Border Lines

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bermona, biba, Chelsea Antiques Market, crowthers, David Finch, Hope and Eleanor, Inspirational Images, kensington market, Mrs Casswell, petticoat magazine, Rosie Nice, Sue Hone, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Blouse, skirt and apron from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Jewellery from Chelsea Antique Market. Crowthers hat. Yves Saint Laurent espadrilles.

With the colours and the mood of an open air market are ribbons bordering the prettiest pinnies and the sweetest yokes.

Fashion by Sue Hone

Photographed by David Finch.

Scanned from Petticoat Magazine, 7th August 1971.

Smock and gauchos from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Hope and Eleanor pendant. Shawl by Ragamuffin. Biba mules.
Smock and skirt from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Shirt by Van der Fransen. Adrien Mann bracelets. Bermona hat.

Discerning Palette

1980s, Ally Capellino, Hair and make-up, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Sandra Lousada, Sophie Ward, yves saint laurent

Put aside everything you’ve ever been taught about make-up. Look at colour afresh, not as a consumer of cosmetics but as a painter might.

Oatmeal cotton smock by Ally Capellino, from all branches of Whistles. Straw hat by Extras from Hobbs. Palette and brushes from a selection at George Rowney.

Make-up by Ariane using colours from Yves Saint Laurent’s L’Eté Bleu collection.

Hair by Leonard.

Modelled by Sophie Ward.

Photographed by Sandra Lousada.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, June 1983.

What turns summer nights into midsummer evenings?

1970s, anne schaufuss, belinda bellville, Browns, chelsea cobbler, david bailey, Emmanuelle Khanh, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, medusa, pablo and delia, Simone Mirman, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Dress by Medusa. Hat from Herbert Johnson.

This is the moment for evening clothes that feel as delicious as they look… they’re soft voile or fine jersey or crushed muslin, they’re cut out over suntanned backs and arms, they’re crisp cotton printed with cottage curtain flowers, they’re as easy to wear as nightdresses: and some of them are.

Photographed at Lake Windermere and the Beech Hill Hotel, Cartmel Fell.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1972.

Dress to order at Browns. Hat from Simone Mirman. Choker from Arabesque.
Dress by Pablo and Delia at Browns. Hat by Herbert Johnson. Sandals by Richard Smith at The Chelsea Cobbler.
Clothes by Emmanuelle Khanh. Hat by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Dress by Bellville Sassoon.

Perfection and Delia

1970s, guy bourdin, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, pablo and delia, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Pablo and Delicious — heightened Ophelia eyes and lips, veils of colours • • • The Face by Gala: Honey Beige Barely There foundation with Swiss Candy Cream Blusher and Honey Beige Sheer Finish Compressed Powder. Eyes, new Pebble Grey Eye Pen and Matte Shadow, with Brownish Black Liquilash Mascara. New Riviera Red Supersmooth Lip Pen for a sharp edge. Peach silk chiffon dress, see again overleaf; sparkled palest peach organza mantilla girdled with embroidered silk lace : Pura, to order, at Fortnum & Mason.

Perfection and Delia — silks for clowns and angels … Something rare in a classic world — droll, beautiful follies by Pablo & Delia, who never make anything that bores them, and dress all the clowns and angels in London. Madly beautiful new year silks and the faces you’ll wear with them.

Pablo and Delia and Guy Bourdin – the most heavenly of combinations.

Hair by Valentin at Jacques Dessanges. Make-up by Heidi Morawetz.

Photographed by Guy Bourdin.

Scanned from Vogue, 1st April 1974.

Peach silk chiffon, right, overlapping like petals to the floor, two trains looping up to fingers, flowers of organza and tinsel, with lime veil leaves ; organza/lace mantilla : Pura, to order, at Fortnum & Mason.
Lipstick red frills, silk georgette, this page, with gold sequinned rose, red silk organza mantilla with blossoms : Maya, to order at Browns ; The Shop, 44 Sloane St. Golden shoes, £29, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Sizes, colours, see Stockists. The face : vivid, ethereal, a little fevered and flushed, eyes shining out of darkness. By Boots No 7 : Nearly Natural Skin Tone foundation with Cherry Stroke -A-Blush blusher, Nearly Natural Translucent Loose Powder ; Hazy Navy Shadow Mist powder eye shadow, Pink King Size Make-Up Pencil around eyes, Black Superlash mascara, Soft Brown Brow Shaper : Ruby Wine Lip Polish
Pablo and Delia – just dream dressing in silk follies . . Snow silk georgette, this page, sheathed around body, with sash of golden cord; breeze-blue organza mantilla, golden-edged flame flowers scattered by a zephyr : Narcissus, to order at Browns ; The Shop, 14. Sloane St. Snakeskin shoes, about £30, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Tigerlily red silk georgette, this page, embroidered with silvery medallions, tier on tier stitched round in white : Gala, to order at Browns ; The Shop, 44 Sloane St. Gold snakeskin high heeled sandals, about £30 Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

The Cover Up Look for Spring

1960s, Harpers Bazaar, Inspirational Images, Sarah Moon, yves saint laurent
The cover up look for Spring by Yves Saint Laurent (fabrics by Abraham, Brossin de Mere) in a multi coloured rainbow skirt that sweeps the floor.

Happy International Women’s Day! Here is one of my favourite covers, from the glorious Harpers Bazaar (before they merged with Queen and lost this lovely deco typeface, that 5s makes me swoon for some reason) and by one of my favourite photographers, Sarah Moon.

Photographed by Sarah Moon.

Scanned from Harpers Bazaar, April 1969.

Indoor Fireworks

1970s, biba, charles jourdan, cherry twiss, Chic of Hampstead, Inspirational Images, janet reger, Lucienne Phillips, ossie clark, quorum, Sam Haskins, Sheilagh Browne, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, thea porter, Vintage Editorials, Yuki, yves saint laurent, zandra rhodes
Sparkling black chiffon dress with plunging neckline and diamante embroidery, £250 from Thea Porter, 8 Greek Street, London W1

Japanese men are peculiarly affected by a glimpse of the naked nape of a Japanese neck. In Western cultures such excitement is generated by a panorama of bosom (as in this black chiffon dress by Thea Porter), or a smooth swathe of thigh. Here we show some revelations from the London autumn collections… hot numbers for the coolest of winter evenings.

All perfect for lockdowns, I’m sure you’ll agree! It’s also nice to be surprised by Ossie Clark every once in a while – with a corset being so vastly different in tone from what we would usually expect.

Photographed by Sam Haskins.

Fashion Editor: Cherry Twiss.

Hair by Paulene at Michaeljohn.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, 8th November 1974.

Cream and brown two piece with lace split skirt and boned top by Ossie Clark. Shoes by Charles Jourdan, 47/49 Brompton Road, SW3
Slate blue dress by Yuki. Approximately £,165 from Fortnum and Mason, Chic of Hampstead, Heath Street, London NW3 or Lucienne’s, 89 Knightsbridge, London SW1. Gold and jade bangles from Jones, 52 Beauchamp Place, London SW3.
White silk chiffon and net full skirt and sheer top by Zandra Rhodes, to order from Fortnum and Mason.
Black jersey skirt with split front by Yuki obtainable from Fortnum and Mason or Chic of Hampstead. Sheer silk chiffon halter top by Sheilagh Browne, £14 from Quorum. Black suspender belt from Janet Reger, Bottom Drawer, 33 Southwick Street, London W2. Black stockings from Biba, Kensington High Street, W8. Shoes from Yves St Laurent, 113 New Bond Street, W1 .
Corset and skirt by Ossie Clark (as before)

Hot Stuff

1970s, andrea pfister, christian dior, Inspirational Images, platforms, tessa traeger, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Extras of every kind that make the look, the day, the night Saint Laurent’s black ribbed roll-neck cashmere and lambswool sweater, £15. Satin shorts, £15.95. Beret with passementerie crown, £17.50. Suede clutch bag with brogued leather edge, £35.10. Suede rope belt thick with diamante, diamante disc, £30. Pins, one or many where you please. All at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Dior’s red plastic heart necklace, £10. Andrea Pfister’s green satin t-straps on a wedge of red glitter plastic frames, hot stuff.

Photographed by Tessa Traeger.

Scanned from Vogue, September 15th 1971.

The Party Dazzlers

1970s, Alana Collins, Anne Turkel, biba, Blades, bus stop, corocraft, cosmopolitan, Dana Gillespie, Deirdre McSharry, edina ronay, Eva Reuber-Staier, Feathers, Fiona Lewis, Hildebrand, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, just men, mary quant, Nancy Bleier, norman eales, Peter Bubb, Peter Finley, platforms, polly peck, Sally McElvin, sandie shaw, Stephanie McLean, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Dana Gillespie, the bosomy (43 in., actually) Mary Magdalene in Jesus Christ Superstar, is the most modest of party girls. At the show’s opening night party she turned up in her old gipsy skirt and a t-shirt, happily flashing her gold and jewelled snake rings. “Sometimes I feel like being outrageous – I just wish there were more parties to entice me out. When I was on my own I went to parties to see more people so I wouldn’t be on my own.” Alone only for the picture, Dana wears her snake collection, backed by a velvet dress and jewelled jacket, designed by her friend Sally McElvin. Pop designer Sally makes one-offs only, from £20.

In the words of Noel Coward, every girl ought to be able to say the morning after, “I’ve been to a mah-vellous party.” A little champagne does not go amiss, but this winter the clothes alone will put a gleam in your eye. There are enough sequins, crystal beads and glittering fabrics to guarantee you are the star attraction. To clinch the deal, I’ve asked some of the most stunning party girls around to give their definition of what constitutes a marvellous party and to put the most dazzling party frocks to the test…

Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by Norman Eales.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, December 1972.

Ann Turkel is the 5ft 10in. tall New Yorker who steals the limelight from the stars at film premieres, so parties are just kid’s stuff. “Parties? That’s when I know no other woman in the room can ‘top me’. I make a real effort – my mother has dresses made up specially in New York and ships them over – I never wear the same dress as any other woman. I know I’m a success when the photographers start crowding me. I like a man who appreciates when you are looking great.” Ann, who likes to move in a cloud of Youth Dew by Estee Lauder, comes on diamond bright in sequins and taffeta. Jacket by Biba £20. Red dress by Mary Quant £12.60.
Eva Reuber-Staier is the ex-Miss World turned TV personality who helped present BBC1’s Animal Stars. She’s cool, poised and gregarious. “I love parties, the kind with pretty girls and clever men. I prefer big parties; there’s more of a choice. I got to at least two parties per week.” The best one she says was given by some Cambidge dons. “Clever, but sexy with it, and could they dance!” Would she make the first move if she fancied a man at a party? “Fortunately I don’t have to.” Cleverly draped, sexy dress by John Bates for Jean Varon £36. Roses by Spectrum. Shoes by Terry de Havilland £13.99. Pop singer Gary Hamilton, star of Hair and several horror films says, “It’s the quiet girls who catch my eye.” Gary in satin trousers by Blades.
Alana Collins is tall, blonde and blue-eyed. “At parties back home in Nacogdoches, Texas, the boys used to call me the Duchess because I love to get dressed up. That was the original one-horse town, but in London I still like to cause a stir. There’s such a variety at parties – long and short hair. I go for the man who is paying total attention to one woman. And if you give him all yours, that clicks.” A lady who watches her strategy. Alana is the perfect Cosmo party girl in pink draped jersey by John Bates for Jean Varon £27. Sheos by Yves Saint Laurent £19.50.
Sandie Shaw sings for her supper. Her husband Jeff Banks, designs for his. United on most fronts, the Banks are divided on parties: “I hate them,” she says. “I love ’em,” he leers. Then they go on remember half a dozen great parties they’ve given including one in a char-a-banc to Southend; another on a river boat and a third at Madame Tussauds. “My idea of a good party is mostly fellas,” says Sandie, “but I don’t like him to look posh. The thing is, he loves me dressed up.” Dolled up for “that great party no one ever seems to give,” as Jeff says, is Sandie in a Banks special, suitably glittery in green and gold gauze. Sandie’s hair by Smiles. Jeff’s clothes by Blades.
Nancy Bleier, a bouncing brunette model import from Milwaukee, prefers her parties on the small size. “Just a few intimate friends, a quite dinner and dancing at Tramp or Annabel’s,” says Nancy who keeps her party figure by taking modern dance lessons. Nancy makes her eyes up like Sophia Loren, wears a lot of scent and generally sticks to trousers at parties. “My French boyfriend says: ‘Darling why don’t you ever wear a dress?’ He offered to buy me one – but never did.” Not downcast, Nancy dresses up for Swiss model Reto in a 1000 watt lime glitter outfit from Biba, top £14, skirt £15.25. Reto’s dinner suit from Just Men, £45.
Edina Ronay, the actress and model says: “A good party is when Warren Beatty murmers ‘call me tomorrow’. Actually the best parties are the ones I give myself – straight and freaky, champagne and – uh – cakes. The people look at each other and enjoy the difference. What happens afterwards – that’s what counts about parties.” Edina, who had her hair hennaed in Morocco, gets ready for her Christmas party in crushed pink velvet and feathers. Dress by Biba £15, boa and ‘diamond’ ring by Bus Stop, £6.50 and £1.95. Robert wears sequined jacket by Dior and ruffled shirt by Just Men.
Stephanie McLean, at 5ft 10in., is the kind of status blonde most men hope to meet at parties. And it was at a party where her husband, a photographer who specialises in nudes, met her. Says Stephanie, “Now when we go to parties we separate – otherwise why bother to go out at all? – but I keep my eye on him. I prefer relaxed, informal parties and almost always wear jeans. Sometimes I get dressed up and he says ‘you look fantatic, we’ll go out.'” Looking dressed up in a glittery silver and black taffeta dress by Polly Peck £12.85. Peter Finley the model who prefers parties for two, wears black satin trousers from Blades.
Film actress Fiona Lewis has the sophisticated face of the Seventies, so it’s not surprising that her idea of a party is simple – and expensive. “Lots of drinks and lots of people, never punch which is a bore and bad for your digestion. Simple things like smoked salmon and chilled white wine are best. And I prefer to wear fantasy clothes which I run up myself from scarves. I ask dishy men and tell them to bring their friends.” Fiona adds her own glitter to a black and white taffeta halter dress, Hildebrand about £18.50 and also a floating red chiffon dress aove right, at Feathers £25. Peter Bubb the model wears velvet dinner jacket by Just Men £35.

On the rocks

1980s, harpers and queen, helmut newton, Inspirational Images, Vintage Adverts, yves saint laurent

Saint Laurent Rive Gauche advert photographed by Helmut Newton.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, March 1983.

Left Bank Flowers

1970s, Bugat, Inspirational Images, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
All clothes by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche

Here the Saints go dancing by – bright frills, dotty prints, dancing lengths. Can this be strict Saint Laurent? The only black is a belt, a pair of wedge sandals; all the rest are new summer cottons, crepes, voiles, poppied like so many hay fields, spotted with colour, put with brilliant legs and purple espadrilles.

I don’t know about you, but I’m feeling like this is my default fashion mood for Spring/Summer 2019. Must hunt down red tights…

Photographed by Bugat.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1971

All clothes by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
All clothes by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
All clothes by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche