Lingerie de Luxe

1970s, Aurore Clement, Inspirational Images, Liliane Dreyfus, lingerie, meriel mccooey, Meriel McCooey, Sacha, sunday times magazine, underwear, Vintage Editorials, Vog

Some of the sexiest women in films are buying underwear like this. It is wildly expensive (the items cost from about £16 to £90), but Liliane Dreyfus, who designed it for Vog, Paris, says that her customers don’t seem to mind the price; with pay-cheques like the ones that Brigitte Bardot, Ursula Andress, Juliette Greco and Jackie Bissett pick up, why should they? On these pages her silk, satin and lace concoctions are worn by Aurore Clement, one of the new stars of Louis Malles most recent — and some say finest — film, Lacombe Lucien. If you have the money and are still interested, they are available to order from Harrods.

Styling and words by Meriel McCooey.

Photographed by Sacha.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, March 31st 1974.

Sun and Silk

1970s, Inspirational Images, Sacha, Suliman, sunday times magazine, Vintage Editorials
Puffed-sleeved quilted jacket, £10.50; knee-length circular skirt with contrasting band, £9.50.

For those who fancy a smooth summer Suliman have made their entire collection in pure Chinese silk. It is a man-and-wife firm, Sam Suliman designing the fabrics – the abstract patterns are hand-painted – and June the clothes. Sam finds this silk perfect for his luminous, sultry colours, which he uses in 15 variations. Everything is hand-washable and available in sizes 8-12 direct and by mail order from Suliman, 48 Maddox Street, London WI , and from Emma Somerset, 5 Police Street, Manchester.

Styled by Valerie Wade

Photographed by Sacha.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, 28th May 1972.

Plain quilted jacket with hand-painted oval yoke, £17.50.
Identically shaped gypsy shirts, £12.50 each, worn with short quilted waistcoats, £9.50 each.
Flimsy blouse with an elasticated waistband, £10.50, made of one of a variety of hand-painted fabrics also used for gypsy blouses, long skirts, dresses, baggy pants and quilted jackets. Worn with plain skirt, £9.50.

Mixed Spice

1970s, Browns, Chelsea Antiques Market, Emmerton and Lambert, Inspirational Images, Mohanjeet, Sacha, sunday times magazine, Valerie Wade, Vintage Editorials

There is nothing formal about these clothes even though a few years ago most people would have thought they were. They look exotic because the fabrics are either Eastern, or mixtures of Twenties silks and chiffons. Everything is quite simply cut and easy to wear; it is only the fabric combinations that are elaborate. There are many women who don’t like to admit, even to themselves, that clothes are of any importance in their lives — just because they are not striding around in shorts doesn’t mean that they lack style, they just don’t want to be instantly pigeon-holed by what they wear. The clothes shown here are perfect for all those women who “don’t care about fashion”.

Report by Valerie Wade.

Photographed by Sasha.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, April 4th 1971.

New dress from old fabrics; the bloomers are Thirties patchwork silks, the bodice is Indian and the sleeves Persian. Obviously no two are identical. From Emmerton and Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market, 253 Kings Road, SW3, £25.
Indian quilted chiffon skirt and bolero (£32) over gold painted chiffon blouse (also on cover), £10. All by Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, W1.
Skirt and blouse made from Twenties and Thirties silk chiffons. Skirt £15, blouse £10. From Emmerton and Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market, 253 Kings Road, SW3.
Reversible Indian wrap-around skirt and jacket in soft quilted lawn, £45. By Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, London, W1.
Multi-patterned dress in thick Indian cotton, £28. By Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, W1

Fashion Goes Into Purdah

1970s, cherry twiss, Crocodile, deborah and clare, Inspirational Images, jean muir, kurt geiger, Sacha, Savita, Suliman, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, thea porter, universal witness, Vintage Editorials
Savita’s orange and red printed muslin hot skirt and balloon sleeved midi top. The latticed rust suede hat and scarf are from Suliman.

After the systemic strip of the West’s liberated women comes a longing for the romance and mystery of the East. The newest clothes reflect this mood with suggestive gauzes and clinging crepes. We took some to Bahrain, where the women are still heavily veiled and pass secluded lives in the harem.

A textbook example of the trend towards ‘exotic’ inspiration in the fashion world of the late Sixties/early Seventies. Most famously by Thea Porter, of course, but also with lesser known labels such as Suliman and Savita. Another strand of the post-Sixties backlash against the minimal and the space-age, along with the period romanticism of Laura Ashley and the more kitschy retro Rock’n’Roll stylings of Glam Rock.

As an aside, I always feel a little uncomfortable posting these ‘location’ shoots when they involve local characters, because it can feel a little exploitative. But at the same time, I don’t want to censor the past and think it’s important to remind ourselves of how fashion needs to be less exploitative and culturally ‘acquisitional’, even now.

I was also very entertained to note that a variation on the first image was used as part of the hilarious series of Smirnoff adverts and that I scanned back in 2015. There are only a few months between the two and I’m fascinated to know whose decision that was!

Fashion by Cherry Twiss.

Photographed by Sacha.

Scanned from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, 2nd July 1971.

White banlon dress by Simon Massey.
Flawless blue silk crepe jersey dress by Jean Muir. Gold sandals by Kurt Geiger.
Butter muslin shirt from Deborah and Clare. Striped satin skirt from The Universal Witness. The harem pants were made in the local souk.
Lace skirt and jacket by Thea Porter. Sequin cap from Crocodile.
Black crepe bloomer dress by Jean Muir.
Bronze slipper satin dress by Thea Porter.

All Things Bright and Beautiful

1970s, Bata, Brian Downes, Honey Magazine, platforms, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, Sacha, shoes

all things bright and beautiful small

L-R Vampy wedge heeled shoes by Sacha, Skinny lemon boots by Russell & Bromley, Co-respondent leather running shoes by Sacha, Stripy suede boots with crepe soles by Sacha, Double stripe soft leather boots by Sacha, Tough crepe soled lace-ups by Bata, Skinny leather platform soled boots by Sacha. Cork soled suede lace ups by Sacha.

Photographed by Brian Downes.

Scanned from Honey magazine, November 1971.

Where have all the flowers gone?

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bermona, biba, crowthers, florrie carr, Herbert Johnson, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, Richard Selby, Sacha, Sacha, Vintage Editorials

where have all the flowers gone 1

Blooming red peonies on a navy rayon georgette dress, Florrie Carr. Flower trimmed straw hat, Crowthers. Shoes, Sacha. Rose print crêpe de chine dress, Crowthers. Straw hat, Bermona. Shoes, Sacha.

…To the seaside, where they’re blossoming out all over flimsy crêpe de chine summer dresses. So, if like most of us, you’re searching the shops for cool holiday clothes, now is the time to take your pick from our bunch.

Photographed by Richard Selby.

Scanned from Honey, August 1971

where have all the flowers gone 3

Fruit and flower crêpe de chine dress, Crowthers. Orange suede cork soled shoes, Sacha. Pastel tulip printed crêpe de chine skirt and matching blouse, Crowthers. Criss cross suede shoes, Crowthers. Plastic and raffia choker, Adrien Mann.

where have all the flowers gone 2

Swirling sunflower print dress in cinnamon and cream, Biba. White raffia sunhat, Herbert Johnson. Blue and white daisy patterned crêpe de chine dress, Ossie Clark for Radley. Burgundy straw hat, Biba.

Keep it Dark

1970s, Alan Rodin, anello and davide, Buckle Under, Dranella, Elliott, Ginger Group, liberty, Marielle, mary quant, Miss T, Mrs Cresswell, petticoat magazine, ravel, Sacha, Sacha, Steve Hiett, Sujon, Uncategorized, wallis

keep it dark 1

Flower print skirt and top by Sujon. Crochet shawl by Mrs Cresswell. Shoes by Sacha.

Dusky dark dresses for the days when you’d rather take things cooler, in feminine earthy patterns galore, with more than their fair share of low key price tags…

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, February 1971.

keep it dark 3

Both outfits by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group. Inset below right, both dresses by Dranella.

keep it dark 4

Midi dress by Marielle. Rosie Nice satin shawl.

keep it dark 2

Liberty print tiered dress by Miss T. Shawl by Mrs Cresswell. Cream boots by Ravel.

keep it dark 5

Multiprint dress, left, by Alan Rodin. Belt from Elliott. Sacha boots. Button front Liberty print dress, right, by Miss T. Suede beaded shawl by Elliott. Choker by Buckle Under.

keep it dark 6

Long Liberty print dress by Wallis. Bag and choker by Elliotts. Shoes by Anello & Davide.

Christmas Colours

19 magazine, 1960s, anello and davide, biba, Feathers, gladrags, gordon king, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, liberty, mr freedom, ossie clark, Pourelle, quorum, ritva, Sacha, Sacha, simon massey, Stephen Bobroff, Sujon, Tommy Roberts, Tony Berkeley, Tony Berkley, Vintage Editorials, wallis

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 1

Calf length New York skyline-printed crepe dress with deep neckline, narrow fitting sleeves and wide sash tied at the back. The same dress with wide bell shaped over sleeves. Both from Mr Freedom. Rings from Biba.

The look for Christmas is definitely one of bright colours and generally good cheer. Fabrics are crepes, satins and velvets in stained glass hues of rich reds, blues, greens, yellows and purples…

Photographed by Stephen Bobroff.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, December 1969.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 7

Long crepe kaftan style dress by Mr Freedom. Red chiffon scarf by Fenwicks. Yellow and black crepe trouser suit by Mr Freedom. Red leather boots from Sacha. Black crochet cap by Ritva at Feathers.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 2

Ankle length satin dress over printed in mauve with floppy bell shaped sleeves and long matching scarf by Pourelle. Purple crepe calf length dress with narrow fitting sleeves, lace up neckline and wide cape style collar by Ossie Clark for Quorum. Boots by Sacha.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 3

Purple narrow fitting t-shirt. Ankle length crushed velvet skirt in pink with purple velvet waistband. Both by Mr Freedom. Purple leather boots by Anello & Davide. Cardigan style dress in dark blue velvet splashed with yellow and red by Gordon King. Bright red crepe ankle length skirt by Ossie Clark for Quorum.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 4

Pale pink acetate jersey ankle length skirt and v-shaped bra top with narrow straps crossing over at back by Wallis. Black crochet cap by Ritva at Feathers. Pale green crepe ankle length skirt with matching front lacing bra top by Tony Berkeley.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 5

Long tapestry coat by Janice Wainwright at Simon Massey. Bright green narrow t-shirt by Mr Freedom. Pale pink damask narrow-fitting long coat by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey. Silk scarves from Biba.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 6

Ankle length zip fronted cafe crepe dress has softly gathered deep yoke by Tony Berkeley. Red, blue and yellow scarf by Sujon. Ankle length soft pink crepe dress by Tony Berkeley. Long printed Indian scarf from Feathers.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 8

Bolero top and mid-calf skirt by Simon Jeffrey. Ankle length dress in pure Liberty wool and matching bolero by Gladrags. Red mid calf boots by Anello and Davide.

Take a long look

1960s, bus stop, david hurn, Elgee, Inspirational Images, John Craig, kleptomania, lee bender, ossie clark, petticoat magazine, quorum, ravel, Sacha, Sacha, stop the shop, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, wallis

take a long look 3

Long blue coat, £25 4s. by Ossie Clark at Quorum, S.W.3. Scarf by Liberty, £3 19s. 6d. White boots by Sacha, £7 7s. Flowery print dress, £10 10s,, by Kleptomania, S.W.3. Blue boots by Sacha, £7 7s. Corocraft beads, £1 12s. 6d.

How far are you dropping your hem this season? Variations on the theme fall from just below the knee to maxi. Coolest long-liners come soft on jersey, hot on tweed, close and clingy in crepe and warm in wool and fur…

Photographed by David Hurn.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, October 1969.

take a long look 1

Blue button-front long dress, £8 Ss. from main Wallis Shops. Beige long-sleeved shirt, £3 13s. 6d., turquoise coat, £13 13s., long black skirt, £5 Ss. all from Bus Stop, W.8. Worry beads, £15s. from The Greek Shop.

take a long look 2

Maroon herring-bone coat, £18 10s., with matching trousers, £5 by Elgee from Miss Selfridge. Ravel red patent brogues, £6 6s, Lilac velveteen shirt by John Craig, £3 12s. from Stop the Shop, S.W.3. Brown and white tweed coat, £16 10s. C & A. Paisley scarf by Richard Allan, £3 3s. Grey herringbone coat, £13 2s. 6d., matching trousers, £414s. 6d., from Bus Stop, W.B. and the new shop in Birmingham. Boots by Sacha, £7 7s. Fringed scarf by Sujon, £3 13s. 6d.

Pretty Things

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, Arthur Elgort, Bombacha, C&A, carr jones, Crochetta, eddie yap, edward mann, Essences, garilee, Howie, Inspirational Images, jenny hare, johnson and johnson, Jon Elliot, lloyd johnson, Marida, marie france, mushroom, nostalgia, outlander, Sacha, Sacha, strawberry studio, tuttabankem, Vintage Editorials

Pretty Things 3

Left: Green felt hat from Bombacha. Grey crepe top and matching skirt both by Strawberry Studio. Gloves by Tuttabankem. Silk scarf by Eddie Yap for Howie. Right: Navy blue hat by Charles Batten. Green crepe top and matching skirt by Strawberry Studio. Gloves by Tuttabankem. Scarf from Essences. Brooch from Bombacha.

Skirts are big news! They come in soft, pretty fabrics like crepe and flanesta. Looks are soft and sweet too. So go feminine. Wear skirts that are full, and keep warm with chunky sweaters and long, knitted scarves.

Photographed by Arthur Elgort.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, October 1974.

Pretty Things 5

Left: Rust felt hat by Marida. Rust crepe de chine suit by Marie France. Mixed tweedy cardigan by Outlander. Brown leather shoes by Bombacha. Scarf by Eddie Yap for Howie. Bag from Nostalgia. Right: Hat by Edward Mann. Cream blouse and grey crepe de chine suit all by Marie France. Huge grey cardigan by Crochetta. Grey lace up shoes from Sacha. Silky scarf by Eddie Yap for Howie. Brooch from Bombacha.

Pretty Things 1

Left: Hat by Edward Mann. Blouse by Garilee. Wool cardigan by Johnson & Johnson. Skirt from C&A. Shoes from Sacha. Right: Hat from Bombacha. Green blouse by Garilee. Wool v-neck top by Outlander. Cardigan by Johnson & Johnson. Skirt from C&A. Shoes by Sacha. Beads from Bombacha. Brooch by Adrien Mann.

Pretty Things 2

Left: Red and white striped wool tank top and matching cardigan by Outlander. Cream crepe skirt by Mushroom. Right: Flannel beret at Essences. Cream crepe blouse by Jon Elliot. Cream tank top and matching cardigan by C&A. Pale pink crepe skirt by Marie France.

Pretty Things 4

Left: Blue felt hat by Charles Batten. White silk shirt by Carr Jones. Blue cord pinafore dress by Strawberry Studio. Leather shoes from Bombacha. Silk scarf from Essences. Right: Hat from Nostalgia. White Chinese shirt by Carr Jones. Blue tweed hacking jacket by Jenny Hare at Bombacha. Skirt by Inega. Shoes from Bombacha. Bag from Essences. Scarf by Eddie Yap for Howie.