The blossoming of the chemise

1970s, david bailey, Inspirational Images, jean louis davide, liberty, liberty's, marie helvin, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent

Grass-green speckled crepe de chine print smock gathered from a rounded yoke, the skirt gently flared. About £160, Abraham’s crepe de chine. White patent sandals with the narrowest straps, about £27.Earrings and beads of jade green , from a range. All from Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

Great Designers World Series: Yves Saint Laurent and the blossoming of the chemise.

Hair by Jean-Louis David.

Model is Marie Helvin.

Photographs taken in the new Yves Saint Laurent Paris Salon on Avenue Marceau

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, 1st March 1975.

Cottage rose Liberty printed silk chiffon, just a ruffle off the shoulders on a band of elastic and a gather from the knee. But how beautiful. About £140. Gold leather sandals, about £27. Green tassel earrings, crystal and pearl beads, from range. All at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche

Printed silk, mauve and black with white, loose blouse yoked round the neck and tucked into a flared skirt pintucked to the hips, ending below the knees. About £140, Abraham’s crepe de chine. Hoop earrings and pale speckled beads, from range. All at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

Conjunctions of Beauty

1970s, barbara daly, belinda bellville, christa peters, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Kutchinsky, Make-up, Marcel Fenez, marie helvin, Nettie Vogues, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yardley

White paper taffeta wedding dress, frilled, ruffled, goffered, tucked. To order. White hat with ostrich and snowy veiling. Both, Bellville Sassoon. Marquise and diamond earclip, £12,580, David Morris. Two strings of pearls, £935, £1,120, Tecla. Pure hypo-allergenic make-up by Almay: Sugar Plum Colour Moist Pearl Lipstick, Fresh Parsley Superlight Eye Shadow, Fir Green Creamy Cake Eyeliner, and Night Green Mascara. Soft Peach Near Nude Foundation, Hush Peach Blusher and Translucent Powder.

To look really beautiful for your own satisfaction, and other peoples’, is one of the pleasures of living—health, dress, make-up, joie de vivre in happy conjunction with each other. Here, the most beautiful of everything, together in beauty.

Model is Marie Helvin.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Christa Peters.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1971.

Edwardian blue taffeta dress, right, sashed belled sleeves, a hundred ruffles. To order, Bellville Sassoon. Gold and diamond ear-rings, £790, Kutchinsky. Ring, great pearl in diamonds, Andrew Grima, £1,500. Make-up by Yardley: Ace of Hearts Moisture Creme Lipstick. Supertint Foundation Bloom, with Mini Blusher Rose Blush. Eyes: Pink Glow, Blue Streak and Jade Delight from two palettes of Cats-Eyes, made to come alive under the ultra-violet lights in discotheques. Eyebrows brushed with Slate Soul Set Powder Eye Shadow, lashes with Charcoal Mascarade mascara.

Burgundy crepe de chine dress, opposite, deeply V-necked, gathered under the bosom and sashed with a shaped belt. Very full sleeves drawn up along the seam and tied with a bow at the elbow. By Marcel Fenez, £30. Diamond star earrings, £2,200, at Cartier. Diamond crescent, £500, and diamond and pearl crescent, £360, at Collingwood. Make-up by Barbara Daly, with Gala’s Beige Barely There Liquid oundation, Sheer Blush Sheer Finish on cheeks, and Plain Chocolate Locked-In Lipstick. Eyes: Heather Liqui Tint, Black Liqui Lash mascara, Black Eyebrow Pencil. Nails: Extra Red Little Gem Nail Colour

Diamond constellation of stars, with a new moon of diamonds, set on a sky of blue plum moire taffeta, the huge petal ruffle of a long evening dress, rising in front to hide the camisole top, falling at the back. By Nettie Vogues, £55. Set of five Victorian stars, £3,250, moon, £525, at Garrard. Hair, here and on previous pages, by Leonard.

Tokyo to Tahiti

1970s, harpers and queen, Jaeger, marie helvin, Vintage Adverts

Model is Marie Helvin.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, October 1971.

Scents of Smell

19 magazine, 1970s, hand tinting, Inspirational Images, james wedge, japonisme, Make-up, marie helvin, Mitsukiku, photomontage

Immersed in a bottle of Nina Ricci’s L’Air Du Temps toilet water, £2.15, and surrounded by a mass of colourful blooms – rose, geranium, lily of the valley and chrysanthemums – we show a pure silk kimono by Mitsukiku, £21, and make-up from the Boots No. 7 range.

This illustrative image for an article about scents and smell also perfectly showcases James Wedge’s genius for hand-tinting and photomontage.

Modelled by Marie Helvin.

Photographed by James Wedge.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, November 1971.

And now for the amazing… Kansai Yamamoto

1970s, Boston-151, clive arrowsmith, Inspirational Images, Kansai Yamamoto, marie helvin, Sachiko Shibayama, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

On our left, this page, the satin Samurai appliquéd on a satin polyester T-shirt, £18; with sashiko—pure black cotton,–hip shorts. Black raggedy jacket of peacock feathers, with feather chaps buckled to the legs. Black patent boots on red satin platform soles,£28.
Centre, copper satin coat covered with navy and white cotton discs filled with butterflies, zipped up side, round the armhole to the collar and down the other side. Right, sashiko with a plaid of coloured lines, a violent satin hara kiri committed on the back (switched round here), £75. Black patent boots with turquoise satin platforms, £28. Wooden comb in the hair.

… and his marvellous painted circus of clothes. Twenty-seven years old, from Tokyo, he sells these unique clothes at Boston-1.51 where they hang like brilliant puppets, all the tradition of the Japanese theatre behind them. All clothes at Boston-1 51. Kansai Yamamoto oversees them in traditional kabuki stage manager’s kimono. Make-up, by Sachiko Shibayama, who has studied kabuki make-up for eight years.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

Above left, scarlet, black and white kimono blouse, wide skirt with dragon teeth hem, big curved belt that says “fireman!” about £95. Black patent boots on scarlet satin, £28. Centre, “Fireman’s boss” sashiko vest with scarlet words, about £30. Sashiko tied leggings. Right, spiral zipped coat flared through six orders of plaid, all crossed again with quilting, in brown, rust, blue, dark red, lined with black cotton, £30.

Silks and Satins for at least one third of your life

1970s, Browns, charnos, david bailey, Inspirational Images, John Kloss, lingerie, loungewear, marie helvin, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

silks and satins - bailey - vogue july 74 1

Pale violet nightdress from Browns.

A heavenly combination of slinky nightwear, mid-Seventies tech and a very welcoming looking bed arrangement. Oh, and Marie Helvin of course. This is very much how I would like to spend the next few weeks, months… in fact, a third of my life!

Italian ‘Cifra’ bed by Vittorio Rossi & Luciano Bertoncini from Heal’s.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, July 1974.

silks and satins - bailey - vogue july 74 2

White satin de lys pujamas by Liliane Dreyfus for Vog.

silks and satins - bailey - vogue july 74 3

Pale beige crepe nightdress by Stan Herman for Charnos.

silks and satins - bailey - vogue july 74 4

White nightdress by John Kloss for Cira.

Inspirational Images: The most romantic jewels in the world

1970s, graff, Inspirational Images, marie helvin, Vintage Adverts, Vogue

Marie Helvin in a Vogue Promotion for Graff. Photographer uncredited.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, December 1977

Inspirational Images: An Emeraude Stream…

1970s, barry lategan, Boston-151, Coty, Inspirational Images, japonisme, Kanei Orimono, Kansai Yamamoto, marie helvin, Vogue

…in a leafy glade – the green and woody scent of Coty’s Emeraude. Short beige silk kimono, £35, scarf, £8, printed with figures by Kansai Yamamoto, matching umbrella by Kanei Orimono, £5 from Boston-151.

Modelled by Marie Helvin. Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, August 1971