What’s black and white and summer all over?

1970s, Adrian Mann, bus stop, christopher mcdonnell, Conspiracy, George Malyard, Hans Metzen, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Leicester Shoes, Lizzie Carr, Malyard, marrian mcdonnell, Nigel Lofthouse, Peter Knapp, polly peck, stirling cooper, Sujon, terry de havilland, Titfers, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Left: Sizeable spot suit. Crossed small spots flared into bigger spots, bodice attached briefly to big spot baggy trousers. By Sybil Zelker at Polly Peck, £12.85, at Harrods; Edward Bates, Chatham. Black plastic chains from range of jewellery, white patent wedge sandals, here and right, £16.50, at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Near right: Cotton pique sun bodice, straps becoming sailor collar. By Stirling Cooper, £3.50, at Peter Robinson, London, Leeds, Norwich, Oxford. High-waisted cotton Oxford bags, £5.95, at Bus Stop. Plastic choker by Adrien Mann, £1.50, at Marshall & Snelgrove. Hats, this page, spotted muslin by Malyard, £16, at Marrian McDonnell. Opposite left: Spotty cotton halter, glazed striped cotton sailor trousers, by Christopher McDonnell, £4.25, £7.50 at Marrian McDonnell. Opposite centre: Batwing striped matelot, thin polybis knit, buttoned on one shoulder, by Hans Metzen, £4, at Harvey Nichols 21 Shop; June Daybell, Cheltenham; Ginger, Epping. Madly spotted belt with Perspex spot buckle, by Nigel Lofthouse, about £7, at Browns; James Drew. Voluminous stripe trousers, from a suit, by Sujon, £9, at Lord John, King’s Road; Butterfly, Hampstead; Pussycat, York. Scallop snake heels by Terry de Havilland, £14.99, at Leicester Shoes, Up West. Both straws, black with white crown, vice versa, £11, at Herbert Johnson. Opposite right: Cotton and Vincel knit halter all in a final bow. Checked cotton pedal pushers on shirred waist. By Lizzie Carr at Plain Clothes, about £3.95, £4.95, at Conspiracy from mid-May. Patent peeptoes, £19.50, at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Cotton drill halo, Titfers, £8, Liberty. All short white gloves, about 75p, by Kir. Hair by John at Leonard.

THE NEW SPOT CHECK ‘N STRIPE SHOW

Cottons crisp, cotton knit, hats as large as saucers, trousers wide, heels high, black and white giving positive power on a summer’s day.

Photographed by Peter Knapp.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.

Aloha

1970s, Adrian Mann, clive arrowsmith, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Max Factor, pat cleveland, Vogue, yves saint laurent

Gauguin got the message and in every island from Tonga to Tahiti, from Fiji to the Ile des Pins to Hawaii, his pictures come to life with beautiful girls in vivid sarongs, necks encircled with leis . . Here, Gil of Max Factor brings South Sea sun and warmth to the January ’72 face with Moisturized Nouveau Beige Whipped Creme Make-up, Honey Translucent Powder and Pinki Cake Rouge. Adds brilliance of hibiscus flowers to lips with Sunset Rose Lipstick and California Transparent Lip Gloss … and to the eyes with Clear Red Creme Rouge, lots of Transparent Lip Gloss, Grey Automatic Eye Pencil and Black Mascara Wand. Hair by John at Leonard, printed chiffon shawl by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche; earrings by Adrien Mann. Flowers by Pulbrook & Gould.

Model is Pat Cleveland.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, January 1972.

It’s Cool

1970s, biba, Browns, Buckle Under, bus stop, crowthers, duc, florrie carr, Foale and Tuffin, Get, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, Jasper, lee bender, liberty, liberty's, ravel, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Pale blue sisal hat with peacock feathers, by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Rayon crepe de Chine long-sleeved dress with multi-coloured wild flowers on a navy blue background with ribbons on its tie belt, by Sujon, £14.50. Red tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. White wet-look ankle-strap wedge sandals. from Ravel. £5.99.

Fresh and pretty is the look you should aim for this summer, with maybe an inch or two of knee bravely peeping out from under floral prints on crepe de Chine or crisp cotton. Match your dress with brightly coloured tights and wear straw hats adorned with bunches of fruit and flowers, or a silk scarf and wedge shoes to complete your summer ensemble.

Photographed by Duc.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, June 1971.

Cream sisal hat with flowers. by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Dress with bodice gathered into half yoke at front and a long sash tie, in crepe de Chine with pale pink and lemon flowers on a black background, by Crowthers, £11.50. Blue tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. White leather wedge shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Red sisal hat, from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral printed short-sleeved crêpe de Chine dress in pastel colours, with artificial flowers on a décolleté neckline, by Crowthers, £11.25. Yellow tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. Wedge shoes, from Ravel, £7.50.
Straw hat from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral printed cotton dress with green, white and yellow flowers on puffed sleeves and skirt has a bodice of black cotton jersey, by Get, £5.50. Blue tights by Ballito, 40p. Yellow espadrilles, by Yves St. Laurent, £8.90. Navy cotton hankie tied over eyes by Herbert Johnson, 40p. Straw hat from Biba, £1.25. Cotton dress with red and yellow lowered print of puffed sleeves and skirt has a bodice of black cotton jersey, by Get, £5.50. Yellow tights by Ballito, 40p. Red espadrilles with rope wedge heels, by Yves St. Laurent, £8.90. Artificial flowers on hat, from Biba, £1.05 each.
Red cotton Liberty print smock with drawstring neck and patch pockets, by Foale and Tuffin, £15.50. White leather shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Cotton dress in panels of three different Liberty prints, by Foale and Tuffin, £14. White leather shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Rayon crepe de Chine dress with floral print, by Sujon, £14.50. White wet-look patent shoes, from Ravel, £5.99. Sisal hats, from Browns, £7. Silk scarves, by Jasper, £3.50. Tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. Hoola Hoops from Hamleys, London, W.1.
Beige sisal hat by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Sunshine yellow moss crepe dress with embroidered flowers at each side of the shirred, smocked-look front panel, by Florrie Carr, £9. Yellow tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Ankle-strap wedge sandals, from Ravel, £5.99.
Red sisal hat from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral crepe de Chine dress with a double collar, pin-tucked pleats, and thin tie belt, by Gillian Richard, £6.87. Grey tights by Mary Quant, 75p. White wedge shoes from Ravel, £7.50. Cream sisal hat from Browns, £7. Rayon dress with red poppies on a blue background, gathered into a square yoke, by Lee Bender for Bus Stop, £6.95. Red tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Wedge shoes from Ravel, £7.50. Red hankie around hat, from Herbert Johnson, 40p.

The White of May

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bilbo, bus stop, che guevara, granny takes a trip, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, lee bender, manolo blahnik, pablo and delia, Peter Knapp, quorum, Rose Bradford, Screaming Mimi, sheridan barnett, simon massey, stirling cooper, The Purple Shop, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent, zapata
Left: White cotton edged with red, lots of frills tied up with bandanna bows. By Rosie Bradford, about £15, at Quorum; Che Guevara. Fine white straw, £10, Herbert Johnson. White ribbed gloves, Kir, 75p. Red and white striped canvas shoes laced onto a high wooden platform, £12.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Right: Three deep cotton frills and a halter bodice edged and tied in red. By Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey, £9.95. Small white straw, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Peppermint earrings and clips by Adrien Mann, about £1, at Marshall & Snelgrove. White block and string shoes, £7.75, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Helanca gloves, Kir, 75p. Hat pins, from a selection at The Purple Shop.

more of it, less of it, what there is of it, frilled.

Preview of new white shapes you’ll be seeing when the sun’s hot: all cut out, cropped or split, beginning with flamenco frills piped in with red.

Well, it may not be May any more but this editorial feels perfect for the current weather. And those Manolo Blahnik for Zapata shoes? Pass the smelling salts…

Hair by John at Leonard.

Photographed at the Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens

Photographed by Peter Knapp.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.

Left: Small cotton broderie anglaise blouse under the shelter of a big frilled collar, with a thin gabardine skirt split front and back. Blouse, Stirling Cooper, £4.25, at Peter Robinson. Skirt, Screaming Mimi, £6.50, exclusively for Granny Takes a Trip. White Openwork Helanca gloves, Kir, 80p, at Dickins & Jones. White shoes, £7, Bilbo. Hat, £10, Herbert Johnson. Right: Buttoned padded halter bodice, edged and buttoned in scarlet. White pleated Colonial cotton shorts, buckled each side. Bodice by Rosie Bradford, about £7, at Quorum ; Che Guevara. Shorts, £5.95, Bus Stop. White patent shoes, £16.50, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. White straw, £11.50, Herbert Johnson. Hat pins from range, The Purple Shop.
Wide wide cotton trousers gathered on elastic, a gathered cotton halter top, the edge let go to frill. By Pablo & Delia, £18, at Browns. White peep-toe shoes, £7, detachable bow £1 extra, at Bilbo. Hat, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Earrings, Adrien Mann. Laced cuffed Helanca gloves by Kir, 75p, at Derry & Toms

Hong Kong

19 magazine, 1970s, Alan Rodin, alice pollock, antony price, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, Bata, biba, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, Jolly and Marsh, lilley and skinner, Norma Moriceau, ravel, stirling cooper, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Palest green Dicel satin blouse with glass buttons, £5.25. Apple green circular skirt in silk and rayon mixture, £8.75. Both from Universal Witness. Green tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Red patent shoes from Yves Saint Laurent, £14.

The look is tarty—and where better to go for background atmosphere than Hong Kong, sinful city of the Orient, perfect setting for saucy ladies of ill-repute. In this rich, bustling East/West meeting point, with its maze of colourful streets and endless shops bursting with tax-free jade, pearls and cameras. one gets the feeling that beyond these elegant facades are hidden opium dens, James Bond intrigues, and seamy Suzie Wong bars. We took the ferry across from Kowloon to Hong Kong and travelled to Aberdeen—a small, picturesque harbour inlet filled with over eight thousand junks and sampans, ornate floating restaurants selling delicious, fresh seafood, and crowded local markets.

Styled by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1971.

The styling and clothes in this editorial (I mean, green tights and red platforms? Swoon!) are something close to flawless. Unlike the copy – which I have still posted as a historical document – and also, possibly, the use of local residents as ‘extras’. I occasionally feel the need to clarify that I don’t necessarily endorse all elements of things I post, but I also don’t think it benefits us to completely censor history – especially when one is creating an archive.

Satin print blouse, from Van Der Fransen, £2. Blue cotton skirt with white print and ruffled dipping hem, by Universal Witness, £7.35. Tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Purple leather sandals, from Bata International, £7. Satin shawl with black fringing, from Van Der Fransen, £5.
White sleeveless Dicel satin dress with large blue flower design, by Universal Witness, £14.70. Apple green mock lizard sandals, by Bally, £6-50. Bracelet from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
Moss crepe dress by Alice Pollock at Radley, £13.50. Tight by Mary Quant, 75p. Patent wedge sandals by Yves Saint Laurent, £14. Bracelets from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
White crepe dress with moon print and matching shorts by Antony Price at Stirling Cooper, £10. Ankle strap shoes, from Ravel, £5.99.
Cotton jersey halter-neck top and slit skirt in green and yellow floral print, by Alan Rodin, £5. Navy suede laced sandals, by Lilley and Skinner, £8.95. Bracelet from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
Black Tricel dress with beige print has cap sleeves and sash tie, by Biba, £8.55. Navy sandals with lacings, by Lilley and Skinner, £8.95. Neckklace from a selection at Kensington Market. Rings are model’s own. Flower from Fogg and Wakefield.

Put on an exciting evening face

1970s, barbara daly, Boston-151, Charles of the Ritz, Chloe, david bailey, Estee Lauder, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Charles of the Ritz make-up echoing the dots on Saint Laurent’s soft chiffon halter. New Segur Ritz Mat Foundation over Pink Revenescence Moisture Glow with new Real Red Cheek Pommade Cleargel blusher and Translucent Face Powder. On the eyes, new Moisturizing Eye Shadow Base under Green Celery Eye Shadow Pommade on brow bone and Seagreen Mist Eye Shadow Pommade in socket and over lid; Paper-thin Creative Colour Satin Liner in Forest Green, Chestnut Brown Brow Colour, Black Auto-Lashique Mascara. New Liqui-Frost Tangerine Lipstick and Premiere Peach Liqui-Creme Nail Polish. Hair dotted with Nestle Streaks ‘N Tips Auburn Hair Colour by Gerald at Mod’s Hair, Paris, make-up by Barbara Daly; chiffon by Abraham, earrings by Saint Laurent.

Take browns, oranges, greens and gold, mix them, match them and make them work for you.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Hair by Gerald at Mod’s Hair.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1973.

Estee Lauder make-up teamed with the new bareness of Chloe’s bitter brown top, crossed over the back, wrapped around the waist of a matching pleated crepe skirt. Estee Lauder Soft Cover Compact Make-up in Fresh Cream, Fresh-Air-Pink Face & Cheek Tint, a dusting of Sheer Shell Re-Nutriv Powder. On the eyes, Smoky Apricot and Apricot Chiffon Pressed Eyelid Shadows with new China Blue Eye Glossamer at outer corners, Black/Navy Lustrous Roll-On Mascara. New Iced Sherry Glossamer over Re-Nutriv Rich Rich Lipstick in Classic Sherry, with nails painted in new Classic Sherry Lustrous Nail Lacquer. Make-up by Barbara Daly, hair slicked back and banded with Nestle Streaks ‘N Tips Gold Hair Colour by Gerald of Mod’s Hair, Paris; Pearl drop earrings from The Purple Shop, Chloe dress from Boston 151.

Border Lines

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bermona, biba, Chelsea Antiques Market, crowthers, David Finch, Hope and Eleanor, Inspirational Images, kensington market, Mrs Casswell, petticoat magazine, Rosie Nice, Sue Hone, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Blouse, skirt and apron from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Jewellery from Chelsea Antique Market. Crowthers hat. Yves Saint Laurent espadrilles.

With the colours and the mood of an open air market are ribbons bordering the prettiest pinnies and the sweetest yokes.

Fashion by Sue Hone

Photographed by David Finch.

Scanned from Petticoat Magazine, 7th August 1971.

Smock and gauchos from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Hope and Eleanor pendant. Shawl by Ragamuffin. Biba mules.
Smock and skirt from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Shirt by Van der Fransen. Adrien Mann bracelets. Bermona hat.

Discerning Palette

1980s, Ally Capellino, Hair and make-up, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Sandra Lousada, Sophie Ward, yves saint laurent

Put aside everything you’ve ever been taught about make-up. Look at colour afresh, not as a consumer of cosmetics but as a painter might.

Oatmeal cotton smock by Ally Capellino, from all branches of Whistles. Straw hat by Extras from Hobbs. Palette and brushes from a selection at George Rowney.

Make-up by Ariane using colours from Yves Saint Laurent’s L’Eté Bleu collection.

Hair by Leonard.

Modelled by Sophie Ward.

Photographed by Sandra Lousada.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, June 1983.

What turns summer nights into midsummer evenings?

1970s, anne schaufuss, belinda bellville, Browns, chelsea cobbler, david bailey, Emmanuelle Khanh, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, medusa, pablo and delia, Simone Mirman, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Dress by Medusa. Hat from Herbert Johnson.

This is the moment for evening clothes that feel as delicious as they look… they’re soft voile or fine jersey or crushed muslin, they’re cut out over suntanned backs and arms, they’re crisp cotton printed with cottage curtain flowers, they’re as easy to wear as nightdresses: and some of them are.

Photographed at Lake Windermere and the Beech Hill Hotel, Cartmel Fell.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1972.

Dress to order at Browns. Hat from Simone Mirman. Choker from Arabesque.
Dress by Pablo and Delia at Browns. Hat by Herbert Johnson. Sandals by Richard Smith at The Chelsea Cobbler.
Clothes by Emmanuelle Khanh. Hat by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Dress by Bellville Sassoon.

Perfection and Delia

1970s, guy bourdin, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, pablo and delia, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Pablo and Delicious — heightened Ophelia eyes and lips, veils of colours • • • The Face by Gala: Honey Beige Barely There foundation with Swiss Candy Cream Blusher and Honey Beige Sheer Finish Compressed Powder. Eyes, new Pebble Grey Eye Pen and Matte Shadow, with Brownish Black Liquilash Mascara. New Riviera Red Supersmooth Lip Pen for a sharp edge. Peach silk chiffon dress, see again overleaf; sparkled palest peach organza mantilla girdled with embroidered silk lace : Pura, to order, at Fortnum & Mason.

Perfection and Delia — silks for clowns and angels … Something rare in a classic world — droll, beautiful follies by Pablo & Delia, who never make anything that bores them, and dress all the clowns and angels in London. Madly beautiful new year silks and the faces you’ll wear with them.

Pablo and Delia and Guy Bourdin – the most heavenly of combinations.

Hair by Valentin at Jacques Dessanges. Make-up by Heidi Morawetz.

Photographed by Guy Bourdin.

Scanned from Vogue, 1st April 1974.

Peach silk chiffon, right, overlapping like petals to the floor, two trains looping up to fingers, flowers of organza and tinsel, with lime veil leaves ; organza/lace mantilla : Pura, to order, at Fortnum & Mason.
Lipstick red frills, silk georgette, this page, with gold sequinned rose, red silk organza mantilla with blossoms : Maya, to order at Browns ; The Shop, 44 Sloane St. Golden shoes, £29, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Sizes, colours, see Stockists. The face : vivid, ethereal, a little fevered and flushed, eyes shining out of darkness. By Boots No 7 : Nearly Natural Skin Tone foundation with Cherry Stroke -A-Blush blusher, Nearly Natural Translucent Loose Powder ; Hazy Navy Shadow Mist powder eye shadow, Pink King Size Make-Up Pencil around eyes, Black Superlash mascara, Soft Brown Brow Shaper : Ruby Wine Lip Polish
Pablo and Delia – just dream dressing in silk follies . . Snow silk georgette, this page, sheathed around body, with sash of golden cord; breeze-blue organza mantilla, golden-edged flame flowers scattered by a zephyr : Narcissus, to order at Browns ; The Shop, 14. Sloane St. Snakeskin shoes, about £30, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Tigerlily red silk georgette, this page, embroidered with silvery medallions, tier on tier stitched round in white : Gala, to order at Browns ; The Shop, 44 Sloane St. Gold snakeskin high heeled sandals, about £30 Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.