Inspirational Editorials: James Dean Rides Again

1970s, Boston-151, british boutique movement, charles jourdan, countdown, david montgomery, Henry Lehr, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, Kansai Yamamoto, miss selfridge, mr freedom, The Westerner, vanity fair, Vintage Editorials, Wild Mustang Co., yves saint laurent

Jacket by Mr Freedom. Jeans by Male for The Pant House. Shoes at St Laurent, Rive Gauche.

Jeans, reclaimed from the bobby-soxer era, are back. True-blue jeans, given the Fifties treatment, rolled up to mid calf, revealing thick white socks and canvas sneakers, or totteringi high heels, clamped to the ankle with straps. It’s back to popcorn-and-ponytails, with angora sweater and beads or floppy blouses with belts, and shirts knotted self-consciously under Marilyn Monroe bosoms. It’s all fizz and fun and bubble-gum, just like High School kids used to be before politics and pollution, wars and recessions, drugs and permissiveness overwhelmed them.

Photographed by David Montgomery at Battersea Fun Fair and inside Mr Freedom.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, July 1971

Photographed by the jukebox at Mr Freedom. Jacket by Kansai Yamamoto for Boston-151. Denim jeans from Countdown. Green and pink leather shoes by Yamamoto for Boston-151. Badges from Mr Freedom

Jacket by Henry Lehr at Miss Selfridge. Canvas boots at The Westerner. Denim jeans at The Westerner. Handkerchief at Herbert Johnson.

Blouse from Boston-151. Belt from St Laurent. Denim jeans by Wild Mustang Co. White leather shoes by Charles Jourdan.

Inspirational Images: Renate Zatsch in Antony Price

1970s, antony price, british boutique movement, Inspirational Images, mild sauce, norman eales, Renate Zatsch

Photographed by Norman Eales

“If you are not wearing jeans you must be over thirty,” says Renate Zatsch twenty-five-year-old German cover girl in her Dietrich accent. “Jeans are a way of life, who doesn’t wear them?” says her boyfriend Michael Calderon. Renate likes jeans that fit. These white cotton pop jeans are seamed ove rthe bottom to fit like flypaper, and the off the shoulder blouse is bursting out all over. “It’s a gas,” says Renate. Jeans and blouse £7 each by Anthony [sic] Price. His jeans £7.50, sweater £18 at Browns.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, May 1972

Inspirational Images: Taking the wrap in Bus Stop

1970s, Berndt Brenken, Blades, bus stop, cosmopolitan, Inspirational Images, lee bender

Photographed by Berndt Brenken

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, September 1975

Inspirational Illustrations: Bath time

1970s, cosmopolitan, Illustrations, Inspirational Images, Karen Beck

Illustration by Karen Beck

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, February 1974

Mensday: Ruff and Tuff

1970s, Mensday, menswear, sunday times magazine, Vintage Adverts

Flagrance? You’re really going down that route? Hmm.

Both scanned from the same copy of The Sunday Times Magazine. I guess ruffled dress shirts were really doing it for the ladies in 1973*.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Sunday Times Magazine, December 1973

*They still do it for this lady in 2012, but I reckon you all know me well enough to have guessed that…

Inspirational Illustrations: The Alabaster Necklace

1970s, Illustrations, Ingrid Schütte, nova magazine

Illustration by Ingrid Schütte

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Nova, December 1972

The Minnelli Style

1970s, david bailey, Halston, Inspirational Images, Liza Minnelli, Meriel McCooey, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine

Liza Minnelli has been in show business off and on since the age of three when she had her first walk-on part in The Good Old Summertime. Now at the age of 27 she is a firmly established, gutsy, vital, talented star who appears to have the necessary resilience to stay one. But the public demands that its current idols should always be on show, so Liza Minnelli’s looks, costumes and make-up have become an essential part of her professional life. But did she really like clothes ?

“Well, I am one of the 10 best dressed women in the world — so they tell me.” Who tells you? “They tell me.” She gave an abrupt shout of laughter and then looked gloomy, as if the sound of her voice depressed her. Dressed in a beige knitted suit bordered with a brown frieze and wearing no make-up, she apologised for keeping us waiting just a few minutes, and explained that she had been rehearsing for the three concerts that she was to do in London later that week. “Do you mind if I eat something? I haven’t had a bite all day.” Rapidly she spooned her way through a plate of clear soup, crunched some celery, and cut a slice of cheese which she ate like cake. Did she diet? “No, I really don’t have to. I drop pounds when I work; the weight just rolls off.” When she I was younger she tipped the scales at over ll stone; she’s thinner now, but still nicely curvy rather than model-girl skinny.

Stage costumes designed by Keith Hodges

In the bedroom she opened her wardrobe door: it bulged with clothes. “I’m afraid that I haven’t got much here, all the really great stuff is on its way from the States.” On her dressing-table, next to a bottle of Vitamin B with Vitamin C complex tablets, were rows of giant lashes laid out like dead insects — these eyelashes have become almost her trade-mark. “And we’ve got boxes more,” said her secretary. “They are made from real hair,” Liza explained. “Christina makes them up for me, and when they get a bit tacky we send them back and she washes and re-does them for me.”

Her emphatic, idiosyncratic make-up was created by the Hollywood beautician Christina (Christina prefers the word ‘created’), and from time to time she` tums up to adjust it and apply it. “Shc designed it for me but wrote it all down so that I can do it myself.” Liza disappeared into the bathroom, emerging minutes later having washed and dried her short dark hair. Quickly she applied  her make-up and expertly fixed on a pair of the enormous lashes which fanned around her large, expressive eyes like peacock’s feathers.

Clothes by Halston

The off-stage clothes that she showed us looked classic and good, a few from St Laurent, lots from Halston whose clothes she adores, others from De Noyer; her silver jewellery was designed by Peretti for Halston in New York. Some of the clothes, like Halston’s slinky black jersey dress and his black sequinned suit, she wears both on and off stage: “I simply adore black,” she said. Once she complained that just because she had been to 22 schools and had tive fathers everyone ex- pected her to be a delinquent: “But I had an English nanny for four years.” Even so, you get the feeling that the girl who used to wear bright green nail varnish and heavy purple eye- shadow lurks quite near the surface.

A friend said: “At home she looks diiferent. She wears funky blue jeans and outrageous shoes.” “Yes, I do like shoes,” she admitted. More than anything else? “Yes, you could say more than anything else.” She produced a pair of white skin, stubby-toed shoes with incredibly high heels which were studded with multi—coloured rhinestones which glittered and flashed in the lights.

“Desi calls them my Buicks,” (Desi Arnaz Jnr., her boy—friend before the arrival of Peter Sellers). “I buy them from Fred Slatten in California. They are the best sort of shoes, made in Italy with the diamanté stuck on in America.” She says that she is a mixture of Italian, French and Irish. The press cuttings suggest she is part Jewish too? “N0, I’m not, but my half-sister Lorna (Luft) is half-Jewish. The Press make mistakes. I get irritated when they put expressions into my mouth that I wouldn’t use, like ‘haargh’ or ‘yee-uck’, which don’t sound like me. Occasionally I might use ‘shri-ek’ – but not much. A reporter once wrote that he called on me when I was living in a London mews, banged on the door, no-one came, but as he walked away, a top window opened, and I appeared and threw a bottle of vodka at him. I have never lived in a London mews — and I don’t drink vodka.”

Clothes by Halston

Her off-stage wardrobe may have calmed down a bit, but on stage she glitters and shines in extravagant theatrical fantasies. “You would have flipped if I’d had the red satin here, it’s straight, not cut on the bias. And the cloche hat with the flower. Oh, but I really want the red dress.

“Keith Hodges designed it for me with the hat. Keith’s 26 years old and works for himself in California. He sent me a couple of sketches one day, they were simple but extraordinary. One had this hat, another a boa. A funny look. You wou1dn’t have wanted it yourself but I felt that it was right for me. They were a combination of something that Chanel might have designed and someone like Casati might have worn.” Marchesa Casati was one of the most exotic personalities of the early 1900s; a great hostess who painted her face white, dyed her hair flame-red before it was considered ‘proper’, ringed her eyes with kohl, wore tiger skins and eccentric hats, and kept a small Tunisian slave whom she once painted gold.

“I intend to make a film about her with my father. We’ve been looking for the right thing for ages. It’s from a novel, The Film of Memory by Maurice Druon, and it’s about Casati’s relationship with a little room-maid, when she’s old and sick living in the Hotel Inghilterra in Rome. She changes the girl’s life. I’ll play the maid who becomes a kind of mirror to the old woman’s memories, and in the few of the flash-backs I’ll play Casati.

“For Cabaret we almost did the clothes ourselves. There was a designer, I won’t mention her name, but the original clothes were just ‘the pits’. I had to tell her about shoulder pads and explain what ‘cut on the bias’ meant. Once I said ‘Look, before the war . . .’ and she said ‘What war ?’ Imagine. In one scene Fosse [the director, Bob Fosse] threw me his tuxedo waistcoat and said ‘Try this’. It worked so I wore it.” She paused: “You know there is a real Sally Bowles? She really exists. Isn’t it funny, Sally desperately wanted to be famous and important – she wanted to be – and now she is.”

Interview by Meriel McCooey. Photographs by David Bailey. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Sunday Times Magazine, July 1973

Dress by Halston

I love you Pinky…

1970s, biba, british boutique movement, jean varon, john bates, website listings, yves saint laurent

Never again will I take movement for granted. About ten days ago, while I was running around preparing to meet up with the gorgeous Laurakitty and then doll myself up for the preview of the new Biba exhibition at Brighton Museum, I managed to ram my foot into my ever-present suitcase. Hard. So hard, in fact, that my pinky toe on my left foot was newly positioned at a right angle.

Of course I could have concocted a taller, more glamorous story about how I had tripped over the hem of my Ossie Clark dress (you know I run around in them all day, right?) or had tumbled from the stratospheric heights of my Terry de Havilland shoes (same as the Ossies, always in them…always…). Sadly, I was barefoot and the reality was painful and distinctly unglamorous. I managed to reset it myself (not quite sure how, I just moved it, not painful until the shock wore off…) and have been flat-bound and hobbling like a hobbly thing ever since. I have been told four to six weeks recovery time, in which I am unable to wear any of my nice shoes and have to keep pinky strapped up to its neighbour. There ensued much swearing and sulking when I realised that Biba (and, a few days later, the Festival of Vintage in Epsom) was definitely out of the question.

Unlike Tara, I have not been fighting thugs and solving crimes from the sofa. But I have been posed rather like this most of the time…

Sympathy (and tea and biscuits) are always welcome, but I mainly wanted to explain my slight absence from the blogging thing. I have been going stir crazy with boredom, but blogging seemed to be the last thing on my mind. Hard to get too excited about frocks and other fripperies when you are banished to the land of trainers and a very strange new walking style.

I am now just about able to get up the stairs to the studio, so slowness in frock dispatchery should be reduced. And there are some fine, fine things to be seen. New listings include Biba jackets, John Bates dresses and Yves Saint Laurent shoes, amongst many other things.

Vintage Adverts: Deodorant and a free Marc Bolan poster

1970s, marc bolan, Vintage Adverts

Scanned from 19 magazine, June 1973

So disappointed that I’m 39 years too late to get my free Marc Bolan poster. Dang.

Far From the Madding Crowd

1970s, Ann Reeves, biba, british boutique movement, bus stop, Inspirational Images, irvine sellars, jeff banks, John Carter, lee bender, miss selfridge, mr freedom, peter robinson, petticoat magazine, topshop

Left to right: Dress, Jeff Banks, £9.90, P.R’s Top Shop. Dress, Ann Reeves, £9.25, Miss Selfridge,

Soft country girl dresses falling just below the knee in dark flowery prints ready for autumn, great for now. Looking sweet and old-fashioned with padded shoulders, sweetheart necklines or rever collars and cuffs – and all they really need is you and some romantic thoughts!

Very David Hamilton/Sarah Moon influenced shoot by John Carter. Scanned from Petticoat, July 1973.

Left to right: Beige dress, Jeff Banks, £9.90, Lady Tramp SW3. Mr Freedom hat, £2.50. Cream dress, Bus Stop, £9.95.

Left to right: Floral dress, Jeff Banks, £15.90, Irvine Sellars, sizal hat £2.50 from Biba. Black print dress, Ann Reeves, £9, Miss Selfridge.