There is a licence to touch all the clothes on these pages. There is not a single trad, scratchy, thornproof tweed among any of the frankly tactile silks, angoras and flannels of autumn. Jerseys and pearls and sensible shoes were once the uniform of the WI. Now, (well) kept ladies whose fingers smell of “Cabochard” rather than cabbage, are pressing their flannel bags, having their pearls restrung and are wearing them with shirts so unbuttoned they could catch pneumonia – and heels high enough to rise above the muddiest farmyard. They are taking to pleated kilts, and cashmere sweaters so tight they’d enliven the dullest game of backgammon. Dinner dresses are back in style, and I do mean back down as far as you can go. Properly and provocatively dressed, a weekend in the country might be more fun than you think.
Hair arranged for all pictures by Carl of Molton Brown.
Naturally mouse hair is usually limp so it needs extra life, extra lift, extra bounce. All this can be achieved by very, very fine highlighting. Keep away from obvious streaks, let your hair look instead as if it’s just come out of the sun. An expert will know exactly which colours to choose for you, exactly the right depth and contrast of highlighting. You can have water-rinse streaks or permanent; you can have your own hair coloured, or your hairpiece. The subtly streaked hair, left, is controlled at the top, combed into waves, then frizzed into a soft cloud at the shoulders. The make-up has the same romantic, pre-Raphaelite look with Orlane’s Satilane beige no. 4 with brush-on rouge no. 3. Eyes: cream pearl shadow in Bleu Perle, Bleu Marine roll-on mascara. Lipstick: beige-pink Paprika. Necklace: an eagle from the Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market. Hair colour, here, and in the picture, above, by Daniel, styling by Leonard, both from the House of Leonard.
Spring has taken on a romantic air – with light dresses, billowing skirts and full sleeves. The fabric for day is cotton, especially voile. For evening, crepe is a great favourite. The lines are seductive – wear low v-necks, hats with lots of veiling and an antique brooch. Find an old shawl or crochet your own. If you’ve time to hunt you needn’t spend much money.
Some of my favourite designers, my favourite looks, one of my favourite photographers and two of my favourite models: Charlotte Martin and Mouche. Perfection.
Clothes by Missoni. Butterflies and beads from The Purple Shop.
Ottavio and Rosita Missoni are to Italian knit as Gucci is to leather. Using inspiration from original an unexpected quarters – a piece of antique porcelain, a fragment of embroidery, a picture painted by someone they then employ in their factory and train to use their knitting machines – together they produce the most beautiful knits in ravishing colours, extraordinary patterns and perfect shapes.
Photographed by Barry Lategan.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1971.
Clothes by Missoni. Pendant from The Purple Shop. Shoes from K Shoes.
Clothes by Missoni. Claret platforms by Charles Jourdan.
Clothes by Missoni. Feather choker from The Purple Shop. Suede sandals by Pedro Garcia for Russell & Bromley.
Crepe skirt and printed chiffon blouse both at Quorum. Pink patent shoes at Elliott. Tights from Bus Stop.
If you are prepared to forsake the mini this summer for the midi or maxi, you will find that designers have compensated for covering the legs by boldly slashing the skirts at the front, the back and the sides. Photographed at The Chelsea Drug Store.
This is a fascinating editorial for a few reasons. Firstly it is photographed at the legendary Chelsea Drug Store, showing off the incredible interior to perfection. It singularly fails to credit Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell with their garments for Quorum (an odd oversight given their fame at the time…). It is also a glorious insight into the mini/midi/maxi debate of 1970 and shows us the transition between late Sixties style and the early Seventies. The clothes are familiar as early Seventies, but the shoes are not yet platform and still stuck in a low block heel.
Photographed by Hans Feurer. Styled by Cherry Twiss.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Telegraph Magazine (exact date unknown, Spring 1970)
Cream jersey dress at Marrian McDonnell. Gold sandals at Elliott. Onyx and silver ring from The Purple Shop.
Printed voile dress by Mary Quant. Suede granny shoes by Elliott. Victorian pendant at The Purple Shop, Chelsea Antiques Market.
Orange crepe dress at Bus Stop. Orange suede sandals at Elliott.
Dress by Radley Gowns from Quorum. Shoes from Kurt Geiger. Victorian pendant from The Purple Shop.
Divine at his toilet, using On-Stage make-up available from Nina Campbell. His toga is Zandra Rhodes printed silk, ‘Mexican Turnabout’. Bracelets and brooch by The Purple Shop, 15 Flood Street. Rings and drop earrings by Adrien Mann, small diamond earrings by Ken Lane, brooches on washbasin from Andrew Logan’s Galactic collection. Make-up by Richard Sharah, wigs by Wig Creations.
Nina Campbell’s own bathroom in a typically-shaped turn-of-the-century Kensington mansion flat. The narrowness of the room is minimised by slicking over with a glossy American vinyl wall—covering. All services are on the left-hand wall, the right is covered with framed prints. Theatrical lighting focusses the mirror overthe washbasin. Nina Campbell is at 48 Walton Street, SW3
Divine — the larger-than-life star of ‘Pink Flamingos’ and John Waters’s other iconoclastic films — illustrates the bathroom theatrical, as well he might. He was seen in London in ’Women Behind Bars’ and opens this month in ‘The Thorn’ in New York. As he posed for photographs the photographer said ‘that’s too butch.’ ‘what a wonderful country England is,’ replied Divine. ‘where a half-inch blusher brush is too butch.’
Photographs by Peter Warner. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, September 1980
Divine bathing in Jean Harlow mood. Abandoned ball dress by Zandra Rhodes. Shell ring by Andrew Logan, £40 from 15 Appold Street, EC2. Chocolates by Charbonnel et Walker.
Tom Parr of Colefax & Fowler, 39 Brook Street, W1, designed this St John’s Wood bathroom. Double mahogany doors open into the room, with large windows on two walls panelled to dado level with mahogany. The festooned windows look out on to a garden. Bath and basin are topped with marble, taps are Edwardian reproductions by Czech 8 Speake, 88 Jermyn Street, SW1.