How You Dress is an Escape

1970s, anne schaufuss, baccarat, belinda bellville, bill gibb, charles jourdan, chelsea cobbler, Chloe, christian dior, clive arrowsmith, Hair and make-up, jean shrimpton, Jorn Langberg, karl lagerfeld, kurt geiger, leonard, Moya Bowler, Nettie Vogues, pablo and delia, Savita, The Purple Shop, thea porter, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, zandra rhodes
DEPTHS OF EVENING CHIFFON,
CAFTAN AND DIRNDL DRESS
MERGED WITH GOLD AND VELVET
Above: Tobacco chiffon caftan with smoked gold leaves, hooded, boot-buttoned, Arabic sleeves weighted with tassels. Gathered from the waist with a twisted gold rope belt. Choker, The Purple Shop, 15 Flood St, S.W.3. Soft gold boots with open lacing, 22 gns, Kurt Geiger. Right: Black organza with a bib and skirt of brilliant panne velvet, red, green and yellow printed in ribbon bands, with bangles and cuffs of the velvet. Rings, Andrew Grima. Beaded black velvet choker, The Purple Shop. Black satin ankleboots, with bright passementerie, by Moya Bowler for Edouard Jerrold. Dresses, both pages, to order at Bellville Sassoon.

How you dress is an escape and an adventure in itself… never more so than the evening.

Hair by Leonard

Models are Anne Schaufuss and Jean Shrimpton.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1970.

SHEER BLACK OF NIGHT,
WISPS PUT TOGETHER WITH
JEWELS, VELVET AND GLEAMS
Black chiffon blouse and skirt tiled with cut velvet mosaic. Blouse of velvet harlequins, bibbed with jet beads set in little studs of gilt; the skirt, striped with studded circles and squares. £184, at Thea Porter. Feather fan, to hire at The Purple Shop. Satin shoes, dyed to order, £18, dyeing, 21s, Charles Jourdan.
Black chiffon dress with a glittering apron tied around the skirt — turquoise and rusty velvet shapes shot with silver, with a striped hem, and cuffs to match. By Chloe, to order from Fortnum & Mason. Mirror necklace, £70, and gold sash clasped with turquoises, 140, both from Thea Porter. Rings, David Morris. Black velvet laced boots, 19 gns, from Kurt Geiger
KNICKERBOCKER BALLET ALL SURFACES RIPPLED WITH COLOUR AND SHINE
Grass green silk satin glossed with an intricate paisley of red, ink, black, tremendous sleeves and tunic gathered from a yoke over ballooning knee pantaloons. 85 gns; choker 25 gns, and belt, 58 gns, all at Savita. Green moire boots, 18 gns, at The Chelsea Cobbler.
Water markings, waves of colour pooled in a chiffon blouse honeycombed at the shoulders, antique tunic and panne velvet knickers. The tunic has a fitted bodice, full sweeping skirt. Blouse, £59, tunic, £75, knickers £24, heavy silver belt, £100, all Thea Porter. Burgundy velvet boots laced to knee, 19 gns, Kurt Geiger. Rings, Blooms. Chokers, The Purple Shop, 15 Flood St, S.W.3. Make up by Lancome, with Climat scent.
A NEW SLEEVE
CUT ACROSS NARROW FALLS
OF GOLD LACE
AND CLOUDY CHIFFON
Spun gold laced with mauve, the bodice cut wide into the sleeves. sashed with deep purple velvet above a basque and a gathered skirt. By Jorn Langberg from Christian Dior London. Amethyst string and brooch, at Blooms: rings. Hooper Bolton. Satin shoes dyed mauve. £18. 21s for dyeing at Charles Jourdan. Amethyst tights. Mary Quant. Make-up by Dior. with new Dioressence scent.
The bodice sleeve in chiffon, clouds of mauve blowing across. The top crossed low over the bosom and simply gathered at wrists. slight gathers in the skirt catchir the air. By Nettie Vogues, at Harrods: Hilda Hanson. Nottingham. Velvet choker. The Purple Shop at Antiquarius. Amethyst and diamond rings. Blooms; emerald and diamond ring. David Morris. Make-up by Orlane, with Jean d’Albret Casaque scent.
GLORIOUS NIGHT SHAPES.
TAPESTRY BELLS
AND SATIN PAGODA
Misty blue tapestry and gold leaves. left. edged with wide ribbons of sprigged tapestry. A gold thread laces the deep neck of a small jacket belling from the Yoke, with short arabesque sleeves. Fade-print chemise underneath, with full sleeves and crossed braid ; a slim bell for a skirt. By Bill Gibb for Baccarat, at Fortnum & Mason. Pearly black velvet choker, The Purple Shop at Antiquarius. Tangerine braid decorations, from Savita. Rings, Andrew Grima. Honey-gold and gilt velvet slippers, 20 gns, to order, The Chelsea Cobbler. Make-up by Eve of Roma, with the new Eve scent.
Sunset burst of satin, right, a pagoda of quilted tiers, wide sleeves set up to a bib bodice. Feather-print of celestial blue and of black for sun-rays. By Zandra Rhodes, at Fortnum & Mason. Diamond and blue enamel rings, at Blooms. Neck lace stringing pale beads and colourless feathers, by Pablo & Delia. Make-up by Mary Quant with P.M. scent.

Flower Face

1970s, bianchini, clive arrowsmith, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, pierre cardin, Vogue

Flower face, eyebrows powdered out and eyes shadowed deeper, brighter; the heart of Cardin’s morning glory dress of Bianchini organza finely pleated into a double ruff to frame the head. Make-up by Gil of Geminesse.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1970.

Clothes for the Adventurers

1970s, bill gibb, clive arrowsmith, Jacob Schlaepfer, manolo blahnik, Piero de Monzi, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, zandra rhodes, zapata
Bill Gibb’s mixture of sequins, leather and silver chrysanthemums. Sequin hood and cowl, dolman blouse glistening under leather waistcoat, leather skirt flared from basque, printed with chrysanthemums. £54, £30, £86 at Lucienne Phillips. Sequined fabric by Jacob Schlaepfer.

The wilder shores of fashion

I was mainly scanning this spread because I’ve just listed a Zandra Rhodes dress which I think must be from the same collection over on Etsy, but thought I might as well put them here too – especially because of that iconic Bill Gibb photo (used for the cover of Iain R. Webb’s definitive book about Gibb, seemingly fetching a pretty penny on Amazon these days). These top-stitched jerseys were a signature look for her in this period and mine also has the Piero de Monzi label. Marc Bolan had a top version in various colours and levels of frilly extravagance.

(If you’re interested in the Zandra Rhodes dress, click here to view it on Etsy.)

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, September 15th 1972.

Zandra Rhodes’s waterfall of unfinished jersey. Dolman sleeved, with lettuce edges and ruching stitched in turquoise, blue and scarlet. To order from Piero de Monzi. Cream leafy leather shoes by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
Zandra Rhodes’s firebird chiffon decorated with satin lilies, frilled seams, the skirt many yards of lightest jersey gathered up here and there. At Piero de Monzi. Jersey by Racine. Bill Gibb’s curves of ivory jersey, gathered and split skirt and dolman blouse pinned with flowers, ribbons and ostrich feathers. £76 at Liberty. Sandals, £14.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata

And now for the amazing… Kansai Yamamoto

1970s, Boston-151, clive arrowsmith, Inspirational Images, Kansai Yamamoto, marie helvin, Sachiko Shibayama, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

kansai july 71 a

On our left, this page, the satin Samurai appliquéd on a satin polyester T-shirt, £18; with sashiko—pure black cotton,–hip shorts. Black raggedy jacket of peacock feathers, with feather chaps buckled to the legs. Black patent boots on red satin platform soles,£28.
Centre, copper satin coat covered with navy and white cotton discs filled with butterflies, zipped up side, round the armhole to the collar and down the other side. Right, sashiko with a plaid of coloured lines, a violent satin hara kiri committed on the back (switched round here), £75. Black patent boots with turquoise satin platforms, £28. Wooden comb in the hair.

… and his marvellous painted circus of clothes. Twenty-seven years old, from Tokyo, he sells these unique clothes at Boston-1.51 where they hang like brilliant puppets, all the tradition of the Japanese theatre behind them. All clothes at Boston-1 51. Kansai Yamamoto oversees them in traditional kabuki stage manager’s kimono. Make-up, by Sachiko Shibayama, who has studied kabuki make-up for eight years.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

kansai july 71 b

Above left, scarlet, black and white kimono blouse, wide skirt with dragon teeth hem, big curved belt that says “fireman!” about £95. Black patent boots on scarlet satin, £28. Centre, “Fireman’s boss” sashiko vest with scarlet words, about £30. Sashiko tied leggings. Right, spiral zipped coat flared through six orders of plaid, all crossed again with quilting, in brown, rust, blue, dark red, lined with black cotton, £30.

Eyes of the Water

1970s, Ann Schaufuss, clive arrowsmith, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, pablo and delia, Revlon, Uncategorized, Vogue

revlon-clive-arrowsmith-beauty-in-vogue-70-71-large

Guy Nicolet, Revlon’s international director: he finds inspiration in a film or a record, a girl he sees in the street or at the theatre, translates the mood into colour and from then on thinks about the bone structure, “the most important feature of a woman’s face”. He has a great sense of fashion, lives a very fashionable life between his gothic Roman house and bishop’s palace in the country, and for him “fashion changes at the same moment for the designer and the visagiste”. His favourite colour is blue, a thousand different blues. Here, opposite, eyes of the water blue reflected from the ceilings of his house on Lake Bracciano. The pastel skin, Perfect Beige Perfect Make-Up dusted with Perfect Powder, from the Ultima II Collection. Eyes shaped with Plum Rose and Orchidaceous Eye Couture ’70 Make-Up, with Sable Plum Lash Make-Up Automatique. New Orange Jade lipstick from the Private Label Collection. Painted leather and bead chokers, by Pablo & Delia at The Shop, Vidal Sassoon, Sloane St. Hair by Oliver at Leonard.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Beauty in Vogue, 1970/71

Pretty Basics

1970s, clive arrowsmith, frederick fox, harpers and queen, Harrods, Inspirational Images, Ken Lane, oliver goldsmith, salvador

pretty-basics

Ladylike white silk shirtdress by Salvador. Coffee coloured goatskin bag from Harrods. Pure silk lace jersey scarfed turban by Frederick Fox. White sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith. Ivory heart and ivory and gold cross on chains by Ken Lane.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, February 1975.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Summer in the Age of Aquarius

1970s, clive arrowsmith, Hilary Floyd, Inspirational Images, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, zandra rhodes

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Handpainted landscape on silk light as air. By Hilary Floyd, painted by Ross Ball.

Back to the beginning, back to the elements: these dresses are air and water in both of those blues, mingling handwork and waves of sheer silk in dresses of destiny.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, July 1970.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Waves of Aquarian blue in tremulous layers. By Zandra Rhodes.

Inspirational Editorials: Greta Scacchi in Midnight Blue

1970s, british boutique movement, clive arrowsmith, graff, Greta Scacchi, Inspirational Images, leonard, midnight blue, ritz magazine, Saxone

midnight blue 1

Further adventures in Midnight Blue…

You may, or may not, remember my earlier posts about Peter Burden’s Midnight Blue shop of 186 Fulham Road. Here is a superb shoot by Clive Arrowsmith of a young Greta Scacchi wearing Midnight Blue clothes from 1978. Looking at Peter’s email again, I can’t help but wonder if the ‘Carol Lee’ he mentions might be the same Carole Lee who designed this exquisite silk top (still available to buy) at Vintage-a-Peel?

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Assisted by Bo.

Model Greta at Models One.

Styled by Catkin & David.

Hair by Leonard.

Shoes by Saxone. All jewellery available from Graff.

All clothes available from Midnight Blue.

Cameraman, Camera and Microphone by courtesy of Thames Television.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Ritz, Issue 18 1978

midnight blue 2

midnight blue 3

midnight blue 4

midnight blue 5

Inspirational Images: Cool-Cut Hot Raspberry

1960s, british boutique movement, clive arrowsmith, georgina linhart, Inspirational Images, just looking, Vogue

Cleverly-cut bra top, just tied in a knot in burning hot pink, with loose low trousers of the ame. By Georgina Linhart, 91/2 gns, at Just Looking.

Cleverly-cut bra top, just tied in a knot in burning hot pink, with loose low trousers of the ame. By Georgina Linhart, 9½ gns, at Just Looking.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1969

Starlet Nights

antony price, british boutique movement, clive arrowsmith, Hamish Bowles, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, maudie james, Monty Don, murray arbeid, sheridan barnett, Stephen Jones, Vintage Editorials

Upstaging madly in a flurry of feathers, flounces and faux jewels, our chorus line throws caution to  the wings and takes centre stage for a thousand and one glamour-puss nights, directed by Hamish Bowles, 19.

Left to right: Black taffeta dress by Murray Arbeid. Black velvet and rose fascinator by Stephen Jones. Black wool crepe sheath dress with feathers by Sheridan Barnett. Black marabou and ostrich feathered opera coat by Sheridan Barnett, from Roxy 25 Kensington Church Street. Mauve taffeta and velvet stripe dress by Murray Arbeid. Rose hat by Stephen Jones. Crystal drop earrings by Monty Don. Black sun-ray pleated lame and chiffon evening dress by Antony Price, to order from Ebony. Earrings by Andrew Logan.

Upstaging madly in a flurry of feathers, flounces and faux jewels, our chorus line throws caution to the wings and takes centre stage for a thousand and one glamour-puss nights, directed by Hamish Bowles, 19.

A fascinating little spread here, directed by a 19-year-old Hamish Bowles and featuring pieces by established designers like Sheridan Barnett, Murray Arbeid and the Antony Price I’d give my first born to own… Plus up and coming designers like Stephen Jones and Monty Don (yes, that Monty Don…). Plus the make-up was by iconic Sixties model, Maudie James. I’m not such a huge fan of Harpers and Queen in this period, but this spread is such a perfect combination of what had been and what was to come – which makes it a definite cut above the rest.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, August 1983