Saints Alive

1970s, chelsea girl, Chester Martin, david hurn, Diane Logan, Herbert Johnson, Lewis Separates, Marks and Spencer, mr freedom, Mr Wik, petticoat magazine, Rosie Nice, Sue Hone
Herbert Johnson belt, £2.10. Cotton skirt, £3.50 and shorts, £1.99. Chester Martin scarf, £3.50. Crepe shirt, £1.99½ from Girl branches and Chelsea Girl. Quant tights, 75p. Crochet bag, Diane Logan, £6.

The Young St. Michael range power-packed with its new mid-May collection.

The Young St. Michael range is only available at Oxford Circus. Glasgow, Brighton, Liverpool and Manchester at the moment.

Curiously, I have the scarf she’s wearing in the top photo and I had always assumed it was authentic 1930s – as it was sold to me. Now I look closer, I can see the faded signature of Chester Martin. Whilst I’m disappointed that it’s not actually as old as I thought, I can’t resist a documented bit of vintage!

Fashion by Sue Hone.

Photographed by David Hurn.

Scanned from Petticoat, 22nd May 1971.

Crimplene blouse, £2.99, with terylene and linen dungarees, £4.50. Mr Wik clogs, £3. Mr Freedom tin belt, £5.25. Chester Martin scarf, £3.50.
Terylene and linen shorts with buttons, £1.99. Daisy print cotton blouse, £2.99. Rosie Nice jacket, £3. Quant tights, 75p.
Midi crimplene dress, £5.75 approx. Vest from Lewis Separates, £1.49½.

With Reference To The Past

19 magazine, 1970s, Browns, cacharel, coopers, Crochetta, Deco Inspired, edward mann, erica budd, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Ku Khanh, lord john, Norma Moriceau, Riva, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, terry de havilland, tuttabankem, Twomax, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, Virginia, Vivienne Lynn
Rust-coloured felt hat with rose trimming from a selection at Van Der Fransen. French Dresden blue shirt with pink and lilac floral print, by Jeff Banks, £6.50. Grey boucle cardigan with short puff sleeves and front fastening, by Crochetta, £6.50. Pale blue circular barathea skirt, by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers, £12. Scarf by Herbert Johnson, £3-15. Green straw hat with rose trimming, from Universal Witness, £5. Blue sweater with long sleeves and round neck, £2.45. Matching short-sleeved cardigan with wrap-over front, £3.45. Both by Erica Budd. Grey crepe Oxford bags with pleated front, by Tuttabankem, £17-50.

Ten years ago, the British woman was bound to her cardigan. Then, in a feverish review of fashion, the cardigan was shelved for the jacket. Now, it’s back in circulation, not as the rather insipid number of yesteryear, but renewed in a long wrap-around version — the sort you cuddle into when it’s cold outside, the sort you wear over dresses, jeans or even suits. Cardigans like this are the most practical knitwear created for ages and the Paris Collections, if they spell excitement to you, were full of them.

All jewellery in feature from a selection at Marie Middleton and Susan Marsh at Chelsea Antique Market. Gold-rimmed glasses from any good optician.

Modelled by Vivienne Lynn and unknown model.

Styling by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by Ku Khanh.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, January 1973.

Dark green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale green fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Cream bouclé short-sleeved cardigan with very thin stripes, by Crochetta, £8. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale yellow fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Yellow cardigan with two pockets on hips, by Twomax, £4.50.
Sweater and matching cardigan in blue tweed mixture with beige and brown trims, from Upstairs at Lord John, £25 the set. Camel barathea skirt with full front flap, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11.95. White shirt with black and yellow floral print, by Riva, £4-95. Grey cardigan with yellow stripe, by Virginia, £14. Grey wrap-over barathea skirt with pockets on hips, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11-95. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.
Green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale blue flower-printed sleeveless blouse with cowl neck, £4. Brown flowered crepe skirt, £6. Both from Van Der Fransen. Pink wool and angora cardigan, by Crochetta, £10. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, £5. Cream and brown printed short-sleeved blouse with two breast pockets, matching skirt with elasticated waistband, £11.60 the set. All by Universal Witness. Green wool and angora cardigan with ribbed waistband, by Crochetta, £10.
Brown felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Pink and violet print blouse with cape collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long cream boucle cardigan with hip pockets and tie belt, by Crochetta, £13. Black jersey skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black and white lace-up ankle boots, by Terry de Haviland, £15.99. Wool gloves, by Morley, 72p. Grey felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Blue and white spotted sleeveless blouse, with cowl collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long white ribbed cardigan with hip pockets, by Twomax, £7.50. Long grey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black wool gloves from a selection at Browns.
Black cotton shirt with floral print, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Camel cardigan with V-neck and thin white stripes, by Virginia, £15. Black jersey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Cream jersey dress with scalloped Peter Pan collar, by Gillian Richard, £9.80. Long navy blue cardigan with round neck, by McCaul, £4. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.

The Soft Touch

1970s, annacat, Ballantyne, Buckle Under, C&A, coopers, cosmopolitan, Deirdre McSharry, Fenwick, Herbert Johnson, Ian Knipe, Inspirational Images, irvine sellars, Janet Ibbotson, Jasper, jean varon, Jenny Harrington, john bates, John Craig, john kelly, Samm, Spectrum, terry de havilland, The Purple Shop, Trille, Turnbull & Asser, Vintage Editorials
Just the jacket, for interviewing the gardener… if he’s as handsome as Ian Knipe. Trille does the Lady Bountiful bit in yellow and a romantic hat. Jacket C&A £9.95, felt hat by Herbert Johnson, pearls by Ciro. Yellow angora sweater by John Craig, £2.10.

There is a licence to touch all the clothes on these pages. There is not a single trad, scratchy, thornproof tweed among any of the frankly tactile silks, angoras and flannels of autumn. Jerseys and pearls and sensible shoes were once the uniform of the WI. Now, (well) kept ladies whose fingers smell of “Cabochard” rather than cabbage, are pressing their flannel bags, having their pearls restrung and are wearing them with shirts so unbuttoned they could catch pneumonia – and heels high enough to rise above the muddiest farmyard. They are taking to pleated kilts, and cashmere sweaters so tight they’d enliven the dullest game of backgammon. Dinner dresses are back in style, and I do mean back down as far as you can go. Properly and provocatively dressed, a weekend in the country might be more fun than you think.

Hair arranged for all pictures by Carl of Molton Brown.

Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by John Kelly.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, October 1972.

Give into the call of the wild, but come on softly in silk, angora and flannel. Jenny Harrington sends Ian Knipe slightly wild in her silk shirt, £15, flannel bags £16.50 by Annacat, and angora cardigan, John Craig £5. Fish pendant by Ciro. Ian’s camelhair sweater Ballantyne, £11.50. (Inset: The smoothest tweed in the softest shape will make you want to throw away your old trench. A great way to look for opening bazaars – and coping with Mellors. Coat by Coopers £33, hat by Herbert Johnson, £8.95.)
What would the WI say? Trille lolls about in cashmere sweater, skirt and pearls- -and shoes too high for country lawns. Sweater £11, skirt £30, both by Ballantyne. Pearls by Ciro. Shoes by Samm, £7.50.
Who’s for backgammon? Trille and Jenny get down to it (right) in necklines that ought to fetch the men from their port, on the double. Trille in red jersey dinner dress, John Bates for Jean Varon £16.75, shoes by Terry de Havilland £15.95, pearls by Ciro. Jenny in cream satin shirt by Coopers, £8, and pleated plaid skirt, Gor-Ray f11.95. Red shoes by Samm, £7.50.
The sporting life means quick repairs on the run. Jenny puts back the paint, stays ladylike in powder soft suede and silk. Jacket and skirt by Janet Ibbotson; the jacket costs £38, the skirt £33.50. Silk shirt Fenwicks, £11.50. Jewellery and shagreen compact from The Purple Shop. Shoes by Samm, £7.95.
Long weekends can lead to explosive situations – Jenny ignites something in her cashmere and kilt. Sweater by Ballantyne £13.50, skirt by Gor-Ray £11.95, shoes by Terry de Havilland £15.95. Pearls by Ciro. Ian in ruffled lawn shirt, Turnbull and Asser £11.75, check trousers Irvine Sellars £5.95.
By dawn’s early light a lady likes to relax. Ian wears C & A velvet suit £28; Trille in taffeta skirt and blouse, £5.50 each from Spectrum. Rose 84p from Spectrum. Shoes by Terry de Havilland, £12.99.
The softest touch of all is this mohair sweater (right), and a far cry from the clumpy rustic knits we used to wear. Jenny puts the new country clothes together gently—pink sweater, Buckle Under £12, pink wool skirt, Spectrum £6.95, hat by Herbert Johnson £7.50. Ian’s shirt by Jasper £5.50, check trousers £6.95 by Irvine Sellars. (Inset: Soft again —cream flannel blouse and satin trousers whipped up with beads and roses. Jenny’s blouse £5.50, trousers £5.50, flowers 84p, all from Spectrum. Ian’s blue shirt by Mr Harry £7.65.)

Smarter Than You Think

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, bus stop, chelsea cobbler, Deco Inspired, gillian richard, gordon king, Harri Peccinotti, Herbert Johnson, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, lee bender, manolo blahnik, nostalgia, Olaf Daughters of Sweden, stirling cooper, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials, zapata
Maroon hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Navy crêpe de Chine suit, with ruched trim on cuffs and two-button fastening, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £15.95. Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Navy leather shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95. Black bag from a selection at Biba. Navy gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black crêpe de Chine suit, with pink floral pattern and black and white geometric buttons, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. £11.95. Grey tiohts, by Mary Quant, 40p. Navy patent shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £15.95. Black poche from a selection at Biba. Black gloves from a selection at Nostalgia.

That’s what you’ll be in the latest Fifties-style suits and dresses.

Photographed by Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1973.

Black beret, by Kangol, £1.60. Grey crêpe dress, with ruched front, plain skirt and matching bolero, by Gillian Richard, £12-50 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p Black leather bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Onyx hatpin, from Chimera, £3. Black straw hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey crepe clingy dress, with V shaped collar at back and front and cross-over straps, by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper, £11 95 Grey tights by Mary Quant, 40p Black leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95 Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Hatpin, from Chimera, £1
Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown, cream and black check woollen suit, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £16.95 Cream tights, from Biba, 30p. Brown leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, 17 95 Brown crocodile bag, from Chimera at Antiquarius, £8. Brown gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Rust, green and beige Argyll jacquard dress, by Gordon King, £15 Plain seamed tights, by Pretty Polly, 41p. Brown leather court shoes, from Zapata, E19. Brown crocodile bag from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Cotton scarves, from Herbert Jobnson, 32p each
Tomato, beige and brown jacquard turban. E1-25. Crêpe shirt, E7-95. Both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Orange gaberdine skirt, by Gordon King, £1050. Jacket, with open front and two-button lapel fastening. matches turban, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. £8 95. Tights by Pretty Polly, 41p. Shoes from Zapata, £19. Bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black straw hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Gaberdine skirt, by Stirling Cooper. £8 50. Check woollen jacket (comes with matching trousers, not shown), by Gordon King. £28. Cream tights from Biba. 30p. Shoes from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95.
Duck-egg blue hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Black suit, with blue and yellow floral trim on collar and cuffs, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £13.95 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p Black and white snakeskin and suede shoes, by Terry de Havilland, X16 Black bag from a selection at Biba Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown and cream jacket with tightly belted waist and toning skirt, by Gordon King, £29 Cream tights, from Biba, 30p Brown and white leather court shoes, by Terry de Havilland, £14. Brown crocodile bag, from Chimera, £8 Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Scarf from a selection at Essences.
Blue hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Blue crêpe dress, with white trim on front and cuffs, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, 111.95 Grey tights. by Mary Quant, 40p. Blue leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, 117 95. Bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Blue printed dress, with snail pattern and white trim, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, 111 95 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Blue leather shoes, with peep-toes, from Olaf Daughters of Sweden, 19.90 Black bag from a selection at Biba. Blue gloves from a selection at Nostalgia.
Maroon hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey jacquard below-the-knee dress, with maroon print. by Gordon King. £1450 Crocodile handbag from a selection at Essences. Maroon gloves from a selection at Harrods. Maroon and white spotted cotton scarf, from Herbert Johnson. 32p. Black hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey jacquard calf-length dress, with square neckline and collar trim, by Gordon King. £15. Black poche from a selection at Biba. Black gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Onyx hat-pin, from Chimera, £3.

Well Dressed

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, Antiquarius, biba, Chelsea Antiques Market, Essenses, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, Michael Berkofsky, Ronald Keith, Sacha, Spectrum, stirling cooper, susan marsh, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Cream Trevira cotton dress by Gillian Richard. Black patent shoes from Sacha. Silk scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Papier mache bangles by Fabrice for Zig Zag. / White cotton pull on hat from Herbert Johnson. Blue and white cotton dress from Spectrum. White peep toe shoes from Ronald Keith. White gloves by Cornelia James. Necklace and bangle from a selection at Zig Zag. Bag from Universal Witness.

Spring’s in the air – and with it the chance to wear all those elegant eye-catching dresses. If you’ve been feeling bundled up in woolies, here’s the chance to look feminine again.

All photographs taken at the Hyde Park Hotel, Knightsbridge, SW1.

Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1973.

Green and white spotted scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Soft green dress with flower print from Van Der Fransen. Belt inset with flowers and elephant clasp, and matching bangle, both from Biba. / Lilac and mauve ankle length dress with purple rosette trim from Van Der Fransen. Pink metallic platform shoes from Sacha.
Cotton mid calf dress from Biba. Gloves from Cornelia James. Beads from a selection at Susan Marsh at the Chelsea Antique Market. White bangles from Adrien Mann. / Pink cotton smock with floral print, yellow cotton skirt, both from Biba. Gloves by Cornelia James.
White cotton hat from Herbert Johnson. Blue and white dress from a selection of elegant old dresses at Van Der Fransen. Black patent shoes from Sacha. / Blue and white fan print dress from a selection at Van Der Fransen. White peep toes with flower trim from Ronald Keith.
White cotton hat from Herbert Johnson. Blue and white striped jersey dress by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper. Shoes by Sacha. / Blue and white striped dress by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Ronald Keith.

What turns summer nights into midsummer evenings?

1970s, anne schaufuss, belinda bellville, Browns, chelsea cobbler, david bailey, Emmanuelle Khanh, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, medusa, pablo and delia, Simone Mirman, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Dress by Medusa. Hat from Herbert Johnson.

This is the moment for evening clothes that feel as delicious as they look… they’re soft voile or fine jersey or crushed muslin, they’re cut out over suntanned backs and arms, they’re crisp cotton printed with cottage curtain flowers, they’re as easy to wear as nightdresses: and some of them are.

Photographed at Lake Windermere and the Beech Hill Hotel, Cartmel Fell.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1972.

Dress to order at Browns. Hat from Simone Mirman. Choker from Arabesque.
Dress by Pablo and Delia at Browns. Hat by Herbert Johnson. Sandals by Richard Smith at The Chelsea Cobbler.
Clothes by Emmanuelle Khanh. Hat by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Dress by Bellville Sassoon.

The Main Attraction

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, Brosseau, bus stop, crowthers, edward mann, florrie carr, Fogg and Wakefield, Harri Peccinotti, harriet, Herbert Johnson, hollywood clothes shop, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, Jasper, Jean Charles Brosseau, Jolly and Marsh, kensington market, lee bender, Marielle, mary quant, ravel, Rosie Nice, Sacha, Sportaville, Titfers, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Red spotty blouse in burnt out crepe, worn over black, red and white printed Dycella skirt by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Red tights by Lovely Lady. Scarf by Jasper. Black leather t-bar shoes from Sacha. Bag and bangles from a selection at Jolly and Marsh. Sweetheart brooch from Universal Witness. / Red cloche hat by Titfers. Dress in three different prints by Van der Fransen. Tights by Mary Quant. Shoes by Sacha. Red gloves from Van der Fransen. Necklace and bangles from Jolly and Marsh, Kensington Market. / Little pink bows on a white moss crepe dress by Florrie Carr. Artificial flowers in hair are by Fogg and Wakefield.

The main attraction of this summer’s printed dress is their little-girl, Sunday-best quality. The star fabric is floral crepe-de-Chine, now beautifully revived, featuring softly shaped skirts, Peter Pan collars and puff sleeves.

Another flawless example of early Seventies nostalgia for the Thirties and Forties, which might seem frivolous or twee if it wasn’t in the talented hands of Mr Peccinotti.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, March 1971.

Multi coloured rayon crepe dress from a nearly new selection at Van der Fransen. Blue suede shoes by Mary Quant. / Calf-length crepe de Chine dress by Marielle. Black leather high heeled shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Yellow sisal hat by Jean-Charles Brosseau. Crepe de Chine dress by Mary Quant. Lilac suede shoes by Mary Quant.
Brown cotton voile dress and tights by Mary Quant. White strappy sandals by Ravel. / Brown rayon jersey dress by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Beige suede slingbacks by Mary Qant. Scarf from a selection at Rosie Nice, Kensington Market. / Navy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Navy spotted rayon crepe dress from Van der Fransen. Brown suede shoes by Sacha. / Lilac cloche by Edward Mann. Rayon georgette blouse and purple velvet skirt both from Crowthers. Mauve patent sandals from Ravel.
Brown printed georgette suit from Bus Stop. Green leather wedge heeled shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Burgundy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Black georgette suit from Bus Stop. Black three bar shoes by Sacha. / Green straw hat from a selection at Van der Fransen. Rayon georgette dress by Mary Quant. Green leather shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Yellow hat by Jean-Charles Brosseau. Red, white and bloue dress by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Patent wedge sandals by Ravel.
Pale mustard puff sleeved dress by Biba. Brown patent two-strap shoes by Sacha. Scarf by Jasper. / Cream sisal hat by Bermona. Black tea dance dress with delicate white flowery print by Biba. White leather sandals by Ravel. / Navy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Navy cotton dress by Harriet. Black shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop.

Wild in the Country

1970s, Angela at London Town, Antiquarius, biba, Butler & Wilson, Cordoba, Crochetta, Elliott, Foale and Tuffin, Hans Metzen, harriet, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, John Carter, miss selfridge, petticoat magazine, ravel, Ric Rac, Russell & Bromley, Sue Hone, Sujon, Titfers, Travers Tempos, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, wallis
Star vest dress, belt and hat from Cordoba. Elliott lace up sandals. Ric Rac cotton patch blouse.

Slip a shawl over summer and dream the days away in a land of your imagination. There couldn’t be a more beautiful way of letting a long sticky heatwave slip by than with these gentle colours made by a bleaching sun and these homespun clothes in soft country shapes. Whether you make it all the way to a shady plantation or just as far as the nearest cornfield, the scenery around any home this summer should look pretty good. Build up layers of cotton checs, sand suede overslips and warm rainbow knit waistcoats because even the sun can havee tantrums sometimes. Pack a pair of laced sandals and one huge-brimed straw hat.

Fashion by Sue Hone.

Photographed by John Carter.

Scanned from Petticoat, 22nd May 1971.

Travers Tempos cotton madras skirt. Angela puff sleeve blouse. Harriett bolero. Butler and Wilson bracelet. Russell and Bromley sandals. / Sujon long madras skirt and vest top. Butler and Wilson pendant. Van der Fransen shawl. Miss Selfridge bag.
Hans Metzen skirt, jacket and shorts. Ravel sandals. Herbert Johnson wool belt. Antiquarius pendant.
Tie-dyed quilted cotton dress from Wallis shops. Butler and Wilson flower necklace. Ravel sandals. Biba scarf.
Voile kaftan by Ric Rac. Multi-coloured shorts by Foale and Tuffin. Crochetta bolero. Ravel sandals. Titfers bag.
Crepe skirt and matching blouse by Van der Fransen. Elliott lace up leg sandals. Choker from Butler and Wilson.
Travers Tempos madras cotton dress. Crochet waistcoat by Crochetta.

A Clutch of Bags

1970s, alistair cowin, Angela at London Town, bags, biba, caroline smith, Elle, flair magazine, gordon king, Herbert Johnson, Illustrations, Pierre Elegante, Sujon, Titfers
From left to right: Black satin Oxford bags, Angela at London Town £5; black satin clutch bag with rhinestone star, Titfers £8. Orange and red blanket check pure wool bags with turn ups, Pierre Elegante £8; yellow felt clutch bag with navy satin trim and flower button, Titfers £4. Wool gaberdine rust Oxford bags with winged pockets and turn ups, Gordon King £7.50; navy felt clutch bag with white anchor and white satin trim, Titfers £4; cotton kerchief square 40p, Herbert Johnson. Rust two toned patterned wool tweed trousers with turn ups, Biba £5.50; Black suede clutch bag with rust suede trim, Biba £7.75. Red acrylic wool Oxford bags, Alistair Cowin £6.50; black blue and beige chevron felt clutch bag, Titfers, £4.20. Rust brown and ochre checked wool tweed bags with turn ups, Sujon £9.50; golden suede clutch bag with tortoiseshell flap, Elle £12.50.

This autumn there are bags everywhere: Oxford ones on your pins and clutch ones in the hand. The return of the straight trouser has brought with it wing lapelled jackets with padded shoulders and neat waistcoats. Underneath, a feminine touch to soften the butch look, blouses with floppy painters’ bows. And don’t forget your clutch bag tucked neatly under your arm.

Illustration by Caroline Smith.

Scanned from Flair, November 1971.

The Great Imposters

1970s, anello and davide, aquascutum, Beged'Or, Bermona, Borg, caroline baker, chelsea cobbler, Dada, Feathers, Herbert Johnson, jane whiteside, Jonvelle, kensington market, kurt geiger, laura ashley, Laura Jamieson, Lizzie Carr, Martha Hill, Mexicana, Mog, Morel, nova magazine, peter robinson, Russell & Bromley, Selfridges, stirling cooper, the souk, The Sweet Shop, velmar, Vintage Editorials, Wild Mustang Co.
Tissavel-lined Galaxy coat by Beged’Or approx. £50; cotton blouse by Mexicana, £13; fur fabric jeans by Newmans, 12 gns; hairy slipper boots at Russell & Bromley, £6 19s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; hatband made from an Estonian tie at the Russian Shop, 7s 6d; fur bag at The Souk, £3 5s; wool gloves at Dickins & Jones, 10s:

Leather and fur get more expensive every year. It’s not only the taxes and rising costs of production. It’s just that there aren’t enough good animal skins for leather around to meet the consumer demand. Furs are there in quantity for the fabulously rich. Luckily a good substitute has been found – the nylon-spun, man-made sort. Some, especially in the leather field, are so like the real thing the only way you can tell the difference is by the smell. Take the white coat on pages 46 and 47. It’s fake and costs about £50. It has a double in real fur and leather for £270. Made by the same people who have duplicated most of their collection this way and it takes an eagle eye and nose to tell the difference. Others are just furry, woolly fabrics, obviously not imitating some four-legged friend, which is one of the nicest things about them. This fur fabric is now getting the treatment it deserves. Nairn Williamson (more famous for their Vinyl floor and wall coverings) were the first to see its potential and got six designers to use their Velmar fur fabric in their winter collections. Jane Whiteside for Stirling Cooper (new label getting famous fast for their beautiful jersey co-ordinates) was the cleverest of them all. She used the best sludgy colours, mixed it with needlecord to make a group of jackets and coats to go with trousers, skirts and blouses. Borg (American originated and the pioneers in England of this deep pile fabric) has been around for a long time, mostly on the inside of duffle and raincoats but it’s on the outside as a normal fabric that it looks its best. Next winter there will be a lot more of it around, now that designers are getting less snobby about plastics. Not only is it as warm as fur, it is, of course, much cheaper and you don’t smell like a wet dog when you come in from the rain, either. So you can wear it herding sheep on lost weekends, or in town queuing for the cinema without any guilt feelings about ruining your assets.

Insert obligatory ‘I don’t agree with the thrust of the argument for fake furs as just a financial consideration here’ caveat from me, your content provider. Don’t shout at me, basically. But it’s an interesting insight into the mindset of 1970, and the proliferation of fake furs and skins at that time. It’s also a breathtakingly styled and photographed work of art from Caroline Baker and Jonvelle.

Fashion by Caroline Baker.

Photographed by Jonvelle.

Scanned from Nova, January 1970.

Mediaeval velvet applique dress by Laura Jamieson at The Sweetshop, 20 gns; Tissavel and Galaxy waistcoat by Beged’Or, £22.
Velmar jacket and needlecord trousers by Stirling Cooper, £8 10s., £5 1Gs; leggings by Chelsea Cobbler, to order, 10 gns; cotton shirt from selection at Dada, Kensington Antique Market from 2 gns.
Acrilan jacket by Lizzie Carr approx. 24 gns; suede trousers by Morel, 17 gns, tied with leather strips from John Lewis Haberdashery Dept, 1s 10d per yard; wellingtons at Russell and Bromley, £3 19s; woven sash wrapped around neck at Herbert Johnson, 25s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; wool gloves at Selfridges, &s 11d
Velmar and Courtelle trousers by Martha Hill, approx. 8 gns; poncho at Peter Robinson, £7; wool shirt by Stirling Cooper, £4 5s; studded wristlet by Knees at Kensington Antique Market, 1 gn; suede moccasin boots by Anello & Davide, £8 15s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; sheepskin rug from The Souk from £3 19s 6d to £6; flask from Kensington Antique Market.
Velmar fur fabric floor length coat trimmed with canvas by Mog, £20, over long cotton nightgown by Laura Ashley, £5; knitted wool socks at Feathers, £1 1s 6d
Velmar coat with needlecord and zipper trims (top left) by Stirling Cooper, 18 gns; pale suede and leather lace-up boots by Kurt Geiger, 35 gns; wool gloves at Selfridges, 8s 11d; leather belt by The Wild Mustang Manufacturing Co., approx. £3 12s 6d; fur shepherdess hat, bag and drinking flask from a selection at Kensington Antique Market
Velmar jacket and needlecord trousers (top right) by Stirling Cooper, £12 19s 6d, £5 10s; big polo-neck ribbed Shetland wool sweater at Aquascutum, £6 15s; corrugated leather lace-up boots at Russell and Bromley, £29 19s; knitted Aran mitts at Selfridges, 16s 11d; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s, furry bag from a selection at Kensington Antique Market.