The look is tarty—and where better to go for background atmosphere than Hong Kong, sinful city of the Orient, perfect setting for saucy ladies of ill-repute. In this rich, bustling East/West meeting point, with its maze of colourful streets and endless shops bursting with tax-free jade, pearls and cameras. one gets the feeling that beyond these elegant facades are hidden opium dens, James Bond intrigues, and seamy Suzie Wong bars. We took the ferry across from Kowloon to Hong Kong and travelled to Aberdeen—a small, picturesque harbour inlet filled with over eight thousand junks and sampans, ornate floating restaurants selling delicious, fresh seafood, and crowded local markets.
Styled by Norma Moriceau.
Photographed by John Bishop.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1971.
The styling and clothes in this editorial (I mean, green tights and red platforms? Swoon!) are something close to flawless. Unlike the copy -which I have still posted as a historical document- and also, possibly, the use of local residents as ‘extras’. I occasionally feel the need to clarify that I don’t necessarily endorse all elements of things I post, but I also don’t think it benefits us to completely censor history – especially when one is creating an archive.
DRAINPIPE TROUSERS, PATENT STILETTOS, LUMINOUS SOCKS COME ROCKING BACK
Wonderful to see the combination of Let It Rock, Wonder Workshop and Terry de Havilland in one shoot by Roxy Music cover photographer Karl Stoecker. I’m not the biggest fan of the original Fifties look, if I’m honest, but there’s just something magical about the way this revival scene bridges the Seventies from Glam Rock to Punk and New Wave.
If anyone can identify the male models (or indeed the female ones) let me know. I think Mickey Finn might be one of them (third image, hanging out of the right hand car door), and possibly Antony Price. Which would make sense with Stoecker as photographer.
If you can’t tango, simply steal into the spotlight in these flamboyant rumba dresses. The slipped shoulder strap, the bared midriff and the full-blown flouncy skirts all spell out the sexiest numbers for summer.
The main difference between the content of a magazine like Honey, as opposed to Vogue or Queen, is that the designers tend to be the more intriguing and less well-known of the period. If you want names like Miss Mouse, Granny Takes a Trip or Antony Price, these magazines should always be your first port of call. This shoot alone features one of my Holy Grail pieces by Granny Takes a Trip: the ruffled tie front top and skirt ensemble designed by Dinah Adams. Previously a designer for two other cult London boutiques, Mr Freedom and Paradise Garage, painfully little is known about Dinah Adams (misattributed as ‘Diana’ in the original credits). Which is why it’s always lovely to see her work represented anywhere.
Also shown here is a frothy, frilly delight of a frock by Miss Mouse, a.k.a Rae Spencer-Cullen. A personal favourite of mine, the Miss Mouse aesthetic is precisely why this early Seventies period is my favourite for fashion. Her work was heavily Fifties-inspired, quite ahead of the curve in the scheme of things, but always with a novel twist. Spencer-Cullen is yet another designer whose life remains something of a mystery, despite being a part of a hugely influential circle which included artists Duggie Fields and Andrew Logan. It seems that this anonymity was (at least initially) intentional, as an article from the Glasgow Herald in 1976 declared.
“At first, six years ago, when presenting her quirky designs on fashion, she seemed shy and utterly retiring. Miss Mouse could not be contacted easily by the press. She was elusive, hazed in shadows, a real mouse about publicity in fact. The only evidence of her entire existence was her clothes.”
In a world where we are so used to having information at our fingertips, there is something quite enchanting about this; tiny scraps must be stitched together to create a flimsy silhouette of a creative genius.
Photographed by Roy A Giles.
Scanned from Honey, July 1973.
(Please note – this blog originally appeared in 2016 on Shrimpton Couture’s ‘Curated’ blog project which has since been removed. It seemed a shame to let the posts disappear completely so I hope to eventually repost all my work here.)
Screen printed satin suit by Biba. Brooch, cigarette case and lighter all from Jolly and Marsh at Kensington Market.
Crepe halter midi dress by Clobber.
Grand affairs call for grand clothes, and provide a welcome opportunity to get out of our peasant blouses and jeans and dress accordingly. The nicest thing about fashion at the moment is that everyone is so confused as to what they should be wearing, that you can wear exactly what you like. We opt for the romantic Garbo fashion, tarted up in the ’71 style, because girls are beginning to look like girls again and, although we sympathise with Women’s Lib., we don’t believe you have to look like a fella to get equal rights!
Possibly the most perfect encapsulation of the Seventies-does-Thirties aesthetic, this homage to Art Deco features some of the most lust-worthy clothes from my favourite designers and boutiques. Including Biba, Ossie Clark and some rare Antony Price for Stirling Cooper!
Photographed in the home of interior designer Graeme Gibson rather than in a studio, the authenticity is heightened by the location and the props, and then finished with the sweet illustrated photoframes.
Photographed by David Tack.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, January 1971.
Crepe dress by Antony Price for Stirling Cooper. T-strap shoes from Sacha.
Aegean print pinafore dress by Sidgreen.
Crepe dress by Antony Price for Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Sacha.
Short sleeved pale lilac sweater by Beckol from Chelsea Girl. Silvery-grey cotton pedal pushers by Antony Price from Che Guevara. Red, white and blue tartan shoes from Zapata. Wide red elasticated belt by Otto Glantz.
Alright, your curves are generous, and your behind is big, but hooray! This is the look for you. We’re back to the era of pneumatic sweater girls, when clothes fitted like the skin of a peach, waists were pulled in with firm wide belts and everyone teetered on high, high heels. Now it’s all camped up with bright plastic jewellery, headscarves and colourful wooly sox (Twiggy-types will just have to resort to falsies and push up bras ‘cos, baby, it’s our turn now!)
Intriguingly, after all that copy about curves, the model is credited as wearing a padded bra with plastic air-filled falsies by Berlei…
Photographed by David Montgomery.
Photographs by courtesy of the Piccadilly Bowling Centre, 30 Shaftesbury Avenue.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1972
Short sleeved sewater by Beckol from Chelsea Girl. Satin pedal pushers by Gillian Richard. Red suede platform shoes by Chelsea Cobbler. Red leather belt from Bus Stop.
Red dolman sleeved sweater by Erica Budd. Pedal pushers made by rolling up footless tights by Mary Quant. Red leather belt from Bus Stop. Black snake platform shoes from the Chelsea Cobbler.
This natty knitted two-piece by Plaza will set you back an uninflated £8.90 but teamed with the right accessories – beret, clutch bag, courts – looks like it could carry a £30+ tag. The fabric is a clingy wool jersey in shades of cranberry, black and grey. You’ll find the set at Che Guevara, Kensington High Street and all branches of Bobby Cousins.
If you know me, you know there’s little I love more than finding something I own in a magazine from the time. So when this copy of Cosmopolitan arrived today, I was delighted to spot this Antony Price for Plaza jersey top (albeit with a slightly different width of stripe). I was then, of course, miserable to note that it once had a matching skirt. Boo hoo. You can’t win ’em all…
Photographed by Tony Boase.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmoplitan, November 1974
Left to right: Black taffeta dress by Murray Arbeid. Black velvet and rose fascinator by Stephen Jones. Black wool crepe sheath dress with feathers by Sheridan Barnett. Black marabou and ostrich feathered opera coat by Sheridan Barnett, from Roxy 25 Kensington Church Street. Mauve taffeta and velvet stripe dress by Murray Arbeid. Rose hat by Stephen Jones. Crystal drop earrings by Monty Don. Black sun-ray pleated lame and chiffon evening dress by Antony Price, to order from Ebony. Earrings by Andrew Logan.
Upstaging madly in a flurry of feathers, flounces and faux jewels, our chorus line throws caution to the wings and takes centre stage for a thousand and one glamour-puss nights, directed by Hamish Bowles, 19.
A fascinating little spread here, directed by a 19-year-old Hamish Bowles and featuring pieces by established designers like Sheridan Barnett, Murray Arbeid and the Antony Price I’d give my first born to own… Plus up and coming designers like Stephen Jones and Monty Don (yes, that Monty Don…). Plus the make-up was by iconic Sixties model, Maudie James. I’m not such a huge fan of Harpers and Queen in this period, but this spread is such a perfect combination of what had been and what was to come – which makes it a definite cut above the rest.
Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, August 1983