Ossie Vamps it Up – But Superbly

1970s, celia birtwell, flair magazine, Inspirational Images, kari ann muller, manolo blahnik, ossie clark, Peter Rand, quorum
Long dress with side pleats and sash tie at back, in black marocain flower print, red poppies at the neck.

OSSIE CLARK, twenty-nine, designs clothes that would be right up the street for the woman whose profession is the oldest in the world. There’s nothing Woman’s Lib. here, thank you. His twelfth collection is outlandishly, gloriously and candidly tarty. But tarty in the ’40s and early ’50s sense of dressing: brazen, glamorous, passion-ately female. The cut of the clothes is masterful. The old black magic is there. Jazzy sequins. Star insets. High wedge heels. Ankle straps. Bias cut crepe. Oodles of pleats. Blowsy tulips and full-blown poppy prints. Plus black, and lots of it. You name it—it’s there, superbly executed.

Fabrics include new prints on marocain by Ossie’s wife, Celia Birtwell. Hairdos evoke memories of Rita Hayworth & Co. And contours are as they should be: breasts (bra-less), waists, hips and bottoms are all back in their rightful place — and proud of it. Ossie’s new clothes are as scarlet womanish as they are beautiful and witty. When you wear them you automatically adopt a Monroe wiggle.

Top price for a frock from his collection is £150, but around a fiver will buy you a printed crepe shirt. You may not be able to take this look seriously — but it will probably influence the way you dress next season. For Ossie’s secret as a designer is that his tarty vamps keep chic and never look cheap, jaded, or just plain common.

Photographed here are a selection of Ossie’s new clothes.

All enquiries for stockists and prices to Quorum Wholesale, 6 Burnsall Street, SW3.

Modelled by Kari-Ann Muller.

Hair by Richard at Maximillian.

Shoes by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, SW3, from £17.75.

Photographed by Peter Rand.

Scanned from Flair, August 1971.

Red and green strawberry embroidery on black crepe Oxford bags, matching waistcoat and jacket and red blouse.
A Long, black, marocain dress side pleats, printed with pink and green begonias.
A black marocain multi-coloured flower print dress with suede halter bib trimmed with ric-rac.
Red, blue and green poppy and daisy print on black marocain hour-glass dress.
Red crepe off-the-shoulder dress (with strawberry embroidered 11″ jacket, not shown).

Sheridan Barnett and Sheilagh Brown

1970s, gael mckay, Inspirational Images, manolo blahnik, Neil Kirk, ritz magazine, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, The Purple Shop, yvonne gold, zapata

Clothes available from Sheridan Barnett and Sheilagh Brown.

Shoes available from Zapata.

Jewellery available from The Purple Shop.

Model is Gael McKay.

Make-up and styling by Yvonne Gold.

Photographed by Neil Kirk.

Scanned from Ritz, no.15 1978.

The White of May

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bilbo, bus stop, che guevara, granny takes a trip, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, lee bender, manolo blahnik, pablo and delia, Peter Knapp, quorum, Rose Bradford, Screaming Mimi, sheridan barnett, simon massey, stirling cooper, The Purple Shop, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent, zapata
Left: White cotton edged with red, lots of frills tied up with bandanna bows. By Rosie Bradford, about £15, at Quorum; Che Guevara. Fine white straw, £10, Herbert Johnson. White ribbed gloves, Kir, 75p. Red and white striped canvas shoes laced onto a high wooden platform, £12.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Right: Three deep cotton frills and a halter bodice edged and tied in red. By Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey, £9.95. Small white straw, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Peppermint earrings and clips by Adrien Mann, about £1, at Marshall & Snelgrove. White block and string shoes, £7.75, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Helanca gloves, Kir, 75p. Hat pins, from a selection at The Purple Shop.

more of it, less of it, what there is of it, frilled.

Preview of new white shapes you’ll be seeing when the sun’s hot: all cut out, cropped or split, beginning with flamenco frills piped in with red.

Well, it may not be May any more but this editorial feels perfect for the current weather. And those Manolo Blahnik for Zapata shoes? Pass the smelling salts…

Hair by John at Leonard.

Photographed at the Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens

Photographed by Peter Knapp.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.

Left: Small cotton broderie anglaise blouse under the shelter of a big frilled collar, with a thin gabardine skirt split front and back. Blouse, Stirling Cooper, £4.25, at Peter Robinson. Skirt, Screaming Mimi, £6.50, exclusively for Granny Takes a Trip. White Openwork Helanca gloves, Kir, 80p, at Dickins & Jones. White shoes, £7, Bilbo. Hat, £10, Herbert Johnson. Right: Buttoned padded halter bodice, edged and buttoned in scarlet. White pleated Colonial cotton shorts, buckled each side. Bodice by Rosie Bradford, about £7, at Quorum ; Che Guevara. Shorts, £5.95, Bus Stop. White patent shoes, £16.50, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. White straw, £11.50, Herbert Johnson. Hat pins from range, The Purple Shop.
Wide wide cotton trousers gathered on elastic, a gathered cotton halter top, the edge let go to frill. By Pablo & Delia, £18, at Browns. White peep-toe shoes, £7, detachable bow £1 extra, at Bilbo. Hat, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Earrings, Adrien Mann. Laced cuffed Helanca gloves by Kir, 75p, at Derry & Toms

Smart Things

19 magazine, alice pollock, british boutique movement, Digby Howard, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, manolo blahnik, ossie clark, quorum, sheridan barnett, Vintage Editorials, zapata

A 19 SPECIAL PREVIEW OF AN EXCITING DESIGNER’S COLLECTION

Sheridan Barnett, pictured above, is the young designer who gave Coopers such a good look and who has now joined the Quorum label, with Ossie Clark and Alice Pollock. At twenty-six, he has established himself as the most exciting designer in London, with a fabulous first collection for Quorum that left them clapping in the aisles. Women’s Wear Daily, the fashion bible of America, devoted an entire double-page spread to his collection, previously unheard of for an English designer. He designs with his girlfriend, a ballet dancer, in mind, and ladies like Grace Coddington, model Eija and Liza Minnelli: “Girls who are individual and chic, interesting, attractive and with oomph . .” and likes them to look alluring, classy and sexy. At the moment, his clothes are expensive but we are hopeful that, later on, they will be available in the cheaper Radley range as Ossie Clark’s clothes are. Meanwhile look out for similar lines.

My slightly belated tribute to the great Sheridan Barnett, who died in November. He is one of those many British designers of the time whose work doesn’t really get the attention he deserves; as you can see here his tailoring was exquisite.

All clothes by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum.

Shoes by Zapata. Hats by Digby Howard.

Hair by Ricci Burns.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1973.

Smarter Than You Think

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, bus stop, chelsea cobbler, Deco Inspired, gillian richard, gordon king, Harri Peccinotti, Herbert Johnson, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, lee bender, manolo blahnik, nostalgia, Olaf Daughters of Sweden, stirling cooper, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials, zapata
Maroon hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Navy crêpe de Chine suit, with ruched trim on cuffs and two-button fastening, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £15.95. Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Navy leather shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95. Black bag from a selection at Biba. Navy gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black crêpe de Chine suit, with pink floral pattern and black and white geometric buttons, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. £11.95. Grey tiohts, by Mary Quant, 40p. Navy patent shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £15.95. Black poche from a selection at Biba. Black gloves from a selection at Nostalgia.

That’s what you’ll be in the latest Fifties-style suits and dresses.

Photographed by Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1973.

Black beret, by Kangol, £1.60. Grey crêpe dress, with ruched front, plain skirt and matching bolero, by Gillian Richard, £12-50 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p Black leather bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Onyx hatpin, from Chimera, £3. Black straw hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey crepe clingy dress, with V shaped collar at back and front and cross-over straps, by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper, £11 95 Grey tights by Mary Quant, 40p Black leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95 Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Hatpin, from Chimera, £1
Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown, cream and black check woollen suit, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £16.95 Cream tights, from Biba, 30p. Brown leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, 17 95 Brown crocodile bag, from Chimera at Antiquarius, £8. Brown gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Rust, green and beige Argyll jacquard dress, by Gordon King, £15 Plain seamed tights, by Pretty Polly, 41p. Brown leather court shoes, from Zapata, E19. Brown crocodile bag from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Cotton scarves, from Herbert Jobnson, 32p each
Tomato, beige and brown jacquard turban. E1-25. Crêpe shirt, E7-95. Both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Orange gaberdine skirt, by Gordon King, £1050. Jacket, with open front and two-button lapel fastening. matches turban, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. £8 95. Tights by Pretty Polly, 41p. Shoes from Zapata, £19. Bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black straw hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Gaberdine skirt, by Stirling Cooper. £8 50. Check woollen jacket (comes with matching trousers, not shown), by Gordon King. £28. Cream tights from Biba. 30p. Shoes from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95.
Duck-egg blue hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Black suit, with blue and yellow floral trim on collar and cuffs, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £13.95 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p Black and white snakeskin and suede shoes, by Terry de Havilland, X16 Black bag from a selection at Biba Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown and cream jacket with tightly belted waist and toning skirt, by Gordon King, £29 Cream tights, from Biba, 30p Brown and white leather court shoes, by Terry de Havilland, £14. Brown crocodile bag, from Chimera, £8 Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Scarf from a selection at Essences.
Blue hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Blue crêpe dress, with white trim on front and cuffs, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, 111.95 Grey tights. by Mary Quant, 40p. Blue leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, 117 95. Bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Blue printed dress, with snail pattern and white trim, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, 111 95 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Blue leather shoes, with peep-toes, from Olaf Daughters of Sweden, 19.90 Black bag from a selection at Biba. Blue gloves from a selection at Nostalgia.
Maroon hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey jacquard below-the-knee dress, with maroon print. by Gordon King. £1450 Crocodile handbag from a selection at Essences. Maroon gloves from a selection at Harrods. Maroon and white spotted cotton scarf, from Herbert Johnson. 32p. Black hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey jacquard calf-length dress, with square neckline and collar trim, by Gordon King. £15. Black poche from a selection at Biba. Black gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Onyx hat-pin, from Chimera, £3.

Patricia Roberts Knitting Patterns

1970s, jap, Joanna Jacobs, knitwear, manolo blahnik, Margaret Howell, Patricia Roberts, rolph gobits, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, Wendy Dagworthy, zapata

Patricia Roberts designs exclusive hand knits worn by the famous and sold in the most prestigious fashion boutiques in Europe and America.

In 1976 she opened a knitting shop at 60 Kinnerton Street, London S.W.1., selling her own brand of hand knitting wools called “Woollybear Yarns”.

Such was the success of these pure natural yarns dyed in beautiful flattering colours, that buyers from prestige storesthroughout the country were quick to include them in their ranges.

1978 sees the first of Patricia’s magazines to be published independently. All the designs are knitted in Patricia’s “Woollybear Yarns”.

For the first time knitters will have the opportunity to knit these patterns in the luxurious and inexpensive yarns, for which Patricia’s designs are intended.

Happy Knitting!

Possibly some of the loveliest photographs I have ever seen in a knitting pattern booklet, but perhaps unsurprising given the designer is Patricia Roberts and the photographer Rolph Gobits.

Art Direction by Desmond Serjeant.

Hair by Smile.

Make-up by Mary Vango.

Models: Joanna Jacobs, Kelly, Jane Rochelle, Kevin Hand, Helmut.

Photographed by Rolph Gobits.

Scanned from Patricia Roberts Knitting Patterns, 1978.

“Harold and Maude” – Trousers by Jap, shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett.
‘Fruit Machine’ – Paisley print shirt and trousers by Wendy Dagworthy. Black trousers by Victor Herbert.
‘The Whisperers’ – Her skirt and jacket by 11342; his trousers and shirt by Margaret Howell; her shoes by Zapata.
‘Jigsaw’ – Trousers by Patricia Roberts.
‘Blithe Spirit’ – Skirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett. Shoes by Zapata.
‘Gentleman Prefer Blondes’ – Shirt by Wendy Dagworthy. Trousers by Daily Blue. Shoes by Walkers.
‘Kaleidoscope’ – Blue shirt by Margaret Howell; check shirt by Paul Howie. Skirt by Jap.
‘A man…’ – Shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell.
‘…and a Woman’ – Trousers by Jap, shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett.
‘Midnight Lace’ – Trousers and skirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett. Shoes by Zapata.
‘John & Mary’ – His shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell. Her trousers by Daily Blue, her shirt by Wendy Dagworthy.
‘Two for the Road’ – Shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell.
‘Some Like it Hot’ – His shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell. Her trousers by Jap, shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett.
‘Ninotchka; – Shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett, trousers by Jap, Belt by Mulberry Company.
‘A Touch of Class’ – Shirt by Margaret Howell; Waistcoat by Patricia Roberts; skirt by Michiko.
‘Joey Boy’ – Trousers by Margaret Howell.
Patricia Roberts photographed by Rolph Gobits.

“So many things are now mass produced, that there is a growing belief in individuality. Hand knitting is an expression of this freedom, which anyone can enjoy.”

Swaggering In

1970s, biba, bus stop, Denis Peel, Dolcis, Honey Magazine, John Craig, lee bender, lilley and skinner, manolo blahnik, Martha Hill, ravel, Richard Shops, Russell & Bromley, Sheraton, Vintage Editorials, zapata
Bold zi g zag pure wool swagger coat with sailor collar by Sheraton. Polo neck sweater by John Craig. Navy tights by Mary Quant. Peep toe ankle strap shoes by Biba. / Swirly blanket check coat with pleated back by Bus Stop. Suede sunray shoes by Dolcis. Both pairs of gloves by Kir.

The incredible swagger is back. We all know you’ve seen it before, hidden away in mother’s wardrobe, but forget the mothball version and look out for bold stripes, zig-zags and checks in bright primary colours. The difference is that these coats have neat tight-fitting shoulders and wide swirling skirts which swing when you walk-surprisingly flattering and easy to wear. So let the wind blow, all you need is a flash of panache and a splash of colour.

Photographed by Denis Peel.

Scanned from Honey, October 1971.

Window pane check swagger coat by Martha Hill. Lemon tights by Twiggy. Suede ‘Garbo’ shoes by Ravel. / Ritzy scarlet shaggy coat with wide swinging back by Martha Hill. Glace kid leather shoes by Zapata.
Bottle green and yellow McNeal tartan swagger coat by Richard Shops. Black leather shoes by Russell and Bromley. Navy leather shoulder bag by Biba. / Sage green wool tweed swagger coat by Elgee. Rust and burgundy suede shoes by Lilley and Skinner. Bottle green suede bag by Biba.

Clothes for the Adventurers

1970s, bill gibb, clive arrowsmith, Jacob Schlaepfer, manolo blahnik, Piero de Monzi, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, zandra rhodes, zapata
Bill Gibb’s mixture of sequins, leather and silver chrysanthemums. Sequin hood and cowl, dolman blouse glistening under leather waistcoat, leather skirt flared from basque, printed with chrysanthemums. £54, £30, £86 at Lucienne Phillips. Sequined fabric by Jacob Schlaepfer.

The wilder shores of fashion

I was mainly scanning this spread because I’ve just listed a Zandra Rhodes dress which I think must be from the same collection over on Etsy, but thought I might as well put them here too – especially because of that iconic Bill Gibb photo (used for the cover of Iain R. Webb’s definitive book about Gibb, seemingly fetching a pretty penny on Amazon these days). These top-stitched jerseys were a signature look for her in this period and mine also has the Piero de Monzi label. Marc Bolan had a top version in various colours and levels of frilly extravagance.

(If you’re interested in the Zandra Rhodes dress, click here to view it on Etsy.)

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, September 15th 1972.

Zandra Rhodes’s waterfall of unfinished jersey. Dolman sleeved, with lettuce edges and ruching stitched in turquoise, blue and scarlet. To order from Piero de Monzi. Cream leafy leather shoes by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
Zandra Rhodes’s firebird chiffon decorated with satin lilies, frilled seams, the skirt many yards of lightest jersey gathered up here and there. At Piero de Monzi. Jersey by Racine. Bill Gibb’s curves of ivory jersey, gathered and split skirt and dolman blouse pinned with flowers, ribbons and ostrich feathers. £76 at Liberty. Sandals, £14.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata

Get Dressed

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, Charles Batten, Cloud Nine, David Anthony, Inspirational Images, manolo blahnik, Mary Graeme, nostalgia, Retro, Sacha, Samuel Sherman, Spectrum, stirling cooper, strawberry studio, Sunarama, Vintage Editorials, way in, zapata
Scarf around head from Nostalgia. Sun dress by Stirling Cooper. Blue glass necklace from Cloud Nine. Second hand floral sun dress from Retro. Rayon knit shawl from Jump. White leather shoes by Sacha. Pearl necklaces worn around the wrist from Adrien Mann. Flower and veiling from department stores.

Summer sundresses can go a long way. They’re so versatile – you can wear them for work and then dress them up for the evening with hats, scarves and jewellery. Here are some of our ideas.

Photographed by David Anthony.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, August 1975.

Straw hats from Marida. Second hand crepe de Chine dresses from Retro. Belt from Way In. Socks by Sunarama. Shoes by Zapata (left) and Sacha (right).
Black crepe de chine daffodil print dress by Strawberry Studio. Shawl from Cloud Nine. Tan sandals by Mary Graeme. Pink straw hat by Charles Batten. Black crepe de Chine smock by Spectrum. Green canvas shoes by Chelsea Cobbler. Bangles by Adrien Mann.
White cotton pull on hat by Edward Mann. Pale green and white straight dress by Concept at Samuel Sherman. Blue straw hat by Charles Batten. Pale blue and white dress by Concept at Samuel Sherman.

Jap

Catkin Villiers, Dagamar, Graham Hughes, Inspirational Images, jap, kenzo, manolo blahnik, ritz magazine, Vintage Editorials, zapata
Shoes from Jungle Jap

Intriguingly styled editorial from 1978, with the latter two images rather suggestive of the Westwood ‘Pirate’ collection that came a mere three years later. Also featuring some shoes by Manolo Blahnik under his ‘Zapata’ brand. I’m also surprised to see them still using the name ‘Jungle Jap’, which had been changed to Kenzo around 1976 I believe, but perhaps Jungle Jap was still the preferred name in the UK.

Clothes and Jewellery from Jungle Jap.

Shoes from Zapata and Jungle Jap.

Model Dagamar at Laraine Ashton.

Styled by Catkin Villiers.

Hair by Robert at Schumi.

Photographed by Graham Hughes.

Scanned from Ritz, No.18 1978.

Shoes by Zapata
Red mules from Zapata.