If you want to keep ahead in 1970 you will have something brown and white in your wardrobe. Biba and 19 put their heads together and chose -chocolate brown and stark white as the smartest colours for the spring. Teamed together they make a stunning combination—classic colours cut in that special Biba way to make a head-turning impact. For those in need of something a little bit special to wear at night, take a good look at Biba’s super long satin coat in liquid chocolate brown — designed to be worn over trousers, a dress or just by itself. It’s well worth the money if you go out often enough to warrant an evening coat. Biba goes long again for the spring with a feeling reminiscent of the early 1900s when ladies wore ankle-length skirts,. large picture hats with feathers, plumes and lots of net. We’re in favour of 1970 being a romantic year, and if you agree with us, then Biba’s the shop for you —124-126 Kensington High Street, London, W.8.
Wonderful not only to see Peccinotti’s beautiful photos of Barbara’s beautiful clothes, but a rare and special insight into the lesser-seen Biba number 3 in Kensington High Street (post-Church Street and pre-Derry and Toms). I’m not sure this will ever stop being one of my favourite aesthetics.
Students at the Kingston College of Art had an interesting assignment set them recently by Miss Selfridge. The store wanted young designs for young people and asked the students to make up a complete wardrobe of clothes, from undies right through to coats, keeping Miss Selfridge and its many branches in mind. The garments had to be commercial in the widest sense, suitable for sale all over the country. From the many beautiful designs sent in, Miss Selfridge chose what it thought were the best for retail. The one to make the most money will win its designer a trip to Paris. We photographed a selection in the lingerie range, all made in Dicel, to show you what’s in store.
A 19 SPECIAL PREVIEW OF AN EXCITING DESIGNER’S COLLECTION
Sheridan Barnett, pictured above, is the young designer who gave Coopers such a good look and who has now joined the Quorum label, with Ossie Clark and Alice Pollock. At twenty-six, he has established himself as the most exciting designer in London, with a fabulous first collection for Quorum that left them clapping in the aisles. Women’s Wear Daily, the fashion bible of America, devoted an entire double-page spread to his collection, previously unheard of for an English designer. He designs with his girlfriend, a ballet dancer, in mind, and ladies like Grace Coddington, model Eija and Liza Minnelli: “Girls who are individual and chic, interesting, attractive and with oomph . .” and likes them to look alluring, classy and sexy. At the moment, his clothes are expensive but we are hopeful that, later on, they will be available in the cheaper Radley range as Ossie Clark’s clothes are. Meanwhile look out for similar lines.
My slightly belated tribute to the great Sheridan Barnett, who died in November. He is one of those many British designers of the time whose work doesn’t really get the attention he deserves; as you can see here his tailoring was exquisite.
Every season there is one accessory that gives any outfit the right look. This time it’s the head scarf worn twisted, plaited, knotted and wrapped round the head and neck. Easy to do, use headsquares, scarves or pieces of fabric — especially effective if you find that you can match an outfit. Here are a few ideas.
From the left: 1. Two lengths of fabric (about 27 inches wide and a little longer than you need to tie round your head) twisted and then wrapped round each other; Liberty Lantana wool Foxglove and Andrea, £1.60 per yard each. Multiple knot necktie in liberty Worsted, Louise, £3.96 per yard. 2. Head covered with Liberty Varuna wool, Erte, £3.18 per yard; loose ends at back are tucked up neatly into the folds. Plait is made with one strip each of Liberty’s Erte, Louise and Foxglove, wrapped round head; and wide gypsy knot at neck, made like a bow-tie with ends pulled through is in Liberty Varuna wool, Charlotte, £3.18 per yard. 3. Plait is two pieces of fabric twisted together; Liberty Varuna wool, Strawberry and Charlotte, £3.18 per yard. Windsor tie knot at neck is also in Liberty Varuna wool, Strawberry at £3.18 per yard. Shirts made to order at Coles, £9.85. Moroccan silver jewellery from Medina Arts. Transparent Gel Face Make-Up, Sun Bronze Air Spun by Coty, 60p.
Down-town Mo Bay is a riot of colour. Houses are made of wood and painted red, blue, green or yellow. There’s a different colour at every step, so a walk down any street is quite an experience. Then there’s the soul music which blasts out of every shop, so you’ve got to look cool. Hence our choice of fun clothes to catch the eye even with all that competition.
One of the finest editorials of all time, from the dream team of Caroline Baker and Harri Peccinotti at Nova. You can’t help thinking about the clear influence of the Impressionists, such as Renoir, on the aesthetic, but also about how this shoot must itself have been influencing other people for years afterwards. For example, Picnic at Hanging Rock was released a mere three years later and the petticoats, parasols and lace-up boots can’t help but remind you of that.
As a side note, but a pretty impressive one at that, the ‘nursery print’ Miss Mouse dress featured here has also just gone into my Etsy shop. So you can pretend it’s 1972 and you’re ‘shopping the look’.
The main attraction of this summer’s printed dress is their little-girl, Sunday-best quality. The star fabric is floral crepe-de-Chine, now beautifully revived, featuring softly shaped skirts, Peter Pan collars and puff sleeves.
Another flawless example of early Seventies nostalgia for the Thirties and Forties, which might seem frivolous or twee if it wasn’t in the talented hands of Mr Peccinotti.
Your poor old great grandma used to wear corsets with lots of complicated lacing and back-piercing whale bones! Fortunately for you, such constricting garments are history, and the accent is now on complete and utter freedom. In fact, you could say underwear has become a second skin – and we prove our point with the following…
It’s nice to know that Harri Peccinotti still has the capacity to blow me away with a new-old photoshoot. Of course, insanely high and sparkly platform shoes and silky underwear plays a large part in that, but the mood he captures is second to none. I wonder if I will ever not believe that this aesthetic is the ultimate?
Spring has taken on a romantic air – with light dresses, billowing skirts and full sleeves. The fabric for day is cotton, especially voile. For evening, crepe is a great favourite. The lines are seductive – wear low v-necks, hats with lots of veiling and an antique brooch. Find an old shawl or crochet your own. If you’ve time to hunt you needn’t spend much money.
Some of my favourite designers, my favourite looks, one of my favourite photographers and two of my favourite models: Charlotte Martin and Mouche. Perfection.