A Peek at the Boutique: Howie

1970s, Boutiques, british boutique movement, harpers and queen, Howie, Howie Diffusion, Mensday, menswear, Mrs Howie, Steve Campbell

‘Casual clothes for men.’ The phrase used to mean T-shirts and jeans. But since Paul Howie opened his shop at 352 Fulham Road, SW10, the phrase has taken on a new meaning: ‘soft, comfy, easy-to-wear looks; clothes that you can just put on and look good in without trying’. That says it all. Nearly all the clothes are exclusive to Howie, but Paul (in the picture) wears a light brown tie-belted raincoat by Deardon & Fay; £68.

Photographed by Steve Campbell.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, November 1974.

Kissin’ Cousins

1970s, alice springs, Anne Tyrrell, aquascutum, biba, Borg, Butler & Wilson, C&A, Chi Chi, cosmopolitan, crowthers, Deirdre McSharry, Diane Logan, Elle, Henry Lehr, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, just men, marie france, medusa, miss mouse, ossie clark, quorum, Reldan, ritva, Sacha, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay
Pink and wild coat is hooded and all set to trap the unwary male. Borg coat by Henry Lehr, £17.50, trousers by Sujon, £9.50. His coat by C & A in suedette, £13.95. Hat by Locke, £5.25.

. . . or how to wear furs this winter without hurting your pet’s feelings.

There is nothing, absolute nothing quite like wrapping yourself in fur. As a sensuous experience, it is in the same class as a new love, old champagne or fresh truffles. But even the most hedonistic of women are relieved that the threatened species are no longer imported. Snow leopards, tigers and other cats can go their own way and sensibly sybaritic female will look for furs that are farmed, such as fox and mink. This winter, too, the fakes are so wayout and wildly coloured that only a girl without a heart could resist their charms, albeit synthetic. Perhaps that’s why the fur trade have taken the hint and dipped their favourite fox pelts in the dye pot, Furrier Maxwell Croft offers his explanation of the female urge to wear and the male urge to bestow furs: “For many men it is a primitive desire to see his woman in furs.”. Very nice, too.

Plenty to scoff at the end of the copy there, but oh goodness the clothes – the clothes! And the glorious photography of Alice Springs, whose work doesn’t turn up nearly enough for my liking.

Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by Alice Springs.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, November 1972.

Kissin’ cousin to a polar bear, but lots slimmer, is this smashing white shaggy coat. Wear it with white flannel bags, an angora sweater and an even shaggier hat. Well-cut coat in Borg with stitched suede edges. By Marie France for Quorum, £36, Ossie Clark trousers £14, sweater £4. Hat by Diane Logan, £5, shoes from Sacha £7.99. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Mike’s coat from Just Men, £70. Trousers from Aquascutum, £14.50.
The shaggiest coat story of the season-outrageous powder pink number, worn over pink striped sweater and pleated skirt. The dog is also fake, Chi Chi’s own and christened Fifi by Mike. Borg coat by Biba, £15, sweater by Reldan £3.33, skirt by Crowthers £5.75. Beads by Loewe.
Chi Chi turns her back on the world in scooped dress by John Bates for Jean Varon, £22. White shaggy jacket in Lister’s synthetic, £13.75 by Weathergay. Photographed at Julie’s Restaurant, 135 Portland Rd, London W11 (01-22) 8331).
How to have that movie-star feeling. If you want the big star treatment – breakfast at Tiffany’s, diamonds as big as the Ritz – dress like a star in electric blue fox. Dress by Elle, £15. Fox coat by Dinni for Femina Furs, £295. Moonstone necklace at Butler and Wilson. His outfit by Aquascutum. Velvet jacket £38.50, shirt £10.50, cuff links from £3 50, trousers £12.50
Tea for two. Mike makes up to Chi Chi (that’s the model girl, not the coat) in her shaggy yellow number, worn with shiny striped shirt and mustard bags. Borg coat by Marie France for Quorum £23.50, shirt by Medusa £5.50, trousers by Sujon £9.50. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Photographed at The Royal Garden Hotel, London.
Enough to drive a man wild-a nutty fake fur, above right, with Fifties shoulders and swing back. Wear it nicely over mustard crêpe de chine shirt and peg-top trousers. Both by Sujon, shirt £13, trousers £9.50. Borg coat by Biba £25, beret, Diane Logan, £4.50, shoes, Sacha, £7.99. His coat, Aquascutum, £70, trousers C & A £3 95.
Enough to make Morgan the gorilla, jealous. (Remember A Suitable Case For Treatment?) Emerald green gorilla jacket in real-life Borg by Weathergay, £9.50 (right). Worn over slinky knit sweater and skirt from Ritva, £27 for the outfit. Blue shaggy beret by Diane Logan, £4.50. Mike’s sweater in blue and silver by Ritva, £18.50. Trousers from C & A £5.50.
Jealous cats show their ruffled furs. Chi Chi and Belinda act out the classic movie-star confrontation in their sequins and furs, Chi Chi in pleated taffeta with sequin bodice by Anne Tyrell for John Marks, £23.95; her boa is silver fox, ranch bred, price £70. Belinda’s fox is red, also from the ranch, price £45, both by Barbara Warner for Fab Furs. Strapless top and trousers by Miss Mouse, £20. Beads by Loewe.

Knitwear’s Never Had it So Good

1970s, alice pollock, Annie Cossins, Crochetta, erica budd, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, John Craig, Kensington Super Store, knitwear, mary quant, Mike Magic, mr freedom, Syndica, Tony Moussoulides, Vintage Editorials
Emerald green pullover in pure wool, with multicoloured flying parrot, John and Molly Dove for Jasper, £8.40.

The knitwear industry has at long last pulled its needles out and has amazed us all with the most brilliant, zappy knits ever. One-colour sweaters have gone back where they came from—now you need at least three colours, and the brightest, most startling design you can find. Take your pick from oozing cream buns, bold geometric stripes and pyramids and all kinds of technicolour patterns—why leave parrots to the pet shops?

Photographed by Tony Moussoulides.

Scanned from Honey, August 1971.

Stripey rainbow knitted pure wool pullover, Annie Cossins, £5.95. Mr Freedom, Kensington Church Street, W8.
Mulberry and cinnamon Acrylic sweetheart sweater Janine at Harold Ingram, £2.25
Clockwise from top left: Brilliant block printed Acrylic mini sweater, Erica Budd, £3.90. / Hot orange wool boucle sweater with a cream cake motif, Crochetta, £8. / Scarlet heart patterned wool sweater, Annie Cossins, £5.95. Mike Magic, Kensington Super Store, W8 / Quartered Orlon jockey sweater, Erica Budd, £3.50. / Pyramid printed Acrylic sweater, John Craig, £4. / Zig-zag patterned Acrylic pullover, McCaul, £5. / Clingy bright blue wool boucle sweater with road sign motif, Crochetta, £8. / Lightning Superman printed Acrilan sweater, Syndica, £4.
Lazy daisy embroidered wool sweater in pink, navy and yellow. Mary Quant. £6.
Pure white wool sweater with scar:et and navy flower embroidered sleeves Alice Pollock, £7.
Pooh Bear mini Acrilan sweater in bottle green and canary yellow, Mary Quant, £3.

the pillbox

Browns, guy bourdin, hats, Inspirational Images, karl lagerfeld, Manuella Papatakis, Moravetz, Vogue

Here are the beginnings of a new silhouette and a new face, eyeliner, lipstick, not much mascara, a little rouge. Hair sleeked away somewhere. The hat: an uncompromising pillbox tipped over one eyebrow. Get used to it now, before anyone else.

Both hats by Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe, at Browns.

Veiling from John Lewis. Necklace, £6.75, Butler & Wilson.

Hair by Regis at Mods Hair, Paris.

Make-up by Moravetz.

Photographed by Guy Bourdin.

Scanned from Vogue, August 1972.

Black cire draped pillbox on Manuella Papatakis, daughter of Anouk Aimee.

It’s Cool

1970s, biba, Browns, Buckle Under, bus stop, crowthers, duc, florrie carr, Foale and Tuffin, Get, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, Jasper, lee bender, liberty, liberty's, ravel, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Pale blue sisal hat with peacock feathers, by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Rayon crepe de Chine long-sleeved dress with multi-coloured wild flowers on a navy blue background with ribbons on its tie belt, by Sujon, £14.50. Red tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. White wet-look ankle-strap wedge sandals. from Ravel. £5.99.

Fresh and pretty is the look you should aim for this summer, with maybe an inch or two of knee bravely peeping out from under floral prints on crepe de Chine or crisp cotton. Match your dress with brightly coloured tights and wear straw hats adorned with bunches of fruit and flowers, or a silk scarf and wedge shoes to complete your summer ensemble.

Photographed by Duc.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, June 1971.

Cream sisal hat with flowers. by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Dress with bodice gathered into half yoke at front and a long sash tie, in crepe de Chine with pale pink and lemon flowers on a black background, by Crowthers, £11.50. Blue tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. White leather wedge shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Red sisal hat, from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral printed short-sleeved crêpe de Chine dress in pastel colours, with artificial flowers on a décolleté neckline, by Crowthers, £11.25. Yellow tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. Wedge shoes, from Ravel, £7.50.
Straw hat from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral printed cotton dress with green, white and yellow flowers on puffed sleeves and skirt has a bodice of black cotton jersey, by Get, £5.50. Blue tights by Ballito, 40p. Yellow espadrilles, by Yves St. Laurent, £8.90. Navy cotton hankie tied over eyes by Herbert Johnson, 40p. Straw hat from Biba, £1.25. Cotton dress with red and yellow lowered print of puffed sleeves and skirt has a bodice of black cotton jersey, by Get, £5.50. Yellow tights by Ballito, 40p. Red espadrilles with rope wedge heels, by Yves St. Laurent, £8.90. Artificial flowers on hat, from Biba, £1.05 each.
Red cotton Liberty print smock with drawstring neck and patch pockets, by Foale and Tuffin, £15.50. White leather shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Cotton dress in panels of three different Liberty prints, by Foale and Tuffin, £14. White leather shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Rayon crepe de Chine dress with floral print, by Sujon, £14.50. White wet-look patent shoes, from Ravel, £5.99. Sisal hats, from Browns, £7. Silk scarves, by Jasper, £3.50. Tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. Hoola Hoops from Hamleys, London, W.1.
Beige sisal hat by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Sunshine yellow moss crepe dress with embroidered flowers at each side of the shirred, smocked-look front panel, by Florrie Carr, £9. Yellow tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Ankle-strap wedge sandals, from Ravel, £5.99.
Red sisal hat from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral crepe de Chine dress with a double collar, pin-tucked pleats, and thin tie belt, by Gillian Richard, £6.87. Grey tights by Mary Quant, 75p. White wedge shoes from Ravel, £7.50. Cream sisal hat from Browns, £7. Rayon dress with red poppies on a blue background, gathered into a square yoke, by Lee Bender for Bus Stop, £6.95. Red tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Wedge shoes from Ravel, £7.50. Red hankie around hat, from Herbert Johnson, 40p.

Cornucopia

1970s, Adrian Mann, Badges and Equipment, corocraft, crowthers, flair magazine, Illustrations, philip castle, universal witness
I. Red and white enamel and gilt bumble-bee with pearly eyes/78p. 2. Blue, green and red enamel and gilt dragon-fly/78p. 3. Green and red enamel and gilt dragon-fly/90p, all by Adrien Mann. 4. Red plastic may-bug, Universal Witness/75p. 5. Small green and blue enamel and gilt dragon-fly, Adrien Mann, 57p. 6. Antique nickel plated bumble-bee, Gay Designs/69p. 7. Red plastic bunch of cherries, Adrien Mann/95p. 8. Chrome acorn and oak-leaves badge, Badges and Equipment/45p. 9. Creamy plastic peacock, Universal Witness/75p. 10. Shiny red enamel continental tomato, Corocraft/69p. 11. Small house badge, Crowthers/ 33p. 12. Double daisy with green enamel petals and red enamel centres, Adrien Mann £1.08. 13. Spotty apple badge, Crowthers/ 37p. 44. Green enamel apple/69p. 15. Yellow enamel pear/69p, both by Corocraft.

Pin on a badge like one of these and you’re back to nature in a small way. Picture badges, winged thing pins, discs in the shape of fruit, flowers and plants-all are part of the new, slightly naive look in accessories. And whereabouts on your person, you might ask, do you actually pin a bumble-bee or a pear? Answer is anywhere. On your left sleeve. Let a dragon-fly come to rest at your hemline. Let an oakleaf sprout on a kneesock. Just let the badge be where it falls naturally.

Illustration by Philip Castle.

Scanned from Flair, August 1971.

Sheridan Barnett and Sheilagh Brown

1970s, gael mckay, Inspirational Images, manolo blahnik, Neil Kirk, ritz magazine, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, The Purple Shop, yvonne gold, zapata

Clothes available from Sheridan Barnett and Sheilagh Brown.

Shoes available from Zapata.

Jewellery available from The Purple Shop.

Model is Gael McKay.

Make-up and styling by Yvonne Gold.

Photographed by Neil Kirk.

Scanned from Ritz, no.15 1978.

The Fresh Note of Meadowsong

1970s, Browns, Inspirational Images, patrick hunt, Patrick Hunt, Vogue
Goya’s new fragrance sings of hayfields and hedgerows and clover and honeysuckle. It’s green but warmed by the sunshine – and the products contain the natural elements found in the waters of the famous French spas. Dress and hat from Browns, South Molton St, W.1.

Photographed by Patrick Hunt.

Scanned from Vogue, August 1971.

Your Mother Wouldn’t Like It

1970s, british boutique movement, Cars, Great Gear Trading Co, Inspirational Images, sunday times magazine, Vintage Adverts

Superb advert for the MG Midget, photographed in front of The Great Gear Market at 85 Kings Road. Some of the best photos of boutiques have popped up, inadvertently, in adverts. From my archive there is Che Guevara in an Opel advert and Quorum for cigarettes.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, 7th May 1972.

The White of May

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bilbo, bus stop, che guevara, granny takes a trip, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, lee bender, manolo blahnik, pablo and delia, Peter Knapp, quorum, Rose Bradford, Screaming Mimi, sheridan barnett, simon massey, stirling cooper, The Purple Shop, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent, zapata
Left: White cotton edged with red, lots of frills tied up with bandanna bows. By Rosie Bradford, about £15, at Quorum; Che Guevara. Fine white straw, £10, Herbert Johnson. White ribbed gloves, Kir, 75p. Red and white striped canvas shoes laced onto a high wooden platform, £12.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Right: Three deep cotton frills and a halter bodice edged and tied in red. By Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey, £9.95. Small white straw, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Peppermint earrings and clips by Adrien Mann, about £1, at Marshall & Snelgrove. White block and string shoes, £7.75, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Helanca gloves, Kir, 75p. Hat pins, from a selection at The Purple Shop.

more of it, less of it, what there is of it, frilled.

Preview of new white shapes you’ll be seeing when the sun’s hot: all cut out, cropped or split, beginning with flamenco frills piped in with red.

Well, it may not be May any more but this editorial feels perfect for the current weather. And those Manolo Blahnik for Zapata shoes? Pass the smelling salts…

Hair by John at Leonard.

Photographed at the Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens

Photographed by Peter Knapp.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.

Left: Small cotton broderie anglaise blouse under the shelter of a big frilled collar, with a thin gabardine skirt split front and back. Blouse, Stirling Cooper, £4.25, at Peter Robinson. Skirt, Screaming Mimi, £6.50, exclusively for Granny Takes a Trip. White Openwork Helanca gloves, Kir, 80p, at Dickins & Jones. White shoes, £7, Bilbo. Hat, £10, Herbert Johnson. Right: Buttoned padded halter bodice, edged and buttoned in scarlet. White pleated Colonial cotton shorts, buckled each side. Bodice by Rosie Bradford, about £7, at Quorum ; Che Guevara. Shorts, £5.95, Bus Stop. White patent shoes, £16.50, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. White straw, £11.50, Herbert Johnson. Hat pins from range, The Purple Shop.
Wide wide cotton trousers gathered on elastic, a gathered cotton halter top, the edge let go to frill. By Pablo & Delia, £18, at Browns. White peep-toe shoes, £7, detachable bow £1 extra, at Bilbo. Hat, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Earrings, Adrien Mann. Laced cuffed Helanca gloves by Kir, 75p, at Derry & Toms