Every girl, if only once in her life, gets the opportunity to eat out at one of London’s smart restaurants. so when the time comes you may as well make the most of it. The main thing is not to feel intimidated by your surroundings. but to be very cool and nonchalant. as if you do it all the time. (No slumping down in your seat or staring around the room with your mouth open.) If you just don’t understand the menu. ask your escort or the waiter. don’t just point to something and hope for the best. Make sure your hair is clean and shiny. and please don’t have it set and lacquered (very uncool). Wear some-thing soft and romantic in crêpe or voile, that moves well when you walk. or a halter-neck dress with a low back to make the most of the remains of your summer tan. Make sure your dress length isn’t mini (it might be the only one in the room. and then they’ll all know you’re from out of town). Don’t spoil the effect of your midi with the wrong accessories—wear a pair of new Granny shoes with the higher heel and bar strap for added authentic ‘Forties’ glamour.
Ignoring the title (which I have, as always, left for posterity) this editorial is pretty damn perfect. On the cusp of what we more clearly think of as ‘Seventies’, just before platforms and the extremes of Glam, but turning its back very determinedly on the ‘Swinging Sixties’ and looking further back with nostalgic eyes. It’s also a delicious, possibly unique, snapshot of the most fashionable restaurants in London at the time.
Remember those Joan Crawford, Bette Davis, Hollywood weepies where men were heroes and women were fluttery, feminine creatures who stayed at home, controlling the tremble in their lower lips when the boys went off to war? Well, the best of the Joan Crawford era has finally hit town, and few designers have caught on to the ‘Forties look as successfully as Sheridan Barnett of Tony Berkeley. A talented twenty-three-year-old, he is one of the newest designers to emerge in London. He obviously likes women to be women as his clothes are beautifully cut and styled and are entirely feminine. He has a keen eye for line and simple detail which he carries through in his choice of fabric. All the dresses photographed (available from the Way In at Harrods) are in Tricel and show how important shape has become again. The clothes are seductive with the emphasis on simplicity and style …
Left: Green felt hat from Bombacha. Grey crepe top and matching skirt both by Strawberry Studio. Gloves by Tuttabankem. Silk scarf by Eddie Yap for Howie. Right: Navy blue hat by Charles Batten. Green crepe top and matching skirt by Strawberry Studio. Gloves by Tuttabankem. Scarf from Essences. Brooch from Bombacha.
Skirts are big news! They come in soft, pretty fabrics like crepe and flanesta. Looks are soft and sweet too. So go feminine. Wear skirts that are full, and keep warm with chunky sweaters and long, knitted scarves.
Photographed by Arthur Elgort.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, October 1974.
Left: Rust felt hat by Marida. Rust crepe de chine suit by Marie France. Mixed tweedy cardigan by Outlander. Brown leather shoes by Bombacha. Scarf by Eddie Yap for Howie. Bag from Nostalgia. Right: Hat by Edward Mann. Cream blouse and grey crepe de chine suit all by Marie France. Huge grey cardigan by Crochetta. Grey lace up shoes from Sacha. Silky scarf by Eddie Yap for Howie. Brooch from Bombacha.
Left: Hat by Edward Mann. Blouse by Garilee. Wool cardigan by Johnson & Johnson. Skirt from C&A. Shoes from Sacha. Right: Hat from Bombacha. Green blouse by Garilee. Wool v-neck top by Outlander. Cardigan by Johnson & Johnson. Skirt from C&A. Shoes by Sacha. Beads from Bombacha. Brooch by Adrien Mann.
Left: Red and white striped wool tank top and matching cardigan by Outlander. Cream crepe skirt by Mushroom. Right: Flannel beret at Essences. Cream crepe blouse by Jon Elliot. Cream tank top and matching cardigan by C&A. Pale pink crepe skirt by Marie France.
Left: Blue felt hat by Charles Batten. White silk shirt by Carr Jones. Blue cord pinafore dress by Strawberry Studio. Leather shoes from Bombacha. Silk scarf from Essences. Right: Hat from Nostalgia. White Chinese shirt by Carr Jones. Blue tweed hacking jacket by Jenny Hare at Bombacha. Skirt by Inega. Shoes from Bombacha. Bag from Essences. Scarf by Eddie Yap for Howie.
Striped top and matching crepe cardigan. Cream crepe trousers, all by Jackie Ross at Jon Elliot. Clutch bag by Biba. Blue and white striped scarf from Essences. Beige straw hat by Diane Logan / Green,, white and black striped cardigan is a 19 Magazine knitting pattern. Long cream gored skirt by Brave New World. Cream strappy straw sandals from Chelsea Cobbler.
back to romance with nostalgia and nostalgic clothes in romantic settings. Long, flowing scarves, mysterious veils and soft, sensuous fabrics for Sunday strolls or super dates — a wardrobe for summer sentimentalists
Hair by Robert at Ricci Burns.
Photographed by Gian Barberis.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, May 1974.
Green straw hat by Diane Logan. Green and cream printed crepe de chine dress by Gillian Richard. Cream knitted cardigan from Essences. Grey suede shoes from Bombacha. / Dark green chip straw ht by Diane Logan. Green and cream printed crepe de chine dress by Gillian Richard. Navy blue shoes from Bombacha.
Cream beret by Kangol. Halter top, matching white and blue silk knitted long cardigan. Matching calf-length knitted skirt all by Lison Bonfils at Joseph. Grey suede shoes from Bombacha. / Salmon pink beret by Kangol. Cream crepe sleeveless top with sequin motif. Matching below-the-knee culottes. Both by Jackie Ross for Jon Elliot. Salmon pink silky cardigan from Essences. Sandals from Chelsea Cobbler.
Brown felt hat from Nostalgia. Black and white crepe de chine dress by Jeff Banks. Cream cardigan by Essences. Shoes from Bombacha. / White suit with black pattern and reverse on cuffs and collar from Essences. Black suede shoes from Bombacha. Black scarf from Bus Stop.
Pink straw hat by Diane Logan. Crepe crepe jacket and matching mid-calf skirt by Bus Stop. Cream straw shoes by Chelsea Cobbler. / Black and tan cloche from Diane Logan. V neck top and matching crepe jacket and skirt all from Bus Stop. Straw shoes by Chelsea Cobbler. Scarf to match suit from Bus Stop.
One of my favourite images from a Vargas-inspired spread in Nova, photographed by Hans Feurer. I will scan the others in time, but they all deserve solo appreciation. I think I would actually give my firstborn for those Chelsea Cobbler shoes. Red leather AND stars? Fetch my smelling salts!
I’ve said it before, and I will say it again, there is something about the Seventies take on Forties style (and particularly pin-ups) which I find infinitely more appealing than the originals or the tired current trend for such things.
It takes all the glamour and sauce, but gives it that subversive, pop art-esque treatment so typical of designers like Tommy Roberts, Terry de Havilland and Rae Spencer-Cullen for Miss Mouse (amongst so many other Vintage-a-Peel favourites). The models look quirky, confident and very knowing; I never get a sense of exploitation or submission. Even the tagline ‘exploitation can be fun’ is perfectly pitched and mocking both the exploiters and the prudes. Viva la Seventies!
Everyone is looking back in nostalgia – especially in fashion. But authentic Twenties and Thirties clothes can be expensive to buy so sew your own and save money. Use crêpe de chine and bias-cut voiles and leave out the linings for an authentic swing and flair. Choose eau de Nil, bois de rose and the pale sorbet shades for pure, undiluted nostalgia.
Cosmopolitan magazine, June 1974. Photos by Rolph Gobits. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.