Rock around the tops that look as though they’ve come straight from the era of the hand-jive and Radio Luxembourg. That’s because our bright young designers have revived such golden oldies as the off-the-shoulder sweater and the shirtwaister blouse. So just add dirndl skirts, popper bead bracelets, swing out in hoop earrings, and we’ll see you later, alligator…
I am sorry to say that I don’t know the name of the model in this spectacular editorial, but I’m pretty sure that she’s the same model as in the video for Stuck in the Middle With You by Stealer’s Wheel. She of the gratuitous eclair-eating – and the most incredible platform shoes I’ve ever seen. It’s safe to say that I was captivated by her look in that video when I was a teenager (with an unhealthy fixation on watching VH1 rather than MTV). So if anyone knows her name, do let me know!
Pin on a badge like one of these and you’re back to nature in a small way. Picture badges, winged thing pins, discs in the shape of fruit, flowers and plants-all are part of the new, slightly naive look in accessories. And whereabouts on your person, you might ask, do you actually pin a bumble-bee or a pear? Answer is anywhere. On your left sleeve. Let a dragon-fly come to rest at your hemline. Let an oakleaf sprout on a kneesock. Just let the badge be where it falls naturally.
The look is tarty—and where better to go for background atmosphere than Hong Kong, sinful city of the Orient, perfect setting for saucy ladies of ill-repute. In this rich, bustling East/West meeting point, with its maze of colourful streets and endless shops bursting with tax-free jade, pearls and cameras. one gets the feeling that beyond these elegant facades are hidden opium dens, James Bond intrigues, and seamy Suzie Wong bars. We took the ferry across from Kowloon to Hong Kong and travelled to Aberdeen—a small, picturesque harbour inlet filled with over eight thousand junks and sampans, ornate floating restaurants selling delicious, fresh seafood, and crowded local markets.
Styled by Norma Moriceau.
Photographed by John Bishop.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1971.
The styling and clothes in this editorial (I mean, green tights and red platforms? Swoon!) are something close to flawless. Unlike the copy -which I have still posted as a historical document- and also, possibly, the use of local residents as ‘extras’. I occasionally feel the need to clarify that I don’t necessarily endorse all elements of things I post, but I also don’t think it benefits us to completely censor history – especially when one is creating an archive.
Yves St. Laurent’s ‘Blast From The Past’ award is taken by the blazer. Fashioned a la Dietrich, casual but smart, it looks especially good with shorts, hot-coloured tights and long knee-socks, or pleated skirts. The best choice is plain white, black or red; or hot checks and stripes.
A superb editorial, giving us an insight into the short-lived but legendary Hollywood Clothes Shop and The Purple Shop in Antiquarius (which I feel like I’m regularly crediting in other posts on here) and also designer David Mellor’s shop. It also has the unusual element of every price being given in new and old money – with decimalisation having been introduced in February of the same year. I’m surprised I don’t see this a lot more in editorials from 1971.
Ten years ago, the British woman was bound to her cardigan. Then, in a feverish review of fashion, the cardigan was shelved for the jacket. Now, it’s back in circulation, not as the rather insipid number of yesteryear, but renewed in a long wrap-around version — the sort you cuddle into when it’s cold outside, the sort you wear over dresses, jeans or even suits. Cardigans like this are the most practical knitwear created for ages and the Paris Collections, if they spell excitement to you, were full of them.
All jewellery in feature from a selection at Marie Middleton and Susan Marsh at Chelsea Antique Market. Gold-rimmed glasses from any good optician.
The main attraction of this summer’s printed dress is their little-girl, Sunday-best quality. The star fabric is floral crepe-de-Chine, now beautifully revived, featuring softly shaped skirts, Peter Pan collars and puff sleeves.
Another flawless example of early Seventies nostalgia for the Thirties and Forties, which might seem frivolous or twee if it wasn’t in the talented hands of Mr Peccinotti.
Your poor old great grandma used to wear corsets with lots of complicated lacing and back-piercing whale bones! Fortunately for you, such constricting garments are history, and the accent is now on complete and utter freedom. In fact, you could say underwear has become a second skin – and we prove our point with the following…
It’s nice to know that Harri Peccinotti still has the capacity to blow me away with a new-old photoshoot. Of course, insanely high and sparkly platform shoes and silky underwear plays a large part in that, but the mood he captures is second to none. I wonder if I will ever not believe that this aesthetic is the ultimate?
Black and silver are this year’s popular Christmas colours. Sweaters are in silver lurex striped in black, black wool flecked with silver and endless other combinations. Shapes are halter-necks, dolmans, or little wrap-over cardigans – almost any shape will do. Accessories are bright and glittery. Add touches, like sticking sequins on your hats, and shoes, and you’re all set to outshine the fairylights.
Photographed by Christian Laroque.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1972.
What a year. It’s hard to summon up a great deal of enthusiasm for the Christmas we’re about to have, but I’m looking backwards to look forwards, as I often do. I still seem to find joy and solace in art and aesthetics and I hope my posts have given you the odd moment of enjoyment and inspiration this year. Thank you for your support and to everyone who has bought vintage from me or liked/shared/commented on my blog and Instagram posts. Sending you my love and best wishes for a better year ahead.
After the systemic strip of the West’s liberated women comes a longing for the romance and mystery of the East. The newest clothes reflect this mood with suggestive gauzes and clinging crepes. We took some to Bahrain, where the women are still heavily veiled and pass secluded lives in the harem.
A textbook example of the trend towards ‘exotic’ inspiration in the fashion world of the late Sixties/early Seventies. Most famously by Thea Porter, of course, but also with lesser known labels such as Suliman and Savita. Another strand of the post-Sixties backlash against the minimal and the space-age, along with the period romanticism of Laura Ashley and the more kitschy retro Rock’n’Roll stylings of Glam Rock.
As an aside, I always feel a little uncomfortable posting these ‘location’ shoots when they involve local characters, because it can feel a little exploitative. But at the same time, I don’t want to censor the past and think it’s important to remind ourselves of how fashion needs to be less exploitative and culturally ‘acquisitional’, even now.
I was also very entertained to note that a variation on the first image was used as part of the hilarious series of Smirnoff adverts and that I scanned back in 2015. There are only a few months between the two and I’m fascinated to know whose decision that was!
Fashion by Cherry Twiss.
Photographed by Sacha.
Scanned from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, 2nd July 1971.