Nifty Fifties

19 magazine, 1970s, antony price, che guevara, Emmerton and Lambert, Gamages, Inspirational Images, Mick Milligan, mr freedom, Phyllis Collins, Roger Charity, stirling cooper, Titfers, universal witness, Vintage Editorials
Yellow crepe blouse by Antony Price at Che Guevara, £5. Sky blue floral patterned skirt with plain blue panels, from Universal Witness, £6. Black bead necklace from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Sunglasses are the model’s own.

Rock around the tops that look as though they’ve come straight from the era of the hand-jive and Radio Luxembourg. That’s because our bright young designers have revived such golden oldies as the off-the-shoulder sweater and the shirtwaister blouse. So just add dirndl skirts, popper bead bracelets, swing out in hoop earrings, and we’ll see you later, alligator…

I am sorry to say that I don’t know the name of the model in this spectacular editorial, but I’m pretty sure that she’s the same model as in the video for Stuck in the Middle With You by Stealer’s Wheel. She of the gratuitous eclair-eating – and the most incredible platform shoes I’ve ever seen. It’s safe to say that I was captivated by her look in that video when I was a teenager (with an unhealthy fixation on watching VH1 rather than MTV). So if anyone knows her name, do let me know!

Photographed by Roger Charity.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1971.

Off-the-shoulder red and white striped woollen sweater, £4.50. Red crepe pencil skirt fastens down the back with large white buttons, £6. Both by Phyllis Collins at Stirling Cooper. White vanity case by Antler, £7.25. Cotton scarves, from Gamages, 35p each.
Black and white striped voile shirt with batwing sleeves and pintucks at the waist, by Antony Price at Che Guevara, £5. Violet satin skirt, from Universal Witness, £7.50. Black and white spotted cotton hankie, from Herbert Johnson, 40p. Button brooch, designed for Zandra Rhodes by Mick Mulligan.
Emerald green and white striped woolen sweater with ties at shoulders, £4.50. Matching satin jersey pencil skirt with buttons down the back, £6. Both by Phyllis Collins at Stirling Cooper. Hoop earrings by Adrien Mann, £1.50. Necklace by Funny Bijou at Titfers, £1.50. Silver bow ring by Mick Milligan at Mr Freedom.

Cornucopia

1970s, Adrian Mann, Badges and Equipment, corocraft, crowthers, flair magazine, Illustrations, philip castle, universal witness
I. Red and white enamel and gilt bumble-bee with pearly eyes/78p. 2. Blue, green and red enamel and gilt dragon-fly/78p. 3. Green and red enamel and gilt dragon-fly/90p, all by Adrien Mann. 4. Red plastic may-bug, Universal Witness/75p. 5. Small green and blue enamel and gilt dragon-fly, Adrien Mann, 57p. 6. Antique nickel plated bumble-bee, Gay Designs/69p. 7. Red plastic bunch of cherries, Adrien Mann/95p. 8. Chrome acorn and oak-leaves badge, Badges and Equipment/45p. 9. Creamy plastic peacock, Universal Witness/75p. 10. Shiny red enamel continental tomato, Corocraft/69p. 11. Small house badge, Crowthers/ 33p. 12. Double daisy with green enamel petals and red enamel centres, Adrien Mann £1.08. 13. Spotty apple badge, Crowthers/ 37p. 44. Green enamel apple/69p. 15. Yellow enamel pear/69p, both by Corocraft.

Pin on a badge like one of these and you’re back to nature in a small way. Picture badges, winged thing pins, discs in the shape of fruit, flowers and plants-all are part of the new, slightly naive look in accessories. And whereabouts on your person, you might ask, do you actually pin a bumble-bee or a pear? Answer is anywhere. On your left sleeve. Let a dragon-fly come to rest at your hemline. Let an oakleaf sprout on a kneesock. Just let the badge be where it falls naturally.

Illustration by Philip Castle.

Scanned from Flair, August 1971.

Hong Kong

19 magazine, 1970s, Alan Rodin, alice pollock, antony price, Bata, biba, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, Jolly and Marsh, lilley and skinner, Norma Moriceau, ravel, stirling cooper, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Palest green Dicel satin blouse with glass buttons, £5.25. Apple green circular skirt in silk and rayon mixture, £8.75. Both from Universal Witness. Green tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Red patent shoes from Yves Saint Laurent, £14.

The look is tarty—and where better to go for background atmosphere than Hong Kong, sinful city of the Orient, perfect setting for saucy ladies of ill-repute. In this rich, bustling East/West meeting point, with its maze of colourful streets and endless shops bursting with tax-free jade, pearls and cameras. one gets the feeling that beyond these elegant facades are hidden opium dens, James Bond intrigues, and seamy Suzie Wong bars. We took the ferry across from Kowloon to Hong Kong and travelled to Aberdeen—a small, picturesque harbour inlet filled with over eight thousand junks and sampans, ornate floating restaurants selling delicious, fresh seafood, and crowded local markets.

Styled by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1971.

The styling and clothes in this editorial (I mean, green tights and red platforms? Swoon!) are something close to flawless. Unlike the copy -which I have still posted as a historical document- and also, possibly, the use of local residents as ‘extras’. I occasionally feel the need to clarify that I don’t necessarily endorse all elements of things I post, but I also don’t think it benefits us to completely censor history – especially when one is creating an archive.

Satin print blouse, from Van Der Fransen, £2. Blue cotton skirt with white print and ruffled dipping hem, by Universal Witness, £7.35. Tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Purple leather sandals, from Bata International, £7. Satin shawl with black fringing, from Van Der Fransen, £5.
White sleeveless Dicel satin dress with large blue flower design, by Universal Witness, £14.70. Apple green mock lizard sandals, by Bally, £6-50. Bracelet from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
Moss crepe dress by Alice Pollock at Radley, £13.50. Tight by Mary Quant, 75p. Patent wedge sandals by Yves Saint Laurent, £14. Bracelets from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
White crepe dress with moon print and matching shorts by Antony Price at Stirling Cooper, £10. Ankle strap shoes, from Ravel, £5.99.
Cotton jersey halter-neck top and slit skirt in green and yellow floral print, by Alan Rodin, £5. Navy suede laced sandals, by Lilley and Skinner, £8.95. Bracelet from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
Black Tricel dress with beige print has cap sleeves and sash tie, by Biba, £8.55. Navy sandals with lacings, by Lilley and Skinner, £8.95. Neckklace from a selection at Kensington Market. Rings are model’s own. Flower from Fogg and Wakefield.

City Slickers

19 magazine, 1970s, Antiquarius, Baggage and General, biba, bus stop, clobber, Deco Inspired, Elgee, erica budd, Feathers, gladrags, hollywood clothes shop, Inspirational Images, Jasper, Jean Charles Brosseau, jeff banks, lee bender, Michael Berkofsky, Norma Moriceau, ravel, Shubette, Simon Ellis, Sue Baloo, Sunarama, The Purple Shop, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, wallis
Felt hat. by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Crêpe shirt. by Jeff Banks. £6.30 (6gns.). Natural calico blazer has yellow braid edging and matching shorts, by Wallis, £7.95 (£7 19s.). Tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). Artificial flowers from a selection at John Lewis. Photographed at the Purple Shop, Antiquarius, 153 Kings Road, London, S.W.3.

Yves St. Laurent’s ‘Blast From The Past’ award is taken by the blazer. Fashioned a la Dietrich, casual but smart, it looks especially good with shorts, hot-coloured tights and long knee-socks, or pleated skirts. The best choice is plain white, black or red; or hot checks and stripes.

A superb editorial, giving us an insight into the short-lived but legendary Hollywood Clothes Shop and The Purple Shop in Antiquarius (which I feel like I’m regularly crediting in other posts on here) and also designer David Mellor’s shop. It also has the unusual element of every price being given in new and old money – with decimalisation having been introduced in February of the same year. I’m surprised I don’t see this a lot more in editorials from 1971.

Modelled by Sue Baloo

Styled by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1971.

Denim hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £6. Cotton shirt in browns and blues, by Jasper, £4.48 (89s.7d.). ‘Forties’ rayon hopsack blazer, double-breasted with Square padded shoulders and two large pockets, matching shorts with turn-ups (sold as a three-piece with trousers), by Shubette, £13.95 (£13 19s.). Green tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). White Orlon socks, by Sunarama, 59p. (11s.10d.). Blue mules with white thonging, by Ravel, £3.75 (75s.). Pretend watch-brooch from Universal Witness, 50p. (10s.). Photographed outside Green’s of Chelsea, fruiterer and florist.
Brown felt hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Canary yellow cotton jersey shirt, £3.20 (64s.). Multi-coloured random striped cotton jersey vest, £1.38 (27s.7d.). Both by Erica Budd. Wine jersey blazer edged in turquoise, with turquoise shorts, by Clobber, £10. Blue over-the-knee socks, from Fenwicks, 50p. (10s.). Doggie brooch, from Universal Witness, 50p. (10s.). Ribbon on hat, from a selection at John Lewis. Photographed at the Hollywood Clothes Shop.
Felt hat by Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s) Red jersey shirt with elasticised waist, £5.95 (£5 19s). Navy knitted cotton vest with red trim, £1.75 (35s). Madras cotton blazer, £9.50 (£9 10s). Shorts, £4.45 (£4 9s). All by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Tights by Mary Quant, 75p (15s). Peep-toes by Ravel, £5.99 (£5 19s 10d).
Straw hat, from Biba, £1.25 (25s.). Spotted cotton voile shirt in red, yellow, blue and green, by Simon Ellis, £4.25 (85s.). Single-breasted blazer and shorts suit in black givreine, from Biba, £9.75 (£9 15s.). Sheer black tights, from Biba, 54 ½p. (10s.11d.). Crêpe scarf, from Biba, £2. Artificial flowers, from Biba, £1.05 (1gn.). Photographed at David Mellor, Ironmonger, London, S.W.1.
Brown felt hat, from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Cotton oatmeal shirt, by Jasper, £3.98 (79s.7d.). Checked waistcoat in shades of tan with rust stripes, £5.25 (5gns.). Shorts, £5.25 (5gns.). Matching single-breasted tan blazer in washable Telenka with flap patch-pockets and belt, £10. All by Gladrags. Brown tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). Long rust socks, from Feathers, £1.50 (30s.). Suede wedge shoes, by Ravel, £4.50 (90s.). Bright green satchel, by Baggage and General Holding Co. Ltd., £1.50 (30s.).
Denim hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £6. Spotted blouse, from a selec-tion at Van Der Fransen. Single-breasted rayon blazer suit by Elgee, jacket in blue and beige checks on white has padded shoulders and flap pockets, and comes with either plain white or matching shorts, 2_15.75 (15anq Navy tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). White Orlon over-the-knee socks, by Sunarama, 59p. (11s.10d.). Navy mules, from Ravel, £3.75 (75s.). Pretend watch-brooch from Universal Witness, 50p. (10s.). Photographed at Parsons, Fulham Road, London, S.W.10.
Navy denim hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Red cotton jersey shirt, £5.95 (£5 19s.). Red, navy and white jersey vest with side button fastening, £2.50 (50s.). White bonded jersey blazer, £7. Navy jersey shorts, £3.75 (75s.). All by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Navy socks, from Fenwicks, 50p. (10s.). White sandals with cork soles from Ravel, £4.50 (90s.).

With Reference To The Past

19 magazine, 1970s, Browns, cacharel, coopers, Crochetta, Deco Inspired, edward mann, erica budd, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Ku Khanh, lord john, Norma Moriceau, Riva, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, terry de havilland, tuttabankem, Twomax, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, Virginia, Vivienne Lynn
Rust-coloured felt hat with rose trimming from a selection at Van Der Fransen. French Dresden blue shirt with pink and lilac floral print, by Jeff Banks, £6.50. Grey boucle cardigan with short puff sleeves and front fastening, by Crochetta, £6.50. Pale blue circular barathea skirt, by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers, £12. Scarf by Herbert Johnson, £3-15. Green straw hat with rose trimming, from Universal Witness, £5. Blue sweater with long sleeves and round neck, £2.45. Matching short-sleeved cardigan with wrap-over front, £3.45. Both by Erica Budd. Grey crepe Oxford bags with pleated front, by Tuttabankem, £17-50.

Ten years ago, the British woman was bound to her cardigan. Then, in a feverish review of fashion, the cardigan was shelved for the jacket. Now, it’s back in circulation, not as the rather insipid number of yesteryear, but renewed in a long wrap-around version — the sort you cuddle into when it’s cold outside, the sort you wear over dresses, jeans or even suits. Cardigans like this are the most practical knitwear created for ages and the Paris Collections, if they spell excitement to you, were full of them.

All jewellery in feature from a selection at Marie Middleton and Susan Marsh at Chelsea Antique Market. Gold-rimmed glasses from any good optician.

Modelled by Vivienne Lynn and unknown model.

Styling by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by Ku Khanh.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, January 1973.

Dark green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale green fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Cream bouclé short-sleeved cardigan with very thin stripes, by Crochetta, £8. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale yellow fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Yellow cardigan with two pockets on hips, by Twomax, £4.50.
Sweater and matching cardigan in blue tweed mixture with beige and brown trims, from Upstairs at Lord John, £25 the set. Camel barathea skirt with full front flap, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11.95. White shirt with black and yellow floral print, by Riva, £4-95. Grey cardigan with yellow stripe, by Virginia, £14. Grey wrap-over barathea skirt with pockets on hips, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11-95. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.
Green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale blue flower-printed sleeveless blouse with cowl neck, £4. Brown flowered crepe skirt, £6. Both from Van Der Fransen. Pink wool and angora cardigan, by Crochetta, £10. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, £5. Cream and brown printed short-sleeved blouse with two breast pockets, matching skirt with elasticated waistband, £11.60 the set. All by Universal Witness. Green wool and angora cardigan with ribbed waistband, by Crochetta, £10.
Brown felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Pink and violet print blouse with cape collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long cream boucle cardigan with hip pockets and tie belt, by Crochetta, £13. Black jersey skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black and white lace-up ankle boots, by Terry de Haviland, £15.99. Wool gloves, by Morley, 72p. Grey felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Blue and white spotted sleeveless blouse, with cowl collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long white ribbed cardigan with hip pockets, by Twomax, £7.50. Long grey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black wool gloves from a selection at Browns.
Black cotton shirt with floral print, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Camel cardigan with V-neck and thin white stripes, by Virginia, £15. Black jersey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Cream jersey dress with scalloped Peter Pan collar, by Gillian Richard, £9.80. Long navy blue cardigan with round neck, by McCaul, £4. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.

The Main Attraction

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, Brosseau, bus stop, crowthers, edward mann, florrie carr, Fogg and Wakefield, Harri Peccinotti, harriet, Herbert Johnson, hollywood clothes shop, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, Jasper, Jean Charles Brosseau, Jolly and Marsh, kensington market, lee bender, Marielle, mary quant, ravel, Rosie Nice, Sacha, Sportaville, Titfers, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Red spotty blouse in burnt out crepe, worn over black, red and white printed Dycella skirt by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Red tights by Lovely Lady. Scarf by Jasper. Black leather t-bar shoes from Sacha. Bag and bangles from a selection at Jolly and Marsh. Sweetheart brooch from Universal Witness. / Red cloche hat by Titfers. Dress in three different prints by Van der Fransen. Tights by Mary Quant. Shoes by Sacha. Red gloves from Van der Fransen. Necklace and bangles from Jolly and Marsh, Kensington Market. / Little pink bows on a white moss crepe dress by Florrie Carr. Artificial flowers in hair are by Fogg and Wakefield.

The main attraction of this summer’s printed dress is their little-girl, Sunday-best quality. The star fabric is floral crepe-de-Chine, now beautifully revived, featuring softly shaped skirts, Peter Pan collars and puff sleeves.

Another flawless example of early Seventies nostalgia for the Thirties and Forties, which might seem frivolous or twee if it wasn’t in the talented hands of Mr Peccinotti.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, March 1971.

Multi coloured rayon crepe dress from a nearly new selection at Van der Fransen. Blue suede shoes by Mary Quant. / Calf-length crepe de Chine dress by Marielle. Black leather high heeled shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Yellow sisal hat by Jean-Charles Brosseau. Crepe de Chine dress by Mary Quant. Lilac suede shoes by Mary Quant.
Brown cotton voile dress and tights by Mary Quant. White strappy sandals by Ravel. / Brown rayon jersey dress by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Beige suede slingbacks by Mary Qant. Scarf from a selection at Rosie Nice, Kensington Market. / Navy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Navy spotted rayon crepe dress from Van der Fransen. Brown suede shoes by Sacha. / Lilac cloche by Edward Mann. Rayon georgette blouse and purple velvet skirt both from Crowthers. Mauve patent sandals from Ravel.
Brown printed georgette suit from Bus Stop. Green leather wedge heeled shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Burgundy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Black georgette suit from Bus Stop. Black three bar shoes by Sacha. / Green straw hat from a selection at Van der Fransen. Rayon georgette dress by Mary Quant. Green leather shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Yellow hat by Jean-Charles Brosseau. Red, white and bloue dress by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Patent wedge sandals by Ravel.
Pale mustard puff sleeved dress by Biba. Brown patent two-strap shoes by Sacha. Scarf by Jasper. / Cream sisal hat by Bermona. Black tea dance dress with delicate white flowery print by Biba. White leather sandals by Ravel. / Navy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Navy cotton dress by Harriet. Black shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop.

Bare Essentials

19 magazine, 1970s, Abecita, che guevara, Derber, Fenwick, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, janet reger, lingerie, mary quant, platforms, Sacha, shoes, universal witness, Vintage Editorials
Orange and white spotted bra and pants by Mary Quant. Blue leather shoes with sequin encrusted heels and platforms from Derber. / Blue and white spotted bra and pants set by Mary Quant. Black and white spotted peeptoe shoes from Biba. Black patent leather shoes covered with fake diamonds and silver leather shoes with silver sequins on heels and platforms, both by Derber. Blue felt hat with embroidered flower from Universal Witness.

Your poor old great grandma used to wear corsets with lots of complicated lacing and back-piercing whale bones! Fortunately for you, such constricting garments are history, and the accent is now on complete and utter freedom. In fact, you could say underwear has become a second skin – and we prove our point with the following…

It’s nice to know that Harri Peccinotti still has the capacity to blow me away with a new-old photoshoot. Of course, insanely high and sparkly platform shoes and silky underwear plays a large part in that, but the mood he captures is second to none. I wonder if I will ever not believe that this aesthetic is the ultimate?

Photographed by Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1973.

Green silk shorts with leaf print by Janet Reger (matching bra not shown). Blue metallic platform peep toe shoes with silver spot trim by Sacha. / Cream crepe de chine bra and pants, with pink and green cloud print pattern, by Janet Reger. Suede ‘Forties’ platform shoes with beaded sides by Terry de Havilland.
Green, yellow and pale orange striped bra and pants set by Abecita of Sweden. / Gold halter neck bra and shorts set by Abecita of Sweden. Blue felt hat from Universal Witness. Knee socks from Che Guevara.
Both sets by Abecita of Sweden.
Both sets from Fenwick.

Christmas Glitter

19 magazine, 1970s, Antiquarius, biba, bus stop, Chelsea Antiques Market, Christian Larroque, Crochetta, erica budd, Essences, Essenses, Inspirational Images, John Craig, kangol, lee bender, Leicester Shoes, marshall lester, mushroom, platforms, Richard Green, Sacha, universal witness, Vintage Editorials
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Knitted silver lurex halterneck top by Erica Budd. Fox fur cape from Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Knitted silver lurex wrap over cardigan by Erica Budd. Fox muffler as before. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Black and glass beaded pendant necklace from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market.

Black and silver are this year’s popular Christmas colours. Sweaters are in silver lurex striped in black, black wool flecked with silver and endless other combinations. Shapes are halter-necks, dolmans, or little wrap-over cardigans – almost any shape will do. Accessories are bright and glittery. Add touches, like sticking sequins on your hats, and shoes, and you’re all set to outshine the fairylights.

Photographed by Christian Laroque.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1972.

What a year. It’s hard to summon up a great deal of enthusiasm for the Christmas we’re about to have, but I’m looking backwards to look forwards, as I often do. I still seem to find joy and solace in art and aesthetics and I hope my posts have given you the odd moment of enjoyment and inspiration this year. Thank you for your support and to everyone who has bought vintage from me or liked/shared/commented on my blog and Instagram posts. Sending you my love and best wishes for a better year ahead.

Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Wool halterneck sweater with thin silver lurex stripes by John Craig. Black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Fox fur muffler from a seletion at Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Silver lurex sweater with thin black stripes by Marshall London. Fox fur muffler as before. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Christmas decorations from Woolworths.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Lurex cardigan with long sleeves from Biba. Long black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Fox fur muffler from a seletion at Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Black and silver lurex striped sweater from Biba. Black satin Oxford bags by Richard Green. Black suede shoes with silver snakeskin trim by Leicester shoes. Fox muffler as before. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Necklace from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Green wool lurex flecked sweater from Universal Witness. Black satin skirt by Mushroom. Black suede shoes with silver snakeskin trim by Leicester shoes. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Glass and amber dress clip from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Charcoal grey lurex sweater with heart-shaped neck and lurex trims by John Craig. Black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Fox fur muffler from a seletion at Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Black, gold and silver striped lurex sweater by Crochetta. Black satin skirt by Mushroom. Black suede shoes with silver snakeskin trim by Leicester shoes. Long yellow chiffon scarf from a selection at Essences. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Necklace from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Black angora halterneck sweater, striped with silver lurex, by Crochetta. Black sequin jacket from Essences at Antiquarius. Black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Gold shoes from Sacha. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros.

Fashion Goes Into Purdah

1970s, cherry twiss, Crocodile, deborah and clare, Inspirational Images, jean muir, kurt geiger, Sacha, Savita, Suliman, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, thea porter, universal witness, Vintage Editorials
Savita’s orange and red printed muslin hot skirt and balloon sleeved midi top. The latticed rust suede hat and scarf are from Suliman.

After the systemic strip of the West’s liberated women comes a longing for the romance and mystery of the East. The newest clothes reflect this mood with suggestive gauzes and clinging crepes. We took some to Bahrain, where the women are still heavily veiled and pass secluded lives in the harem.

A textbook example of the trend towards ‘exotic’ inspiration in the fashion world of the late Sixties/early Seventies. Most famously by Thea Porter, of course, but also with lesser known labels such as Suliman and Savita. Another strand of the post-Sixties backlash against the minimal and the space-age, along with the period romanticism of Laura Ashley and the more kitschy retro Rock’n’Roll stylings of Glam Rock.

As an aside, I always feel a little uncomfortable posting these ‘location’ shoots when they involve local characters, because it can feel a little exploitative. But at the same time, I don’t want to censor the past and think it’s important to remind ourselves of how fashion needs to be less exploitative and culturally ‘acquisitional’, even now.

I was also very entertained to note that a variation on the first image was used as part of the hilarious series of Smirnoff adverts and that I scanned back in 2015. There are only a few months between the two and I’m fascinated to know whose decision that was!

Fashion by Cherry Twiss.

Photographed by Sacha.

Scanned from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, 2nd July 1971.

White banlon dress by Simon Massey.
Flawless blue silk crepe jersey dress by Jean Muir. Gold sandals by Kurt Geiger.
Butter muslin shirt from Deborah and Clare. Striped satin skirt from The Universal Witness. The harem pants were made in the local souk.
Lace skirt and jacket by Thea Porter. Sequin cap from Crocodile.
Black crepe bloomer dress by Jean Muir.
Bronze slipper satin dress by Thea Porter.

Happy ever after

1970s, alkasura, crowthers, Inspirational Images, jane giunchi, Margaret Howell, medusa, mr darren, Mr Darren, Newfanglenesse, petticoat magazine, Steve Hiett, steven hiett, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Viyella smock by Alkasura. Medusa shorts. Universal Witness bag.

Picture yourself in a land of featherlight voile and dewy country cotton, buzzing with tiny weeny flybynight characters, and you might find a lovely romantic fairytale ending…

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from Petticoat, 26th June 1971.

Cotton shorts and top from Crowthers. Cotton skirt from Van der Fransen. Crowthers cotton shirt and shirt. Oversmock by Mr Darren. Badges by Jane Giunchi.
Voile shorts and yoked top by Mr Darren. Leather choker from Alkasura. Voile shorts and smock by Mr Darren. Enamel pendant by Newfangelnesse.
Crowthers cotton shorts and shirt. Margaret Howell green and yellow vest. Jane Giunchi badge.
Cotton shirt and shorts by Crowthers. Belt and pendant by Newfanglenesse.
Clobber crepe smock. Newfanglenesse pendant. Van de Fransen panama.