the pillbox

Browns, guy bourdin, hats, Inspirational Images, karl lagerfeld, Manuella Papatakis, Moravetz, Vogue

Here are the beginnings of a new silhouette and a new face, eyeliner, lipstick, not much mascara, a little rouge. Hair sleeked away somewhere. The hat: an uncompromising pillbox tipped over one eyebrow. Get used to it now, before anyone else.

Both hats by Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe, at Browns.

Veiling from John Lewis. Necklace, £6.75, Butler & Wilson.

Hair by Regis at Mods Hair, Paris.

Make-up by Moravetz.

Photographed by Guy Bourdin.

Scanned from Vogue, August 1972.

Black cire draped pillbox on Manuella Papatakis, daughter of Anouk Aimee.

It’s Cool

1970s, biba, Browns, Buckle Under, bus stop, crowthers, duc, florrie carr, Foale and Tuffin, Get, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, Jasper, lee bender, liberty, liberty's, ravel, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent

Pale blue sisal hat with peacock feathers, by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Rayon crepe de Chine long-sleeved dress with multi-coloured wild flowers on a navy blue background with ribbons on its tie belt, by Sujon, £14.50. Red tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. White wet-look ankle-strap wedge sandals. from Ravel. £5.99.

Fresh and pretty is the look you should aim for this summer, with maybe an inch or two of knee bravely peeping out from under floral prints on crepe de Chine or crisp cotton. Match your dress with brightly coloured tights and wear straw hats adorned with bunches of fruit and flowers, or a silk scarf and wedge shoes to complete your summer ensemble.

Photographed by Duc.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, June 1971.

Cream sisal hat with flowers. by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Dress with bodice gathered into half yoke at front and a long sash tie, in crepe de Chine with pale pink and lemon flowers on a black background, by Crowthers, £11.50. Blue tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. White leather wedge shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Red sisal hat, from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral printed short-sleeved crêpe de Chine dress in pastel colours, with artificial flowers on a décolleté neckline, by Crowthers, £11.25. Yellow tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. Wedge shoes, from Ravel, £7.50.

Straw hat from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral printed cotton dress with green, white and yellow flowers on puffed sleeves and skirt has a bodice of black cotton jersey, by Get, £5.50. Blue tights by Ballito, 40p. Yellow espadrilles, by Yves St. Laurent, £8.90. Navy cotton hankie tied over eyes by Herbert Johnson, 40p. Straw hat from Biba, £1.25. Cotton dress with red and yellow lowered print of puffed sleeves and skirt has a bodice of black cotton jersey, by Get, £5.50. Yellow tights by Ballito, 40p. Red espadrilles with rope wedge heels, by Yves St. Laurent, £8.90. Artificial flowers on hat, from Biba, £1.05 each.

Red cotton Liberty print smock with drawstring neck and patch pockets, by Foale and Tuffin, £15.50. White leather shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Cotton dress in panels of three different Liberty prints, by Foale and Tuffin, £14. White leather shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Rayon crepe de Chine dress with floral print, by Sujon, £14.50. White wet-look patent shoes, from Ravel, £5.99. Sisal hats, from Browns, £7. Silk scarves, by Jasper, £3.50. Tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. Hoola Hoops from Hamleys, London, W.1.

Beige sisal hat by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Sunshine yellow moss crepe dress with embroidered flowers at each side of the shirred, smocked-look front panel, by Florrie Carr, £9. Yellow tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Ankle-strap wedge sandals, from Ravel, £5.99.

Red sisal hat from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral crepe de Chine dress with a double collar, pin-tucked pleats, and thin tie belt, by Gillian Richard, £6.87. Grey tights by Mary Quant, 75p. White wedge shoes from Ravel, £7.50. Cream sisal hat from Browns, £7. Rayon dress with red poppies on a blue background, gathered into a square yoke, by Lee Bender for Bus Stop, £6.95. Red tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Wedge shoes from Ravel, £7.50. Red hankie around hat, from Herbert Johnson, 40p.

The Fresh Note of Meadowsong

1970s, Browns, Inspirational Images, patrick hunt, Patrick Hunt, Vogue

Goya’s new fragrance sings of hayfields and hedgerows and clover and honeysuckle. It’s green but warmed by the sunshine – and the products contain the natural elements found in the waters of the famous French spas. Dress and hat from Browns, South Molton St, W.1.

Photographed by Patrick Hunt.

Scanned from Vogue, August 1971.

Armani at Browns

1970s, Armani, Browns, Charles of the Ritz, John Peden, Polaroid, swimwear, Vintage Adverts, Vogue

Sunglasses by Polaroid. Make-up by Charles of the Ritz.

Photographed by John Peden.

Scanned from Vogue, March 1978.

With Reference To The Past

19 magazine, 1970s, Browns, cacharel, coopers, Crochetta, Deco Inspired, edward mann, erica budd, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Ku Khanh, lord john, Norma Moriceau, Riva, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, terry de havilland, tuttabankem, Twomax, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, Virginia, Vivienne Lynn

Rust-coloured felt hat with rose trimming from a selection at Van Der Fransen. French Dresden blue shirt with pink and lilac floral print, by Jeff Banks, £6.50. Grey boucle cardigan with short puff sleeves and front fastening, by Crochetta, £6.50. Pale blue circular barathea skirt, by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers, £12. Scarf by Herbert Johnson, £3-15. Green straw hat with rose trimming, from Universal Witness, £5. Blue sweater with long sleeves and round neck, £2.45. Matching short-sleeved cardigan with wrap-over front, £3.45. Both by Erica Budd. Grey crepe Oxford bags with pleated front, by Tuttabankem, £17-50.

Ten years ago, the British woman was bound to her cardigan. Then, in a feverish review of fashion, the cardigan was shelved for the jacket. Now, it’s back in circulation, not as the rather insipid number of yesteryear, but renewed in a long wrap-around version — the sort you cuddle into when it’s cold outside, the sort you wear over dresses, jeans or even suits. Cardigans like this are the most practical knitwear created for ages and the Paris Collections, if they spell excitement to you, were full of them.

All jewellery in feature from a selection at Marie Middleton and Susan Marsh at Chelsea Antique Market. Gold-rimmed glasses from any good optician.

Modelled by Vivienne Lynn and unknown model.

Styling by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by Ku Khanh.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, January 1973.

Dark green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale green fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Cream bouclé short-sleeved cardigan with very thin stripes, by Crochetta, £8. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale yellow fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Yellow cardigan with two pockets on hips, by Twomax, £4.50.

Sweater and matching cardigan in blue tweed mixture with beige and brown trims, from Upstairs at Lord John, £25 the set. Camel barathea skirt with full front flap, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11.95. White shirt with black and yellow floral print, by Riva, £4-95. Grey cardigan with yellow stripe, by Virginia, £14. Grey wrap-over barathea skirt with pockets on hips, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11-95. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.

Green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale blue flower-printed sleeveless blouse with cowl neck, £4. Brown flowered crepe skirt, £6. Both from Van Der Fransen. Pink wool and angora cardigan, by Crochetta, £10. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, £5. Cream and brown printed short-sleeved blouse with two breast pockets, matching skirt with elasticated waistband, £11.60 the set. All by Universal Witness. Green wool and angora cardigan with ribbed waistband, by Crochetta, £10.

Brown felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Pink and violet print blouse with cape collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long cream boucle cardigan with hip pockets and tie belt, by Crochetta, £13. Black jersey skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black and white lace-up ankle boots, by Terry de Haviland, £15.99. Wool gloves, by Morley, 72p. Grey felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Blue and white spotted sleeveless blouse, with cowl collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long white ribbed cardigan with hip pockets, by Twomax, £7.50. Long grey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black wool gloves from a selection at Browns.

Black cotton shirt with floral print, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Camel cardigan with V-neck and thin white stripes, by Virginia, £15. Black jersey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Cream jersey dress with scalloped Peter Pan collar, by Gillian Richard, £9.80. Long navy blue cardigan with round neck, by McCaul, £4. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.

Sweater Girl!

1970s, Adrian Mann, Annie Cossins, bill klein, Bourne & Hollingsworth, Browns, City Lights, Inspirational Images, John Ashpool, kangol, Knitting Inc, knitwear, Laurie and McConnell, lord john, Marcia Brackett, McCaul, petticoat magazine, Sharcleod, Swan & Edgar, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials

Left: Lord John sweater £18.95, Upstairs SW3, W1. Snake belt, £2, Way In. Right: Annie Cossins sweater, £4.95, mail order plus 25p p. & p. 248 Sarleigh Rd, Warlingham, Surrey. Beret by Kangol, £1.60. Scarf from Van der Fransen, £1.

We cheered the twinset revolution earlier this year, now amazing things are happening to sweaters. They look good and they’re warm as well. It’s no wonder that they’re the fastest selling items in the shops!

Pictures taken at Picketts Lock Centre, Picketts Lane, N9. Hair by Christine at Mane Line.

Fashion by Marcia Brackett.

Photographed by Bill Klein.

Scanned from Petticoat, December 8th 1973.

Left: Shar Cleod sweater, £5.10, Swan & Edgar, Wl. Necklace, City Lights Studio, WC2. Bangles by Adrien Mann. Right: Annie Cossins sweater, £4.95, mail order, plus 25p p. & p. from 248 Sarleigh Road, Warlingham, Surrey. Belt, Way In, SW1.

Left: Sweater by John Ashpool for Knitting Inc., £25, Browns, Wl, Chic, Hampstead. Hat, Rosie Nice, W9. Right: Sweater by Knitting Inc., £32, Browns, Wl. Scarf Van der Fransen, £1.

Left: Green sky-scraper sweater with elbow sleeves, by Annie Cossins, £4.95 from 248 Sarleigh Road, Warlingham, Surrey (plus 25p p. & p). Right: McCauls sweater, £4, from Laurie and McConnell, Cambridge. Kangol berets, £1.60. Bourne & Hollingsworth belts, £1.20.

Art Can Be a Wearing Business

1970s, Alain Demange, allen jones, Blades, Browns, Carlton Payne, christa peters, David Hockney, Elizabeth Frink, Erica Crome, Erte, Jasper, Man-Shih Yang, Mensday, menswear, Murray Salem, New Man, Patrick Hughes, ritva, Simpson of Piccadilly, Vogue

Left To Right: Patrick Hughes’ numerical applique worn by Man-Shih Yang, 24, classical composer from Hong Kong. David Hockney’s applique, worn by Alain Demange, 21, French fashion designer. Elizabeth Frink’s bird applique, worn by Carlton Payne, 30, Jamaican jewellery and fashion designer. Allen Jones’ black leg applique, worn by Murray Salem, 21, Actor From Cleveland, Ohio. All appliques on Ritva sweaters, £40 each, at Blades. Velvet jeans, first three, New Man, £12, Browns: Right, by Jupiter, £10.50, Pant House.

A brilliant line-up of the now legendary Ritva jumpers, designed by four of the most well-known British artists of the time, and a series of shirts by Jasper with Erté prints. Menswear? Pah! I’ll take them all please!

Fashion by Erica Crome.

Photographed by Christa Peters.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1971.

Prints designed by Erte on pure slubbed silk shirts, Left to Right: Adam and Eve shirt worn by Murray Salem, in white and gold with red and green on midnight blue. Night and Day shirts: the frontview, Day, worn by Carlton Payne, in off white with golden yellow and brown sunflower, midnight blue collar and sleeve. Backview, Night, worn by Alain Demange, in midnight blue with swirls of white and bright blue stars and bats, orange, maroon and yellow owls. Black shirt With big cats in red with yellow eyes on the front and back, worn by Man-Shih Yang. Shirts by Jasper, £27, From Trend at Simpson. Velvet jeans, £12, at Browns.

Mixed Spice

1970s, Browns, Chelsea Antiques Market, Emmerton and Lambert, Inspirational Images, Mohanjeet, Sacha, sunday times magazine, Valerie Wade, Vintage Editorials

There is nothing formal about these clothes even though a few years ago most people would have thought they were. They look exotic because the fabrics are either Eastern, or mixtures of Twenties silks and chiffons. Everything is quite simply cut and easy to wear; it is only the fabric combinations that are elaborate. There are many women who don’t like to admit, even to themselves, that clothes are of any importance in their lives — just because they are not striding around in shorts doesn’t mean that they lack style, they just don’t want to be instantly pigeon-holed by what they wear. The clothes shown here are perfect for all those women who “don’t care about fashion”.

Report by Valerie Wade.

Photographed by Sasha.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, April 4th 1971.

New dress from old fabrics; the bloomers are Thirties patchwork silks, the bodice is Indian and the sleeves Persian. Obviously no two are identical. From Emmerton and Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market, 253 Kings Road, SW3, £25.

Indian quilted chiffon skirt and bolero (£32) over gold painted chiffon blouse (also on cover), £10. All by Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, W1.

Skirt and blouse made from Twenties and Thirties silk chiffons. Skirt £15, blouse £10. From Emmerton and Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market, 253 Kings Road, SW3.

Reversible Indian wrap-around skirt and jacket in soft quilted lawn, £45. By Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, London, W1.

Multi-patterned dress in thick Indian cotton, £28. By Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, W1

What turns summer nights into midsummer evenings?

1970s, anne schaufuss, belinda bellville, Browns, chelsea cobbler, david bailey, Emmanuelle Khanh, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, medusa, pablo and delia, Simone Mirman, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent

Dress by Medusa. Hat from Herbert Johnson.

This is the moment for evening clothes that feel as delicious as they look… they’re soft voile or fine jersey or crushed muslin, they’re cut out over suntanned backs and arms, they’re crisp cotton printed with cottage curtain flowers, they’re as easy to wear as nightdresses: and some of them are.

Photographed at Lake Windermere and the Beech Hill Hotel, Cartmel Fell.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1972.

Dress to order at Browns. Hat from Simone Mirman. Choker from Arabesque.

Dress by Pablo and Delia at Browns. Hat by Herbert Johnson. Sandals by Richard Smith at The Chelsea Cobbler.

Clothes by Emmanuelle Khanh. Hat by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

Clothes that help you hang on to your money

1970s, Alex Chatelain, Ambalu, Browns, Burtons, bus stop, Butler & Wilson, chelsea cobbler, cornucopia, cosmopolitan, Elle, Flight Studios, janet reger, jap, John Craig, Joseph, kangol, Kickers, Knitcraft, lee bender, mr freedom, mushroom, Pattie Barron, Shelana, Spectrum, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials

Chinese satin top and pants by Ambalu. / Thirties lingerie set by John Craig. Satin panties by Janet Reger. Necklace from Butler and Wilson.

First-job salaries can present problems when you’re not used to juggling the rent around a new skirt or sweater. But there are ways—as you’ll see on these pages—of looking not just good, but positively great on a tight budget. Learn the rules of the “looking-good-on-a-little” game . . . remember that one pair of pants at £10+ will outlive two pairs that split whenever you sit down; that washable fabrics mean you’ll have no cleaning bills. Learn how to bleach and dye, starch and press properly—so you’ll be able to match vest tops and T-shirts to your new longer flowery skirts and keep them looking fresh. Invest in beautiful leather shoes: they last and look good if polished every day. Spend more on accessories —sometimes—than a new dress. Build your wardrobe around two or three colours—as crazy as you like—and find jolly extras to pull it all together. . . . This may be the summer you always wear a hat. Here is my choice of nine outfits . . . chic, very wearable and all cheap at the price. That’s fashion knowhow.

Fashion by Pattie Barron.

Photographed by Alex Chatelain.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, July 1974.