A long, long time ago…

1970s, celia birtwell, Illustrations, Ms Peelpants' rants, ossie clark, peter robinson, topshop, Vogue

…Topshop didn’t exist. I know it’s hard to believe, but it’s true. It sprang from the loins of the Peter Robinson department store, which was originally located near the present Oxford Circus flagship site. Like a greedy devil child, it surpassed and devoured its progenitor.

This rant is brought to you by this gorgeous illustration from Vogue, April 1970. If only I could saunter up to Oxford Circus, enter an old-fashioned department store and buy myself such a delicious Ossie Clark dress today, I’d be a happy lady.

Pat Booth

british boutique movement, countdown, james wedge, pat booth, seventies fashion, top gear, Vogue

Somehow I missed that Pat Booth passed away in 2009. Alongside her then boyfriend James Wedge, Booth helped “create” the Chelsea fashion scene in the Sixties and Seventies with the boutiques Top Gear and Countdown. She had started out as a model, before and during the boutiques’ lifespans, and would become both a photographer and a novelist in later years. She was married twice; first to psychiatrist Garth Wood and second to advertising guru Sir Frank Lowe, a short year before her death from cancer. Pattie Boyd and Cliff Richard were the only attendees.

The reason I was looking her up was because I found and scanned this lovely shot of her from Vogue Boutique, February 1971. I’m still posting it, but I feel a bit sad to know that another key figure from the period has gone.

“Pat Booth strides out, left, in front of the recharged Countdown, 137 King’s Road, wearing the striped shorts she has made for the shop. All colours, 5½ gns, sweater the same, cape about 25 gns.”

Helen Mirren in Vogue, 1976

1970s, helen mirren, snowdon, Vogue

Helen Mirren has been playing since October in Lindsay Anderson’s repertory experiment at the Lyric, as Nina in The Seagull, and as”a foolish girl out for a fast buck” in the highly successful Ben Travers’ farce, The Bed Before Yesterday. It is a hard life, and she doesn’t seem to weaken. With the adrenalin shots of at least one performance a day, she goes on to eat, to drink and to dance the night away; only retiring early when there is a good late-night movie on television. She did think a new regime was needed: “I’m about to go out and buy a book on yoga”. Now she might do ten minutes of the Canadian PTX exercises, and eat a lot or nothing at all. Her clothes are pretty, secondhand market pieces mixed with things from shops like Che Guevara. She uses Tarn Hows Otto scent which she buys by mail order from the Lake District. What she really enjoys is make-up.

“I wear masses during the day but tend to take it off for the stage, it can look overdone so easily. I mix my own foundation because no one product is perfect, and they do seem to vanish into my skin. One is the right colour, one the right consistency, and I go on mixing them with my lovely Borghese powder till it works. Make-up can be daunting, all the big names, so I buy most in Boots, use kohl and a particular Mary Quant violet eye tint.”

She is hardly a new name; twelve years ago as a schoolgirl she received dazzling notices in the National Youth Theatre. Born in London, 28 years ago, “the fastest birth on record at Queen Charlotte’s”, she grew up in Leigh-on-Sea. Her family, she says, could not be described as theatrical-“though my Auntie Olga was a showgirl, briefly, and my father is a musician; he used to play the viola but couldn’t raise a family on that.”

Films have been The Age of Consent, Savage Messiah, Oh! Lucky Man, and she has appeared as Miss Julie and in A Midsummer Night’s Dream on television. She would like to do more filming—if she can escape the stage—but if she belts out her Teeth ‘n’ Smiles’ role with as much bottle as she did at the Royal Court, the show could run well past October. “I’ve never stayed in one place for a whole season, but I suppose it will be good for the garden.” The garden grows behind the green and yellow painted house she shares with a friend in Fulham. Inside are signs of builders just passed through, paisley and faded Japanese silk cushions, busy lizzies, a Christmas present piano and Rosie, her black and white rabbit, who joins her here to be photographed by Lord Snowdon.

Helen making up at her dressing table wearing her own silk kimono and made-up wearing Krizia’s flowered pink crepe de chine. Helen and bicycle outside her Fulham house, left, wearing Krizia’s flowered pink silk crepe de chine pyjama suit, £219, at Buffy, Conduit St. With Rosie, the rabbit, right, among the cushions of her living-room sofa, wearing Albini’s smoked stained- glass print crepe de chine pantaloon suit with camisole top and buttoned ankles, £80.90; matching sandals. All by Albini for Trell, at Elle Italian Shops. Jewellery by Adrien Mann. Her hair by Leslie at Smile.

Photographs by Snowdon. Vogue, March 1976.

The Beautiful People

david bailey, grace coddington, marit allen, michael chow, penelope tree, Vogue

Occasionally I go and gorge myself stupid over at the magnificent Youthquakers site. They make no pretence of scanning perfection, which means they can bombard you with a tonne of amazing Vogue scans at any one time. I feel exhausted just looking at it. It also means that a complete Brit-fashion geek like me (with more magazines than I can cope with) can take a look at copies of US Vogue, which I can rarely justify getting hold of myself.

I spotted this brilliant piece in a February 1970 US Vogue. Mrs Chow was, of course, Grace Coddington and Mrs ‘Liberson’ was, in fact, Marit Allen. Fashion journalism legend and boutique collector extraordinaire. She was the wife of Sandy Lieberson (tsk! tsk!, US Vogue fact checkers…), who was a film producer and to whom I am extremely grateful for bringing That’ll Be The Day, Stardust and Rita, Sue and Bob Too! into my life.

Also, Penelope Tree. Yay!

Susannah York in Vogue’s Own Boutique

sixties, susannah york, Vogue

I had been holding this back for no apparent reason, other than that I already have piles of scanning which are probably, cumulatively, as high as the ceiling. Then comes the sad news that the beautiful Susannah York has passed away. It seems as good a time as any…

I wish someone would have the sense to release Duffy on DVD. I’m also desperate to see Joanna (also mentioned in the article above). Sometimes what has/hasn’t been released astounds and baffles me…

Vogue, January 1968

Inspirational Images: Alice Ormsby-Gore in Bill Gibb for Baccarat

1970s, Alice Ormsby-Gore, bill gibb, Inspirational Images, patchwork, tessa traeger, Vogue

In the great rainbow garden of patchworks, patchworks to wear and for eating and sitting on. The suit, a maxiskirt of caramel suede soft as chamois, a chamois suede jacket appliqued with patent and leather piece over piece, with leather thongs and Indian beads sewn together to decorate the sleeves.

The shape is mediaeval, trumpet sleeved and tiny bodiced there’s a matching kepi with five-foot leather streamers. Bill Gibb designed this; it’s made to order at Baccarat. Lady Anne Tree’s patchwork tablecloth is a giant circle of hexagons in a thousand and one rose, red and pink prints—bandanas, polka dots, checks and cherries—made in traditional manner with paper cut to the hexagons, stitched, then the basting removed to release the paper. Lined and edged with a heavy woollen fringe. The multitudes of patchwork crochet cushions are in multitudes of sun and chrysanthemum colours, some knit or enormous needles. 3½ gns each, at Women’s Home Industries

Photo by Tessa Traeger.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, “Fashions in Living”, January 1970.

Hollywood Clothes Shop

ad hoc, british boutique movement, edina ronay, hollywood clothes shop, hollywood icons, johnny moke, kensington high street, seventies fashion, Vogue

There are a few boutiques, Alkasura and Che Guevara included, whose work is painfully abugly. Flat feet are not sexy and elegant.”

Hollywood Clothes Shop sounds like it was one of the best examples of those playfully indulgent Boutique interiors at the time, although its brevity of existence means that there’s not a lot of imagery to correlate with the descriptions of old cinema seats, and the mannequins, paintings and photographs of movie stars. So I was rather delighted to spot some delicious photos of Edina Ronay sporting some of the frocks in the boutique itself. Thank heavens for the ‘Vogue’s Own Boutique’ feature. From February 1971.

Here, Edina Ronay stars in clothes from the new Hollywood Clothes Shop, on Hollywood Road, where else? Zipped plaid jacket, below, 14 gns (£14.70). Stylish crepe and sparkling sequin cocktail suit of deep claret, 12 gns (£12.60), with turban of wrapped velvet and snakeskin, with authentic pin, 8gns (£8.40).

Saucy Seventies Smalls: Zandra Rhodes

underwear, Vogue, zandra rhodes

There’s just something about Seventies lingerie shoots which floats my boat. Something about the vaseline-smeared David Hamilton/Sarah Moon-ness (even when it’s neither of them), natural (and generally smaller-scaled) breasts and the lingerie itself is completely my favourite style. It’s got that Thirties edge, but with a saucy Seventies twist. I don’t have any Zandra underwear, I’m mainly kitted out by Charnos if you really must know, but this amazing shoot makes me want some right now!

Vogue, December 1977. Photos by Eric Boman

Vogue’s Christmas: Send in the Clowns

bill gibb, clowns, david bailey, Gina Fratini, john bates, marie helvin, seventies fashion, thea porter, Vogue, zandra rhodes

It’s oh so quiet…

…over here, isn’t it? I haven’t turned to ice, or been out enjoying the snow too much to blog. No, I’m back in the West End, with my latest one-woman show….. ahhh, just joking! I’m back at the ballet, dressing the newest version of The Nutcracker and the schedule is a bit punishing for all involved. So I’m grabbing moments when I can, to post out my wares and try to keep on top of things. But sadly, it means that I’m barely able to keep up with all you lovely bloggers and get half of the things done before Christmas that I needed and wanted to do. Argh! Anyway, to keep you going until I have time/energy to blog again, here is one of my all-time favourite Vogue shoots from December 1975. Beauty and grace personified…

Apologies to any coulrophobes out there!

By John Bates

By Gina Fratini

By Jorn Langberg

By Bill Gibb

By Thea Porter

By Zandra Rhodes

Main dress by Hanae Mori

By Nettie Vogues

Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe

Just to let you know, I can still post out before Christmas although I wouldn’t recommend relying too heavily on the postal service, given current weather issues and Christmas rush. But even if it doesn’t get there in time, remember, a vintage piece is not just for Christmas…

Mensday? Mednesday? Whatever. It’s Menswear Wednesday!

david bailey, Mensday, menswear, mr fish, rupert lycett green, sixties, Vogue

I’m thinking of turning Wednesdays into Menswear days; something tasty to cure the midweek blues. But I can’t decide if ‘Mensday’ is just too cheesy, even for me? Regardless, here is Mr [Michael] Fish wearing one of his own pieces, alongside one of Rupert Lycett Green’s flamboyant creations for Blades. Dribble….

Vogue, January 1968. Photos by Bailey.