Inspirational Images: Ossie Clark, 1976

1970s, british boutique movement, Butler & Wilson, celia birtwell, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, quorum, Terence Donovan
ossie celia harpers january 1976

Loose top with huge sleeves tucked at the wrist in orange, blue, green and red silk chiffon print designed by Celia Birtwell; £164. Matching knee length skirt with tucks at the hips and tie waist; Ossie Clark £164, Quorum 54 Radnor Walk, SW3. Art deco necklace in green bakelite and chrome; £20, Butler & Wilson, 189 Fulham Road, SW3

Photographed by Terence Donovan. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, January 1976.

Inspirational Editorials: Pin-up Parade

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, british boutique movement, Inspirational Images, james wedge, Marks and Spencer, miss mouse, swimwear, Wiki
Swimsuit by Miss Mouse

Swimsuit with cigarette packet print by Miss Mouse. Hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Black suede stilettos from Biba.

I have waxed lyrical on the wonders of James Wedge many times before. I’ve even waxed lyrical specifically on the subject of his version of pin-up photography and how it is vastly superior to the current swathe of poorly executed pin-up and burlesque photography. So I need not repeat myself too much. Suffice it to say, this man was looking backwards to a mere twenty/thirty years beforehand, at a time when this was still all generally considered to be rather naff and – also – an affront to the cause of feminism. He was creating images like this, in his darkroom. By hand. By trial and error. No going back if you cock it all up. No ‘vintage’ movement to motivate him. I certainly consider him to be more artist than mere fashion photographer.

Photographed (and hand-painted) by James Wedge. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, May 1974.

Swimsuit by

Swimsuit by Wiki. Swansdown powder-puff from Biba.

Swimsuit by

Swimsuit by Wiki. Red flower from Biba.

wedge4

Red and white top with matching shorts by Miss Mouse. Towelling beach tobe from Marks and Spencer.

Inspirational Editorials: These smocks are the shape of things to come…

1970s, annacat, barry lategan, Boston-151, british boutique movement, Gina Fratini, Ginger Group, janice wainwright, Kumari, Lati Ptochis, Leslie Poole, Malcolm Raines, margit brandt, mary quant, pablo and delia, Pedro Garcia, Scorpio, simon massey, The Sweet Shop, Tony Berkeley, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Smock by

Smock by Leslie Poole for Annacat. Small smock from Little Things.

“This is not a maternity feature, this means you. But what a great year to be pregnant”

Glorious Pre-Raphaelite inspired shoot by Barry Lategan, exactly how I dream of dressing every day. Those hats! …

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, March 1971

Get the look with a gorgeous printed smock dress over at Vintage-a-Peel

Smock by

Smock by Mary Quant Ginger Group. Velvet Holbein hat from The Sweet Shop.

Smock by

Smock by Lati Ptochis at Boston-151. Flower trailer by Pablo & Delia.

Smock and skirt by Tony Berkeley. Shoes by Pedro Garcia. Wristlet by Pablo & Delia. Hat by Malcolm Raines at The Sweet Shop.

Smock and skirt by Tony Berkeley. Shoes by Pedro Garcia. Wristlet by Pablo & Delia. Hat by Malcolm Raines at The Sweet Shop.

Smock by

Smock and skirt by Gina Fratini. Shoes by Pedro Garcia. Hat by Malcolm Raines at The Sweet Shop. Necklace by Pablo & Delia

Smock by

Smock by Janice Wainwright at Simon Massey. Painted hair decoration by Pablo & Delia.

smock 6

Smock by Margit Brandt, skirt by Kumari, both for Scorpio.

Inspirational Editorials: Blouses on Wings

1970s, alice pollock, barry lategan, Bata, british boutique movement, Brosseau, che guevara, Hans Metzen, Inspirational Images, michael chow, platforms, quorum, Reflection, Screaming Mimi, Vogue
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Left: Jersey diamond by Hans Metzen. Red patent platforms by Bata. Hat by Brosseau. / Right: Black and white batwing by Hans Metzen. Platforms by Antonio at Bata International. Sailor hat by Brosseau.

How about that sleeve? Striped jerseys and white silks wider than they’re long.

Satin skirts, all pictures, by Screaming Mini at Reflection, Kensington High Street.

Photographed at Mr Chow’s Montpelier, Knightsbridge. Chess set with fake fur board at Harrods.

I’m always excited to see Alice Pollock anything, anywhere, but this spread features a blouse I have (except mine is in black) in the second image. There’s a good reason why vintage blouses get snapped up so quickly, and this photoshoot proves it…

Photographed by Barry Lategan. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1972

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Blouse by Alice Pollock, with fine faggoting instead of seams, at New Quorum and Che Guevara

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Blouse by Alice Pollock, at New Quorum and Che Guevara

Blouse by Alice Pollock, at Boston 151

Blouse by Alice Pollock, at Boston 151

Inspirational Images: Thea through the tulips

1970s, british boutique movement, Fanny Brown, Inspirational Images, thea porter
Model Fanny Brown wearing patchwork batik shorts and matching shirt, one of Thea's collections she will be taking to New York.

Model Fanny Brown wearing patchwork batik shorts and matching shirt, one of Thea’s collections she will be taking to New York.

Another one of my collection of press images, this time it’s a stunning [if slightly atypical] Thea Porter outfit from May, 1971. Photographer unknown, from Keystone Press Agency Inc.

Inspirational Illustrations: Easy come easy go …to sea

1970s, Angela Landels, british boutique movement, bus stop, Gill y Jacques, harpers and queen, Le Bistingo, lee bender
Left: Cotton crepe dress from Bus Stop, 3 Kensington Church St. / Centre: Silk jersey dress from Gill y Jacques, 47 Charlbert St, NW8 / Right: Ban-lon dress from Le Bistingo, 93 King's Road

Left: Cotton crepe dress from Bus Stop, 3 Kensington Church St. / Centre: Silk jersey dress from Gill y Jacques, 47 Charlbert St, NW8 / Right: Ban-lon dress from Le Bistingo, 93 King’s Road

Illustration by Angela Landels. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers & Queen, July 1972.

Inspirational Images: Biba’s Boutique

1960s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, british boutique movement, Inspirational Images, Michael Cooper, Vogue
Biba

Fashion by post: From Biba’s Boutique at 87 Abingdon Rd., W.8. A postal service for out-of-town shoppers plus a small boutique that stays open every evening until 8 p.m. Above: Black lace over plum (and other colours), 5 gns., in sizes 8-16.

Photographed by Michael Cooper. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, January 1965.

Inspirational Editorials: The romantic way you’ll look this year

1960s, british boutique movement, charles jourdan, david bailey, Inspirational Images, jean muir, jean varon, john bates, Liza Spain, Rayne, Vanessa Frye, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Outfit by John Bates for Jean Varon

Outfit by John Bates for Jean Varon

Photographed by David Bailey. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, January 1968

Dress by Jean Muir - shoes by Rayne

Dress by Jean Muir – shoes by Rayne

Dress by Liza Spain at Vanessa Frye - shoes by Charles Jourdan

Dress by Liza Spain at Vanessa Frye – shoes by Charles Jourdan

Kensington Market: “Do Get in Gear – It’s a Must!”

1970s, british boutique movement, kensington market, petticoat magazine, Vintage Adverts

Scanned from the back of Petticoat, December 1971

One of the most miserable things about reading a magazine from 1971 is seeing such an inviting advert as this, and knowing full well you will never be able to visit. Kensington Market = dreamland for Sixties and Seventies fiends…

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, December 1971

Midnight Blue: Redux

1970s, british boutique movement, Inspirational Images, john cowan, Kelly LeBrock, midnight blue, Peter Burden, Vintage Adverts

A while ago, I posted a remarkable advert for a shop called ‘Midnight Blue’. Scanned from a copy of Ritz, I had never heard of Midnight Blue before or since. Like many posts, it passed into the archives without much fuss. Until I received a comment the other day from the man behind the shop; Peter Burden. Rather than letting the information disappear (with the original post) into the mists of blog history, I thought I should repost the image with the comment from Peter.

Dear Miss Peelpants,

Great to see this shot aired. Coco Fennell, designer daughter of Theo (with whom I used to throw buns around Meridiana (resto designed by Enzo Appicella) in the early 70s) spotted this and sent it to my daughter Alice, because she thought it might be something to do with me. I’m the geezer in the white leather spider jacket at a shoot we did in 1977 somewhere near Oxford. I started Midnight Blue – jeans for trendy toffs – in 1975. We were open until midnight, and our own brand jeans (mostly Fiorucci rip-offs) had a good following for a while. This ad in RITZ magazine was cropped from a landscape poster. David Litchfield who ran RITZ had a room in our building in the Fulham Road. My own fashion instincts were not especially strong, but I tried to find interesting off-centre designers. All the clothes in this shot (by John Cowan) were by a lovely eccentric woman called Carol Lee who lived in Lincolnshire. I don’t know what’s happened to her and I don’t have a stitch of her stuff left. Of interest in the shot, sitting on my left is 17 year-old Kelly Lebrock, just before Leonard remodelled her hair into a kind of gamine, and Clive Arrowsmith shot her for the front of Vogue (or was it Harpers?) She went to Hollywood and starred in Gene Wilder’s Woman in Red. In the poster but out of this shot is Pandora Stevens (d. of Jocelyn) now Delevigne, mother of Poppy and Cara. (I could email a copy of the poster if you like.)

(One of our first posters was by Bob Carlos-Clarke – his first commercial job I believe – using a technique he’d learned from James Wedge. It’s in one of his early books.)

I moved on from the rag trade, and became a writer. My first novel, RAGS, published by Weidenfeld in 1987, was based on my fashion experiences in the 60s/70s, focussing on a fictional BIBA store. The back cover shot in the Roof Garden was by Jill Kennington, one of the models in Antonioni’s BLOW -UP, which was shot in John Cowan’s studio in Pottery Lane, and which starred David Hemmings, whose autobiography I wrote (2004). My tenuous links with fashion are maintained through my lover – soon to be wife – Nina Hely-Hutchinson, a very knowledgeable and instinctive vintage fashionista. She has a place in Ludlow called 55 Mill Street (qv facebook)

Best Regards,
Peter Burden

Vintage Adverts: Midnight Blue