Jeanz Meanz summertime, anytime, new blues, faded blues, long legs, a look that’s sexy, tough, goes with workshirt or Saint Laurent blazer, a bright old idea that began with the Gold Rush and just keeps on looking great…
Blue skies, fresh air, freewheeling and summer suede shorts. This way.
Unusually for Vogue, this spread doesn’t credit a photographer. It also credits those amazing shoes to Rowley and Oram, who stocked Terry de Havilland’s shoes, so I suspect that they are by him as well.
On our left, this page, the satin Samurai appliquéd on a satin polyester T-shirt, £18; with sashiko—pure black cotton,–hip shorts. Black raggedy jacket of peacock feathers, with feather chaps buckled to the legs. Black patent boots on red satin platform soles,£28. Centre, copper satin coat covered with navy and white cotton discs filled with butterflies, zipped up side, round the armhole to the collar and down the other side. Right, sashiko with a plaid of coloured lines, a violent satin hara kiri committed on the back (switched round here), £75. Black patent boots with turquoise satin platforms, £28. Wooden comb in the hair.
… and his marvellous painted circus of clothes. Twenty-seven years old, from Tokyo, he sells these unique clothes at Boston-1.51 where they hang like brilliant puppets, all the tradition of the Japanese theatre behind them. All clothes at Boston-1 51. Kansai Yamamoto oversees them in traditional kabuki stage manager’s kimono. Make-up, by Sachiko Shibayama, who has studied kabuki make-up for eight years.
Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.
Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.
Above left, scarlet, black and white kimono blouse, wide skirt with dragon teeth hem, big curved belt that says “fireman!” about £95. Black patent boots on scarlet satin, £28. Centre, “Fireman’s boss” sashiko vest with scarlet words, about £30. Sashiko tied leggings. Right, spiral zipped coat flared through six orders of plaid, all crossed again with quilting, in brown, rust, blue, dark red, lined with black cotton, £30.
…in a leafy glade – the green and woody scent of Coty’s Emeraude. Short beige silk kimono, £35, scarf, £8, printed with figures by Kansai Yamamoto, matching umbrella by Kanei Orimono, £5 from Boston-151.
Modelled by Marie Helvin. Photographed by Barry Lategan.
Loose black crepe jacket with padded shoulders and tulip appliqué, £44.50; matching Oxford Bags, £11.50; appliqué-ed sleeveless waistcoat, £14.75; emerald satin shirt, £7.50; Ossie Clark exclusive to Boston 151. Shoes, £16; Chelsea Cobbler.
Photographed by James Wedge.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, December 1971.
Jacket by Mr Freedom. Jeans by Male for The Pant House. Shoes at St Laurent, Rive Gauche.
Jeans, reclaimed from the bobby-soxer era, are back. True-blue jeans, given the Fifties treatment, rolled up to mid calf, revealing thick white socks and canvas sneakers, or totteringi high heels, clamped to the ankle with straps. It’s back to popcorn-and-ponytails, with angora sweater and beads or floppy blouses with belts, and shirts knotted self-consciously under Marilyn Monroe bosoms. It’s all fizz and fun and bubble-gum, just like High School kids used to be before politics and pollution, wars and recessions, drugs and permissiveness overwhelmed them.
Photographed by David Montgomery at Battersea Fun Fair and inside Mr Freedom.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, July 1971
Photographed by the jukebox at Mr Freedom. Jacket by Kansai Yamamoto for Boston-151. Denim jeans from Countdown. Green and pink leather shoes by Yamamoto for Boston-151. Badges from Mr Freedom
Jacket by Henry Lehr at Miss Selfridge. Canvas boots at The Westerner. Denim jeans at The Westerner. Handkerchief at Herbert Johnson.
Blouse from Boston-151. Belt from St Laurent. Denim jeans by Wild Mustang Co. White leather shoes by Charles Jourdan.