Every designer is saying it loudly, clearly, boldly, prettily… the hand-made look is here. Maybe it started as a reaction against the badly-made, thrown-together, hotch-potched dolly era; maybe this reaction set the tide running for antique markets where painstaking workmanship could be picked up still; maybe it’s that elusive feeling in the air that a designer’s sensitive seismograph picks up and translates in his own distinctive handwriting. Whatever it is – it’s here.
Jorn Langberg of Christian Dior – London plots it out in warm brown velvet, got together with a brief, embroidered waistcoat and a deeply embroidered peasant skirt… at the other end of the scale the Dress Den at Kensington Antique Market tops a thick aubergine cotton skirt spilled with bright wool flowers with a scrap of bolero, pictorially embroidered over every centimetre of the scalloped front. If you’re skilled with a needle, have a good eye for colour and shape there’s no reason why you can’t put yourself ahead of the game. But this is a painstaking look, a one-off original look that can’t be tossed off in an evening by a hopeful but bodgy amateur needlewoman.
Both shirts by Jeff Banks; all accessories from Kensington Antique Market.
Fashion by Lorna Cattell.
Photographed by Frank Horvat.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1971.
Shorts in cream patterned satin with lace, by Funn.
At last, at last, British designers have realised that underwear is worn to be seen – and this season sees the prettiest, sexiest lingerie for some time. Nonsense undies are still with us – those barely-there bras, more supported than supportive, but shapelier ladies can now choose from a wide selection of really beautiful things.
Photographed by Paul Harris.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, November 1975.
Bra and matching briefs in white lace from Harrods. Suspender belt by Courtenay.
Lithe leotard and tights, both from Fenwick. Socks by Mary Quant. Hairnet from Medina.
Film star petticoat and knickers by Janet Reger. Stockings by Funn. Flat dancing pumps by Charles Jourdan.
Pale pink bra and French knickers by Dior at Fenwick. Stockings by Mary Quant. Powder puff from Harrods. Chair by Plia at Habitat.
Slinky all-in-one set in lavender Lycra by Robin Alexis.
Champagne petticoat by Mrs Hilton for Finewear.
Playsuit and skirt by Ossie Clark for Radley. Shoes from Russell and Bromley.
An incredible editorial, photographed in and around Nice. I dream of returning to Nice with a wardrobe full of these frocks…
Photographed by Bill King.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, November 1973.
Cire raincoat by Andre Ledoux. Peeptoe shoes by Saint Laurent. Sunglasses by Dior.
Forties dress by Jeff Banks. Perspex shoes from Russell and Bromley.
Dress by Bernshaw. Fur coat by John Bates for Austin Garritt. Shoes from Russell and Bromley.
Lurex dress by Mary Quant. Shoes by Saint Laurent.
Tie back jumpsuit by Electric Fittings.
Silk dress and jacket from The Suliman Shop.
Two silk prints in primary colours on beige. £69 at Liberty. Flower strewn hat by Christian Dior Chapeaux. Beige shoes by Andrea Pfister at Bata International. Necklaces and rings from Hope & Eleanor.
The new Liberty silks by Bernard Nevill are quintessential summer—sprigged or swagged with flower from the cornfield, the garden the riverbank, in primary colours on tinted grounds. For a hot sun day, a slate blue trellised blazer over a dress with sprigged pleats, for a sunshine evening, a dress of all sorts of flowers and paisley gathered into long skirt and round puff sleeves. The first look to make, the second to buy.
Prints from Liberty’s Chameleon range designed by Bernard Nevill.
Photographed by Barry Lategan.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, July 1971.
Quilted jacket and wildflower pleats, left: Slate and black blazer, Vogue Paris Original Pattern 2499, designed by Ungaro. Blue flowered beige dress with long sleeves, long torso. Vogue Pattern 2469. Panama hat, by Diorling, from Debenham & Freebody. Suede shoes by Pedro Garcia.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, May 1971.
Left to Right: Ungaro, Torrente, Ungaro, Feraud, Feraud, Dior, Feraud and Dior
This is Paris, Spring ’70, though to the uninitiated it might look more like the Wild West than the Right Bank. Some designer are familiar, some so beyond the fringe as to pass without comments, and some so beautiful that you’ll stop at nothing to get your hands on them. High on the wanted list are suedes with Aztec-Indian embroidery and tiny, chin-knotted scarves and long-line boots. There are extra-bulbous knickerbockers with tunic tops that halt firmly at the buttocks, midi-length satin or silk-jersey, pintucked or slit way to the waist, spotted suede, squaw fringing, lace-up sleeves — in every length from mini to maxi!
Fashion by Sue Hone. Illustrated by Leslie Chapman.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, 4th April 1970
Robe de Dior, portée par Eva, pour Votre Beauté.
Photographed by Sarah Moon. Originally published in Votre Beauté.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Photo, June 1970
Square necked sideless dress by Ginger Group. Gold link belt by Paris House. Black patent shoes by Kurt Geiger. Satin beret by Rudolf.
Try a touch of seasonal sorcery – swop clothes with yourself instead of with your sister or friend. Mix tweed with satin, sweaters with fur; play addition and subtraction with your wardrobe to achieve subtle solutions for every climate, every occasion and every mood.
Photographed by David Anthony.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Queen, December 1967
Square necked sideless dress by Ginger Group. White blouse by Eric Hart. Tortoiseshell and gilt link belt by Dior. Brown shoes by Kurt Geiger. Brown knitted beret at Fenwick.
Oxford bags by Gerald McCann in Donegal tweed with detatchable black satin turn-ups. Black satin shirt by Eric Hart. Black patent belt by Mary Quant. Black patent shoes by Kurt Geiger.
Oxford bags by Gerald McCann in Donegal tweed with detatchable black satin turn-ups. Brown and tweed long belted sweater from Browns. Antique Baltic amber beads from Sac Freres. Knitted brown beret at Fenwick. Beige and black ankle boots by Ravel.
Short white fluffy kid coat by Calman Links, with white fox collar and white satin belt. Diamante drop earrings by Dior. Square diamante handbag by Susan Handbags. White grosgrain strap shoes by Russell and Bromley.
Short white fluffy kid coat by Calman Links, with white fox collar. Round-necked chocolate sweater by Laura Jamieson, with long sleeves, buttons down back, and matching ribbed skirt. Tortoiseshell and gilt belt by Dior. Stretch brown leather boots by Kurt Geiger.
Black velvet trouser suit by Carrot on Wheels. Cream silk shirt by Annacat. Square snakeskin handbag by Russell and Bromley. Black patent shoes by Kurt Geiger. Black velvet hair bow by Dior.
Black velvet trouser suit by Carrot on Wheels. Beige polo necked sweater by McCaul. Black belt with perspex buckle by Dior. Leather shoes by Charles Jourdan.
Red stockings by Christian Dior. Underwear from Miss Selfridge
Another glorious underwear editorial by the always saucy, always perfect Mr James Wedge.
Photographed by James Wedge. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Sunday Times Magazine, October 1978
Snow white stockings by Mary Quant. Patent shoes by Sacha. Silk shirt by Betty Jackson for Quorum.
Hand painted stockings by Janet Reger.
Silver lurex tights by Mary Quant. Shoes by Charles Jourdan.
Pale green tights from Selfridges. Shirt dyed to match by Janice Bell. Shoes by The Chelsea Cobbler.
“I have to have the best. Life is too short without it. What I really love is simple perfection…”
Marc Bohan in the courtyard of his apartment, with ” a completely different look for evening… It’s casual but very exciting. The whole thing has an idea of throwaway luxe which I love…” coral crepe lamé smock, deeper coral crepe georgette camisole over cigarette straight trousers.
Really this is more about inspirational architecture. How extraordinary is that courtyard? Like something from a fantasy film. Does it still exist? Anyone?
Photographed by Norman Parkinson. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, September 1974