Remake/Remodel

alexander mcqueen, biba, bill gibb, bus stop, janice wainwright, john bates, lee bender, ossie clark, seventies fashion, sixties, website listings

It seems a bit strange to be relaunching the site after yesterday’s terrible news about McQueen. He was one of the few modern designers I had any respect for, because he was original and strived to be different. I never had the money or occasion to buy any of his work, but I do vividly recall gasping in delight at his work in Harrods (when I was 18 and used to go around there for kicks, and sneer at the finishing on certain other designers’ garments) and toddling off down the road to buy a very, very McQueen-y rip-off in Miss Selfridge. He had that kind of effect on you; his clothes (after you stripped away the spectacular catwalk shows) were pure genius and extremely womanly. May he rest in peaches (see my previous post about YSL).

Designers like him are what inspires people like me into our little niches in the fashion world, and I thank him profusely for that.

So…yeah…the website is back up. It’s been a bit Remade/Remodelled…..and definitely restocked. There’s Ossie, Biba, Janice, JohnB, Billy, Lee Bender; basically you need to go and have a look, don’t you? Go on, you know you want to…..





Ctrl Alt Ossie

billie piper, celebrities in vintage, ossie clark, seventies fashion, telegraph magazine, Vogue
Vogue 1972 

First of all, I would like to say ‘well done’ to Billie Piper for her gorgeous Ossie Clark on Friday Night With Jonathan Ross. Not quite so well done on commenting on how musty and old it smells, but she looked so damn awesome I will forgive her. I will also forgive her for Doctor Who-related things. Perhaps….


I love how swamped she looks in it. It reminds me of when I’m wearing dresses like that and how I adore that feeling of being swamped in fabric, so many things are so very skimpily made nowadays that properly billowing sleeves are something of a novelty.

It got me thinking of alternative Ossies. Because she’s really only wearing a ‘Model T Ford’ one. Plain black, buttoned front, billowing sleeves, puppy-ear collar. It’s a divine frock, but it was vanilla essence in fabric form really. I love getting one in to sell, I even love them when they’ve been shortened because they’re so plain I really can’t criticise someone for wanting to make it ‘their own’. They are the perfect vintage wardrobe basic.

But sometimes I come across Ossies in old magazines which you would just never have credited to him in a million years. Not because of any design deficiency, quite the opposite. They’re just not the convention. No Celia print in sight. No billowing sleeves or puppy ear collar.

I’m not even talking about the early pieces. The panelled mod gear, or even the frilly satin minis. I’m seeing it throughout the Seventies, when anyone might think he was surgically attached to rolls of moss crepe and silk chiffon.

He was a master tailor, and very innovative. As were so many designers. But when you become known for ‘a look’, it’s rather difficult to move away from that – or at least, harder to sell. So here are a handful I can place right now, but I will certainly post some more if I ever find them. I’ve not even seen anything remotely like these turn up in reality. If they did, would anyone believe they were Ossies?

The Telegraph Magazine, early Seventies

Hard to Choo: Another tacky Ossie rip-off

hennes, jimmy choo, Ms Peelpants' rants, ossie clark

Wandering around H&M on Boxing Day [Why on earth anyone else goes shopping on Boxing Day is beyond me. I was working two shows that day and had time to kill between them. No casual shopper has any excuse for being anywhere other than under a pile of chocolate wrappers, awesome presents and preferably a big fluffy duvet on Boxing Day. It’s an insult to people who would dearly love to be doing all those things, but can’t. Insanity.] I caught sight of yet another yawn-tastic Ossie rip-off. If you don’t believe me, go in there and see one up-close; it’s a duplicate, right down to the large expanse of flesh in the back, ‘mock’-crepe and wrap cut.

Somehow it managed to annoy me more than many have lately. Perhaps it’s because it’s Jimmy Choo for H&M. It’s bad enough for a dress designer to ‘take inspiration from’ another designer, but when you’re peddling frocks on the name of a shoe designer, then copying Ossie’s luscious ‘Cuddly’ dress is just an audaciously tacky thing to do (not to mention an astonishing breach of creative copyright).

Shame on you H&M. Shame on you Jimmy Choo (or Tamara Mellon or whoever it is behind this shambles). Saying that -elsewhere in store- I did buy a lovely pair of sparkly black lace tights with red flowers printed on them, so I’ve slightly [and grudgingly] forgiven H&M.

[Blogging really will be this sparse and sporadic until all Nuts have been cracked, but I’m still here…just about! Hope you all had a lovely Christmas.]

Random Ossies in Adverts: Part III

1970s, Make-up, ossie clark, Random Ossies in Adverts, Vintage Adverts

Who’s Wearing What: Penelope Tree

british boutique movement, david bailey, Foale and Tuffin, mary quant, ossie clark, penelope tree, petticoat magazine, sixties

I adore Penelope Tree; her hair, make-up, style, the fact that she still looks amazing (without having had surgery…at least that’s what it looks like), the fact that she survived being with Bailey, the fact she doesn’t feel the need to whore herself around for fame and fortune…..

I particularly love this article from the June 14th 1969 issue of Petticoat magazine.

In New York Penelope Tree is a top fashion model. You can’t open American Vogue or Harpers without seeing her dripping furs, jewellery. In England she’s more well-known for being Bailey’s Bird. What sort of clothes does she wear to please herself?

I got off to a good start by losing my pencil, every time I delived in my bag to find it I got butted in the bottom by Smudge, Penelope’s enormous English sheep dog. “And he’s still only a puppy,” she said apologetically, whacking him. I gave up looking, and she handed me a pencil. We sat either end of a vast black leather Chesterfield, surrounded by ‘naive’ paintings, Mickey Mouse and stone sculptures of sorts.

“I go six months without ever buying clothes, because I hate it more than anything else. I think I’m going to get all paranoic in the shop, specially Department Stores, I think I’m going to throw-up or something. I’ve been buying clothes for myself since I was 12 years old and it still gets me. When I do see something I like, I usually buy a lot. This dress, I bought at Maryon about a year ago. I liked it so much I bought three.”

She was wearing a full-length, green cotton dress, sprigged with tiny daisies, topped with a short black velvet vest, “a bit from a Tuffin and Foale trouser suit, I think” and thick brown brogue boots.

Apart from looking very individual and super, she looked as if she’d just stepped out of a trail-blazing Western film. “I refuse to spend a lot of money on clothes, I’d rather spend it on paintings. I haven’t got much money; you know I don’t earn any money in this country at all, and anyway clothes aren’t made well enough. The most I’ve ever spent on one garment is an Ossie Clark Snakeskin coat.”

“To the ground?” I queried.

“Oh yes, short clothes look terrible now, one is always inhibited about the way one sits, walks and runs down the street. I like to forget about what I’m wearing, not worrying about – are my knickers showing. It’s all right if you don’t worry, but I’ve been conditioned to worry about it.”

I sat there worrying if my knickers were showing, and feeling very butch in my short skirt.

With that, David Bailey walked in, bumping into a bounding Smudge, who rushed over to give a friendly lick.

“Bailey do you know Suzie?” Penelope introduced us and we exchanged sickly smiles. I always feel about two year old, being called Suzie, and surnames only always have a ‘God’ like ring to them. Bailey put on a record and we all listened in silence to Brute Force and his four letter word song. “That’s why it can’t be released,” Bailey explained.

I broke the magic by asking Penelope if she liked French clothes. “I hate French clothes, I hate the principle of the couturier. I used to love Yves St. Laurent clothes, only he started giving out this black thing and being in mourning for Vietnam. I think it’s the most hypocritical thing I’ve ever heard of, he doesn’t do anything about Vietnam, but make money out of it. Black’s okay if you have a figure problem. English clothes were wonderful five years ago, now they’re terrible and very expensive. Ossie Clark is the only revolutionary now, he makes pretty clothes, only they’re not particularly well made.”

“Can I quote that?” I interjected.

“Oh yes, I’ve told him so. Marshall McLuham says: ‘Fashion is a product of mass media, presenting ourselves as a showcase’. I think clothes just need to be comfortable. My wardrobe’s full of bits and pieces, I hate to throw anything away, I always think they’ll go with something. I really only wear about five things.”

I’d read she wore masses of make-up, literally painting it on every morning, but she hardly had any on.

“Oh sometimes I wear gobbs and gobbs, it just depends how depressed I feel in the morning. I think Mary Quant is best, but really best of all is stolen make-up, not stolen really but borrowed. Somebody else’s is always better than yours.

“I’m always amazed that all the individual, successful people ‘do their own thing.'” Penelope even cuts her own hair…”unless someone offers to trim it while I’m modelling”. I asked her why she wasn’t modelling in this country and she mumbled something about the tax man and then said: “I’m giving it up, I don’t want to hang about and become a has been.” Then she added much to my surprise: “I’m not in great demand. I started to write a book, then realised in the middle I didn’t really know what I was talking about; it was on the subject of Hinduism. I might go into films.”

With that Mary Quant, Alexander Plunket-Green, Bailey and Smudge came in and it looked like my interview was ended. We wandered down to the basement and spent half an hour searching for a picture of her. “Bailey hardly ever photographs me unless it’s work!” Sue Steward


Ossie Spot: Monty Python

celia birtwell, monty python, ossie clark, vintage fangirl squee

I spotted this the other night within BBC2’s Monty Python evening, but I must also say thank you to Mrs Daniel for commenting on my blog that she’d spotted it which, in turn, reminded me to post about it. I’m always happy to do a bit of Palin-perving as well…

Suits You Madam

biba, moss crepe, ossie clark, pantsuits, seventies fashion, website listings, xenia

Just listed over at Vintage-a-Peel, two stunning moss crepe pantsuits. One is a Xenia, the other probably is as well – but sadly the label has been removed. Both are heavily inspired by Biba and Ossie. Both are gorgeous.

Xenia are one of my favourite naughty rip-off merchants from the Seventies. They did astonishingly good copies of original Bibas and Ossies, which is just as useful today as it was back then.

Un-dress with Sally Tuffin

Foale and Tuffin, janice wainwright, loungewear, ossie clark, seventies fashion

Well I had no idea that the awesome Sally Tuffin did a range for Charnos. I know Ossie did, and I know Janice Wainwright did a range for Golden Charm, but this is a new one on me. I wantwantwant this dress.

Oh how I do love Seventies loungewear. It fits in beautifully with my dream world where I have the Hulanicki wallpaper, my Biba lightshade in use and a shagpile carpet…

Vogue. March 1973

Quorums for Quorums’ Sake

1960s, alice pollock, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, petticoat magazine, quorum

Scanned in a while ago, never got around to posting. I’m now posting them because I’m strangely uninspired for blog posts this week and need to catch up reading everyone else’s. I’m hoping that will change soon….til then, there’s always Ossies. And Pollocks. The floral frock is a Pollock.

Petticoat Magazine, September 1969, Clothes for Clothes’ Sake!

Random Ossies in Adverts: Part II

1970s, Make-up, ossie clark, Random Ossies in Adverts, Vintage Adverts

I think that printed dress turns up in several adverts spanning several years. I’m assuming one photographer or stylist had the dress and just plonked every model in it when they needed a ‘floaty’ look. I shall scan further examples in when I can!