Coats of Many Colours

1970s, Afghanistan, Boutiques, Eva Sereny, Inspirational Images, Margaret Kimber, meriel mccooey, Meriel McCooey, Shakira Caine, Stock, Vintage Editorials

The fabrics, the hand embroideries, the ornate but cheap jewels and the colourful clothes which seem so exotic in Western eyes are accepted as ordinary and everyday in Afghanistan; but it takes sophisticated know-how to appreciate and capitalise on the exquisite workmanship involved. Their shaggy coats, sold over here by the thousand, are bargains, especially when you consider how much warm cloth coats cost nowadays, and even though the Afghans have still to perfect a way of treating the skins to stop them smelling. They undersell their goods, having little idea of what they are fetching overseas, and they have no set sizing system. In other words, to make their fashion industry commercially viable it needs organisation and expertise. Margaret Kimber, an English girl who recently spent 18 months in Kabul, proved in a small way that this can be done. She turned her home into a workshop, bought bales of fabric, employed local labour to make up her designs and returned with the clothes shown on these pages. We photographed them in Paris on Shakira Caine, a flawless Indian beauty from Guyana, a former Miss World contestant now married to actor Michael Caine. A model before her marriage, she was the sexy girl in the television coffee-bean ad. A selection of these dresses, all different, ranging in price from £28 to £40, as well as jewellery (examples of these are shown on the cover), are available from Stock, 236 Fulham Road, London SW10, and at 131 High Holborn, WC1. Some of them are shown on these pages. The cushions and wall-hangings are from Mohanjeet, 21 Rue Saint-Sulpice, Paris 6.

By Meriel McCooey.

Photographed by Eva Sereny.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, 17th March 1974.

Nice bit of skirt

1970s, Chelsea Antiques Market, Diana Doe, Eva Sereny, meriel mccooey, Meriel McCooey, miss selfridge, Nicholetta Machiavelli, stirling cooper, sunday times magazine, Vintage Editorials
Black and white seersucker skirt, Stirling Cooper, £8.50, from a selection of prints and designs at Miss Selfridge, Oxford Street, London W1 ; sweater 75p, also from a selection at Miss Selfridge; scarf from Chelsea Antique Market.

This summer’s new long day skirts might make attractive alternatives for those who fancy a change from shifts and pants. Worn as Italian film actress Nicholetta Machiavelli likes them, with simple T-shirts and an old prop-basket petticoat, they look casual and romantic, and are surprisingly cool to wear.

Styled by Meriel McCooey.

Photographed by Eva Sereny.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, August 6th 1972.

Bright tartan seersucker, £8.50, sweater £1.95, both at Miss Selfridge.
Frilled, elasticated top £2.50; split-sided skirt £3.70, both from Diana Doe.
halter top, Diana Doe £1.75, mail order from Do Do House, 69,Bedford Road, Reading RG1 7EY, Berks; skirt £8.50, at Miss Selfridge.

Meet. Dream. Talk. Touch. Trevira. Terrific!

1970s, austin reed, Cojana, Eva Sereny, frank usher, jean allen, Kati at Laura Phillips, Roter, trevira, Vintage Adverts, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Dress in Harlequin print by Kati at Laura Phillips. / Peasant style dress by Kati at Laura Phillips.

I can’t say I’d normally be rushing to lovingly scan a Trevira advertorial, but then not all Trevira adverts were photographed by Eva Sereny!

All man’s accessories from Austin Reed.

Photographed by Eva Sereny.

Scanned from Vogue, March 1978.

Scoop neck sweater by Dalkeith. Skirt by Dereta.
Hooded cape and long evening dress by Roter.
Dress and cape as before. His suit by Austin Reed.
Two piece by Frank Usher. / Top and skit by Cojana.
Evening dress by Jean Allen. Man’s suit by Steegan.

Inspirational Images: Voila! La pièce de résistance!

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bernshaw, biba, british boutique movement, celia birtwell, cosmopolitan, David Collings, David Warbeck, Eva Sereny, gordon king, Hilary Floyd, Inspirational Images, John Michael, Larrio, Martin Potter, Michael Petrovitch, Michaeljohn, mitzi lorenz, ossie clark, Patrick Mower, Penny Graham, polly peck, Renate Zatsch, Sam Wright, Turnbull & Asser, Vintage Editorials

Often the best parties are just for two, so make it an evening to remember. Jenny gets star treatment from Martin Potter, a Shakespearian actor whose sensational looks are making him new audiences. His ideal party: "There'd be just the two of us and it would last a month. We'd hide out in a mountain retreat. Heavy snowfalls would cut us completely off from the rest of the world. And if the telephone packed up, even better." Jenny looks the part in a slink of a dress from Polly Peck, £12-35. Heavy gilt choker and perspex bangle from Adrien Mann.

Often the best parties are just for two, so make it an evening to remember. Jenny gets star treatment from Martin Potter, a Shakespearian actor whose sensational looks are making him new audiences. His ideal party: “There’d be just the two of us and it would last a month. We’d hide out in a mountain retreat. Heavy snowfalls would cut us completely off from the rest of the world. And if the telephone packed up, even better.” Jenny looks the part in a slink of a dress from Polly Peck, £12-35. Heavy gilt choker and perspex bangle from Adrien Mann.

Like the telly bank manager in the cupboard, every girl ought to keep one in her wardrobe … a rigout that makes a girl look great, feel high and draws every man to her side, irresistibly. After your winter fur your most useful investment ought to be one such stunning outfit … la piece de resistance. If it gives you that gilt-edged feeling of security that a proper party frock should, you will be glad to wear it again and again … who cares about being seen twice or even one dozen times in the same outfit … so long as you know you look your absolute best. Cosmo asked eight beautiful and busy models to choose and wear the most stunning party clothes around. And then we invited eight dishy men with great personalities to join them and give their reactions. We brought out the Champagne .. . and the pictures tell the rest of the story. Vive la difference!

Fashion by Penny Graham. Photographed by Eva Sereny.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, December 1973

This editorial is like honey to me. The men, the clothes, the men’s clothes…

Patrick Mower, one of TV's best dressed men and more often seen playing tough, hard-hitting Detective Inspector Haggerty in Special Branch, closes in on Caroline. Patrick is a great one for big parties: "I case the room and meet whoever I fancy. Everyone should look great and be in a good mood. If they're not they can go home." Caroline luckily suits all demands in a tie-topped blouse and long skirt by Ossie Clark for Radley, £30.

Patrick Mower, one of TV’s best dressed men and more often seen playing tough, hard-hitting Detective Inspector Haggerty in Special Branch, closes in on Caroline. Patrick is a great one for big parties: “I case the room and meet whoever I fancy. Everyone should look great and be in a good mood. If they’re not they can go home.” Caroline luckily suits all demands in a tie-topped blouse and long skirt by Ossie Clark for Radley, £30.

Put on your most sexy dress—something nice and bare that shows a lot. David Collings, bearded for his part in Ken Russell's Mahler, approves of girls who get "all dolled up". He likes throwing instant parties: "Italian food, loads of wine, lots of talk. I then just let things happen. Surprises are always fun." Jane provides just the right degree of suspense in a slashed to the waist dress by Bernshaw, £19.

Put on your most sexy dress—something nice and bare that shows a lot. David Collings, bearded for his part in Ken Russell’s Mahler, approves of girls who get “all dolled up”. He likes throwing instant parties: “Italian food, loads of wine, lots of talk. I then just let things happen. Surprises are always fun.” Jane provides just the right degree of suspense in a slashed to the waist dress by Bernshaw, £19.

Invited to a dressy dinner party? Wear a simple slither of a little black dress that emphasises all your good points. Michael Petrovitch, a tall, broody looking actor, starring in Wet Stuff with Elliott Gould and Donald Sutherland, loves small parties "Where the food's delicious, the conversation good and the woman beside me a marvellous listener. If she's dark and exotic looking—fantastic." Carole fits the role perfectly in a skimmy voile and Lurex dress by Ossie Clark for Radley, £30. Gilt bangle, ring, from a selection at Adrien Mann.

Invited to a dressy dinner party? Wear a simple slither of a little black dress that emphasises all your good points. Michael Petrovitch, a tall, broody looking actor, starring in Wet Stuff with Elliott Gould and Donald Sutherland, loves small parties “Where the food’s delicious, the conversation good and the woman beside me a marvellous listener. If she’s dark and exotic looking—fantastic.” Carole fits the role perfectly in a skimmy voile and Lurex dress by Ossie Clark for Radley, £30. Gilt bangle, ring, from a selection at Adrien Mann.

If your man is the host, you'd better look great. David Warbeck, actor and model, is a great cook, and likes his hostess to shine. "I do exotic things like pheasants in honey. I serve several courses so dinner lasts about three hours, but I ask people to swap seats . . . then they can really get to know each other." Greta glows in a dress with a cutaway back, Bemshaw, , £13.50; choker and bangle from Adrien Mann.

If your man is the host, you’d better look great. David Warbeck, actor and model, is a great cook, and likes his hostess to shine. “I do exotic things like pheasants in honey. I serve several courses so dinner lasts about three hours, but I ask people to swap seats . . . then they can really get to know each other.” Greta glows in a dress with a cutaway back, Bemshaw, , £13.50; choker and bangle from Adrien Mann.

Be the toast of the party in a dress with a deep neckline and a cutaway back. Gary Bond, lead in Joseph And His Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, is bowled over by blonde Birgitta. "I love girls who laugh at my jokes. If they're all dolled up and smelling delicious I'm their slave. I get very nervous at big parties so when I find a girl I whisk her off to the kitchen. It's the quietest place: we can sit down and get to know each other." Birgitta's dress is by Hilary Floyd, £23. For that extra flirty film star touch, a matching ostrich boa from Mitzi Lorenz, £11.

Be the toast of the party in a dress with a deep neckline and a cutaway back. Gary Bond, lead in Joseph And His Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, is bowled over by blonde Birgitta. “I love girls who laugh at my jokes. If they’re all dolled up and smelling delicious I’m their slave. I get very nervous at big parties so when I find a girl I whisk her off to the kitchen. It’s the quietest place: we can sit down and get to know each other.” Birgitta’s dress is by Hilary Floyd, £23. For that extra flirty film star touch, a matching ostrich boa from Mitzi Lorenz, £11.

Turn him on. This winter's most glamorous party vest has that 1000 watt gleam. Larrio, the six foot four dancer at the London Contemporary Dance Theatre, is electrified by Jan. "Give me lots of pretty girls, lock the door and let me get at them! I really dig dancing the night away. If I give a party I like it to go on for nights and days." Jan's high-voltage sequin vest is from Biba,£11.45 ; pants, £10, from Gordon King. Earrings from Adrien Mann. Larrio's silk shirt from a selection at Browns.

Turn him on. This winter’s most glamorous party vest has that 1000 watt gleam. Larrio, the six foot four dancer at the London Contemporary Dance Theatre, is electrified by Jan. “Give me lots of pretty girls, lock the door and let me get at them! I really dig dancing the night away. If I give a party I like it to go on for nights and days.” Jan’s high-voltage sequin vest is from Biba,£11.45 ; pants, £10, from Gordon King. Earrings from Adrien Mann. Larrio’s silk shirt from a selection at Browns.

Wear a tinsel jacket—and look like the best-wrapped package in the room. Sam Wright flashes across the stage nightly in Two Gentlemen of Verona but is here brought to a halt by Renate. "Parties are very sensual things to me," says Sam. "I lie around on big cushions listening to Beethoven or sitar music. The night should just drift away. I like my guests to feel free to do whatever they like." Renate's jacket, £13.35, velvet trousers, £14.40, both by Polly Peck. Bangle, earrings, from a selection at Adrien Mann. All men's shirts from Turnbull & Asser ; trousers, velvet suits by John Michael. Make-up by Bonnie for Charles of the Ritz. Party hairstyles by David at Michaeljohn. Christmas trees and decorations from Harrods.

Wear a tinsel jacket—and look like the best-wrapped package in the room. Sam Wright flashes across the stage nightly in Two Gentlemen of Verona but is here brought to a halt by Renate. “Parties are very sensual things to me,” says Sam. “I lie around on big cushions listening to Beethoven or sitar music. The night should just drift away. I like my guests to feel free to do whatever they like.” Renate’s jacket, £13.35, velvet trousers, £14.40, both by Polly Peck. Bangle, earrings, from a selection at Adrien Mann. All men’s shirts from Turnbull & Asser ; trousers, velvet suits by John Michael. Make-up by Bonnie for Charles of the Ritz. Party hairstyles by David at Michaeljohn. Christmas trees and decorations from Harrods.

Inspirational Images: Brigitte Ariel, Piaf Imitated 1974

1970s, Brigitte Ariel, Edith Piaf, Eva Sereny, Inspirational Images, sunday times magazine

piaf

Brigitte Ariel played Edith Piaf in the 1974 film La Môme Piaf.

Photographed by Eva Sereny.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Sunday Times Magazine, March 24th 1974.

Tighten your belts – Conspicuous waist

1950s, 1970s, biba, british boutique movement, dorothee bis, Escalade, Eva Sereny, Fiona Lewis, Inspirational Images, sunday times magazine

Sweater by Biba and belt by Fenwicks

One of my favourite fashion shoots of, ooh, forever, I have no idea why I have only just got round to scanning it in. This look appeals to me more and more every time I look at it. Part of what I love about the Seventies is the way they were influenced by the styles of earlier eras, and yet the result is always so perfectly Seventies and, inexplicably, preferable to the original. Speaking for myself, anyway…

Photographed by Eva Sereny. Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, October 1972

“At the Paris winter collections no-one seemed to have any scruples about cribbing from the Fifties. However, Dorothée Bis, one of the most influential ready-to-wear designers, did it better than anybody else because the clothes managed to look far sexier than they ever did at the time. Big baggy men’s department sweaters; jackets and coats, swagger-backed or lumberjack style, in cloth or fake fur; tight skirts hobbled over seamed lurex tights – in fact, everything that could be worn with a waspie belt like the one shown here, giving more shape tot he shapely and hope to the straight. On the cover and on these pages actress Fiona Lewis shows how she wears waist-clinchers.”

Sweater and belt from Biba

Sweater is model’s own, belt from Biba

Waspie from Escalade

Waspie and felt skirt by Biba