John Bates = Happiness

grace coddington, jean varon, john bates, mod, moss crepe, personal collection, sixties, twiggy

You may (or may not…where have you been hiding??) know of my love for the work of John Bates. He’s a pretty important designer to me, and [via The Avengers and subsequent research] is a big part of why I have gone down this career path. I’ve met him twice and he has also, more recently, completely unwittingly and indirectly changed another part of my life. For which I’m very grateful, and which he will have no idea about.

Senti will be witness to the fact that I nearly fainted when I read what he had written in my copy of Richard Lester’s book about him. I had been wearing an early red chiffon Varon to the launch, and he wrote ‘Love the red chiffon and it fits perfectly!’. Perhaps that wouldn’t affect other, normal, people in the same way. But it was like a slice of heaven for me.

Lousy photo of a great dress.

Anyhoo. I don’t post a lot about my personal collection these days. To be honest with you, I’ve let go of a few things here and there. Other things need re-photographing. And several are still sitting in a no man’s land of ‘maybe I ought to sell this, really’. Hence I removed those sections from the website before I relaunched and haven’t reinstated them yet.

I am still trying to thin down the Bates collection. Which is hard. You can’t even imagine how much so. It’s easier to sell an Ossie, frankly, because I know I can get a fair market value for it. But Bates is still very ‘all over the place’ and I don’t want to gamble with such gorgeous frocks.

My plan is to have a comprehensive mid-Sixties array of his work. The varied, inspirational designs of his early years. Plus a decent selection of everything from then on, but minimalised greatly from what it has been. If I was having any doubts about this idea, they were swiftly removed by my most recent acquisition.

The really good, really early and representative Bateses don’t turn up very often. And you often forget that, for example, you’ve personally never seen an example of his panelled crepe work turn up. Or a dress with laced panels (which I also acquired last year, and need to photograph, sorry!). I’m very lucky to own a PVC example, and a dress with foil trim – those are pretty scarce as well. I love this dress. Passionately. I can’t find a direct photographed example, but it’s got to be from the same year as the Twiggy and Grace Coddington photos (below and at the top of the post).

Yes indeed. This dress makes me very happy.

L’il batch of l’il ol’ listin’s…..

bus stop, georgina linhart, harold ingram, jean varon, john bates, lee bender, mr darren, roland klein, seventies fashion, wallis, website listings


Woohoo! Finally. As many as the Great British Weather will allow right now (*shakes fist at dreary grey skies*)…..enjoy!

How to make an entrance

bianca jagger, cosmopolitan, diana rigg, john bates, seventies fashion, sexy couples, Yuki, zandra rhodes
Last minute party sparkle: a sip of Dom Perignon champagne straight from the bottle, “That way I don’t spoil my lipstick,” says Bianca.


I like her style.

It never ceases to amaze me how many ‘new’ pictures of someone can turn up, even after all these years. Sometimes I wish I still had my Diana Rigg site, just as an image archive, so I had somewhere to plonk anything new I come across. Ah well, blogging is my only outlet these days so that’ll just have to do.

A fantastically frothy and superficial spread on ‘How to make an entrance’ from Cosmopolitan 1974 with Bianca Jagger, Diana Rigg (wearing John Bates, no less), Angharad Rees, Christophers Cazanove AND Gable and Rose Marie (who was in Stardust, apparently. I don’t remember her….)

Bianca Jagger makes a point of arriving when the “audience” is assembled and waiting…. actress Diana Rigg loves walking into a party alone-“I’ll leave on my own, too, if I feel like it,” she says. Singer Brenda Arnau stalks into every party as if it were the jungle, her silver ceremonial bracelets clanking. With one exception, our celebrated ladies chose dresses in dramatic red, black or white. A party is no time to hide your light under a bushel. So, as the actresses do, take three deep breaths-and you’re on, baby…

Brenda Arnau

Daniel Massey and Jill Townshend

Angharad Rees and Christopher Cazanove; Christopher Gable and Rose Marie

Dear Vintage Gods,

1970s, jean varon, john bates, Vintage Adverts

 

I promise, if you send me this Varon dress, I will be a good girl. Never wear underwear with my Ossies, never hang my John Bates dresses next to anything Mary Quant, never mix Bus Stop and Biba and, most importantly of all, I will wear this dress everywhere I possibly can. Cos it’s just too perfect for words.

Thank you, vintage Gods.

Yours Hopefully in Tricel,

Miss Peelpants xx

Remake/Remodel

alexander mcqueen, biba, bill gibb, bus stop, janice wainwright, john bates, lee bender, ossie clark, seventies fashion, sixties, website listings

It seems a bit strange to be relaunching the site after yesterday’s terrible news about McQueen. He was one of the few modern designers I had any respect for, because he was original and strived to be different. I never had the money or occasion to buy any of his work, but I do vividly recall gasping in delight at his work in Harrods (when I was 18 and used to go around there for kicks, and sneer at the finishing on certain other designers’ garments) and toddling off down the road to buy a very, very McQueen-y rip-off in Miss Selfridge. He had that kind of effect on you; his clothes (after you stripped away the spectacular catwalk shows) were pure genius and extremely womanly. May he rest in peaches (see my previous post about YSL).

Designers like him are what inspires people like me into our little niches in the fashion world, and I thank him profusely for that.

So…yeah…the website is back up. It’s been a bit Remade/Remodelled…..and definitely restocked. There’s Ossie, Biba, Janice, JohnB, Billy, Lee Bender; basically you need to go and have a look, don’t you? Go on, you know you want to…..





Made in England

book reviews, Foale and Tuffin, iain r. webb, james wedge, jean shrimpton, jenny boyd, john bates, marit allen, sixties

I was lucky enough to be able to attend ‘In conversation with Iain R. Webb’ at the Fashion and Textile Museum last week, in my inadvertent and faintly ridiculous new capacity as fashion book groupie. Iain is the kind of person who completely awes me into silence with his knowledge and experience, so it was nice to be able to just take a seat and listen to him for an hour or so – without feeling like a chump for being awed into silence.

If you don’t already have a copy of Foale and Tuffin, then why on earth not? Put it on your Christmas list! Buy yourself one as a treat! Hunt me down and steal my copy! I’ll whack you over the head with my copy of Arthur Marwick’s The Sixties (a nice, hefty tome which would be perfect for book-stealing blog-readers) but I’ll forgive you eventually.

When I first heard they were actually planning to do a book on those fabulous ladies, AND an exhibition, I nearly squealed in delight. I may actually have done so, but I was in a room with John Bates so there’s not a lot I can remember from that night (if you want to put me on mute, lock me in a room with John Bates and Iain R. Webb and you won’t hear a squeak out of me).

My dream Foale and Tuffin outfit. Photographed by the incredible James Wedge.


The book doesn’t disappoint. As I have heard many people saying, not least those behind the project, the most appealing thing about it is that it isn’t a simple biography of two people. It’s like a window into their friendship coupled with a luxury chocolate box selection of Important People who, cumulatively, give a valuable insight into a most intriguing and endlessly inspiring period in history.

You often come away from fashion books with a strong sense of one person’s life. One person’s view of a cultural revolution. Often you can barely find mention of other designers within its pages; throwaway references to models, movers and shakers and maybe the odd two line quote. But here, in Foale and Tuffin, you have small essays created from interviews with the likes of Jean Shrimpton, Jenny Boyd, James Wedge, Marit Allen, Molly Parkin….oh I can’t even prioritize them, they’re all so important. It’s like a proper documentary in book form. In fact, I’d be a very happy bunny if they had been able to produce this as a ‘Beyond Biba’ style film.

In between the photos and essays, there are excerpts from Webb’s interviews with the gals. Much like the Ossie Clark and John Bates books before it, you’ll probably flick through it a few times just to ogle the amazing photos and barely take in any of the detail. But eventually you’ll find a window of time, when you can snuggle down and ‘listen’ to Marion and Sally nattering away. I’ve had the good fortune to have witnessed this a couple of times in person (although only tiny vignettes of F&T-ness, really) and have heard even more by proxy, so I’m delighted that an almighty natter with the girls has been recorded for posterity.

Why can’t more books be like this?

My two favourite candid photos of Sally and Marion from the book. I can definitely relate to Marion’s ‘Sewing Machine face’.

Britt-ish Fashion

britt ekland, Gina Fratini, jean varon, john bates

Dress by Miss Polly

I’m not a particular fan of Britt Ekland for the most part, but I am rather fond of this autumnal shoot she did for Vogue (by Patrick ‘Yeah Baby’ Lichfield). It’s so rare to have such a lovely feeling of space in fashion photos. You’re looking at the frocks, no doubt about it, but you’re also taking in the atmosphere of the location. The clothes are perfectly dreamy and her hair is completely and utterly covetable, in each and every shot. I worship this crimping.

Dress by Miss Bellville

And why do I not own this John Bates for Jean Varon dress? How has this happened? Something is clearly very wrong with the world...

Dress by Marrian McDonnell

Dress by Harriet

Outfit by Gina Fratini

Back! And front, and side. Fabulous from all angles

bus stop, cathy mcgowan, clobber, dove clothing company, jean varon, jeff banks, john bates, lee bender, seventies fashion, sixties, website listings

For various tedious reasons, I’ve been a bit quiet on the old website listing front in the past month. But I’m feeling much perkier now, more inspired and oh boy have I got a lot of goodies (just listed, and in the works…). Watch out world!

Right now I’ve just listed an incredible John Bates for Jean Varon dress (1973, just check out the original advert from Vogue), a chocolate brown rayon crepe Lee Bender for Bus Stop beauty, a Dove Clothing Company deep cobalt blue cord maxi dress (perfect for walking through wintry landscapes), a super romantic cream damask Clobber (a.k.a Jeff Banks) dress with flutter sleeves and trailing ribbons….and finally, a slinky blue Cathy McGowan dress with the most gorgeous sleeves and pleated front detail. Yeah, Cathy McGowan….that’s pretty darned rare!




Holiday? Perhaps…. & The Marit Allen Sale

fulham road clothes shop, john bates, marit allen, sixties, zandra rhodes

I have just been musing over on Twitter (yes, I succumbed…) about how, in this job, one never really feels able to have a proper break. Even when torn from the bosom of the broadband connection and thrown into the beautiful countryside, there’s always that niggling niggle at the back of your head. Have five people bought the same thing? Does someone (heaven forbid!) not like their frock? Will everyone forget about me in the space of a week?

I’ve been quiet the last week or so, but not because I’ve been on holiday. No, I’ve been doing costume work interspersed with my usual vintage-ing. So no blogging, alas. It’s the first thing to suffer, but I promise you not for much longer.

I am, however, on holiday as of this evening. Nothing particularly exotic, unless the Norfolk Broads are considered exotic by anyone (I can’t imagine it, somehow), but a break nonetheless.

So I’ve tried to tie up all loose ends before leaving, but I thought I ought to come here and apologise in advance about any unanswered emails….and obviously I will be unable to perform post office duties until Monday the 14th. Coincidentally, this is the day before the Marit Allen collection is sold by Kerry Taylor in London.

I had the pleasure of meeting Marit once, and I do find it a shame that her incredible collection is being split up. However, it’s also an amazing opportunity for people to acquire some pretty damn incredible examples of John Bates’s work from the mid-Sixties.

And on top of that, there’s a Teddy Bear print Zandra/Sylvia blouse. Rare as you could hope for. Go, buy!!

Tops-y Turvy

Foale and Tuffin, jean varon, jeff banks, john bates, lulu, seventies fashion, website listings

I will hopefully be back to normal blog programming soon, lots to share as always, but I’m in a ‘listing zone’ right now so I’m making the most of my prolificacy. Enjoy! There’s Foale and Tuffin, Jeff Banks, Jean Varon, Lulu and a superb unlabelled 1930s crepe bolero…..scrummy!!!