Many designers look increasingly to the past for their inspiration, and, to find suitable backgrounds for modern clothes. Fashion Editor Cherry Twiss took a selection to Ireland where, with the help of the Irish Georgian Society, she discovered magical, timeless settings for the newest fashions.
“Upgathering Feather-like frills, they step demure as nuns, Nor heed the menacing eyes on every side, Dead set unceasingly like levelled guns. Truly I think each woman is a bird.” Seamus O’Sullivan, Birds.
As always, no shouting at the me for the furs please. Pretend they’re fake. Enjoy the pretty clothes and landscapes instead…
Plaits by Tovar Tresses at Miss Selfridge.
Hair by Roger at Vidal Sassoon.
Make-up by Estee Lauder.
Photographed by Anders Holmquist.
Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, August 21st 1970.
Every designer is saying it loudly, clearly, boldly, prettily… the hand-made look is here. Maybe it started as a reaction against the badly-made, thrown-together, hotch-potched dolly era; maybe this reaction set the tide running for antique markets where painstaking workmanship could be picked up still; maybe it’s that elusive feeling in the air that a designer’s sensitive seismograph picks up and translates in his own distinctive handwriting. Whatever it is – it’s here.
Jorn Langberg of Christian Dior – London plots it out in warm brown velvet, got together with a brief, embroidered waistcoat and a deeply embroidered peasant skirt… at the other end of the scale the Dress Den at Kensington Antique Market tops a thick aubergine cotton skirt spilled with bright wool flowers with a scrap of bolero, pictorially embroidered over every centimetre of the scalloped front. If you’re skilled with a needle, have a good eye for colour and shape there’s no reason why you can’t put yourself ahead of the game. But this is a painstaking look, a one-off original look that can’t be tossed off in an evening by a hopeful but bodgy amateur needlewoman.
Both shirts by Jeff Banks; all accessories from Kensington Antique Market.
Fashion by Lorna Cattell.
Photographed by Frank Horvat.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1971.
Shorts in cream patterned satin with lace, by Funn.
At last, at last, British designers have realised that underwear is worn to be seen – and this season sees the prettiest, sexiest lingerie for some time. Nonsense undies are still with us – those barely-there bras, more supported than supportive, but shapelier ladies can now choose from a wide selection of really beautiful things.
Photographed by Paul Harris.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, November 1975.
Bra and matching briefs in white lace from Harrods. Suspender belt by Courtenay.
Lithe leotard and tights, both from Fenwick. Socks by Mary Quant. Hairnet from Medina.
Film star petticoat and knickers by Janet Reger. Stockings by Funn. Flat dancing pumps by Charles Jourdan.
Pale pink bra and French knickers by Dior at Fenwick. Stockings by Mary Quant. Powder puff from Harrods. Chair by Plia at Habitat.
Slinky all-in-one set in lavender Lycra by Robin Alexis.
Two silk prints in primary colours on beige. £69 at Liberty. Flower strewn hat by Christian Dior Chapeaux. Beige shoes by Andrea Pfister at Bata International. Necklaces and rings from Hope & Eleanor.
The new Liberty silks by Bernard Nevill are quintessential summer—sprigged or swagged with flower from the cornfield, the garden the riverbank, in primary colours on tinted grounds. For a hot sun day, a slate blue trellised blazer over a dress with sprigged pleats, for a sunshine evening, a dress of all sorts of flowers and paisley gathered into long skirt and round puff sleeves. The first look to make, the second to buy.
Prints from Liberty’s Chameleon range designed by Bernard Nevill.
Photographed by Barry Lategan.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, July 1971.
Quilted jacket and wildflower pleats, left: Slate and black blazer, Vogue Paris Original Pattern 2499, designed by Ungaro. Blue flowered beige dress with long sleeves, long torso. Vogue Pattern 2469. Panama hat, by Diorling, from Debenham & Freebody. Suede shoes by Pedro Garcia.
Left to Right: Ungaro, Torrente, Ungaro, Feraud, Feraud, Dior, Feraud and Dior
This is Paris, Spring ’70, though to the uninitiated it might look more like the Wild West than the Right Bank. Some designer are familiar, some so beyond the fringe as to pass without comments, and some so beautiful that you’ll stop at nothing to get your hands on them. High on the wanted list are suedes with Aztec-Indian embroidery and tiny, chin-knotted scarves and long-line boots. There are extra-bulbous knickerbockers with tunic tops that halt firmly at the buttocks, midi-length satin or silk-jersey, pintucked or slit way to the waist, spotted suede, squaw fringing, lace-up sleeves — in every length from mini to maxi!
Fashion by Sue Hone. Illustrated by Leslie Chapman.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, 4th April 1970