leonard

The Romantic Phenomenon

1960s, celia hammond, david bailey, jean muir, leonard

How to have the best of all worlds at once, and be romantically different, dashing and gentle, nostalgic and modern. Never seen before in a contemporary context, the look, above, that is the key to so much that’s arriving in the first few months of the year: the billowy bodice brimming over with collar, the gathered shoulders letting fall sleeves as eloquent as Hamlet’s. Cinch the waist with what used to be a belt, what now can be pearls or bone or Plexi-glass, or soft wrapping cummerbunds as here. All in saffron silk crepe rippling into a richly pleated maxi-length skirt. By Jean Muir, £47 19s. 6d, from the 31 Shop at Harvey Nichols. Gentle glossy hair, waved and caught by a slide of pale coloured pearls, by Leonard. Dreamy Germaine Monteil make-up, by Gordon at Leonard.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, January 1968.

How You Dress is an Escape

1970s, anne schaufuss, baccarat, belinda bellville, bill gibb, charles jourdan, chelsea cobbler, Chloe, christian dior, clive arrowsmith, Hair and make-up, jean shrimpton, Jorn Langberg, karl lagerfeld, kurt geiger, leonard, Moya Bowler, Nettie Vogues, pablo and delia, Savita, The Purple Shop, thea porter, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, zandra rhodes
DEPTHS OF EVENING CHIFFON,
CAFTAN AND DIRNDL DRESS
MERGED WITH GOLD AND VELVET
Above: Tobacco chiffon caftan with smoked gold leaves, hooded, boot-buttoned, Arabic sleeves weighted with tassels. Gathered from the waist with a twisted gold rope belt. Choker, The Purple Shop, 15 Flood St, S.W.3. Soft gold boots with open lacing, 22 gns, Kurt Geiger. Right: Black organza with a bib and skirt of brilliant panne velvet, red, green and yellow printed in ribbon bands, with bangles and cuffs of the velvet. Rings, Andrew Grima. Beaded black velvet choker, The Purple Shop. Black satin ankleboots, with bright passementerie, by Moya Bowler for Edouard Jerrold. Dresses, both pages, to order at Bellville Sassoon.

How you dress is an escape and an adventure in itself… never more so than the evening.

Hair by Leonard

Models are Anne Schaufuss and Jean Shrimpton.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1970.

SHEER BLACK OF NIGHT,
WISPS PUT TOGETHER WITH
JEWELS, VELVET AND GLEAMS
Black chiffon blouse and skirt tiled with cut velvet mosaic. Blouse of velvet harlequins, bibbed with jet beads set in little studs of gilt; the skirt, striped with studded circles and squares. £184, at Thea Porter. Feather fan, to hire at The Purple Shop. Satin shoes, dyed to order, £18, dyeing, 21s, Charles Jourdan.
Black chiffon dress with a glittering apron tied around the skirt — turquoise and rusty velvet shapes shot with silver, with a striped hem, and cuffs to match. By Chloe, to order from Fortnum & Mason. Mirror necklace, £70, and gold sash clasped with turquoises, 140, both from Thea Porter. Rings, David Morris. Black velvet laced boots, 19 gns, from Kurt Geiger
KNICKERBOCKER BALLET ALL SURFACES RIPPLED WITH COLOUR AND SHINE
Grass green silk satin glossed with an intricate paisley of red, ink, black, tremendous sleeves and tunic gathered from a yoke over ballooning knee pantaloons. 85 gns; choker 25 gns, and belt, 58 gns, all at Savita. Green moire boots, 18 gns, at The Chelsea Cobbler.
Water markings, waves of colour pooled in a chiffon blouse honeycombed at the shoulders, antique tunic and panne velvet knickers. The tunic has a fitted bodice, full sweeping skirt. Blouse, £59, tunic, £75, knickers £24, heavy silver belt, £100, all Thea Porter. Burgundy velvet boots laced to knee, 19 gns, Kurt Geiger. Rings, Blooms. Chokers, The Purple Shop, 15 Flood St, S.W.3. Make up by Lancome, with Climat scent.
A NEW SLEEVE
CUT ACROSS NARROW FALLS
OF GOLD LACE
AND CLOUDY CHIFFON
Spun gold laced with mauve, the bodice cut wide into the sleeves. sashed with deep purple velvet above a basque and a gathered skirt. By Jorn Langberg from Christian Dior London. Amethyst string and brooch, at Blooms: rings. Hooper Bolton. Satin shoes dyed mauve. £18. 21s for dyeing at Charles Jourdan. Amethyst tights. Mary Quant. Make-up by Dior. with new Dioressence scent.
The bodice sleeve in chiffon, clouds of mauve blowing across. The top crossed low over the bosom and simply gathered at wrists. slight gathers in the skirt catchir the air. By Nettie Vogues, at Harrods: Hilda Hanson. Nottingham. Velvet choker. The Purple Shop at Antiquarius. Amethyst and diamond rings. Blooms; emerald and diamond ring. David Morris. Make-up by Orlane, with Jean d’Albret Casaque scent.
GLORIOUS NIGHT SHAPES.
TAPESTRY BELLS
AND SATIN PAGODA
Misty blue tapestry and gold leaves. left. edged with wide ribbons of sprigged tapestry. A gold thread laces the deep neck of a small jacket belling from the Yoke, with short arabesque sleeves. Fade-print chemise underneath, with full sleeves and crossed braid ; a slim bell for a skirt. By Bill Gibb for Baccarat, at Fortnum & Mason. Pearly black velvet choker, The Purple Shop at Antiquarius. Tangerine braid decorations, from Savita. Rings, Andrew Grima. Honey-gold and gilt velvet slippers, 20 gns, to order, The Chelsea Cobbler. Make-up by Eve of Roma, with the new Eve scent.
Sunset burst of satin, right, a pagoda of quilted tiers, wide sleeves set up to a bib bodice. Feather-print of celestial blue and of black for sun-rays. By Zandra Rhodes, at Fortnum & Mason. Diamond and blue enamel rings, at Blooms. Neck lace stringing pale beads and colourless feathers, by Pablo & Delia. Make-up by Mary Quant with P.M. scent.

Bloom More Brilliantly Than Your Dresses

1970s, barbara daly, barry lategan, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, salvador, Vogue
…it takes make-up.

Revlon’s make-up. Creamy Ivory Touch & Glow Liquid Make-up, and Frosty Sienna Blush-On so that it shows. Touch & Glow Translucent Powder dusted on and dusted of again. Eyes outlined with Midnight Blue Liquid Eyeliner. Black Super Rich Mascara for lashes. Lemon Frost merged into Meadow Green Super Rich Eye Shadows. Charcoal Grey Fineline Pencil for brows. Copper Coral Lipstick, brush-outlined for cut-out clear edges.

Make-up artist, Barbara Daly; hair by Nick at Leonard.

Herbaceous silk chiffon dress, with chiffon rose necklet, by Salvador, about £150, Liberty.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, February 1975.

For the Discotheque

1960s, beauty, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, paul misso, petticoat magazine, Piero de Monzi

When you go to a nightclub – don’t look nice! Nice means safe make-up, a little eyeshadow and ordinary hair. That’s the best way to get lost when you should be turning every head.

Go wild, wear crazy colours – cause a sensation whatever you do, don’t play safe. Looking so sensational, you’re going to be dancing a lot, so be sure of your cool. Have a crazy bath with the water coloured blue with Weil’s Antilope Bain de Mousse, £1.10s. Deodorise from top to toe with Arrid’s anti perspirant for underarms, 4s.6d. which you wisely defuzzed the night before, and use Bidex vaginal deodorant spray, 8s.11d. Give feet a treat with Windsor Gold Foot Freshener, 18s.6d.

Then wear lashings of cologne and matching talc touch of the exotics with Kiku’s Talc Ball £1.7s. 6d. and After Bath Cologne, £2.9s.6d. by Faberge.

Jayne’s wig comes from Leonards and it really stopped the traffic. Her foundation is Rubinstein’s Illumination Souffle Stick £2.7s.6d., then a polished glow with a few deft slicks of Vanilla Souffle stick £2.7s.6d. On her eyes—Lumina Silver Cake Eyeshadow, 35s. by Rubinstein, Gala’s Iced Mauve Matte Shadow 7s.9d., in the socket line. Pale mauve real feather lashes by Piero de Monzi, £3.13s.6d., top lashes 18s.6d., by Cardinelli. Mauve eyeshadow painted on lips or Cydax Apricot Gold Colour Creme Lipstick, 14s.6d. Kiku perfume stick, £2.17s.6d. for bosom, behind ears, wrists and back of knees. Give nails crystal lights with one of Cutex’s new exciting colours like Zircon Glaze, 5s.3d. Soften hands with Rubinstein’s Hand Delight. 16s.

Clothes from Fenwick. Golden Disc and Sidney Smith.

Beauty by Ann Morrow.

Photographed by Paul Misso.

Scanned from Petticoat, 8th November 1969.

Discerning Palette

1980s, Ally Capellino, Hair and make-up, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Sandra Lousada, Sophie Ward, yves saint laurent

Put aside everything you’ve ever been taught about make-up. Look at colour afresh, not as a consumer of cosmetics but as a painter might.

Oatmeal cotton smock by Ally Capellino, from all branches of Whistles. Straw hat by Extras from Hobbs. Palette and brushes from a selection at George Rowney.

Make-up by Ariane using colours from Yves Saint Laurent’s L’Eté Bleu collection.

Hair by Leonard.

Modelled by Sophie Ward.

Photographed by Sandra Lousada.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, June 1983.

Face Value

1970s, Adrian Mann, beauty, eric boman, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Richard Sharah, Sun and Sand, Vogue
T-shirt by Sun and Sand. Cotton square, flower bunch by Novelty Import Co. at John Lewis.

This is what eyebrows used to look like, kids!

Hair by John at Leonard. Make-up by Richard Sharah.

Photographed by Eric Boman.

Scanned from Vogue, April 15th 1975.

T-shirt by Sun and Sand. Pink spotted ribbon, blue wrist-tied cotton square from John Lewis. Buttercup yellow bangle from Adrien Mann.

Put your looks on your lucky number

1970s, barry lategan, beauty, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Malcolm Raines, Vogue
…with Boots completely revised Number 7 range – pure good colours, everything you need, and all in handsome heavy white and tan jars, cases and bottles – over 200 products in all.

While the hat is – unusually for Vogue – uncredited, the image is taken from this otherwise black and white editorial from the previous month so is probably by Malcolm Raines.

Hair by Oliver at Leonard.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1971

Go Jet

Antiquarius, barbara daly, barry lategan, Butler & Wilson, Cathee Dahmen, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, pablo and delia, Vogue
Spangled georgette ruff cape and dress by Pablo and Delia, about £90 at Browns. Rings and bangles from Butler and Wilson, Antiquarius.

Modelled by Cathee Dahmen.

Hair by John at Leonard. Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, January 1973.

Streaking So It Barely Shows

1960s, barry lategan, charlotte martin, hair, Hair and make-up, leonard, Make-up, The Purple Shop

Naturally mouse hair is usually limp so it needs extra life, extra lift, extra bounce. All this can be achieved by very, very fine highlighting. Keep away from obvious streaks, let your hair look instead as if it’s just come out of the sun. An expert will know exactly which colours to choose for you, exactly the right depth and contrast of highlighting. You can have water-rinse streaks or permanent; you can have your own hair coloured, or your hairpiece. The subtly streaked hair, left, is controlled at the top, combed into waves, then frizzed into a soft cloud at the shoulders. The make-up has the same romantic, pre-Raphaelite look with Orlane’s Satilane beige no. 4 with brush-on rouge no. 3. Eyes: cream pearl shadow in Bleu Perle, Bleu Marine roll-on mascara. Lipstick: beige-pink Paprika. Necklace: an eagle from the Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market. Hair colour, here, and in the picture, above, by Daniel, styling by Leonard, both from the House of Leonard.

Modelled by Charlotte Martin.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, 1969.

Blue Baloo

1970s, barry lategan, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, pablo and delia, Revlon, Sue Baloo, Vogue
Model Sue Baloo, brightly glowing with Revlon’s Ultima 11 Dresden Peach Cream Foam smoothed over her face and neck, then dusted lightly with Transluscent Face Powder – her cheeks learning the blues in Lapis Blue eyeshadow from the new Silk Print Eye Collection, blending into its compact partner, Sari Pink on the eyelids with Carbon Blue Lash Makeup Automatic intensifying her grey eyes. Blue Baloo’s lips are smiling in Rich Rich Russet – a stunningly clear bright red from the Couture Lip Collection; her hair is drawn back by Oliver at Leonard under a leather, feather and wooden bead belt wound around her head of brilliant blue and yellow ochre with medallions painted in powder blue, by Pablo & Delia.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, February 1971.