Kathleen Tynan by Norman Parkinson

barbara daly, Hair and make-up, Kathleen Tynan, norman parkinson, thea porter, Vogue
With her vivid dark blonde hair, shining hazel eyes and pale skin, Mrs Tynan looks marvellous in white: here it’s her Thea Porter dress of white voile embroiderpd in green and bronze. She wears Balenciaga scent Le Dix; the Eau de Toilette during the day, and the scent at night. Some time ago Mr Tynan had made for her a copy of the dress that Garbo wore in As You Desire Me”; a delicious compliment. “I use Hydriane by Dr Payot, powder, mascara and a bit of green eye shadow. Eyeliner in the evening. I’m skinny and I’d like to be fatter, but no one can tell me how. I sometimes exercise at Lotte Berk, but more often don’t, and I like swimming in warm waters.” She loves roses and cornflowers, her favourite restaurant is L’Etoile “for sentimental reasons and because it has the best food in London.” Here, her hair by David of Michaeljohn, her make-up by Barbara Daly.

Kathleen and Kenneth Tynan live in Kensington with their children, Roxana, 5, and Matthew, 2, when they’re not abroad: they’re often either just off or just back – now it’s just back from four weeks in a cottage in Wales. Kathleen Tynan is an excellent journalist, specialising in arts features and interviews, and is working on her first book.

Photographed by Norman Parkinson.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, 1973.

The Prints of Darkness

1970s, barbara daly, charles jourdan, Chloe, christian dior, francois lamy, Franka, Garrard, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, missoni, N. Bloom, Yuki
Orange and yellow printed Liberty silk harem suit with loose divided skirt cuffed in orange silk at ankles by Yuki. Jade disc and 24ct gold necklace and bracelet by N. Bloom.

Hair by Alex at Ginger Group.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Francois Lamy.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, May 1975.

Long skirt and shawl in orange, purple and mauve printed jersey. Mauve vest and mauve and beige belt. All by Missoni from Browns.
Lilac, pink and mauve crepe de Chine evening dress in tiny flower sprig print with purple edged poncho by Christian Dior-London. Coral, gold and green mother of pearl bead necklace from Jones. Diamond and gold bangle from Garrard.
Lilac crepe de Chine evening robe, printed with orchids in darker lilac and pale print by Chloé at Browns. Opaque glass and amethyst necklaces from N. Bloom. Pale lilac kid shoes with wedge heels by Charles Jourdan.
Orange and pink hand-printed chiffon dress with ruff collar, made to measure by Franka. Long coral beads by N. Bloom. Coral kid strappy sandals by Charles Jourdan.

Go Jet

Antiquarius, barbara daly, barry lategan, Butler & Wilson, Cathee Dahmen, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, pablo and delia, Vogue
Spangled georgette ruff cape and dress by Pablo and Delia, about £90 at Browns. Rings and bangles from Butler and Wilson, Antiquarius.

Modelled by Cathee Dahmen.

Hair by John at Leonard. Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, January 1973.

Take a flower for your hair

1970s, barbara daly, barry lategan, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Mouche (model), pablo and delia, Vogue

Take a flower for your hair, gather up a halter top, now dust on the glamour…

First flower, airy petals of summer pink net, outlined in white stitching, round white button for stamens. By Pablo and Delia, to order at Browns. Ruched halter top, flower printed seersucker, also by Pablo and Delia.

Make-up by Barbara Daly. Hair by John at Leonard. Model is Mouche.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.

Inspirational Images: Sheer Geniuses

1970s, barbara daly, celia birtwell, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, vidal sassoon, Vogue

ossie bailey vogue july 74 a

“What are Vidal Sassoon, Barbara Daly and Ossie Clark doing in Vogue studios? Vidal did the hair, Barbara the make-up, Ossie designed the dress … Lipstick matched to the flowers in Celia Birtwell’s printed chiffon. Ossie Clark twined his own gold chain and lizard over the shoulder and, snap, David Bailey. Dress to order from Ossie Clark.”

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, July 1974

ossie bailey vogue july 74 b

Inspirational Images: Annabel Hodin in Ossie Clark

1970s, Annabel Hodin, barbara daly, Barry McKinley, british boutique movement, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, Vintage Editorials

ossie clark harpers queen february 73 b

Out on a limb… Ossie Clark as always. His new collection bristles with exclamation marks that point to Ossie the inimitable – the coat-hanger shoulders on his suits, the bright bunches-of-flowers prints by Celia Birtwell, the fluid lines and bosomy curves of his dresses.

Annabel Hodin, twenty-four years old, and a girl who believes in extremes. She changes the way she looks with the seasons, likes to be very, very brown in summer, white in winter, wears little make-up by day, lots at night. Daughter of Dr Josef Hodin the art historian, she lives in Hampstead, loves London, feels European, is at home everywhere.

Photographed by Barry McKinley at the home of Michael Chiu, owner of the Chiu Gallery. Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, February 1973

ossie clark harpers queen february 73 d

The Tight-Ass Suit

1970s, barbara daly, bus stop, Chris Trill, christa peters, cosmopolitan, Courtney Reed, Howie Diffusion, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Liz Smith, Midas, Pamela Frances, Pancaldi, Sacha, Stephen Marks, strawberry studio, Tatters, Vintage Editorials

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Suit by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Belt by Chris Trill. Shoes from Midas.

“Start squaring your shoulders, tightening your belt and walking on four-inch heels…”

A phenomenal editorial which feels very ahead of its time. This is really the birth of ‘Power Dressing’, from February 1979. There’s a curious juxtaposition of old and new, the old telephone and boudoir chair in the final photo suggest the origins of these suits in the Forties while the clunky ‘mobile phone’ is the signpost to the unknown future. Pre-Eighties and pre-Thatcher (just) – even pre-Miss Peelpants (also, just!) – there’s something quite charming about the modest silhouette here – which is really rather hard to equate with the horrors which were to come. These feel more in line with the New Romantic and Goth garments from the 1980s which I feel passionate about and choose to collect (like Sarah Whitworth, Symphony of Shadows etc), than with Yuppies and Dynasty, although you can just as equally see their genesis here.

Photographed by Christa Peters. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmpolitan, February 1979.

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Suit by Wallis. Silk camisole by Tatters. Shoes from Pancaldi.

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Jute tweed suit by Strawberry Studio. Bag by Butler and Wilson. Shoes from Russell & Bromley.

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Cotton cord suit by Howie Diffusion. Camisole from Tatters. Belt by Courtney Reed. Shoes from Pancaldi.

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Three piece suit by Daily Blue. Shirt by Riva. Purse and shoes by Pancaldi.

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Suit by Stephen Marks. Shirt by Pamela Frances. Belt by Courtney Reed. Shoes from Pancaldi.

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Wool crepe suit by Jaeger. Shoes by Pancaldi.

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Suit with the wiest shoulders and narrowest skirt by Strawberry Studio. Suede shoes by Sacha.

Inspirational Images: Your health too, Mr Bottomley

1970s, barbara daly, caroline baker, chelsea cobbler, hans feurer, Inspirational Images, mary quant, mild sauce, nostalgia, nova magazine, tights

Nova, February 1972

One of my favourite images from a Vargas-inspired spread in Nova, photographed by Hans Feurer. I will scan the others in time, but they all deserve solo appreciation. I think I would actually give my firstborn for those Chelsea Cobbler shoes. Red leather AND stars? Fetch my smelling salts!

I’ve said it before, and I will say it again, there is something about the Seventies take on Forties style (and particularly pin-ups) which I find infinitely more appealing than the originals or the tired current trend for such things.

It takes all the glamour and sauce, but gives it that subversive, pop art-esque treatment so typical of designers like Tommy Roberts, Terry de Havilland and Rae Spencer-Cullen for Miss Mouse (amongst so many other Vintage-a-Peel favourites). The models look quirky, confident and very knowing; I never get a sense of exploitation or submission. Even the tagline ‘exploitation can be fun’ is perfectly pitched and mocking both the exploiters and the prudes. Viva la Seventies!

The most nostalgic clothes of all…

1930s, barbara daly, barbara trentham, gala, ginger rogers, harpers and queen, hollywood icons, maureen o'hara, mr fish, ossie clark, patrick procktor, rosalind russell

Rosalind Russell wore this soft grey georgette evening dress with cross-draped bodice, for The Velvet Touch.

[Proving that nostalgia is nothing new…]

You are forgiven if you think the pictures on these pages are fashion circa 1971. In a sense, they are; but in fact, these are original Hollywood – the clothes of the stars, people like Bette Davis, Katherine Hepburn, Olivia de Havilland, Jean Seberg, Shirley Temple — worn in their films, coming up for a gala auction at Sotheby’s Pantechnicon in Motcomb Street at 7pm on December 1.

The man who made it possible is Michael Fish — Mr Fish, no less — who bought the whole collection of 30s, 40s and 50s creations from Max Berman & Son of Hollywood, and is putting them to auction in aid of Immigrant Community Services. So you could help to provide a new children’s playground in Brixton, say, while treating yourself to a great fashion original . . . like Jane Russell’s navy pleated chiffon coat over crepe culottes ; Bonita Granville’s pink chiffon dress with Alencon lace and fine pleating; not to mention the original mini worn by Betty Hutton in Annie Get Your Gun. 

Patrick Procktor is contributing to the programme for Mr Fish’s ‘frock fantasy’. Ossie Clark’s sensational model, Gala, will wear some of the clothes, as she did for us in company with Barbara Trentham. Make-up here by Barbara Daly; hair by Smile; location, Mr Paul Hamlyn’s house. 

Harpers and Queen, December 1971. Photographs by Tim Street-Porter

Square-shouldered 40s suits, as worn by Maureen O’Hara and Ginger Rogers.

Agnes Moorehead starred in this vampy black crepe dress with sequins and a matching shoulder cape fastened with jet.

Inspirational Images: Pre-Raphaelite hair

barbara daly, barry lategan, hair, leonard, Make-up, seventies fashion, Vogue
 
Photographed by Barry Lategan. Hair by John at Leonard. Make-up by Barbara Daly.
Vogue, February 1975