norman eales

Diary of a Somebody

1970s, Browns, David Hockney, deborah and clare, harpers and queen, John Michael, Lakis, Mensday, menswear, mr fish, norman eales, Sheridan Hamilton-Temple-Blackwood
Lord Dufferin wears a linen cream suit by Walter Albini; £120, Browns, 25 South Molton St, W1. Orange crepe de chine shirt; £20, also from Browns. Brown silk ribbed tie; £5.95, John Michael, 62 Brompton Rd, SW3.

Sheridan Hamilton-Temple-Blackwood, thirty-five-year-old Marquis of Dufferin and Ava, is a film producer, art collector, sportsman (`I’m practically always on the tennis court or something’), and financial consultant to an American investment fund. Supremely relaxed and the possessor of a wonderful throwaway wit, Lord Dufferin readily admits to being interested in clothes . . . ‘I can’t pretend I spend hours thinking about what I’m going to wear, but I do give it some thought. All men dress for effect. It’s very much like keeping a diary : you pretend the diary’s for yourself, but deep down you hope someone is going to read it some day.

`I find shirts and ties constricting and I seldom wear them unless I’m going to a business meeting. My favourite clothes for day and evening, if I’m going to a party where one can wear what one likes, are open-neck shirts, pullovers — I have about twenty-five — and sports jackets on top.’

He prefers his clothes close-fitting — ‘loose fit does nothing for one’s shape’. The fabrics he’s keenest on are corduroys, denim, velvet and lightweight wool — all the year round. Colour plays the most important part in his ward-robe. ‘I don’t usually wear checks or that sort of thing; I like solid colours in simple contrast —combinations like red, white and black — or different shades of the same colour. I like white very much for summer, I dislike yellow and am not really wild about green.’ Lord Dufferin sees himself as an impulse buyer with a touch of extravagance, but his formula sounds like a good one for guarding against mistakes.

`I feel that if something is right and you really like it and know you’re going to wear it a lot, then you should buy it. But if there’s any doubt at all, forget about it.’ He remains loyal to certain shops. Browns, which ‘saves one the trouble of having to shop abroad’, is his great source for trousers, sports jackets and pullovers, though he occasionally finds some he likes at the Village Gate shops. At John Michael he buys ready-to-wear suits and shoes.

What he refers to as his ‘ordered city suits’ come from Wealeson & Legate. His ties (`the few I buy’) and other accessories come from Harvie & Hudson. All of his shirts he buys ready made up. His conservative ones come from Harvie & Hudson; his others from Deborah & Clare — buy tons of shirts from them. I like their Swiss cottons and their silk shirts which I wear a lot in the evenings and for the summer.

`I honestly think that most people’s taste, including my own, is strongly suspect, so I stick to very straightforward clothes. They should make their effect effortlessly : you should be aware that someone’s wearing something nice without actually thinking about it.

Interview by Lendal Scott-Ellis.

It has been a while since I did a ‘Mensday’ post, but I thought the wonderfully elegant Marquess was very worthy of one. He very sadly died in 1988 of an AIDS related illness but his brief life left a legacy of supporting and promoting both modern art and film.

Photographed by Norman Eales.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, April 1974.

Black satin tunic top embroidered with brocade butterflies; £28.50, to order from Deborah & Clare, 29 Beauchamp Place, SW3.
Black cotton shirt printed with leaves; £9, Lakis, 48 South Audley St, W1. White cable knit cashmere sweater; £68.20, Mr Fish, 100 Mount St, W1.

John Bates

1960s, avengers, avengerswear, David Gittings, diana rigg, emma peel, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, norman eales, Rolf van Brandtzage, the avengers
Scanned from Woman’s Mirror October 30th 1965. Photographed by Norman Eales.

If you follow me on Instagram, you will already have read my tribute to the amazing John Bates, who died on the 5th of June aged 83. Here I have collated a few images of his work designing costumes for Diana Rigg as Emma Peel in her first season in The Avengers, and an accompanying article from Woman’s Mirror, October 1965. I have also updated an earlier post with clearer scans from Woman’s Mirror, May 1966 of a dress which wasn’t officially Avengerswear but being offered as a pattern for readers with a cover photo of Diana in the dress.

“WHEN people say, ‘Oh, she’s the new Avengers girl’ I know that’s not all I am,” says 27-year-old Diana Rigg. “I had a career in the theatre before this and I know I can always go back to it. I hate talking about The Avengers and what I’m like in it and how I differ from Honor Blackman. I would much rather people drew their own conclusions.

“I dread the prospect of all the attachments to being famous. I work here at the studios from seven in the morning until six at night and I feel that should be enough. The thought of being a public personality, opening shops, and not being able to answer the door in my curlers, horrifies me.”

But being the Avengers girl has its advantages. Not the least of them being the prospect of wearing a sizz-ling new wardrobe, designed specially for the series by John Bates of Jean Varon.

“John’s been absolutely smashing,” says Diana. “Like most actresses, I spend a lot of time studying myself for the stage, and so off-stage I tend to the casual. I really have no set ideas about clothes. First of all, John studied my figure, discovered my faults, used them, and made a virtue out of them.

“He’s emphasised my broad shoulders with cutaway necklines. He’s drawn attention to my big hips with hipsters and huge broad belts. I think that this is a far more realistic attitude than designing for some impossible ideal model figure.

“There’s a kind of swinginess about John’s clothes which really makes me move in a special kind of way. And they’re all interchangeable. In different episodes there will be different permutations of the same clothes and ideally, of course, this is just how a woman’s wardrobe should be.

In deference to the American market, which still thinks that leather is the sexiest thing out, Diana has one leather fighting suit. “Of course, leather isn’t sexy at all,” she says, “It’s far too rigid. My other fighting suit is in black, clingy jersey which is far sexier.”

Clingy jersey fighting suits are all very well, but they have to stand up to pretty stiff competition in the shape of some snazzy interchangeables.

In this week’s instalment set in a gloomy Scottish castle, Diana will wear ice-blue lace ensemble with ankle boots, hipster trousers, bare midriff, bra top and modesty jacket. For exploring dungeon and torture chambers, flesh lace catsuit under white chiffon negligee.

There’s no doubt about it. If the clothes are anything to go by, this ABC series of The Avengers is certainly living up to the boast of its associate producer . . “It’s still a kinky show.”

Scanned from John Bates: Fashion Designer by Richard Lester.
Scanned from Television Stars Annual.
Scanned from Woman’s Mirror, 28th May 1966. Photographed by Rolf van Brandtzage.
Scanned from John Bates: Fashion Designer by Richard Lester. Photogrphed by David Gittings.
Scanned from Fashion in the 60s by Barbara Bernard.
Scanned from John Bates: Fashion Designer by Richard Lester. Photogrphed by David Gittings.
Scanned from Fashion in the 60s by Barbara Bernard.
Photographed by David Gittings. Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, September 26th 1965.
Scanned from Woman’s Mirror October 30th 1965.

Fresh, white and very laid back

1970s, Adrian Mann, chelsea cobbler, cosmopolitan, French Connection, norman eales, Russell & Bromley, strawberry studio, Sujon, Sun and Sand, Vintage Editorials, Wardrobe
T-shirt, French Connection. Trousers, Strawberry Studio. Chiffon scarves, Bazaar. Sandals, The Chelsea Cobbler. / Camisole top, Sun & Sand. Tie dyed skirt, Bazaar. Sash belt, Courtney Reed.

The way we’ll look this summer is very relaxed, very casual and very, very LA. T-shirting is the fabric, white is the colour and soft is the mood. Look cool and feel fresh in glamorous dresses, gathered skirts and drawstring trousers, all in jersey. Where best to show the new sweatshirt style but in sunny California? So we skytrained west to LA, thanks to Laker Air Travel’s new low London-Los Angeles air fare, which costs from £159 for the round trip. The private pool-side life in Beverly Hills is a plush style we could easily become addicted to . . . well, couldn’t you?

Pages 132 -135, 138-139 photographed at the house of interior designer, William L Chidester. Pages 136-137 photographed at the house of photographer Norman Eales.

Fashion by Liz Smith. Make-up by Bjorn.

Photographed by Norman Eales.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, May 1978.

Lace-banded top, Bobos. £8.25. Cotton jersey skirt, Via Vai, Y1 7.50. Scarf sash, Bazaar, £4 50. Sun-glasses. Primetta, £6.95 Men’s swimming trunks, Speedo, £4.25. Silk flower and leather shell rouleaux tied at neck and waist, Clive Shilton, £10.50 and £9.50.
Lace-edged embroidered vest, Jousse. 1:7.80. Silk trousers, £55, coat, €90, Adrian Cartmell for Manson. ‘Belt, Chris Trill, £8.50. Mules, Russell & Bromley, £18.99. Silk flower and leather shell rouleaux tied at neck and waist, Clive Shilton, £10.50 and £9.50.
Side-slit vest dress, Pascal for Wardrobe, £17.95 Scarf sash, Bazaar, £4.50.
Cotton jersey dress, Via Vai, £23.50. Both pages, silk flower and leather rouleau ties at neck and waist, Clive Shilton, £10.50 to £13.50. Sandals, The Chelsea Cobbler, £39.
Strapless T-shirting top, French Connection, £2.95 Batwing-sleeve cotton shirt, Monica Chong for Plume, £12.50 Silk skirt, Sujon, £36 Plaited neckband, Nicholas Adams, £1.30
T-shirting drawstring trousers, £13, cardigan, £10 60, Via Vai. Strap-less stretchy top, French Connection, £2.95 Canvas boots, The Chelsea Cobbler, £59. Scarf, Bazaar, £4.50 Jewellery on all pages , by Adrien Mann.

Marianne Faithfull

1970s, cosmopolitan, Inspirational Images, marianne faithfull, norman eales, ossie clark
“I like drag and I like girls playing boys. I think it’s very sexy’.

Marianne Faithfull illustrating an article entitled ‘Women in Drag: Not a fetish but a turn on’. While the article itself is a bit, questionable in its attitude (and written by a man), it does give us this incredible photo of Marianne. Who is also wearing an Ossie Clark suit, just to make it even better.

Photographed by Norman Eales.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, April 1974.

Create a Tropical Heatwave

alkasura, Ara, Baltrik, Browns, Buckle Under, cosmopolitan, Deirdre McSharry, Dorothy Perkins, Emesse, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, Laetitia, Lida Ascher, mic mac, norman eales, oliver goldsmith, outlander, Park and Warriner, Sacha, Vintage Editorials
Lime knit jacket by Outlander. White crêpe trousers by Ara. Ascher cotton scarf.

Oh to be out of England now that April’s here, and whether you are planning on Majorca, the far-flung Bahamas or the Isle of Wight this year, now is the best time to shop for holiday clothes. And having just stepped out of a QANTAS jet that took Cosmo island-hopping via Bermuda to the Bahamas, I have a slight tan and a strong feeling that summer’s fashions will be as refreshing, bittersweet and highly coloured as that tropical drink, Planter’s Punch.

Oh to be anywhere but home, quite frankly. I shall have to recreate these styles on the balcony and dream of even going as far as the Isle of Wight…

All jewellery by Adrien Mann. Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by Norman Eales.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, April 1973.

Sundress by Mic Mac. Scarf by Ascher.
Vest from Dorothy Perkins. Trousers by Alkasura. Sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith.
Striped cotton outfit by Buckle Under. Shoes from Sacha. / Cotton separates by Baltrik.
Dress by John Bates for Jean Varon
Lemon yellow knit dress by Park and Warriner.
Cheesecloth outfit by Laetitia at Browns.
Top by Emesse. Trousers by Ara.

The Party Dazzlers

1970s, Alana Collins, Anne Turkel, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, Blades, bus stop, corocraft, cosmopolitan, Dana Gillespie, Deirdre McSharry, edina ronay, Eva Reuber-Staier, Feathers, Fiona Lewis, Hildebrand, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, just men, mary quant, Nancy Bleier, norman eales, Peter Bubb, Peter Finley, platforms, polly peck, Sally McElvin, sandie shaw, Stephanie McLean, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Dana Gillespie, the bosomy (43 in., actually) Mary Magdalene in Jesus Christ Superstar, is the most modest of party girls. At the show’s opening night party she turned up in her old gipsy skirt and a t-shirt, happily flashing her gold and jewelled snake rings. “Sometimes I feel like being outrageous – I just wish there were more parties to entice me out. When I was on my own I went to parties to see more people so I wouldn’t be on my own.” Alone only for the picture, Dana wears her snake collection, backed by a velvet dress and jewelled jacket, designed by her friend Sally McElvin. Pop designer Sally makes one-offs only, from £20.

In the words of Noel Coward, every girl ought to be able to say the morning after, “I’ve been to a mah-vellous party.” A little champagne does not go amiss, but this winter the clothes alone will put a gleam in your eye. There are enough sequins, crystal beads and glittering fabrics to guarantee you are the star attraction. To clinch the deal, I’ve asked some of the most stunning party girls around to give their definition of what constitutes a marvellous party and to put the most dazzling party frocks to the test…

Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by Norman Eales.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, December 1972.

Ann Turkel is the 5ft 10in. tall New Yorker who steals the limelight from the stars at film premieres, so parties are just kid’s stuff. “Parties? That’s when I know no other woman in the room can ‘top me’. I make a real effort – my mother has dresses made up specially in New York and ships them over – I never wear the same dress as any other woman. I know I’m a success when the photographers start crowding me. I like a man who appreciates when you are looking great.” Ann, who likes to move in a cloud of Youth Dew by Estee Lauder, comes on diamond bright in sequins and taffeta. Jacket by Biba £20. Red dress by Mary Quant £12.60.
Eva Reuber-Staier is the ex-Miss World turned TV personality who helped present BBC1’s Animal Stars. She’s cool, poised and gregarious. “I love parties, the kind with pretty girls and clever men. I prefer big parties; there’s more of a choice. I got to at least two parties per week.” The best one she says was given by some Cambidge dons. “Clever, but sexy with it, and could they dance!” Would she make the first move if she fancied a man at a party? “Fortunately I don’t have to.” Cleverly draped, sexy dress by John Bates for Jean Varon £36. Roses by Spectrum. Shoes by Terry de Havilland £13.99. Pop singer Gary Hamilton, star of Hair and several horror films says, “It’s the quiet girls who catch my eye.” Gary in satin trousers by Blades.
Alana Collins is tall, blonde and blue-eyed. “At parties back home in Nacogdoches, Texas, the boys used to call me the Duchess because I love to get dressed up. That was the original one-horse town, but in London I still like to cause a stir. There’s such a variety at parties – long and short hair. I go for the man who is paying total attention to one woman. And if you give him all yours, that clicks.” A lady who watches her strategy. Alana is the perfect Cosmo party girl in pink draped jersey by John Bates for Jean Varon £27. Sheos by Yves Saint Laurent £19.50.
Sandie Shaw sings for her supper. Her husband Jeff Banks, designs for his. United on most fronts, the Banks are divided on parties: “I hate them,” she says. “I love ’em,” he leers. Then they go on remember half a dozen great parties they’ve given including one in a char-a-banc to Southend; another on a river boat and a third at Madame Tussauds. “My idea of a good party is mostly fellas,” says Sandie, “but I don’t like him to look posh. The thing is, he loves me dressed up.” Dolled up for “that great party no one ever seems to give,” as Jeff says, is Sandie in a Banks special, suitably glittery in green and gold gauze. Sandie’s hair by Smiles. Jeff’s clothes by Blades.
Nancy Bleier, a bouncing brunette model import from Milwaukee, prefers her parties on the small size. “Just a few intimate friends, a quite dinner and dancing at Tramp or Annabel’s,” says Nancy who keeps her party figure by taking modern dance lessons. Nancy makes her eyes up like Sophia Loren, wears a lot of scent and generally sticks to trousers at parties. “My French boyfriend says: ‘Darling why don’t you ever wear a dress?’ He offered to buy me one – but never did.” Not downcast, Nancy dresses up for Swiss model Reto in a 1000 watt lime glitter outfit from Biba, top £14, skirt £15.25. Reto’s dinner suit from Just Men, £45.
Edina Ronay, the actress and model says: “A good party is when Warren Beatty murmers ‘call me tomorrow’. Actually the best parties are the ones I give myself – straight and freaky, champagne and – uh – cakes. The people look at each other and enjoy the difference. What happens afterwards – that’s what counts about parties.” Edina, who had her hair hennaed in Morocco, gets ready for her Christmas party in crushed pink velvet and feathers. Dress by Biba £15, boa and ‘diamond’ ring by Bus Stop, £6.50 and £1.95. Robert wears sequined jacket by Dior and ruffled shirt by Just Men.
Stephanie McLean, at 5ft 10in., is the kind of status blonde most men hope to meet at parties. And it was at a party where her husband, a photographer who specialises in nudes, met her. Says Stephanie, “Now when we go to parties we separate – otherwise why bother to go out at all? – but I keep my eye on him. I prefer relaxed, informal parties and almost always wear jeans. Sometimes I get dressed up and he says ‘you look fantatic, we’ll go out.'” Looking dressed up in a glittery silver and black taffeta dress by Polly Peck £12.85. Peter Finley the model who prefers parties for two, wears black satin trousers from Blades.
Film actress Fiona Lewis has the sophisticated face of the Seventies, so it’s not surprising that her idea of a party is simple – and expensive. “Lots of drinks and lots of people, never punch which is a bore and bad for your digestion. Simple things like smoked salmon and chilled white wine are best. And I prefer to wear fantasy clothes which I run up myself from scarves. I ask dishy men and tell them to bring their friends.” Fiona adds her own glitter to a black and white taffeta halter dress, Hildebrand about £18.50 and also a floating red chiffon dress aove right, at Feathers £25. Peter Bubb the model wears velvet dinner jacket by Just Men £35.

The Great Jewel Robbery

1970s, barbara trentham, Barbara Trentham, christopher mcdonnell, cosmopolitan, Deirdre McSharry, Inspirational Images, Janni Goss, jewellery, leonard, norman eales

The Great Jewel Robbery 1

Some men may wince at the thought of wearing anything more flash than an Alfa Romeo watch. And some girls will weep at the prospect of spending any of their salary on him. But there’s no doubt that a good deal of gilt-edged swopping is going on among the sexes. And I don’t mean that trad plain gold band. Much more interesting is the trend for loving couples to buy each other jewellery that they both can wear. It began a few years ago with gilt and elephant-hair rings that the likes of Twiggy and Justin used to sport. Then the Together People began exchanging chunky under-water watches and Cartier’s gold “love” bangles. Very simple, very expensive and very permanent because they are fastened with a screwdriver. Now that even jet-setters are uniformed like Steve McQueen in blue jeans, the latest swop-about jewellery is suitably chunky and shiny as a Harley-Davidson bike—see above: Peter Hinwood in a silver chain and bracelet from Andre Bogaert and ivory tusks from Butler and Wilson. The ear-ring is his own. Janni Goss is weighed down with two chromium bangles by Gijis Bakker, a stainless-steel belt by Emanuel Raft and a silver pendant by Helga Zahn. All one-offs and available at the Electrum Gallery, where customers include Julie Christie and Fenella Fielding. The girls order for themselves and their fellas. Gals and guys who prefer their jewellery on the frankly flash side—and they include Yoko and John Lennon—apply to Mick Milligan who designs the glitter stuff, worn by Barbara Trentham. and Gary Myers, below. Mick designs with his tongue in his cheek, like the BLANG! pins and the Rolls-Royce radiator badge, made in solid silver for Leonard, the London hairdresser, which Leonard’s wife also borrows. For females only: the “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” necklet—naturally 100 per cent fake stones—which Barbara wears with a fistful of chrome rings. From a fiver each, you can tell Mick’s loot is more than a joke. Meanwhile he is laughing all the way to the bank, so BLANG! to you. Lurex knit is by Christopher McDonnell.

Photographed by Norman Eales. Text by Deirdre McSharry.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, March 1972.

The Great Jewel Robbery 2

Inspirational Images: High Noon, Dusty Rhodes

1970s, british boutique movement, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, norman eales, Nudie, zandra rhodes

Dusty Rhodes 1

Both outfits by Zandra Rhodes. Boots by Nudie.

Photographed by Norman Eales.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, April 1976

Dusty Rhodes 2

Inspirational Images: Balloon Suits

1970s, charles jourdan, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, Jane Cattlin, norman eales, zandra rhodes

Both suits by Jane Cattlin. Both necklaces by Zandra Rhodes. Both shoes by Charles Jourdan.

Both suits by Jane Cattlin. Both necklaces by Zandra Rhodes. Both shoes by Charles Jourdan.

Photographed by Norman Eales. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, March 1976

Inspirational Editorials: Second Time Around in Alice Pollock

1970s, alice pollock, british boutique movement, City Lights, cosmopolitan, Deirdre McSharry, Inspirational Images, jackie collins, janet reger, joan collins, L'Odeon, laurence harvey, norman eales, paulene stone, quorum, sarah frearson, Vintage Editorials, Walter Steiger, Zazie

alice pollock cosmo may 73 norman eales 2

“He’s a shade younger than I am, but he’s determined to close the generation gap. Luckily I’m not in the least bit ticklish”.

Your second oyster tasted much nicer than the first. The second time you drank champagne the bubbles did not make you sneeze… As Jackie Collins, the writing Collins sister puts it: “The second marriage is definitely more fun. The first time you marry very young; the next time you know what you are involving yourself in.” Joan, the actress Collins adds: “In my case it’s the third time around. And that’s better still. ” Alice Pollock, the designer, is contemplating taking the plunge again – hence this Second Time Around fashion – “It’s cool to marry again, providing you do it well. ” Paulene Stone, the beautiful redhaired model who married Laurence Harvey in the New Year – and after a long courtship – said: “The second marriage? Oh, it’s a lovely feeling. I was so glad when it finally happened.” (Honest lady!) As is Mr Harvey who describes re-marriage as: “The triumph of hope over experience.” And  to all the hopeful ladies who are contemplating love or marriage for the second time, these beautifully experienced clothes are dedicated.

All clothes by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Fashion by Deirdre McSharry. Photographed by Norman Eales. Modelled by Zazie.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, May 1973.

alice pollock cosmo may 73 norman eales 1

“It’s so restful spending the evening with a man you know well. I just let him get on with his Proust.” Shoes by City Lights

alice pollock cosmo may 73 norman eales 3

“Well we got to Caxton Hall in time. I picked him up in my Porsche just in case.” Hat by Sarah Frearson. Pendant from L’Odeon.

alice pollock cosmo may 73 norman eales 4

Inset Above: “Who says brides don’t wear black?” / Above: “Second honeymoons are seriously underrated. I haven’t had so much fun since I saw Private Lives.” Suspender belt by Janet Reger. Shoes from Walter Steiger. His outfit at Simpsons.