Slipping into a dream with Zandra Rhodes

bianca jagger, seventies fashion, sunday times magazine, zandra rhodes

The last thing that Zandra Rhodes wants people to think is that they need to look like her to wear her clothes. Years ago an ex-partner accused her of frightening the clients. “People that really know me accept the way I look; I don’t try to look freaky.”

At the moment her hair – always dressed by Leonard – is short and orange-quilled, her eyebrows are a thin bright orange line, her eyelids half blue and half red, her cheeks highly rouged. “I think I was the first person to have my hair dyed green; then I put feathers at the end of it; then I had it green and blue. I’ve had this make-up since my show in April. I do a look to death. Before this one I think my eyes were blood-purple with silver and green round the outside and glitter-dots in the middle of my face for eyebrows; then I painted solid red all round the outside.”

Her clothes are as unusual as her make-up – she will frill, flounce, feather, sequin, print, dye and cut extraordinary dresses that she thinks look as good on the over-45s as on the young, slim and beautiful. Because her mother taught dressmaking and worked for Worth in Paris, she never learnt to sew or cut a pattern. She studied fabric design at the Royal College and has been making her own collection for only four years; her printing is done with her print-partner and boyfriend Alex McIntyre. Alex and Zandra usually work, at the print and dressmaking works just round the corner from Zandra’s Bayswater flat, from six in the morning till 11 at night, so it’s not surprising that Zandra has earned a reputation for falling asleep everywhere.

Four printers and seven dressmakers make everything – one dress usually takes one girl from start to finish about two days, and will cost from £150. “I can’t possibly compete with a production line so I concentrate on the things being really special, so that if you’re sitting at the dinner table you can see that the hand-rolling is as expensive as your jewellery.”

She already feels that she dresses “the so-called International Set” who pitch camp in London several times a year. To accommodate them properly she wants to open her own modern couture salon selling everything from furs to perfume. “I’ll work to make people look beautiful; I know that by an accident of Fate I can.”

Interview from The Sunday Times Magazine, October 1972

Dreamwear: Bianca Jagger in Zandra Rhodes

bianca jagger, jerry hall, mick jagger, seventies fashion, sunday times magazine, the rolling stones, zandra rhodes

Dreamwear: Bianca Jagger in Zandra Rhodes

I must confess that, beyond thinking ‘poor love, imagine being married to that’, I didn’t always have particularly strong opinions on Bianca Jagger. I knew the legends, and I knew she was a stunner with a propensity to wear beautiful clothes, but The Stones aren’t my strongest musical suit and I couldn’t work up much enthusiasm for someone who had actually bothered to get married to Mick. Don’t even get me started on the whole Jerry Hall thing (she should have been Jerry Ferry, it’s just not right….).

Then I read her section in Wendy Leigh’s excellent book Speaking Frankly: What Makes a Woman Good in Bed (which you can pick up for as little as 70p on Amazon these days). Most of the content is boring, some is sordid (hello Angie Bowie), some is misogynistic (hello Oliver Reed, surprise surprise) and some is really rather lovely (hello, ummm, Roger Daltrey. And Serge Gainsbourg, the old rogue).

Bianca’s is a lovely, long, rambling analysis of a Catholic upbringing and a rather sweet, romantic and restrained adult love life. Which doesn’t quite fit with how you’d imagine any wife of a Rolling Stone to be. Not least one who partied at Studio 54. But then again, Bianca has that other-worldly quality which rises above groupie, girlfriend or just ‘wife’. She’s classy. Much as I loathe Jagger, he did have awfully good taste in women at times.

So here is a stunning Sunday Times Magazine feature on Bianca, wearing Zandra Rhodes’s incredible creations, from October 1972. She is my new hair idol, particularly that last shot… Check back tomorrow for the Zandra interview and photograph…

Dreamwear: Bianca Jagger in Zandra Rhodes

Dreamwear: Bianca Jagger in Zandra Rhodes

Dreamwear: Bianca Jagger in Zandra Rhodes

Vogue’s Own Boutique

alice pollock, british boutique movement, chelsea cobbler, fulham road clothes shop, ossie clark, quorum, sixties, sylvia ayton, Vogue, zandra rhodes

A conversation with M last night got me thinking about the origins of the idea of ’boutique’. If it was a somewhat posthumous term applied to the era by fashion historians, in the same way that ‘Renaissance’ would not have been understood by anyone living through the Renaissance.

But then I remembered the veritable goldmine of information featured in Vogue in the late Sixties called ‘Vogue Boutique’ or variations on that phrase. So, I guess, no would be the answer. They did call it ’boutique’. This gem (featuring an outfit by Alice Pollock and another by Zandra Rhodes and Sylvia Ayton) is from July 1969. More to come, as and when I remember them…..

Designers and models

amanda lear, bill gibb, christopher mcdonnell, jean muir, joanna lumley, john bates, mary quant, zandra rhodes

One of my favourite Telegraph magazine spreads (May 25th, 1973) featuring some of my favourite designers (and, for a few, their partners) with their favourite models, wearing favourite pieces from that season.






How to make an entrance

bianca jagger, cosmopolitan, diana rigg, john bates, seventies fashion, sexy couples, Yuki, zandra rhodes
Last minute party sparkle: a sip of Dom Perignon champagne straight from the bottle, “That way I don’t spoil my lipstick,” says Bianca.


I like her style.

It never ceases to amaze me how many ‘new’ pictures of someone can turn up, even after all these years. Sometimes I wish I still had my Diana Rigg site, just as an image archive, so I had somewhere to plonk anything new I come across. Ah well, blogging is my only outlet these days so that’ll just have to do.

A fantastically frothy and superficial spread on ‘How to make an entrance’ from Cosmopolitan 1974 with Bianca Jagger, Diana Rigg (wearing John Bates, no less), Angharad Rees, Christophers Cazanove AND Gable and Rose Marie (who was in Stardust, apparently. I don’t remember her….)

Bianca Jagger makes a point of arriving when the “audience” is assembled and waiting…. actress Diana Rigg loves walking into a party alone-“I’ll leave on my own, too, if I feel like it,” she says. Singer Brenda Arnau stalks into every party as if it were the jungle, her silver ceremonial bracelets clanking. With one exception, our celebrated ladies chose dresses in dramatic red, black or white. A party is no time to hide your light under a bushel. So, as the actresses do, take three deep breaths-and you’re on, baby…

Brenda Arnau

Daniel Massey and Jill Townshend

Angharad Rees and Christopher Cazanove; Christopher Gable and Rose Marie

Holiday? Perhaps…. & The Marit Allen Sale

fulham road clothes shop, john bates, marit allen, sixties, zandra rhodes

I have just been musing over on Twitter (yes, I succumbed…) about how, in this job, one never really feels able to have a proper break. Even when torn from the bosom of the broadband connection and thrown into the beautiful countryside, there’s always that niggling niggle at the back of your head. Have five people bought the same thing? Does someone (heaven forbid!) not like their frock? Will everyone forget about me in the space of a week?

I’ve been quiet the last week or so, but not because I’ve been on holiday. No, I’ve been doing costume work interspersed with my usual vintage-ing. So no blogging, alas. It’s the first thing to suffer, but I promise you not for much longer.

I am, however, on holiday as of this evening. Nothing particularly exotic, unless the Norfolk Broads are considered exotic by anyone (I can’t imagine it, somehow), but a break nonetheless.

So I’ve tried to tie up all loose ends before leaving, but I thought I ought to come here and apologise in advance about any unanswered emails….and obviously I will be unable to perform post office duties until Monday the 14th. Coincidentally, this is the day before the Marit Allen collection is sold by Kerry Taylor in London.

I had the pleasure of meeting Marit once, and I do find it a shame that her incredible collection is being split up. However, it’s also an amazing opportunity for people to acquire some pretty damn incredible examples of John Bates’s work from the mid-Sixties.

And on top of that, there’s a Teddy Bear print Zandra/Sylvia blouse. Rare as you could hope for. Go, buy!!

The Mill on the Floss: Helmut Newton does Alice Pollock

1960s, alice pollock, bill gibb, british boutique movement, mary quant, ossie clark, quorum, zandra rhodes

I must admit that I don’t have a great many copies of Queen magazine in my possession. But a conversation about Alice Pollock the other day reminded me that I have one, frankly awesome, copy from 1969 with an entire fashion spread dedicated to Pollock’s clothes – photographed by Helmut Newton. It’s entitled The Mill on the Floss.

When the London rat-race is too much for you…you can retire to the calm and order of the country and gaze peacefully, restfully, into the depths of a mill-race. Ideal wardrobe for mill-racing – catch of floaty granny-dresses from Quorum. (Yes we do mean that long; we are rather serious about this.) Wear your granny-dresses with suede boots; after all, the climb through the mill may be rugged.

It’s funny really, how few Pollock pieces turn up nowadays. And the ones which do are usually the more Ossie-esque. I’ve had a few, all blouses I might add, and currently only own one labelled piece. But this spread shows you a bit more of her range, beyond pretty crepe blouses. Apparently her knitwear was extraordinary, and one person described it as possibly superior to Bill Gibb. Which is high praise indeed.

She had less of a defined style than Ossie, but her clothes were, by all accounts, exceedingly wearable and feminine. Less aggressively sexual, which is why it’s so interesting to see them photographed by someone like Helmut Newton.


It made me wonder if a lot of female designers in the Sixties had that problem, and why so few (aside from the idiosyncratic Zandra Rhodes, and master self-publicist Mary Quant) have remained in the public consciousness since the Sixties and Seventies. My own favourites at least, it would seem. The male designers were often the biggest drama queens, and have ensured their notoriety continues to this day. Whether through the strength of their designs, their lifestyles or just a knack for self-publicity. I’m sure there are countless exceptions to this rule, but it’s been occupying my mind today.

Anyway, enjoy the Pollocks! I for one wish I could be running around a mill, in the countryside, in Quorum clothes right now.

Christies: Avant Garde (a.k.a Miss Peelpants is in heaven)

1960s, 1970s, 1980s, alkasura, mr freedom, ossie clark, vivienne westwood, zandra rhodes

Oh dear oh dear. Just when I thought it was safe to come out from my little cocoon of New Romanticism and delve back into relative normality again after my break in Yorkshire, Christies go and post photos of their upcoming Avant Garde auction. I’m just a puddle of lust over some of these frocks, some you might expect and others you might not. But here are some of my favourites!

Ossie Clark

Pierre Cardin

Norma Kamali
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Let It Rock (Vivienne Westwood)
Zandra Rhodes
Paco Rabanne
Giorgio Di Sant’Angelo
Stephen Burroughs
Mr Freedom
Alkasura
Ossie Clark

But my envy has been eased slightly by the fact that I actually own one of the frocks. The ‘Love Me Do’ dress, as worn by Jean Shrimpton, is one of my absolute favourites and whoever gets this one is a very lucky lady!

Ossie where’s your troosers?

fulham road clothes shop, ossie clark, Things I wish I owned, zandra rhodes

I really want to see these sell, and sell well, because the temptation is unbearable. I’m a girl who loves high waisted flares, and I love the idea of vividly printed trousers in a reverse of my normal statement top-half. And these are a Celia print Ossie, there’s no more delicious statement than that. They’re the kind of Ossie Topshop are unlikely to bastardise with their Celia collaboration (I’m not sure even the uber trendy Daisy Lowe-lookalikes who shop there are ready for these babies).

So why don’t I buy them? They’re my exact size, even down to the inside leg (yes, I want to cry!) Well lack of funds for one thing, but on a point of principle I shouldn’t buy another vividly printed pair of crepe high waister flares until I’ve worn my existing pair. Which aren’t Ossie but they are a rare Fulham Road (Sylvia Ayton and Zandra Rhodes for the uninitiated) pair in Zandra’s early, and legendary, lipstick print. I’ve been itching to wear them for ages but they’re white, and they’re tight……so they still await a perfect opportunity, and one where I’m unlikely to spill things down them.

I also have a tendency to bust zips on Ossie trousers and skirts; most recently in Liverpool when I realised that Tapas and ultra tight corset satin trousers with old metal zips do NOT mix well. [Probably as well they broke before I left the hotel, otherwise the excitement of seeing Duran Duran may well have made them pop while I was at the gig.]. So another skintight pair of Ossie kecks may well go the same way, unless I refuse to eat for 48 hours before wearing them, and that would be either cruelty to vintage or my stomach.

So pleaaaaase, someone else buy them, wear them, send me photos and enjoy them so I can enjoy them vicariously and feel so envious that I eventually just CREATE an event to which I can wear my Fulham Road pair!

Right: Quick and rubbish photo of the Fulham Road ones…[Odette is having a day off – plus the lighting is shocking today!]…what you can’t see are the red ties which tie around the back. They came from the same lady as the chiffon top and trouser Ossie set you can see on my website, but those trousers don’t fit me at all. Darnit!!!

Doctor Who Girls: The Sixties

1960s, british boutique movement, doctor who, doctor who companion fashion, john bates, mary quant, ossie clark, zandra rhodes

Some of you may or may not know of my slight….slight obsession with vintage Doctor Who. Yes indeed, coupled with my love of Blakes 7, The Avengers and Sapphire and Steel I think that gives me fairly impressive geek credentials, no? A lot of it is childhood nostalgia, particularly in the Eighties series which I grew up with but also for the occasional Seventies story which my brother would acquire via third generation videotapes recorded from Australian TV, but even the episodes I didn’t grow up watching hold a magical quality for me. Not least because The Doctor was always adept at finding himself aided by a gorgeous companion wearing seriously groovy gear from her own time. Even the few exceptions to this (Leela – Warrior Princess and Romana – Time Lady) look very much ‘of’ the time in which the stories were made.

So I’ll start by introducing you all to the notable young ‘Who girls of the Swinging Sixties.

It began with the Queen of the Ankle Twist, Susan (Right: Carole Ann Ford 1963-65) and her Mary Quant outfits. Susan was The Doctor’s granddaughter and a schoolgirl of exceptional talents. The actors often wore their own clothes due to budget limitations and Carole Ann Ford has said that a lot of her gear was Mary Quant. The show began in 1963 and in many ways is an interesting time capsule for the dramatically changing fashions of the time and I think Carole was the archetypal Quant girl with her elfin hair and boyish figure. The clothes were fairly simple, little jumpers and cropped trousers or pinafore dresses and roll neck sweaters.

Her immediate successor was a young girl from the future named Vicki (Left: found on the planet Dido, I kid ye not!), played by Maureen O’Brien (1965), who somehow seems to have found the off-screen Tardis boutique and was usually dressed in a similar manner to Susan. Nothing extraordinary, just your very average girl about town for the time. Although it was 1965 and the advent of the mini skirt, her hemlines remained very modest as you can see in the picture to the left.

The ridiculously named Dodo (Jackie Lane 1966) was the next gal Billy Hartnell ‘picked up’, running straight into the Tardis from Swinging Sixties London of 1966. Yes indeed, Dodo was conceived as a trendy young thing designed to appeal to the more fashionable young audience. Sadly, she didn’t last long and remains something of a joke to most serious Who fans, but she wore some very groovy little numbers (as we can see on the right from The Celestial Toymaker [Sorry, I had to have a picture of the divine Peter Purves in his youth *licks lips*] she’s working the op-art look!) and deserved more of a send-off than the disappearing act she manages in The War Machines….

…..Which itself introduced us to Polly. Ahhhh, now that’s more like it! Polly (Anneke Wills 1966-67) was a modern London girl with long legs, long blonde hair and big dolly girl eyes. Her introduction was possibly the first time that there was a bit of a something for the dads, with her mini skirts and beauty she was more sexy and womanly than any of her predecessors had ever been. She was also, unfortunately, ill-used mainly for tea-making (Polly put the kettle on?) and screaming in her brief tenure in the Tardis and sadly most of her episodes have been wiped/burned (a fate which has befallen most of the Sixties girls to some degree or another). Polly was the companion who eased the viewers into the regeneration of Hartnell to Patrick Troughton, but eventually left him to return to her own time.

High Priestess of the Piercing Scream, Deborah Watling, entered the Tardis as Victorian orphan and Dalek survivor, Victoria (1967-68). Her transition from crinoline to mini skirt was swift and amusing but fairly inevitable. And she really went for it, from the modest little dress she dons in Tomb of the Cybermen to the super micro hippy girl mini dress she is happily traipsing around in by The Web of Fear, via a gorgeous tweed jacket and knickerbocker ensemble in The Abominable Snowmen. Victoria gets a hard time for her girlishness and screaming (utilised to defeat a monster in her departure story Fury from the Deep) but I think her portrayal of a fish out of water is very poignant and she would certainly benefit from having more stories in existence today.

Finally we come to Zoe (Wendy Padbury 1968-69) who, in contrast to Victoria, was a brainbox girl from the future. Zoe has achieved legend status mainly from her infamous silver catsuit in The Mind Robber and the arse contained within it, but she was also known for running around the universe in some eye-wateringly short mini skirts. The maxi was beginning to creep in by this point, out in the real world, but Doctor Who would not embrace the long skirt for a good while yet.

My favourite Zoe outfit is a toss up between the [what looks like a John Bates] mini dress from The Dominators and what may well be a Celia-print Ossie Clark ensemble from The Invasion. [They mention shopping at Quorum in the commentary for this episode, but her friend is wearing a fantastic Zandra Rhodes lipstick print Fulham Road Clothes Shop ensemble so it’s perfectly possible Zoe’s is as well, I just can’t see it clearly enough to tell!]

Zoe was sent back to her own time and her memory wiped, let’s just hope she managed to keep some of her outfits!