Clothes for the Adventurers

1970s, bill gibb, clive arrowsmith, Jacob Schlaepfer, manolo blahnik, Piero de Monzi, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, zandra rhodes, zapata
Bill Gibb’s mixture of sequins, leather and silver chrysanthemums. Sequin hood and cowl, dolman blouse glistening under leather waistcoat, leather skirt flared from basque, printed with chrysanthemums. £54, £30, £86 at Lucienne Phillips. Sequined fabric by Jacob Schlaepfer.

The wilder shores of fashion

I was mainly scanning this spread because I’ve just listed a Zandra Rhodes dress which I think must be from the same collection over on Etsy, but thought I might as well put them here too – especially because of that iconic Bill Gibb photo (used for the cover of Iain R. Webb’s definitive book about Gibb, seemingly fetching a pretty penny on Amazon these days). These top-stitched jerseys were a signature look for her in this period and mine also has the Piero de Monzi label. Marc Bolan had a top version in various colours and levels of frilly extravagance.

(If you’re interested in the Zandra Rhodes dress, click here to view it on Etsy.)

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, September 15th 1972.

Zandra Rhodes’s waterfall of unfinished jersey. Dolman sleeved, with lettuce edges and ruching stitched in turquoise, blue and scarlet. To order from Piero de Monzi. Cream leafy leather shoes by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
Zandra Rhodes’s firebird chiffon decorated with satin lilies, frilled seams, the skirt many yards of lightest jersey gathered up here and there. At Piero de Monzi. Jersey by Racine. Bill Gibb’s curves of ivory jersey, gathered and split skirt and dolman blouse pinned with flowers, ribbons and ostrich feathers. £76 at Liberty. Sandals, £14.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata

And now for the amazing… Kansai Yamamoto

1970s, Boston-151, clive arrowsmith, Inspirational Images, Kansai Yamamoto, marie helvin, Sachiko Shibayama, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

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On our left, this page, the satin Samurai appliquéd on a satin polyester T-shirt, £18; with sashiko—pure black cotton,–hip shorts. Black raggedy jacket of peacock feathers, with feather chaps buckled to the legs. Black patent boots on red satin platform soles,£28.
Centre, copper satin coat covered with navy and white cotton discs filled with butterflies, zipped up side, round the armhole to the collar and down the other side. Right, sashiko with a plaid of coloured lines, a violent satin hara kiri committed on the back (switched round here), £75. Black patent boots with turquoise satin platforms, £28. Wooden comb in the hair.

… and his marvellous painted circus of clothes. Twenty-seven years old, from Tokyo, he sells these unique clothes at Boston-1.51 where they hang like brilliant puppets, all the tradition of the Japanese theatre behind them. All clothes at Boston-1 51. Kansai Yamamoto oversees them in traditional kabuki stage manager’s kimono. Make-up, by Sachiko Shibayama, who has studied kabuki make-up for eight years.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

kansai july 71 b

Above left, scarlet, black and white kimono blouse, wide skirt with dragon teeth hem, big curved belt that says “fireman!” about £95. Black patent boots on scarlet satin, £28. Centre, “Fireman’s boss” sashiko vest with scarlet words, about £30. Sashiko tied leggings. Right, spiral zipped coat flared through six orders of plaid, all crossed again with quilting, in brown, rust, blue, dark red, lined with black cotton, £30.

Eyes of the Water

1970s, Ann Schaufuss, clive arrowsmith, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, pablo and delia, Revlon, Uncategorized, Vogue

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Guy Nicolet, Revlon’s international director: he finds inspiration in a film or a record, a girl he sees in the street or at the theatre, translates the mood into colour and from then on thinks about the bone structure, “the most important feature of a woman’s face”. He has a great sense of fashion, lives a very fashionable life between his gothic Roman house and bishop’s palace in the country, and for him “fashion changes at the same moment for the designer and the visagiste”. His favourite colour is blue, a thousand different blues. Here, opposite, eyes of the water blue reflected from the ceilings of his house on Lake Bracciano. The pastel skin, Perfect Beige Perfect Make-Up dusted with Perfect Powder, from the Ultima II Collection. Eyes shaped with Plum Rose and Orchidaceous Eye Couture ’70 Make-Up, with Sable Plum Lash Make-Up Automatique. New Orange Jade lipstick from the Private Label Collection. Painted leather and bead chokers, by Pablo & Delia at The Shop, Vidal Sassoon, Sloane St. Hair by Oliver at Leonard.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Beauty in Vogue, 1970/71

Pretty Basics

1970s, clive arrowsmith, frederick fox, harpers and queen, Harrods, Inspirational Images, Ken Lane, oliver goldsmith, salvador

pretty-basics

Ladylike white silk shirtdress by Salvador. Coffee coloured goatskin bag from Harrods. Pure silk lace jersey scarfed turban by Frederick Fox. White sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith. Ivory heart and ivory and gold cross on chains by Ken Lane.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, February 1975.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Summer in the Age of Aquarius

1970s, clive arrowsmith, Hilary Floyd, Inspirational Images, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, zandra rhodes

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Handpainted landscape on silk light as air. By Hilary Floyd, painted by Ross Ball.

Back to the beginning, back to the elements: these dresses are air and water in both of those blues, mingling handwork and waves of sheer silk in dresses of destiny.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, July 1970.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Waves of Aquarian blue in tremulous layers. By Zandra Rhodes.

Inspirational Editorials: Greta Scacchi in Midnight Blue

1970s, british boutique movement, clive arrowsmith, graff, Greta Scacchi, Inspirational Images, leonard, midnight blue, ritz magazine, Saxone

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Further adventures in Midnight Blue…

You may, or may not, remember my earlier posts about Peter Burden’s Midnight Blue shop of 186 Fulham Road. Here is a superb shoot by Clive Arrowsmith of a young Greta Scacchi wearing Midnight Blue clothes from 1978. Looking at Peter’s email again, I can’t help but wonder if the ‘Carol Lee’ he mentions might be the same Carole Lee who designed this exquisite silk top (still available to buy) at Vintage-a-Peel?

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Assisted by Bo.

Model Greta at Models One.

Styled by Catkin & David.

Hair by Leonard.

Shoes by Saxone. All jewellery available from Graff.

All clothes available from Midnight Blue.

Cameraman, Camera and Microphone by courtesy of Thames Television.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Ritz, Issue 18 1978

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Inspirational Images: Cool-Cut Hot Raspberry

1960s, british boutique movement, clive arrowsmith, georgina linhart, Inspirational Images, just looking, Vogue

Cleverly-cut bra top, just tied in a knot in burning hot pink, with loose low trousers of the ame. By Georgina Linhart, 91/2 gns, at Just Looking.

Cleverly-cut bra top, just tied in a knot in burning hot pink, with loose low trousers of the ame. By Georgina Linhart, 9½ gns, at Just Looking.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1969

Starlet Nights

antony price, british boutique movement, clive arrowsmith, Hamish Bowles, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, maudie james, Monty Don, murray arbeid, sheridan barnett, Stephen Jones, Vintage Editorials

Upstaging madly in a flurry of feathers, flounces and faux jewels, our chorus line throws caution to  the wings and takes centre stage for a thousand and one glamour-puss nights, directed by Hamish Bowles, 19.

Left to right: Black taffeta dress by Murray Arbeid. Black velvet and rose fascinator by Stephen Jones. Black wool crepe sheath dress with feathers by Sheridan Barnett. Black marabou and ostrich feathered opera coat by Sheridan Barnett, from Roxy 25 Kensington Church Street. Mauve taffeta and velvet stripe dress by Murray Arbeid. Rose hat by Stephen Jones. Crystal drop earrings by Monty Don. Black sun-ray pleated lame and chiffon evening dress by Antony Price, to order from Ebony. Earrings by Andrew Logan.

Upstaging madly in a flurry of feathers, flounces and faux jewels, our chorus line throws caution to the wings and takes centre stage for a thousand and one glamour-puss nights, directed by Hamish Bowles, 19.

A fascinating little spread here, directed by a 19-year-old Hamish Bowles and featuring pieces by established designers like Sheridan Barnett, Murray Arbeid and the Antony Price I’d give my first born to own… Plus up and coming designers like Stephen Jones and Monty Don (yes, that Monty Don…). Plus the make-up was by iconic Sixties model, Maudie James. I’m not such a huge fan of Harpers and Queen in this period, but this spread is such a perfect combination of what had been and what was to come – which makes it a definite cut above the rest.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, August 1983

Inspirational Images: Full Fling

1970s, 1980s, clive arrowsmith, Emanuel, harpers and queen, zandra rhodes

Black silk taffeta dress with gold sequins hand embroidered with a matching gathered overskirt open at the front (The dress can be worn alone, the overskirt as a cape) £1150 from Emanuel

Black silk taffeta dress, hand embroidered with gold sequins with a matching gathered overskirt open at the front (The dress can be worn alone, the overskirt as a cape), £1,150 from Emanuel.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, September 1980.

Black silk organza hand printed with black design with matching full wrap around skirt over a grey crinline petticoat to order from Zandra Rhodes

Black silk organza hand printed with black design with matching full wrap around skirt over a grey crinoline petticoat, to order from Zandra Rhodes

Inspirational Images: Fringes and feathers

1960s, british boutique movement, clive arrowsmith, fulham road clothes shop, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, simon massey, Vogue

Fringed jumpsuit by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey, 9½ gns. Silk scarf with fringes from Fulham Road Clothes Shop, £3.

Fringed jumpsuit by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey, 9½ gns. Silk scarf with fringes from Fulham Road Clothes Shop, £3.

I must have flicked past this image so many times in the past, but the most recent time I stopped and stared because – somewhere in between then and now – I have acquired this jumpsuit in black. I’m still waiting to give it an outing, but I will be sure to show you when I do. Although I can’t promise the befeathered head, or companion…

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, March 1969