Long beige slip in lace and crepe, £19.50; soft-lined crepe bra, £5.40.
It is not often that they auction old knickers at Christies, but earlier this year the celebrated wardrobe of Heather Firbank went under the hammer, and an integral part of the collection was her exquisite underwear. Heather Firbank, sister of the novelist Ronald Firbank, was famous for her unique, occasionally eccentric clothes, and though most of them now belong to the Victoria and Albert Museum, the highest bid for the underclothes came from the lingerie manufacturer Janet Reger and her husband Peter. They made copies of the pieces they bought, and tomorrow they will be on sale from Bottom Drawer, 33 Southwick Street, London W.2, and by mail order. They are expensive, certainly, but unfortunately the luxury of Twenties underwear no longer comes at Twenties prices.All accessories are from Maria Cavallo‘s shop Dignetts, at Antiquarius, King’s Road, London S.W.3.
Model is Linda Dagenais.
Words and styling by Meriel McCooey.
Photographed by Sarah Moon.
Scanned from Sunday Times Magazine, November 17th 1974.
Oyster satin cami-slip, £25.00.
Black lace slip, £19-50; black lace camisole top, £28.50
Original cami-knickers from Heather Firbank collection (also shown on cover). The seam-for-seam copy costs £19-50.
As promised, the follow up to yesterday’s post featuring a stunning image of all the prizes which were available in this competition. A satin Biba lounging outfit, Janet Reger underwear and a dozen bottles of Laurent Perrier champagne is probably still my idea of covetable luxury!
Magic moments, happy moments, moments alone and moments together—you know how good all that feels. And nothing feels better than that touch of luxury when it comes your way unexpectedly. Just in case you don’t know, we want to prove it, by putting that touch of luxury within your reach. For us, the ‘Thirties, perhaps more than any other era, set the mood for elegance and glamour, and we’ve chosen all our prizes in styles and shades to capture that mood.
A series of eight blissfully brilliant illustrations accompanying a competition feature. There is also a stunning photograph which I will post tomorrow as I thought these deserved their own post.
Felt hat. by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Crêpe shirt. by Jeff Banks. £6.30 (6gns.). Natural calico blazer has yellow braid edging and matching shorts, by Wallis, £7.95 (£7 19s.). Tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). Artificial flowers from a selection at John Lewis. Photographed at the Purple Shop, Antiquarius, 153 Kings Road, London, S.W.3.
Yves St. Laurent’s ‘Blast From The Past’ award is taken by the blazer. Fashioned a la Dietrich, casual but smart, it looks especially good with shorts, hot-coloured tights and long knee-socks, or pleated skirts. The best choice is plain white, black or red; or hot checks and stripes.
A superb editorial, giving us an insight into the short-lived but legendary Hollywood Clothes Shop and The Purple Shop in Antiquarius (which I feel like I’m regularly crediting in other posts on here) and also designer David Mellor’s shop. It also has the unusual element of every price being given in new and old money – with decimalisation having been introduced in February of the same year. I’m surprised I don’t see this a lot more in editorials from 1971.
Modelled by Sue Baloo
Styled by Norma Moriceau.
Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1971.
Denim hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £6. Cotton shirt in browns and blues, by Jasper, £4.48 (89s.7d.). ‘Forties’ rayon hopsack blazer, double-breasted with Square padded shoulders and two large pockets, matching shorts with turn-ups (sold as a three-piece with trousers), by Shubette, £13.95 (£13 19s.). Green tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). White Orlon socks, by Sunarama, 59p. (11s.10d.). Blue mules with white thonging, by Ravel, £3.75 (75s.). Pretend watch-brooch from Universal Witness, 50p. (10s.). Photographed outside Green’s of Chelsea, fruiterer and florist.
Brown felt hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Canary yellow cotton jersey shirt, £3.20 (64s.). Multi-coloured random striped cotton jersey vest, £1.38 (27s.7d.). Both by Erica Budd. Wine jersey blazer edged in turquoise, with turquoise shorts, by Clobber, £10. Blue over-the-knee socks, from Fenwicks, 50p. (10s.). Doggie brooch, from Universal Witness, 50p. (10s.). Ribbon on hat, from a selection at John Lewis. Photographed at the Hollywood Clothes Shop.
Felt hat by Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s) Red jersey shirt with elasticised waist, £5.95 (£5 19s). Navy knitted cotton vest with red trim, £1.75 (35s). Madras cotton blazer, £9.50 (£9 10s). Shorts, £4.45 (£4 9s). All by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Tights by Mary Quant, 75p (15s). Peep-toes by Ravel, £5.99 (£5 19s 10d).
Straw hat, from Biba, £1.25 (25s.). Spotted cotton voile shirt in red, yellow, blue and green, by Simon Ellis, £4.25 (85s.). Single-breasted blazer and shorts suit in black givreine, from Biba, £9.75 (£9 15s.). Sheer black tights, from Biba, 54 ½p. (10s.11d.). Crêpe scarf, from Biba, £2. Artificial flowers, from Biba, £1.05 (1gn.). Photographed at David Mellor, Ironmonger, London, S.W.1.
Brown felt hat, from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Cotton oatmeal shirt, by Jasper, £3.98 (79s.7d.). Checked waistcoat in shades of tan with rust stripes, £5.25 (5gns.). Shorts, £5.25 (5gns.). Matching single-breasted tan blazer in washable Telenka with flap patch-pockets and belt, £10. All by Gladrags. Brown tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). Long rust socks, from Feathers, £1.50 (30s.). Suede wedge shoes, by Ravel, £4.50 (90s.). Bright green satchel, by Baggage and General Holding Co. Ltd., £1.50 (30s.).
Denim hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £6. Spotted blouse, from a selec-tion at Van Der Fransen. Single-breasted rayon blazer suit by Elgee, jacket in blue and beige checks on white has padded shoulders and flap pockets, and comes with either plain white or matching shorts, 2_15.75 (15anq Navy tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). White Orlon over-the-knee socks, by Sunarama, 59p. (11s.10d.). Navy mules, from Ravel, £3.75 (75s.). Pretend watch-brooch from Universal Witness, 50p. (10s.). Photographed at Parsons, Fulham Road, London, S.W.10.
Navy denim hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Red cotton jersey shirt, £5.95 (£5 19s.). Red, navy and white jersey vest with side button fastening, £2.50 (50s.). White bonded jersey blazer, £7. Navy jersey shorts, £3.75 (75s.). All by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Navy socks, from Fenwicks, 50p. (10s.). White sandals with cork soles from Ravel, £4.50 (90s.).
White dress from a selection at the Antique Supermarket, Kings Road London. Seventh Avenue dress with pointed sleeves, 7½ gns. Paul Stephens twisted rings, 4s.
Props by Miss Joanna Brett.
Fashion by Susan Hone.
Photographed by Laurence Sackman.
Scanned from Petticoat, January 20th 1968.
THOROUGHLY MODERN MILLIE
Roger Nelson floral dress, 8½ gns. John Hamilton wooden beads ,10s. 6d. / Mary Quant Ginger Group green crepe dress trimmed with yellow, £7 19s. 6d. (This dress will not be in the shops until March).
BONNIE AND CLYDE
John Stephen brown gangster hat, 45s. Spotted tie from a selection at Solid Gold, 15s. 6d. Mary Quant beret, 12s. 6d. Gay Girl yellow crepe maxi-skirt and top, 6½gns. & Gay Girl by Marion Maid pin striped trouser suit, £7 19s. 6d. Car lent by David Chester.
GONE WITH THE WIND
Edward Mann straw hat, 45s. 11d. Raymond velvet cape, 17gns. Rodger Bass “Long Snow Queen” dress, 8gns. Youngs Dress Hire white dress and matching hat, 12gns to hire. Andrew Stewart pink fringed shawl.
BLUE
Cowboy hat, £7 17s. 6d., shirts, 79s. 6d., squaw set, 19gns., suede jerkin, 5gns., and trousers at 19gns. from Westerner, 469 Oxford Street. Morel of London riding chaps £10 5s., jerkin 8½gns. Photographed at Lester School of Equitation, Roehampton.
Rust-coloured felt hat with rose trimming from a selection at Van Der Fransen. French Dresden blue shirt with pink and lilac floral print, by Jeff Banks, £6.50. Grey boucle cardigan with short puff sleeves and front fastening, by Crochetta, £6.50. Pale blue circular barathea skirt, by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers, £12. Scarf by Herbert Johnson, £3-15. Green straw hat with rose trimming, from Universal Witness, £5. Blue sweater with long sleeves and round neck, £2.45. Matching short-sleeved cardigan with wrap-over front, £3.45. Both by Erica Budd. Grey crepe Oxford bags with pleated front, by Tuttabankem, £17-50.
Ten years ago, the British woman was bound to her cardigan. Then, in a feverish review of fashion, the cardigan was shelved for the jacket. Now, it’s back in circulation, not as the rather insipid number of yesteryear, but renewed in a long wrap-around version — the sort you cuddle into when it’s cold outside, the sort you wear over dresses, jeans or even suits. Cardigans like this are the most practical knitwear created for ages and the Paris Collections, if they spell excitement to you, were full of them.
All jewellery in feature from a selection at Marie Middleton and Susan Marsh at Chelsea Antique Market. Gold-rimmed glasses from any good optician.
Modelled by Vivienne Lynn and unknown model.
Styling by Norma Moriceau.
Photographed by Ku Khanh.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, January 1973.
Dark green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale green fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Cream bouclé short-sleeved cardigan with very thin stripes, by Crochetta, £8. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale yellow fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Yellow cardigan with two pockets on hips, by Twomax, £4.50.
Sweater and matching cardigan in blue tweed mixture with beige and brown trims, from Upstairs at Lord John, £25 the set. Camel barathea skirt with full front flap, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11.95. White shirt with black and yellow floral print, by Riva, £4-95. Grey cardigan with yellow stripe, by Virginia, £14. Grey wrap-over barathea skirt with pockets on hips, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11-95. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.
Green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale blue flower-printed sleeveless blouse with cowl neck, £4. Brown flowered crepe skirt, £6. Both from Van Der Fransen. Pink wool and angora cardigan, by Crochetta, £10. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, £5. Cream and brown printed short-sleeved blouse with two breast pockets, matching skirt with elasticated waistband, £11.60 the set. All by Universal Witness. Green wool and angora cardigan with ribbed waistband, by Crochetta, £10.
Brown felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Pink and violet print blouse with cape collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long cream boucle cardigan with hip pockets and tie belt, by Crochetta, £13. Black jersey skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black and white lace-up ankle boots, by Terry de Haviland, £15.99. Wool gloves, by Morley, 72p. Grey felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Blue and white spotted sleeveless blouse, with cowl collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long white ribbed cardigan with hip pockets, by Twomax, £7.50. Long grey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black wool gloves from a selection at Browns.
Black cotton shirt with floral print, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Camel cardigan with V-neck and thin white stripes, by Virginia, £15. Black jersey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Cream jersey dress with scalloped Peter Pan collar, by Gillian Richard, £9.80. Long navy blue cardigan with round neck, by McCaul, £4. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.
Halter-necked backless midi dress. brown with red and white splodges. has a peplum waist. by Tony Berkeley. 9,gns. Grey tights by Biba. 10s 11d Metallic silver-pink T-bar shoes. by Mary Quant. E4 19s.11d. Photographed at the Boulestin Restaurant. 25 Southampton Street. Covent Garden. London. W C 2 (01-836 7061)
Every girl, if only once in her life, gets the opportunity to eat out at one of London’s smart restaurants. so when the time comes you may as well make the most of it. The main thing is not to feel intimidated by your surroundings. but to be very cool and nonchalant. as if you do it all the time. (No slumping down in your seat or staring around the room with your mouth open.) If you just don’t understand the menu. ask your escort or the waiter. don’t just point to something and hope for the best. Make sure your hair is clean and shiny. and please don’t have it set and lacquered (very uncool). Wear some-thing soft and romantic in crêpe or voile, that moves well when you walk. or a halter-neck dress with a low back to make the most of the remains of your summer tan. Make sure your dress length isn’t mini (it might be the only one in the room. and then they’ll all know you’re from out of town). Don’t spoil the effect of your midi with the wrong accessories—wear a pair of new Granny shoes with the higher heel and bar strap for added authentic ‘Forties’ glamour.
Ignoring the title (which I have, as always, left for posterity) this editorial is pretty damn perfect. On the cusp of what we more clearly think of as ‘Seventies’, just before platforms and the extremes of Glam, but turning its back very determinedly on the ‘Swinging Sixties’ and looking further back with nostalgic eyes. It’s also a delicious, possibly unique, snapshot of the most fashionable restaurants in London at the time.
Model is Charlotte Martin.
Fashion by Norma Moriceau.
Photographed by John Bishop.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, November 1970.
Cream satin hat from a selection at Feathers. Purple and cream chiffon dress. by Tony Berkeley. 15gns Purple tights. by Mary Quant. 15s Ankle-lacing shoes. by Anello and Davide. 75s. Photographed at Julies Restaurant. 135 Portland Road. London. W.11. (01-229 8331)
Brown panne velvet short-sleeved midi dress has a sweetheart neckline decorated with tiny bunches of flowers by Ossie Clark. for Radley. £14 10s. Photographed at Mr. Chows Montpelier Restaurant. 13 Montpelier Street. London. SW7 (01-589 0032)
Backless halter-necked brown and cream chiffon dress, by Tony Berkeley, £13 Aubergine tights. by Mary Quant, 15s. Metallic silver-pink T-bar shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s. 11d. Photographed at Prunier’s Restaurant, 72 St. James’ Street, London, S.W.1 (01-493 1373)
Multi-coloured triangle dress. by Ossie Clark for Radley, 12 19s 6d. Neutral tights. by Biba. 6s 11d. Ankle-lacing red shoes. by Anello and Davide. 75s. Photographed at Burkes Club, 10 Clifford Street. London, W.1. (01-734 1912) All the jewellery on these pages belongs to our model.
Purple crepe shirt-style calf-length dress. by Ossie Clark for Radley. £15 10s. Purple tights. by Biba. 10s 11d Black T-bar shoes. by Mary Quant. £4 19s 11d. Photographed at Chez Solange, 35 Cranbourn Street. London. W C 2. (01-836 0542)
Long purple crêpe dress with multi-coloured embroidery,-loosely tied at neck and sleeves, by Ann Reeves, 8gns. Neutral-coloured tights. by Biba. 6s. 11d Ankle-lacing purple shoes, by Anello and Davide, 75s. Photographed at the Garden Restaurant, 9 Henrietta Street, London. WC2 (01-240 0088)
Golden panne velvet top. teamed with a Bordeaux and gold skirt. decorated with butterflies. by Angela at London Town. 11gns Aubergine tights. by Mary Quant, 15s. Black T-bar shoes. by Mary Quant. £4 19s 11d. Photographed at Provans Restaurant. 306 Fulham Road. London. S W.10. (01-352 7343)
Maroon hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Navy crêpe de Chine suit, with ruched trim on cuffs and two-button fastening, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £15.95. Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Navy leather shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95. Black bag from a selection at Biba. Navy gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black crêpe de Chine suit, with pink floral pattern and black and white geometric buttons, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. £11.95. Grey tiohts, by Mary Quant, 40p. Navy patent shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £15.95. Black poche from a selection at Biba. Black gloves from a selection at Nostalgia.
That’s what you’ll be in the latest Fifties-style suits and dresses.
Photographed by Peccinotti.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1973.
Black beret, by Kangol, £1.60. Grey crêpe dress, with ruched front, plain skirt and matching bolero, by Gillian Richard, £12-50 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p Black leather bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Onyx hatpin, from Chimera, £3. Black straw hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey crepe clingy dress, with V shaped collar at back and front and cross-over straps, by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper, £11 95 Grey tights by Mary Quant, 40p Black leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95 Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Hatpin, from Chimera, £1
Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown, cream and black check woollen suit, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £16.95 Cream tights, from Biba, 30p. Brown leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, 17 95 Brown crocodile bag, from Chimera at Antiquarius, £8. Brown gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Rust, green and beige Argyll jacquard dress, by Gordon King, £15 Plain seamed tights, by Pretty Polly, 41p. Brown leather court shoes, from Zapata, E19. Brown crocodile bag from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Cotton scarves, from Herbert Jobnson, 32p each
Tomato, beige and brown jacquard turban. E1-25. Crêpe shirt, E7-95. Both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Orange gaberdine skirt, by Gordon King, £1050. Jacket, with open front and two-button lapel fastening. matches turban, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. £8 95. Tights by Pretty Polly, 41p. Shoes from Zapata, £19. Bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black straw hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Gaberdine skirt, by Stirling Cooper. £8 50. Check woollen jacket (comes with matching trousers, not shown), by Gordon King. £28. Cream tights from Biba. 30p. Shoes from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95.
Duck-egg blue hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Black suit, with blue and yellow floral trim on collar and cuffs, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £13.95 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p Black and white snakeskin and suede shoes, by Terry de Havilland, X16 Black bag from a selection at Biba Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown and cream jacket with tightly belted waist and toning skirt, by Gordon King, £29 Cream tights, from Biba, 30p Brown and white leather court shoes, by Terry de Havilland, £14. Brown crocodile bag, from Chimera, £8 Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Scarf from a selection at Essences.
Blue hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Blue crêpe dress, with white trim on front and cuffs, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, 111.95 Grey tights. by Mary Quant, 40p. Blue leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, 117 95. Bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Blue printed dress, with snail pattern and white trim, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, 111 95 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Blue leather shoes, with peep-toes, from Olaf Daughters of Sweden, 19.90 Black bag from a selection at Biba. Blue gloves from a selection at Nostalgia.
Maroon hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey jacquard below-the-knee dress, with maroon print. by Gordon King. £1450 Crocodile handbag from a selection at Essences. Maroon gloves from a selection at Harrods. Maroon and white spotted cotton scarf, from Herbert Johnson. 32p. Black hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey jacquard calf-length dress, with square neckline and collar trim, by Gordon King. £15. Black poche from a selection at Biba. Black gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Onyx hat-pin, from Chimera, £3.
Liz Eggleston 