Landscape in Leather

1960s, Adrian George, elton john, Gervase, Jim O'Connor, Julian Cottrell, Mensday, menswear, mr freedom, ossie clark, patrick procktor, Tommy Roberts, Vogue

Simply sky, cloud, tree and grass sewn on the back of a brief bright jacket, pilot shape, all leather, buttoned both sides, worn with high-waisted trousers, sky blue silk shirt.

The RCA’s School of Fashion is a great forcing ground for young designers. This year’s show proved the point again, with looks both space-age and romantic, the best in fashion for men… the man in the landscape is Gervase, pop singer with new release, “Pepper Grinder”. And the man responsible for the leather landscape, Jim O’Connor, made a gold lurex evening suit that could outshine Elvis Presley; a memorable droopy satin dressing gown and pyjamas silk-screened in rainbow colours with the words “there will never be another you”.

I would walk over hot coals for that jacket. Jim O’Connor would go on to design for Tommy Roberts’s Mr Freedom boutique and created the legendary winged boots (as worn by Elton John) amongst many other iconic designs.

There’s not a huge amount out there about Gervase Griffiths, what there is mainly relates to his time with Patrick Procktor and those creative circles (see here where there is also a connection to Ossie Clark), but here’s a link to the aforementioned Pepper Grinder which is all the baroque psychedelic whimsy you would expect from 1968.

Photographed by Julian Cottrell-Adrian George.

Scanned from Vogue, September 1968.

Guy Day: Colin Firth, 1984

1980s, Colin Firth, Demob, Dexter Wong, Hamish Bowles, Hyper Hyper, katharine hamnett, Mensday, menswear, Robert Erdman, The Face

Crushed white silk shirt Katharine Hamnett. Silk toga as flag Katharine Hamnett. Navy herringbone trousers at Demob. Ghillie shoes at Scotch House

A young Colin Firth in a white shirt? You’re welcome…

Styled by Hamish Bowles. Photographed by Robert Erdman.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Face, October 1984

Black wool coat by Body Map. Red cotton jersey shirt by Tim Hall at Demob. Black fur pile shapka by Dexter Wong at Post, Hyper Hyper. Badges from Covent Garden and Berwick Street Markets.

Guy Day: Bring your man up to date

1970s, british boutique movement, hard rock cafe, leonard, Marc Leonard, Mensday, menswear, missoni, mr freedom, sonia rykiel, stirling cooper, Tommy Roberts, vanity fair

“Look at him. God’s gift to women.

But before you start chucking him back, remember the average British male is all you’ve got to work on. So get working on him. Tell him you think his barber stinks. Say you’ll scream if he turns up in that seedy safari jacket, with those baggy drainpipes, and bunion-hugging shoes again. Meantime, wear this pale blue hooded coat £45, matching poloneck with red chevron front £21, and matching trousers £28. All by Sonia Rykiel at Browns.”

This is a quite-frankly-amazing little photo story from Vanity Fair, which sees our Cinderfella hero being taken from baggy drainpipes to novelty-print-shirted Hard Rock Cafe God, via the Kensington Church Street branch of Mr Freedom and Leonard of Mayfair.

Photographed by Marc Leonard. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1972

“Once he’s started growing his hair,

…swap the chat for action. Shove him into Mr. Freedom, 2- Kensington Church Street, W8. Strip off his drainpipes and fit him into a pair of red velvet jeans, £7.75. Rip off his jacket and zip him into a red-and-white satin top, £7.95. (It’s got FAR OUT splashed over the shoulders to make sure he gets the message). And while you’re there, buy yourself some pale blue satin trousers, £5.25, a furry acrylic leopard-skin blouse, £9.95, and a black pom-pom beret, £4.”

“This is when the sow’s ear really turns into a silk purse.

He’s at Leonard, 6 Upper Grosvenor Street, W1 (even if you had to frog march him there), being tactfully handled by Peter. Wash, cut and blow-dry costs £3.75, beard 5-p. extra – not much when you consider it’s made a mean-moody-magnificent out of that surly yobo of yours.”

“Doesn’t he look lovely?

Sitting in the Hard Rock Cafe in his grey wool barathea Stirling Cooper suit, £28.00 with a waistcoat, and his tiny-man-patterned shirt, £4.90. Both from Way-In, Hans Crescent, SW1. You’re in your Missoni four-piece (orangey battledress top, matching trousers, orange silky blouse and toning striped tank top). £75 from Browns. Thinking what a perfect couple you make. Except that now he’s thinking: ‘Blimey mate, you could do a lot better than her if you tried.'”

Inspirational Editorials: Mode a Venise

1970s, Inspirational Images, italy, Lui, Mensday, menswear, ossie clark, Venice, Vintage Editorials

Lui: Jacket by Harry Lans from Printemps Brummell. Shirt and tie by Francesco Smalto. Trousers by Brummell. Elle: Dress by Ossie Clark. Silver fox fur by Robert Beaulieu.

Lui: Jacket by Harry Lans. Shirt and tie by Francesco Smalto. Trousers by Brummell. Elle: Dress by Ossie Clark. Silver fox fur by Robert Beaulieu.

“Pour ceux que le triste smoking ennuie, << Lui >> propose une mode du soir facile à porter. Certains vont mourir à Venise, << Lui >> a décidé pour un soir d’y vivre en beauté.”

Un éditorial parfait, from Lui, January 1972. Photographer sadly uncredited.

Lui: Jacket, shirt, tie and trousers by Elysees Soieries. Patent black boots by Charles Jourdan. Elle: Panne velvet outfit (tunic, trousers and scarf) by Tan Giudicelli. White fox fur by Robert Beaulieu.

Lui: Sweater by Francesco Smalto. Shirt by Elysees Soieries. Satin neck tie by Elysees Soieries. Elle: Dress by Vesscheringe Brard. White fox fur by Robert Beaulieu.

Lui: Outfit by Renoma. Elle: Dress and midnight blue fox fur by Tan Giudicelli.

Mensday: Stay Snug

1970s, 3 AM, Badges and Equipment, biba, bus stop, C&A, Elgee, gauchos, gordon king, Inspirational Images, John Carter, John Craig, Mensday, menswear, Paradise Garage, petticoat magazine, ravel, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, take 6

Photographed by John Carter. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, November 1971.

From left to right: She wears a curly fake fur short jacket by Elgee. Suede bib gauchos by 3 AM. Boots from Sacha. Canvas hat from Paradise Garage. He wears a leather flying jacket from Badges and Equipment. McCaul’s pullover. Pants from Take 6. Ravel lace-ups.

She wears: Suede jacket with furry trim by Hidegrade. Waistcoat by Take Six. Plus fours by Gordon King. Crochet hat from Biba. Watch from Paradise Garage. Boots from Russell and Bromley. He wears a suede hooded coat from C&A. John Craig polo jumper. Check pants from Bus Stop. Lace-up boots from Ravel.

Guy Day: The New Cue Shop

1970s, Antonio, Cue, harpers and queen, Illustrations, Mensday, menswear, Vintage Adverts

Uncredited but it looks like an Antonio to me. Scanned from Harpers and Queen, November 1979.

Mensday: Brian of Brook Street

1960s, Illustrations, Mensday, menswear, Queen magazine, Vintage Adverts

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Queen, November 1969

Mensday: Donovan at Bodiam

1960s, bravo magazine, donovan, Mensday

Earlier in the summer, Mr Brownwindsor and I took a few little day trips around the time of my birthday. One was to Bodiam Castle, over on the other side of East Sussex from us. It was a true fairytale of a ruined castle and a lovely day out. So I was delighted to spot this picture of Donovan on the back cover of one of my odd Bravo magazines, in all his troubadour finery (and oh! how I want that cape…) in the picturesque lake which surrounds it. Sadly, we didn’t get the chance to ponce around in a boat on the lake. Lake poncing should definitely be introduced at Bodiam…

Scanned from Bravo, May 1968