Knits in Venice

1970s, alice pollock, Donna Jordan, jap, karl lagerfeld, kenzo, pat cleveland, Venice, Vogue
Alice Pollock

Snia Viscosa jumped right in at the deep end in Venice, invited twenty eccentric different and talented designers to do their own thing with their threads. The result was a spectacular Magliamoda at the Palazzo Grassi on the Grand Canal, and this is what Alice Pollock, Kenzo of Jap and Karl Lagerfeld did with it. What a show!

Photographers uncredited.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1971.

Kenzo of Jap
Karl Lagerfeld

Living up to a reputation

1970s, Alice Ormsby-Gore, amanda lear, Asha Puthli, bill gibb, british boutique movement, christopher mcdonnell, frederick fox, ika hindley, Inspirational Images, jean muir, jean varon, joanna lumley, john bates, mary quant, pat cleveland, Sally McLaughlan, telegraph magazine, Terence Donovan, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, zandra rhodes

For some years now the London fashion designers have had the edge on their Paris rivals for ideas and innovations. Tomorrow evening a film on this subject will be shown on BBC1. Today we photograph the key London designers with their favourite clothes. What do they think of the London fashion scene? Where do we go from here?

Photographed by Terence Donovan. Fashion by Cherry Twiss.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, May 25th 1973.

Zandra Rhodes originally trained as a textile designer; she began designing clothes in 1968. She does not have her own retail shop; her fabulous creations are made to order and sell through the big stores. “I think fashion in London is like a sea with lots of little islands, lots of different looks. I am my own couture island,” she says. “I don’t like committing myself to any one collection. I like adding to it as my ideas come along.” Pat Cleveland, top American model, is wearing Zandra’s “off-the-shoulder lily dress” .of printed grey and cream chiffon with satin-backed bodice and embroidery. From Piero de Monzi, 70 Fulham Road, SW3.
Mary Quant, photographed with her husband Alexander Plunkett-Green, became famous in 1955 when she opened the first “Bazaar” shop in the King’s Road, Chelsea. Now her business includes linen, make-up, tights and dolls as well as clothes, all bearing the unmistakable Quant touch. Of current London fashion she says: “I think the mood is classic, and I love it.” Amanda, a model who typifies Mary’s look, wears trousers, striped pullover and co-ordinating jacket, all in an angora and polyester mixture, and a pure silk shirt. Mary chose this outfit because “it is the epitome of my new collection -the best of everything. Modern classics in the right colours, subtle soft fabrics, elegance, chic – the sort of outfit you want to live in.” From Mary Quant’s new autumn collection, available in September.
Designer Jean Muir with Harry Lockart, her husband and business manager. She started the firm which bears her name in 1966; her distinctive clothes are available at all the major stores. Says Harry Lockart: “The London fashion scene has tremendous potential and on the design side is moving marvellously. It must need organising very professionally along Paris lines, with proper collection weeks, at times that do not clash, so that buyers can see everything.” Joanna Lumley is wearing an olive green two-tiered silk jersey dress described by Jean as “one of my favourites”. About £75 from Lucienne Phillips, 69 Knightsbridge, SW3, or Brown’s, South Molton Street, W1 . Jade necklace by Jean Muir, £15. Shoes, £24, by Charles Jourdan, 47 Brompton Road, SW3. Tights, Elle.
Designer John Bates (left) with John Siggins, Director who handles Publicity, Press and External Contracts. John Bates started the firm of Jean Varon in 1959; he thinks that “fashion in London is no different from anywhere else; but it is only just recently that it has been taken seriously”. Kellie, who is one of John Bates’s favourite models, is wearing a Tricel surah dress in a print by Sally McLaughlan exclusive to John Bates. About £55 from Dickins & Jones, Regent Street, W1 ; Barkers, Kensing-ton High Street, W8; Bentalls of Kingston; Kendal Milne of Manchester. Hat made to order by Frederick Fox, 26 Brook Street, W1.
Christopher McDonnell started his career early in 1967 and now sells his designs at his famous shop in South Molton Street. He thinks London is the most exciting place for evening wear, “but until the factories learn how to cope technically with good ideas for day clothes, the rest of Europe will remain ahead of us in this field.” The model is Ika, who, says Christopher, can interpret any look. She is wearing a cream silk suit with short skirt, £33 from Christopher McDonnell, 45 South Molton Street, W1 . White silk turban £9.50 from George Malyard, 3 King Street, WI. Bangles and choker from Emeline, 45 Beauchamp Place, SW3.
Designer Bill Gibb started out on his own in 1969 and was voted “Designer of the Year” in 1970. He now has a wholesale firm, and in fashion feels that “everybody makes a different sort of contribution”. Asha Puthli, singer and actress is wearing a peach double satin jacket and halter top embroidered and edged with black leather, and Lurex pleated skirt. About £200 from Chic of Hampstead, Heath Street, NW3, or Chases, Bond Street, Wl. Shoes £14.95 by Chelsea Cobbler, 33 Sackville Street, W1 . Tights by Echo. Alice Ormsby-Gore is wearing a plain and printed grey Lurex skirt and sequin embroidered top, £128. Turban by Diane Logan to order. All from Lucienne Phillips, or ZigZag, 100 New Bond Street, Wl. Shoes £14.95 from Chelsea Cobbler. Tights by Echo.

Inspirational Editorials: Weekend Leave

19 magazine, 1970s, Badges and Equipment, Danielle Claire, edward mann, kangol, Lionel Fisher, Mary Graeme, ossie clark, pat cleveland, pelito galvez, Pelito Galvez, quorum, radley, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, sheridan barnett, strawberry studio

She: Felt hat by Edward Mann. Pink sweater and matching cardigan by Ossie Clark for Radley. Skirt by Danielle Claire. Scarf from Essenses. He: Army sweater from Laurence Corner. Cord jodhpurs from Badges and Equipment.

She: Felt hat by Edward Mann. Pink sweater and matching cardigan by Ossie Clark for Radley. Skirt by Danielle Claire. Scarf from Essenses. He: Army sweater from Laurence Corner. Cord jodhpurs from Badges and Equipment.

Featuring the beautiful Pat Cleveland…

Photographed by Pelito Galvez.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, September 1975

She: Red beret by Kangol. White blouse with red velvet ribbon tie by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Grey fleck suit by Strawberry Studio. Snakeskin strappy shoes by Sacha. Scarf from Essenses. He: Army jacket and trousers from Laurence Corner. Boots from Badges and Equipment.

She: Red beret by Kangol. White blouse with red velvet ribbon tie by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Grey fleck suit by Strawberry Studio. Snakeskin strappy shoes by Sacha. Scarf from Essenses. He: Army jacket and trousers from Laurence Corner. Boots from Badges and Equipment.

She: Hat, sweater and scarf all by Lionel Fisher. Skirt by Danielle Claire. Shoes by Mary Graeme. He: Cream and black pin stripe shirt by Nostalgia. Jodhpurs and boots from Badges and Equipment.

She: Hat, sweater and scarf all by Lionel Fisher. Skirt by Danielle Claire. Shoes by Mary Graeme. He: Cream and black pin stripe shirt by Nostalgia. Jodhpurs and boots from Badges and Equipment.

She: Black felt hat by Charles Batten. Black skirt and cream coat both by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Black suede shoes by Russell and Bromley. Clutch bag from Boots. Black scarfr from BHS. He: Army jacket and trousers from Laurence Corner. Boots and kit bag from Badges and Equipment

She: Black felt hat by Charles Batten. Black skirt and cream coat both by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Black suede shoes by Russell and Bromley. Clutch bag from Boots. Black scarf from BHS. He: Army jacket and trousers from Laurence Corner. Boots and kit bag from Badges and Equipment

Inspirational Images: Fancy Footwork

1970s, Inca, Inspirational Images, Meriel McCooey, pat cleveland, Sacha, sunday times magazine

Dazzling sock with toes from Inca, 45 Elizabeth Street, London SW1 for approximately £4 a pair ... The fingerless mitts, also from Inca, cost £1.50

Dazzling sock with toes from Inca, 45 Elizabeth Street, London SW1 for approximately £4 a pair … The fingerless mitts, also from Inca, cost £1.50

The price of boots, like that of most other things today, is disgracefully high: here is another way of keeping your legs and feet warm – with socks.

Modelled by Pat Cleveland. Story by Meriel McCooey. Photographed by Sacha.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Sunday Times Magazine, 12th January 1975

Pat Cleveland in Cosmopolitan, 1973

1970s, coopers, cosmopolitan, david montgomery, Inspirational Images, pat cleveland, Walter Steiger

The wondrous Pat Cleveland from the spread which has already given us Ika Hindley and Gabrielle Drake. Pat is wearing shoes by Walter Steiger and a canvas suit from Coopers which ‘flaunts her amazing bottom’.

“Dressing up is for joy. Colour brings me out of my depression. Red makes me feel like a flower ready to be plucked, green is peaceful. I can feel yellow … A man can recognise the smell of his woman wherever she is.”

Cosmopolitan, June 1973. Photographed by David Montgomery. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Vanity Fair: Pat Cleveland and Gala Mitchell

alice pollock, alkasura, antony price, david montgomery, gala, just looking, manolo blahnik, pat cleveland, vanity fair, zapata

Dress by Antony Price from Che Guevara

I must admit that I am generally pretty ambivalent when it comes to model worship, but two of my absolute favourites are Pat Cleveland and Gala Mitchell. So imagine my delight when I found another issue of Vanity Fair from 1971 (December this time. Again, falling apart. What’s with the Vanity Fair binding?) and an entire spread with the two ladies I love? Imagine my further delight when I realise the shoot contains phenomenal clothes by Antony Price, Alice Pollock and Alcasura [sic]. It helps that it was photographed by the great David Montgomery (whose photos always seem to tickle my fancy).

Outfit by Alice Pollock. Shoes from Zapata.

Outfit by Alkasura. Shoes by The Chelsea Cobbler.

Dress by Simon Ellis from Just Looking

Dress by Martha Hill

Inspirational Images: Pat Cleveland in Stephen Burrows

1970s, Inspirational Images, pat cleveland, radical rags, stephen burrows

Scanned from Radical Rags. Photographer unknown.

Inspirational Images: Pat Cleveland in Zandra Rhodes

1970s, Ed Pfizenmaier, Inspirational Images, pat cleveland, radical rags, zandra rhodes
Inspirational Images: Pat Cleveland in Zandra Rhodes
Pat Cleveland wearing a silk screened chiffon Zandra Rhodes caftan in the Manhattan residence of interior decorator Angelo Donghia.

Photographed by Ed Pfizenmaier.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Radical Rags. Early Seventies.

Inspirational Images: Pat Cleveland as Josephine Baker

alan kaplan, Inspirational Images, josephine baker, pat cleveland, seventies fashion, Vogue

By Alan Kaplan for Italian Vogue, late Seventies