Ireland Lends Poetry to Fashion

1970s, Anders Holmquist, baccarat, bill gibb, chelsea cobbler, cherry twiss, christian dior, Deliss, Diorling, Gina Fratini, Inspirational Images, Mexicana, Nettie Vogues, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, Vintage Editorials, Worth

A white cotton lace dress by Mexicana, seen in the tranquil green surroundings of Mount Kennedy in Co. Wicklow.

Many designers look increasingly to the past for their inspiration, and, to find suitable backgrounds for modern clothes. Fashion Editor Cherry Twiss took a selection to Ireland where, with the help of the Irish Georgian Society, she discovered magical, timeless settings for the newest fashions.

“Upgathering Feather-like frills, they step demure as nuns, Nor heed the menacing eyes on every side, Dead set unceasingly like levelled guns. Truly I think each woman is a bird.” Seamus O’Sullivan, Birds.

As always, no shouting at the me for the furs please. Pretend they’re fake. Enjoy the pretty clothes and landscapes instead…

Plaits by Tovar Tresses at Miss Selfridge.

Hair by Roger at Vidal Sassoon.

Make-up by Estee Lauder.

Photographed by Anders Holmquist.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, August 21st 1970.

Lofty ancestral staircase at Mount Ievers, Co. Clare makes a beautiful, subdued setting for Baccarat’s pleated skirt and printed suede tunic. The laced boots are by Deliss.

Recalling former glories at Dollardstown, a drifting Ascher silk giselle dress, all frills and flounces, designed by Gina Fratini and worn with a beaded choker. Taffeta boots from The Chelsea Cobbler.

Mount Ievers, reflected in its own pool, speaks for the brooding timelessness of old Ireland. The black velvet Diorling midi suit is worn with a winged, onyx clip. The black silk boots are made by Deliss.

Feather like frills in the tangled splendour of the grounds of Dollardstown, Co. Meath. Black pleated organza cape and dress by Nettie Vogues. Boots by Deliss.

At the gates of Mount Ievers, a swirling tweed cape, fringed in black wool, by the House of Worth. Leather boots by Deliss.

The Renaissance of Elegance

1960s, cherry twiss, florence, Inspirational Images, italy, ken scott, Pucci, Robert Freson, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, Vintage Editorials

Ognibene-Zendman: silk culotte pyjamas, in the Palazzo Orsini, Rome.

Paris in recent seasons has seemed to be more interested in the line of a dress than whether it enhances the body. So Weekend Telegraph turned to Rome and Florence, where the emphasis is still on elegance and femininity, to report on this year’s Spring and Summer Collections.

Fashion by Cherry Twiss.

Photographed by Robert Freson.

Scanned from The Weekend Telegraph Magazine, February 24th 1967.

Ken Scott: matching floral prints, in the Villa Ombrellino, Florence.

Pucci: chiffon tent, crepe trousers, Villa Ombrellino.

Mila Schön: beaded tube, in the Villa Lante, Bagnaia.

Forquet: lace poncho over jewelled leggings, in the Palazzo Orsini.

Barocco: laminated silk tunic dress, in the Palazzo Orsini.

Indoor Fireworks

1970s, biba, charles jourdan, cherry twiss, Chic of Hampstead, Inspirational Images, janet reger, Lucienne Phillips, ossie clark, quorum, Sam Haskins, Sheilagh Browne, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, thea porter, Vintage Editorials, Yuki, yves saint laurent, zandra rhodes

Sparkling black chiffon dress with plunging neckline and diamante embroidery, £250 from Thea Porter, 8 Greek Street, London W1

Japanese men are peculiarly affected by a glimpse of the naked nape of a Japanese neck. In Western cultures such excitement is generated by a panorama of bosom (as in this black chiffon dress by Thea Porter), or a smooth swathe of thigh. Here we show some revelations from the London autumn collections… hot numbers for the coolest of winter evenings.

All perfect for lockdowns, I’m sure you’ll agree! It’s also nice to be surprised by Ossie Clark every once in a while – with a corset being so vastly different in tone from what we would usually expect.

Photographed by Sam Haskins.

Fashion Editor: Cherry Twiss.

Hair by Paulene at Michaeljohn.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, 8th November 1974.

Cream and brown two piece with lace split skirt and boned top by Ossie Clark. Shoes by Charles Jourdan, 47/49 Brompton Road, SW3

Slate blue dress by Yuki. Approximately £,165 from Fortnum and Mason, Chic of Hampstead, Heath Street, London NW3 or Lucienne’s, 89 Knightsbridge, London SW1. Gold and jade bangles from Jones, 52 Beauchamp Place, London SW3.

White silk chiffon and net full skirt and sheer top by Zandra Rhodes, to order from Fortnum and Mason.

Black jersey skirt with split front by Yuki obtainable from Fortnum and Mason or Chic of Hampstead. Sheer silk chiffon halter top by Sheilagh Browne, £14 from Quorum. Black suspender belt from Janet Reger, Bottom Drawer, 33 Southwick Street, London W2. Black stockings from Biba, Kensington High Street, W8. Shoes from Yves St Laurent, 113 New Bond Street, W1 .

Corset and skirt by Ossie Clark (as before)

Fashion Goes Into Purdah

1970s, cherry twiss, Crocodile, deborah and clare, Inspirational Images, jean muir, kurt geiger, Sacha, Savita, Suliman, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, thea porter, universal witness, Vintage Editorials

Savita’s orange and red printed muslin hot skirt and balloon sleeved midi top. The latticed rust suede hat and scarf are from Suliman.

After the systemic strip of the West’s liberated women comes a longing for the romance and mystery of the East. The newest clothes reflect this mood with suggestive gauzes and clinging crepes. We took some to Bahrain, where the women are still heavily veiled and pass secluded lives in the harem.

A textbook example of the trend towards ‘exotic’ inspiration in the fashion world of the late Sixties/early Seventies. Most famously by Thea Porter, of course, but also with lesser known labels such as Suliman and Savita. Another strand of the post-Sixties backlash against the minimal and the space-age, along with the period romanticism of Laura Ashley and the more kitschy retro Rock’n’Roll stylings of Glam Rock.

As an aside, I always feel a little uncomfortable posting these ‘location’ shoots when they involve local characters, because it can feel a little exploitative. But at the same time, I don’t want to censor the past and think it’s important to remind ourselves of how fashion needs to be less exploitative and culturally ‘acquisitional’, even now.

I was also very entertained to note that a variation on the first image was used as part of the hilarious series of Smirnoff adverts and that I scanned back in 2015. There are only a few months between the two and I’m fascinated to know whose decision that was!

Fashion by Cherry Twiss.

Photographed by Sacha.

Scanned from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, 2nd July 1971.

Flawless blue silk crepe jersey dress by Jean Muir. Gold sandals by Kurt Geiger.

Butter muslin shirt from Deborah and Clare. Striped satin skirt from The Universal Witness. The harem pants were made in the local souk.

Lace skirt and jacket by Thea Porter. Sequin cap from Crocodile.

Bronze slipper satin dress by Thea Porter.

Believe it or not, this is rainwear

1960s, anello and davide, annacat, biba, burt glinn, charles jourdan, cherry twiss, Herbert Johnson, Hilary Floyd, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, old england, ossie clark, susan small, telegraph magazine, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 1

Showerproof cotton drill jodhpur suit by Biba. Fake snakeskin hat by Herbert Johnson. Black crocodile boots by Anello & Davide.

Since PVC, macs have been exotic… now the real exotics are turning waterproof. Weekend Telegraph photographed some of the unlikely new water-shedders in Jamaica, beside the Rio Grnde and in the Land of Look Behind.

Photographed by Burt Glinn.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Telegraph Magazine, July 1967.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67

A PVC zip-up jumpsuit by Hilary Floyd modelled in Dunn’s River, Jamaica. Watch by Old England.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 2

Waterproof pigskin culottes by Cordoba Suedewear. Silk shirt by Annacat. Snakeskin waistcoat by Quorum.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 3

Hand knitted bikini by Spotlight. Trenchcoat by Weathergay.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 4

Showerproof cotton drill bermuda suit by Biba. Mock croc hat by Herbert Johnson.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 5

Canvas jacket by Andre Ledoux for Sidwall.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 6

Waterproof snakeskin brocade three-piece trouser suit by Susan Small. Crocodile Dior shoes by Charles Jourdan.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 7

Terylene and cotton cloak and hood by Burberrys. Tricel jersey evening dress and scarf by John Bates for Jean Varon.

Inspirational Editorials: Get Knitted

1960s, biba, british boutique movement, Browns, bus stop, Cerruti, cherry twiss, Inspirational Images, Ken Lane, Kutchinsky, lee bender, Sarah Moon, telegraph magazine, Vintage Editorials, Virginia, Worth

Knitted dress from The House of Worth. Hat at Brown’s.

Photographed by Sarah Moon. Styled by Cherry Twiss. Hair by Carita Salon.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, November 14th 1969

Skinny cardigan in boucle acrylic by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Ring from Kutchinsky. Gold ring by Ken Lane.

White ribbed catsuit by Sally Levison. Brass belt from David Elliott. Ring by Kutchinsky.

Maxi coat and trousers knitted by Women’s Home Industries. Roll neck sweater dress by Virginia. Hat by Cerruti.

Marled knit polo neck sweater with sleeveless waistcoat by Biba. Leather belt by Cerruti.

Inspirational Editorials: Splitting the Difference

1960s, 1970s, british boutique movement, bus stop, celia birtwell, Chelsea Antiques Market, Chelsea Drug Store, cherry twiss, christopher mcdonnell, hans feurer, Inspirational Images, king's road, lee bender, marrian mcdonnell, mary quant, ossie clark, quorum, radley, The Purple Shop, Vintage Editorials

Crepe skirt and printed chiffon blouse both at Quorum. Pink patent shoes at Elliott. Tights from Bus Stop.

If you are prepared to forsake the mini this summer for the midi or maxi, you will find that designers have compensated for covering the legs by boldly slashing the skirts at the front, the back and the sides. Photographed at The Chelsea Drug Store.

This is a fascinating editorial for a few reasons. Firstly it is photographed at the legendary Chelsea Drug Store, showing off the incredible interior to perfection. It singularly fails to credit Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell with their garments for Quorum (an odd oversight given their fame at the time…). It is also a glorious insight into the mini/midi/maxi debate of 1970 and shows us the transition between late Sixties style and the early Seventies. The clothes are familiar as early Seventies, but the shoes are not yet platform and still stuck in a low block heel.

Photographed by Hans Feurer. Styled by Cherry Twiss.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Telegraph Magazine (exact date unknown, Spring 1970)

Cream jersey dress at Marrian McDonnell. Gold sandals at Elliott. Onyx and silver ring from The Purple Shop.

Printed voile dress by Mary Quant. Suede granny shoes by Elliott. Victorian pendant at The Purple Shop, Chelsea Antiques Market.

Orange crepe dress at Bus Stop. Orange suede sandals at Elliott.

Dress by Radley Gowns from Quorum. Shoes from Kurt Geiger. Victorian pendant from The Purple Shop.

Inspirational Editorials: Socks, smocks and combinations

1970s, celia birtwell, cherry twiss, Foale and Tuffin, Inca, Inspirational Images, jap, marrian mcdonnell, ossie clark, Peter Knapp, telegraph magazine, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent

Anna Karenina dress in white alpaca by Bellville Sassoon.

Cherry Twiss delivers another brilliant shoot for the Telegraph Magazine, 17th December 1971.

Photographed by Peter Knapp. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Combinations in bright ginger wool, and ginger fox bolero designed by Yves Saint Laurent.

Femme fatale suit in embroidered black crepe – clinging skirt, waistcoat and jacket worn with bright yellow silk shirt by Ossie Clark

Red fake fur jacket by Annacat

Highwaymancloak from Mariian-McDonnell worn over knitted jodhpur suit

Highwaymancloak from Marrian-McDonnell worn over knitted jodhpur suit

Borg fur kimono-cut jacket and ankle length trousers by Foale and Tuffin

Fake fur jerkin by Jap, worn with combinations by Yves Saint Laurent and Peruvian socks from Inca

Red velvet smock by Jap and socks, helmet, armbands, bag and scarf from Inca

Jean Shrimpton – At Home With Fashion

1970s, bus stop, cherry twiss, coopers, janice wainwright, jean shrimpton, jean-loup sieff, ossie clark, sonia rykiel, telegraph magazine

“It is so beautifully cut”. Sabbath Suit by Ossie Clark.

As with so many of my favourite people, I far prefer ‘Seventies Shrimpton’ to her earlier, more famous Bailey-era. This photoshoot is from The Telegraph Magazine, April 1973, and shows Jean returning to the family farm – decked out in all the best designers of the time.

Jean Shrimpton has gained fame, fortune and glamour through her spectacular modelling career, but she seldom spends much money on clothes – although she will, on occasions, treat herself to an extravagance from Ossie Clark, one of her favourite designers. So we asked her to make her own practical choice from the clothes that are in the shops now. We photographed her at her parents’ home – Rose Hill Farm, Burnham in Buckinghamshire.

“Basically I always choose dark clothes because they are practical and don’t show the dirt. I like fairly simple, well-cut, Forties type clothes with big shoulders. I wear a lot of trousers and long skirts and prefer jackets to coats. If I do wear colour it is usually in tights or shoes”

Images scanned by Miss Peelpants