. Hats, this page, spotted muslin by Malyard, £16, at Marrian McDonnell. Opposite left: Spotty cotton halter, glazed striped cotton sailor trousers, by Christopher McDonnell, £4.25, £7.50 at Marrian McDonnell. Opposite centre: Batwing striped matelot, thin polybis knit, buttoned on one shoulder, by Hans Metzen, £4, at Harvey Nichols 21 Shop; June Daybell, Cheltenham; Ginger, Epping. Madly spotted belt with Perspex spot buckle, by Nigel Lofthouse, about £7, at Browns; James Drew. Voluminous stripe trousers, from a suit, by Sujon, £9, at Lord John, King’s Road; Butterfly, Hampstead; Pussycat, York. Scallop snake heels by Terry de Havilland, £14.99, at Leicester Shoes, Up West. Both straws, black with white crown, vice versa, £11, at Herbert Johnson. Opposite right: Cotton and Vincel knit halter all in a final bow. Checked cotton pedal pushers on shirred waist. By Lizzie Carr at Plain Clothes, about £3.95, £4.95, at Conspiracy from mid-May. Patent peeptoes, £19.50, at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Cotton drill halo, Titfers, £8, Liberty. All short white gloves, about 75p, by Kir. Hair by John at Leonard.
THE NEW SPOT CHECK ‘N STRIPE SHOW
Cottons crisp, cotton knit, hats as large as saucers, trousers wide, heels high, black and white giving positive power on a summer’s day.
Satin dresses, £8 from Let It Rock, 430 King’s Road, London SW3. Suede shoes with crepe heels, £17.75 (with green dress) and £17.50 (with black dress), both by Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, London SW3. Screaming Lord Sutch dresses by Let It Rock: 12in.-bottomed jean drains, £2.50; Lurex shirt, £3.95; waistcoat, £3.95. Full skirt and off-the-shoulder blouse (right), £8 and £5 from Alkasura, King’s Road, London SW3. Fifties stilettos and wide belt, £2 and £2.40; silver heart locket, £4.10.
If fashion revivals keep accelerating at the current rate, last year’s hot-pants are going to be a cult by the end of the decade. Who would have dreamed that a Fifties teenager’s wardrobe would be back in fashion by his late twenties? In 1958 Teddy Boys were practically extinct now crowds of Teds and Rockers cram the Fishmongers Arms at Wood Green to hear rock groups like Screaming Lord Sutch and the Houseshakers (above). There are now an estimated 20,000 revivalist Teddy Boys in England, and the drainpipe-trouser trade is booming. These pictures show some of the clothes that you’ve only just managed to forget.
A new and influential shop in the King’s Road is run by an original Ted called Malcolm McLaren. Walking into Let It Rock is like walking into a flashback from the Fifties. James Dean and Elvis posters line the walls; period showcases are filled with hair-cream, plastic combs and sweetheart lockets; the juke-box belts out some of the best rock ever recorded, and the clothes on sale would be a credit to Gene Vincent, Presley, Eddie Cochran or anyone else who made the recordings. Boxes of 45s and old fan magazines litter the floor next to genuine valve radios with a three-month guarantee.
Designers like Stirling Cooper and Mr Freedom have been manufacturing Fifties-inspired clothes for some time, but Let It Rock is the only shop selling the real thing. This particular revival is so premature that there is still a large amount of the original stock around; dirndl skirts, stiletto-heeled winkle-pickers, cotton sweaters and plastic jewellery, not to mention 12in. drainpipe trousers and jeans, bootlace ties, luminous socks and blue suede shoes. This is the only place where Teds can buy off-the-peg ‘drapes’ — their mid-thigh Edwardian velvet-trimmed jackets. The phenomenon of Let It Rock is that it is situated in the heart of Chelsea, which Teds regard as ‘enemy territory’; now they’re selling to the newly converted ‘natives’.
The clothes in Let It Rock are inspired by two groups, the Teddy Boys (and girls) and Rockers (and birds). According to McLaren, Teds like the updated rock styles, whereas the Rockers, especially the girls, prefer ‘strong’ ideas like the characteristic shaggy mohair sweater-dresses and winklepicker boots. ‘Chelsea people’ go more for the authentic stuff . . . if you endorse a revival, you might as well get the real thing Fashion can thank the Fifties for some of the most unglamorous and unflattering clothes we ever knew. That is what makes their unmodified rebirth so difficult to understand.
I’m not sure I can say much more about Vivienne Westwood’s body of work which hasn’t already been said. I always think the best quality in a designer is idiosyncrasy, and Westwood had that by the truckload. Her work didn’t stagnate, but it often referenced her own past and continued to translate the wider cultural past into her own language – and yet never tried to be anybody else. Given my magazine collection covers mainly the Sixties and Seventies, I thought it best to celebrate her by doing what I do best, which is trying to go back and show you the starting point for the things we just take for granted decades later. The origins of what she’s best known for are ultimately in the Teddy Boy revival of the early Seventies and her work for ‘Let It Rock’ with Malcolm McLaren, and this captures that early spark – despite the fact that they don’t mention her at all.
I’ve also been meaning to scan this for a while so, now seemed like a good time. I mean, Pat Cleveland and Screaming Lord Sutch photographed by Hans Feurer? What more could you ask for?
Report by Valerie Wade.
Photographed by Hans Feurer.
Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, May 14th 1972.
Top left : short fringed dress, £7, from Let It Rock. Bottom left: short mohair dress, £12. Black winklepicker boots, £12. Centre top: V-necked cotton sweater in Fifties fabric, £2; genuine pearlised belt, £2.50; all from Let It Rock. Above: black jean drains, £2.50, and luminous socks, 30p; both from Let It Rock. Off-the-shoulder sweater, £3.95, Stirling Cooper Shop, Peter Robinson, Oxford Street, Vl. Tartan shoes, £16.50, Zapata, 49 Old Clurch Street, SW3. Right: crepe skirt, £6, Let. It Rock. Scarf, 35p, at Woolworth’s
Red hat in soft felt, from Feathers, 40s. Short crossover woollen top with navy trim has short sleeves, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Plain black jersey midi skirt, by Stirling Cooper, 90s. Blue and red choker, from Fenwicks, 10s.
Beautiful and gay knits are 19’s answer for post-summer blues; dazzling bright and eye-catching in an array of primary colours. The styles are the simplest possible—tiny tops with cross-over fronts and, for those who prefer the classic, pullovers in cleverly co-ordinated stripes. This style of knitwear is best worn with toning jersey skirts, preferably in a midi length, and trousers. To complete the kaleidoscope look, add brightly coloured shoes, stockings, a scarf or a choker.
Photographed by John Stember.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1970.
Black crochet hat, by Sally Levison Originals, 65s. Short crossover pullover in bright colours has short black sleeves trimmed with red, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Black jersey skirt fastened up the side with metal buttons, by Stirling Cooper, £6. Black crochet choker, from Fenwicks, 15s.
Multi-coloured striped woollen pullover has long sleeves, 75s. Bright red jersey skirt, 90s. Both by Stirling Cooper. Black tights, by Mary Quant, 15s. Red leather bar shoes, by Anello and Davide, 58s.6d. Black woollen long-line pullover has red, blue and yellow stripes round the waist and elbow, 70s. Yellow jersey skirt, 90s. Both by Stirling Cooper. Bright red tights, by Mary Quant, 15s. Lime green bar shoes, by Anello and Davide, 58s.6d.
Bright blue and yellow vest-style woollen pullover has long sleeves and fastens with tiny buttons at neck, 70s. Bright red pants, 89s.6d. Both by Stirling Cooper. Buttercup yellow pullover with red trim has square neckline and short sleeves, 60s. Bright red jersey pants, £4 19s.6d. Both by Stirling Cooper.
Black, red and yellow short-sleeved pullover has a polo neckline, 75s. Black jersey, button-through skirt, £6. Both by Stirling Cooper. Red and blue woollen pullover has long sleeves which are trimmed with buttons, 75s. Plain black jersey midi skirt, 90s. Both by Stirling Cooper. Long blue silk scarf printed over with flowers, from a selection at Rosie Nice in Kensington Market.
Striped woollen pullover, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Vivid green skirt jersey, by Stirling Cooper, 90s. Tights, by Mary Quant, 18s.11d. Shoes, by Anello and Davide, 58s.6d.
Fine knit polo-neck pullover with long sleeves worn with matching knit trousers in tones of beige, with red and yellow stripes, by Pourelle, 14gns
Woollen long-sleeved pullover has stripes in yellow, green, blue, red and purple, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Navy blue jersey knickerbockers, from Just Looking, 5gns.
Light and dark grey pull-on woollen knit hat. Light grey pullover has polo neck and long sleeves. Sleeve-less pullover worn on top is in two-tone grey and has a rounded neckline. Matching midi skirt. 28gns. the set. All by Pourelle. Black leather boots with hooks and laces, by Dolcis, £10 19s. Black crochet hat, by Sally Levison Originals, 65s. Purple and lilac finely knit woollen pullover has matching midi skirt, by Pourelle, £18. Black tights, by Elbeo, 12s.11d.
Striped hat. ochre-coloured finely ribbed pullover and matching midi skirt with diagonal stripes in plum, purple, orange and ochre, 17gns. the set. All by Pourelle. Black leather boots with hooks and laces, by Dolcis, £10 19s.
Tailored diamond jacquard midi suit, Sheriloyd 10½gns. ; cream silk cravat, Jacqmar, 47s. 6d. ; sheer plum tights, Mary Quant 10s. ; triple bar patent shoes, Saxone, 89s. 11d. ; smart velour hat, Herbert Johnson, 95s. ; amber bow brooch, Hope and Eleanor, 45s.
After seasons and seasons of dresses and trousers, suits are back with us again. But the new generation of suits is quite different from any we’ve worn before; sexily elongated with midi skirts and slender waisted jackets, in jacquard jerseys and patterned wools. Suddenly suits are younger, smarter – the newest way to get yourself looking together.
Photographed by Morgan Rank.
Scanned from Honey, November 1970.
Dusty pink wool jersey midi suit with fluted lilac and pink striped jacket, Stirling Cooper, 10 gns. ; cream jacquard knit shirt, Clobber, 87s. 6d. : wavy plum and white leather belt, Simon Suede, 63s.: sheer plum tights, Berkshire, 7s. ; walnut patent silver buckle court shoes, Ravel. £5 19s. 11d.
Plum and navy flower-chain suit, Bus Stop, £8 10s. ; plum velour hat, Herbert Johnson, 95s. ; plain brown leather gloves, Dents, 57s. 6d. ; sheer black coffee tights, Wolford, 13s. ; walnut laced shoes, Ravel, £5 19s. 11d.
Zipped-up Dacron and wool jacquard jacket, 10 gns., with matching midi kilt, 6 gns., both by Gladrags : geometric crepe scarf Sarah Jane. 56s.
Yellow crepe blouse by Antony Price at Che Guevara, £5. Sky blue floral patterned skirt with plain blue panels, from Universal Witness, £6. Black bead necklace from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Sunglasses are the model’s own.
Rock around the tops that look as though they’ve come straight from the era of the hand-jive and Radio Luxembourg. That’s because our bright young designers have revived such golden oldies as the off-the-shoulder sweater and the shirtwaister blouse. So just add dirndl skirts, popper bead bracelets, swing out in hoop earrings, and we’ll see you later, alligator…
I am sorry to say that I don’t know the name of the model in this spectacular editorial, but I’m pretty sure that she’s the same model as in the video for Stuck in the Middle With You by Stealer’s Wheel. She of the gratuitous eclair-eating – and the most incredible platform shoes I’ve ever seen. It’s safe to say that I was captivated by her look in that video when I was a teenager (with an unhealthy fixation on watching VH1 rather than MTV). So if anyone knows her name, do let me know!
Photographed by Roger Charity.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1971.
Off-the-shoulder red and white striped woollen sweater, £4.50. Red crepe pencil skirt fastens down the back with large white buttons, £6. Both by Phyllis Collins at Stirling Cooper. White vanity case by Antler, £7.25. Cotton scarves, from Gamages, 35p each.
Black and white striped voile shirt with batwing sleeves and pintucks at the waist, by Antony Price at Che Guevara, £5. Violet satin skirt, from Universal Witness, £7.50. Black and white spotted cotton hankie, from Herbert Johnson, 40p. Button brooch, designed for Zandra Rhodes by Mick Mulligan.
Emerald green and white striped woolen sweater with ties at shoulders, £4.50. Matching satin jersey pencil skirt with buttons down the back, £6. Both by Phyllis Collins at Stirling Cooper. Hoop earrings by Adrien Mann, £1.50. Necklace by Funny Bijou at Titfers, £1.50. Silver bow ring by Mick Milligan at Mr Freedom.
Left: White cotton edged with red, lots of frills tied up with bandanna bows. By Rosie Bradford, about £15, at Quorum; Che Guevara. Fine white straw, £10, Herbert Johnson. White ribbed gloves, Kir, 75p. Red and white striped canvas shoes laced onto a high wooden platform, £12.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Right: Three deep cotton frills and a halter bodice edged and tied in red. By Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey, £9.95. Small white straw, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Peppermint earrings and clips by Adrien Mann, about £1, at Marshall & Snelgrove. White block and string shoes, £7.75, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Helanca gloves, Kir, 75p. Hat pins, from a selection at The Purple Shop.
more of it, less of it, what there is of it, frilled.
Preview of new white shapes you’ll be seeing when the sun’s hot: all cut out, cropped or split, beginning with flamenco frills piped in with red.
Well, it may not be May any more but this editorial feels perfect for the current weather. And those Manolo Blahnik for Zapata shoes? Pass the smelling salts…
Hair by John at Leonard.
Photographed at the Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens
Photographed by Peter Knapp.
Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.
Left: Small cotton broderie anglaise blouse under the shelter of a big frilled collar, with a thin gabardine skirt split front and back. Blouse, Stirling Cooper, £4.25, at Peter Robinson. Skirt, Screaming Mimi, £6.50, exclusively for Granny Takes a Trip. White Openwork Helanca gloves, Kir, 80p, at Dickins & Jones. White shoes, £7, Bilbo. Hat, £10, Herbert Johnson. Right: Buttoned padded halter bodice, edged and buttoned in scarlet. White pleated Colonial cotton shorts, buckled each side. Bodice by Rosie Bradford, about £7, at Quorum ; Che Guevara. Shorts, £5.95, Bus Stop. White patent shoes, £16.50, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. White straw, £11.50, Herbert Johnson. Hat pins from range, The Purple Shop.
Wide wide cotton trousers gathered on elastic, a gathered cotton halter top, the edge let go to frill. By Pablo & Delia, £18, at Browns. White peep-toe shoes, £7, detachable bow £1 extra, at Bilbo. Hat, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Earrings, Adrien Mann. Laced cuffed Helanca gloves by Kir, 75p, at Derry & Toms
Palest green Dicel satin blouse with glass buttons, £5.25. Apple green circular skirt in silk and rayon mixture, £8.75. Both from Universal Witness. Green tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Red patent shoes from Yves Saint Laurent, £14.
The look is tarty—and where better to go for background atmosphere than Hong Kong, sinful city of the Orient, perfect setting for saucy ladies of ill-repute. In this rich, bustling East/West meeting point, with its maze of colourful streets and endless shops bursting with tax-free jade, pearls and cameras. one gets the feeling that beyond these elegant facades are hidden opium dens, James Bond intrigues, and seamy Suzie Wong bars. We took the ferry across from Kowloon to Hong Kong and travelled to Aberdeen—a small, picturesque harbour inlet filled with over eight thousand junks and sampans, ornate floating restaurants selling delicious, fresh seafood, and crowded local markets.
Styled by Norma Moriceau.
Photographed by John Bishop.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1971.
The styling and clothes in this editorial (I mean, green tights and red platforms? Swoon!) are something close to flawless. Unlike the copy – which I have still posted as a historical document – and also, possibly, the use of local residents as ‘extras’. I occasionally feel the need to clarify that I don’t necessarily endorse all elements of things I post, but I also don’t think it benefits us to completely censor history – especially when one is creating an archive.
Satin print blouse, from Van Der Fransen, £2. Blue cotton skirt with white print and ruffled dipping hem, by Universal Witness, £7.35. Tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Purple leather sandals, from Bata International, £7. Satin shawl with black fringing, from Van Der Fransen, £5.
White sleeveless Dicel satin dress with large blue flower design, by Universal Witness, £14.70. Apple green mock lizard sandals, by Bally, £6-50. Bracelet from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
Moss crepe dress by Alice Pollock at Radley, £13.50. Tight by Mary Quant, 75p. Patent wedge sandals by Yves Saint Laurent, £14. Bracelets from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
White crepe dress with moon print and matching shorts by Antony Price at Stirling Cooper, £10. Ankle strap shoes, from Ravel, £5.99.
Cotton jersey halter-neck top and slit skirt in green and yellow floral print, by Alan Rodin, £5. Navy suede laced sandals, by Lilley and Skinner, £8.95. Bracelet from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
Black Tricel dress with beige print has cap sleeves and sash tie, by Biba, £8.55. Navy sandals with lacings, by Lilley and Skinner, £8.95. Neckklace from a selection at Kensington Market. Rings are model’s own. Flower from Fogg and Wakefield.
LEFT: Flower-appliqued denim sundress with back ties £19.90, from Fiorucci, Brompton Rd, SW1. RIGHT: Lace, beaded denim skirt £15.95, and lace-up appliqued waistcoat £7.95, both by Jump Jeans, from Wallis, Oxford St, W1 and branches; Miss Selfridge, Duke St, W1 and branches; all branches of Top Shop Debenham’s, Oxford St, W1 and branches; Jane Norman, Oxford St, W1.
Summers may come and summers may go but denim never fails us.
Modelled by Joanna Jacobs and unknown model.
Photographed in Florida by Roelof Wennink.
Scanned from Honey, April 1976.
White cotton broderie anglaise lace-up camisole top with ribbon trim, Charles Grahame £6, from Bombacha, 104 Fulham Rd, SW3.
Denim shorts £8.90, from Elle, New Bond St, W1 and branches. Cotton jersey T-shirt £2, from Martha Hill, Marylebone High St, W1. Denim waistcoat with popper fastening and ‘V’ stitched front, Eagle £6.95, from Dickins & Jones, Regent St, Wl. Red velvet pouch bag, Macondo.
Button-through denim boiler suit, £18.99, from Jean Junction, King’s Rd, SW3 and branches. Red shoulder purse, Macondo ; scarf from a selection at Fenwick.
Skimpy striped cotton tube sun top with thin halter-neck straps, Jap £5.95, from Jap & Joseph, 20 Brompton Rd, SW1. Denim stitched Bermuda shorts, Eagle £6.95, from Miss Selfridge, Duke St, W1; Dickins & Jones, Regent St, W1.
LEFT: Navy and white striped cotton back buttoned sundress with kick pleated front, Inega £10.95, from Jigsaw, Heath St, NW3 and Putney; DJ Girl, Dickins & Jones, Regent St, W1; Superstar, Leeds. Sunhat, Charles Batten £7; pale blue sandals, Russell & Bromley £18-99. RIGHT: Denim jeans with detachable cream braces £12.99, from Jean Junction, King’s Rd, SW3 and branches. Tropical printed cotton shirt, £6.50, from Tropical Belt, Beauchamp Pl, SW1. Boots, model’s own.
Oatmeal sweater with maroon and green trim, Ivory £13, from Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge, SWI ; Miss Selfridge, Duke St, W1; Virgin Rags, Hull and branches. Denim painter’s jeans, Marshall Lester £10, from Harrods, Knightsbridge, SW1 ; Jane & I, Blackheath, SE3 ; Sidney Smith, King’s Rd, SW3. Sunhat, Charles Batten £7.
Hooded zip-up denim anorak £10.50, from Jean Junction, Kensington High St, W8, King’s Rd, SW3 and branches. Denim shorts, Marshall Lester £7, from Harrods, Knightsbridge, SW] ; Jane & Blackheath, SE3 ; Boa, Sheerness. Lime green and white striped cotton T-shirt, Stirling Cooper £2.95, from Ronnie Stirling, Bond St, W1; Top Shop, Oxford Circus, W1; Owen Owen, Coventry and branches.
Black and white seersucker skirt, Stirling Cooper, £8.50, from a selection of prints and designs at Miss Selfridge, Oxford Street, London W1 ; sweater 75p, also from a selection at Miss Selfridge; scarf from Chelsea Antique Market.
This summer’s new long day skirts might make attractive alternatives for those who fancy a change from shifts and pants. Worn as Italian film actress Nicholetta Machiavelli likes them, with simple T-shirts and an old prop-basket petticoat, they look casual and romantic, and are surprisingly cool to wear.
Styled by Meriel McCooey.
Photographed by Eva Sereny.
Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, August 6th 1972.
Bright tartan seersucker, £8.50, sweater £1.95, both at Miss Selfridge.
Frilled, elasticated top £2.50; split-sided skirt £3.70, both from Diana Doe.
halter top, Diana Doe £1.75, mail order from Do Do House, 69,Bedford Road, Reading RG1 7EY, Berks; skirt £8.50, at Miss Selfridge.
LEFT: Zig-zag knitted acrylic skirt and jacket. £7.50 each from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, WI (mail order 30p). Scarf from The Orange Box. RIGHT: Loose crêpe-de-chine overblouse and matching skirt. Wendy Dagworthy £39. from Crocodile. 98 Bond Street. WI (mail order 30p and all branches: lsmat, 313 Brompton Road, SW3. Belt, Bombacha £2.30: silky scarf. Nostalgia £2.25.
Photographed in Ricci Burns’s drawing room. Hair by Mr Ricci of Ricci Burns.
Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.
Scanned from Honey, January 1975.
LEFT: Chocolate brown fitted wool jacket with top-stitched yoke and pockets and side-buttoning skirt £27.95. both from Gingernut. 40 James Street. W1. Floppy crepe-de-chine tie-neck blouse £5.50. David Fielden, at Antiquarius: thin leather belt with cream carved buckle, from Baggage & General. RIGHT: Tailored jacket with nipped-in buttoned waist and wide lapels and flared panelled skirt £27.95, both from Gingernut, 40 James Street, W1. 50s silky printed `scarf’ blouse. Nostalgia £3: brown chiffon scarf, from a selection at Fenwick.
Russet hopsack double-breasted jacket £22.95, and mid-calf skirt with front pleat £12.95, both by Stirling Cooper, from Ronnie Stirling, 94 New Bond Street, W1 ; Top Shop, Oxford Circus and branches; Owen Owen, Coventry, Liverpool and Wolverhampton. Maroon and white scarf, Nostalgia £2.00; shoes, Chelsea Cobbler £17.99.
Liz Eggleston 