Cover Up

1970s, Antiquarius, Buckle Under, caroline smith, Christopher Morris, Du-Du, Equinox, Escalade, Foale and Tuffin, forbidden fruit, harpers and queen, Illustrations, Le Bistingo Boutique

A holiday necessity—to entice your gigolo, or simply preserve decency on the terrace for lunchtime drinks — is a cover-up. We’ve looked around, found the nicest ones in town and had them sketched here by Caroline Smith. Some you tie Polynesian style (remember Blue Lagoon?) round you; others you lie on, or in; others are like the simplest dress slipped over your head to demurely cover you up (don’t shock the curé) for church-seeing.

1 Du-Du at 95 Parkway, NW1 are in for a sell-out this summer with their ‘Kangas’. Kangas, for the uninformed, are long pieces of cotton in a huge variety of colours and patterns. They come from Africa and act like a sarong ; they cost about £3 and pack to the site of a handkerchief. 2 Foale & Tuffin‘s new swimsuit will take you right back to Nanny and the sand-pit. White and orange spotted seersucker with a shirred bodice and bloomers ; £7.50, from Countdown, 137 Kings Rd, SW3; Lucienne Phillips, 09 Knightsbridge, SW1. Proving that the cottage industry is thriving, Christopher Morris and his wife Lera, with a friend, Hazel McKenzie, recently opened Habari at 39 Sussex Place, W2. Christopher designs all the clothes, while Lera and Hazel dye the fabric and screen-print it into luscious patterns. They also sell things like the small basket shown below. It’s in brown and cream string and really pretty; £4.25. The dress has a hessian bodice and a low back (or front —depending on how you wear it) with a short voile skirt: £18-50. Peeping out from under the dress on the extreme right of this page you can see their leather sandal, shaped like a trapezium ; £4. 4 Le Bistingo Boutique at 93 Kings Rd, SW3, have gone to town on the Piz Buin collection of swimwear. Its made of polyester fabric —see-through and also tan-through. The designs are rather Tahitian with bright colours and bold flower prints. There are sarong skirts to match the bikinis and make you more respectable. If these still aren’t enough, the bikinis do also come in a less revealing material. The bikini is £7.80, the skirt £10.90. Le Bistingo have also latched on to another idea … if you find that by some strange quirk of fate you need a different sized bikini top and bottom, ‘Huit’ ) now make them separately up to 38″ bust ; £5.50 the set at Le Bistino. 5 Equinox in Antiquarius (135 Kings Rd, SW3) is owned by David Scott and James Goldsack who have got together a fantastic conglomeration of stock from all over the world. It’s a haven for all Indian enthusiasts, as there’s a jolly collection of Navajo Indian carpets and jewellery. You can also buy Spanish crockery which is very, very ‘earthy’ looking, or if you prefer to sit on a prayer mat and sip your tea out of a little Chinese bowl, then Equinox can cater for both these needs as well. So as not to stray too far away from the point of this month’s Shopping B, they also do a very nice line in beach cover-ups ; this one is Mexican and hand-embroidered on cotton, £20. 6 Guaranteed to keep off sunstroke : pretty red straw hat with tanan ribbon ; by Buckle Under about f6.50; from Harrods, Knightsbridge and Darlings, Bath. 7 Essential beach bag to hoard biros and postcards — in canvas, comes in various colours (this one is green). £4.95, Escalade, 187 Brompton Rd, SW3. 8 If you like long skirts and dresses beautifully embroidered, and soft cheesecloth skirts with appliqués, then the place to go is Forbidden Fruit at 352 Kings Rd, SW3. We chose a long cheesecloth skirt with dark brown embroidery around the hem and a matching shirt with shirring round the waist and neckline. Very soft and feminine; sold together, £15.

Illustrated by Caroline Smith.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, July 1972.

All Together Now

1970s, Alexon youngset, anello and davide, Correna, Dents, Dranella, edward mann, Elgee, Escalade, Get, gordon king, Honey Magazine, ika hindley, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Joseph, Martha Hill, mary quant, McCaul, miss selfridge, Mistermonte, Peter Castellano, Reldan, Richard Shops, Stephen Marks, stirling cooper, Sujon, Twomax, Vintage Editorials

LEFT TO RIGHT: Yellow jacket, Stirling Cooper £13.95. Shetland polo neck, Twomax, £3.70. Scarlet wool jacket, Alexon Youngset, £17. Polo neck £3.50, from Joseph, 33b King’s Road, SW3. Fluorescent pink jacket, Stephen Marks £26 (sold as a trouser suit). Shetland polo neck, Twomax £3.50. Acid green wool flannel jacket, Mary Quant £17.90. Cable-stitched sweater, McCauls £2.40. Sunglasses by Correna. All trousers by Sujon, £9.50. Hats by Edward Mann; gloves by Dents.

Jackets are the brightest you’ve ever seen, with enormous checks and swirling swingy backs. They go with vivid sweaters and the widest possible Oxford bags, worn shorter than usual to reveal gleaming white lace-ups and tappy 46 two-tone shoes. What a way to get yourself noticed!

Second model from the left in the top image looks to be Ika Hindley.

Photographed by Peter Castellano.

Scanned from Honey, October 1972.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Bold checked wrapover jacket, Stirling Cooper, £20.95. Sunglasses from a selection by Correna; scarlet knitted gloves, Morley 80p. Lime green. royal blue and white big checked jacket, Stirling Cooper £20.95. Olive green gloves, Dents 70p; sunglasses by Correna. Sugar-pie pink, blue and white bobbly jacket, Gordon King £10. Royal blue woolly gloves, Dents 55p; Lolita glasses from Paris. Wrapover pure wool chequered jacket, Stirling Cooper £19.95. Sunglasses by Correna; gloves, Dents 80p. All skirts £3.50 from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, Wl, mail order 25p extra. Hats £2.40 by Edward Mann; sweaters £3 by John Craig; tights 39p, Mary Quant; shoes Annello & Davide.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Brilliant green, orange, yellow and cherry-red swing jacket, Stirling Cooper £19.95. Polo neck, McCauls £2.40. King-fisher blue, white and royal blue jacket Jeff Banks £12. Button-up jacket in orange, mulberry and yellow wool. Reldan £17.75. Yellow-yoked jacket in cherry red, yellow and royal blue, Get, £20. All gloves from Dents; sunglasses by Correna; hats £2.40 by Edward Mann.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Sunshine yellow waisted flannel jacket with batwing sleeves, Stephen Marks £20. Red and white pinstripe trousers, made in woollen mixture, Mistermonte at Dolly Day £5.25. Brilliant red, yellow and pink checked woollen jacket, Dranella £13. Plain red gabardine Oxford bags, Sujon £9.50. Pillar-box red wool velour jacket with tie belt, Peter Martin £9 from all brancles of Richard Shops. Navy and while pinstriped trousers, Mistermonte at Dolly Day £5.25. Fluorescent pink, yellow and purple plaid acrylic jacket, Elgee £30. Scarlet gabardine Oxford bags, Sujon £9.50. Red woolly gloves, Morley, 80p. All hats Edward Mann, £2.40; gloves (except Morley) Dents 70p; glasses Escalade £2.95; umbrellas with imitation ivory handles Miss Selfridge £2.45.

Flannel as a Platform for Colour

1970s, Adrian Mann, Alan Rodin, bally, Buckle Under, bus stop, christopher mcdonnell, edward mann, Elliott, emcar, Escalade, flair magazine, Frank Murphy, georgina linhart, harold ingram, harriet, John Craig, Joseph, Juliet Dunn, kangol, lee bender, Mark Russell, mary quant, Muira, Mulberry, Pringle, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, Vintage Editorials

Jersey wrap around jacket, Georgina Linhart £15.50. Shirt, Richard Green £5.50. Sleeveless sweater, Harold Ingram £2.20. Prince of Wales skirt, Emcar £22.50. Shoes, Elliott £15.95. Velour hat, Buckle Under £8.50. Clutch bag, £1.60 by Escalade. / Wool tweed jacket £20.50; wool tweed skirt £10.25, both by Christopher McDonnell. Shirt, John Craig £4.50. Wool cardigan, Harold Ingram £3.25. Hat £5.95; cotton scarf 45p, both by Herbert Johnson. Shoes, Russell & Bromley £14.95. Clutch bag, Escalade £10.75.

Bright girls use their grey matter and use flannel as a platform for colour

Photographed at St. Pancras Station, London. Hair by Gerald at Evansky.

Photographed by Frank Murphy.

Scanned from Flair, September 1972.

Wool flannel double breasted jacket and matching bags, John Marks £14.95. Acrilan jersey shirt, 14.49 ; striped V neck sleeveless wool sweater, £3.50, both by John Craig. Angora pull on, Kangol £1.10. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Canvas striped shoulder bag, Mulberry £3.50. Flower printed wool cardigan jacket with tie belt and matching pleated skirt, Alan Rodin £19. Striped silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Striped cloche, Marida £2.80. String of pearls, Adrien Mann £1. Patent shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each. Telephone wire bangle, Escalade 40p.

Right: Flannel tie belted jacket, £13.50; checked trousers, £5.50, both by Alan Rodin. Spotted silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Velour cloche, Buckle Under £8.50. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Pearl choker, Adrien Mann £1. Leather clutch bag, Cingula £9.50. Wool flannel stitched shirt styled jacket with matching pants, Muira £12.50. Long Giselle scarf, Ascher £4.25. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Leather shoulder bag, Terry Davis £11. Shopping information page 82.

Striped flannel cardigan jacket with matching pleated skirt, Mary Quant £12. Striped silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Scoop neck long sleeved lambswool jumper, Pringle £9. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Thin leather belt, Mulberry £2.20. Patent leather shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Printed pull on hat, Edward Mann £3.20. Telephone wire choker, Escalade £1. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7. Bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each. Flannel cape-sleeved wool dress with checked insets, Harriet £9.45. Peachbloom breton style hat, Buckle Under £11. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Leather clutch bag with perspex buckle, Cingula £9.50. Printed Acri-lan jersey shirt, £4.91; button-through long sleeved matching cardigan, £4.49, both by John Craig. Two-tone patent shoes, Russell & Bromley £19. Long string of pearls, Adrien Mann £2.70

Striped flannel belted jacket, £5.95; matching pants £5.95, both by Bus Stop. Dicel satin waistcoat, £6; matching pink silk spotted shirt, £7.50; white Dicel satin tie, £2, all by Juliet Dunn. Patent and suede lace-up shoes, Bally £7.95. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7.Wraparound wool coat with tie belt, Mark Russell £28.50. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Pearl choker, Adrien Mann £1. Patent leather shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Long Giselle scarf, Ascher £4.25. Horn bangles, Escalade £2.50 each. Luggage from a selection at Liberty.

What’s new Alleycat?

1970s, Alleycat, betsey johnson, Escalade, Inspirational Images, Sandy Lieberson, Vogue

whats-new-alleycat-1

It was this close-cropped straw-white head munching a hamburger that stopped Paul Young, Mr Escalade, in his tracks. Within minutes, Suze was the first London fan of Betsey Johnson, young American designer for Alleycat & Co, and pretty hot news herself. Betsey’s clothes were fresh out of the packing cases, en route to her own special department in Escalade, packed with sensational shapes like these … moving proof that Betsey Johnson knows all about shape. Welcome to London, Betsey.

All clothes by Betsey Johnson for Alleycat & Co.

Photographed by Lieberson.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, December 1971.

whats-new-alleycat-2 whats-new-alleycat-3

Mild Sauce: Emmanuelle Khanh at Escalade

1970s, Emmanuelle Khanh, Escalade, Inspirational Images, mild sauce, underwear, Vintage Adverts

If you can find this Emmanuelle Khanh bra anywhere else in London, we’ll buy it for you.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, December 1970

Tighten your belts – Conspicuous waist

1950s, 1970s, biba, british boutique movement, dorothee bis, Escalade, Eva Sereny, Fiona Lewis, Inspirational Images, sunday times magazine

Sweater by Biba and belt by Fenwicks

One of my favourite fashion shoots of, ooh, forever, I have no idea why I have only just got round to scanning it in. This look appeals to me more and more every time I look at it. Part of what I love about the Seventies is the way they were influenced by the styles of earlier eras, and yet the result is always so perfectly Seventies and, inexplicably, preferable to the original. Speaking for myself, anyway…

Photographed by Eva Sereny. Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, October 1972

“At the Paris winter collections no-one seemed to have any scruples about cribbing from the Fifties. However, Dorothée Bis, one of the most influential ready-to-wear designers, did it better than anybody else because the clothes managed to look far sexier than they ever did at the time. Big baggy men’s department sweaters; jackets and coats, swagger-backed or lumberjack style, in cloth or fake fur; tight skirts hobbled over seamed lurex tights – in fact, everything that could be worn with a waspie belt like the one shown here, giving more shape tot he shapely and hope to the straight. On the cover and on these pages actress Fiona Lewis shows how she wears waist-clinchers.”

Sweater and belt from Biba

Sweater is model’s own, belt from Biba

Waspie from Escalade

Waspie and felt skirt by Biba

Inspirational Images: How to make it happen on holiday

1970s, alice pollock, brian duffy, bus stop, clobber, cosmopolitan, Crochetta, deborah and clare, Deirdre McSharry, Diane Logan, Escalade, Gordon Deighton, harold ingram, Inspirational Images, lord john, Lucienne Phillips, miss mouse, Suliman, Tom Gilbey, Vintage Editorials

Dress by Elle. Shirt by Deborah and Claire.

Always happy to bring you another ‘lost’ shoot by the late, great Brian Duffy. Since Duffy destroyed his own archive, we are left to piece together a career from what was published in magazines or retained in other people’s archives. I try to scan and share whenever I can… I covet both Alice Pollock pieces in this spread, and love the man’s style. Definitely how all men should dress, always.

Photographed by Duffy. Fashion by Deirdre McSharry. Modelled by Greta Norris and Cyril Hartman.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, July 1972.

As an aside, apologies for sporadic blogging at the moment. There are a few changes afoot and it is distracting me a little from my usual magazine scouring and scanning. I will tell you when everything, hopefully, falls into place in the next few weeks.