Love Forty

1960s, Berkertex, Daniel Hechter, Foale and Tuffin, George Malyard, Graham Smith, helmut newton, Inspirational Images, Ken Lane, Malyard, Marlborough, mary quant, Queen magazine, Rayne, Vintage Editorials
White crepe dress by Berkertex. Jewelled snood by Graham Smith.

The clothes of the Thirties were capricious, narcissistic and extravagant — the jazz of the Twenties turning soft, like swing – but with the wartime Forties they necessarily became austere and functional.

To compensate, the details kept their extravagance – shirred waists, sweetheart necks, floppy sleeves, Veronica Lake hair.

On this and the following pages we have a minor Forties revival – minor because these clothes are strictly 1968, when women want to dress both practically and frivolously.

I do not endorse this copy, because I would not agree about the clothes of the Thirties being ‘narcissistic’, but I do endorse the photos and the clothes.

Photographed by Helmut Newton.

Scanned from Queen, July 31st 1968.

Red crepe dress by Foale and Tuffin. Hat by Malyard.
Red wool crepe dress by Foale and Tuffin. Gilt snake bracelets by Ken Lane.
Black crepe dress by Daniel Hechter for Bagatel. Beret by Malyard. Shoes by Rayne.
Grey crepe dress by Harriet.
Black checked beige crepe dress with bloused sleeveless top, by Marlborough. Black beret by Mary Quant for Kangol.

Five for the road

1970s, bally, charles jourdan, harpers and queen, Kenneth Griffiths, Mary Graeme, Miss Holmes, platforms, Rayne, shoes
l-r Bally, Charles Jourdan, Mary Graeme, Bally and Charles Jourdan.

August on the steps of the Albert Memorial…

And shoes for the coming season..

Plum and conker coloured with a hint of sobering black for the first days of autumn.

I know nobody likes to hear THAT word in August, but it seems appropriate on a day when I’ve been forced back into brogues by the miserable weather.

Photographed by Kenneth Griffiths.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, August 1974.

l-r Charles Jourdan, nMiss Holmes, Rayne, Rayne.

April Flower Evenings

1970s, belinda bellville, bill gibb, Gina Fratini, Inspirational Images, john bates, oliviero toscani, Rayne, Richard Sharah, Sue & Helen, thea porter, Toscani, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent, zandra rhodes

April Flower Evenings 6

Primrose silk georgette camisole top and handpainted satin jacket by Bellville-Sassoon.

Delicate flower evening dresses, in silks and chiffons… Beauty far beyond the English flower garden…

Photographed by Toscani. Make-up by Richard Sharah.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1975.

April Flower Evenings 1

Honey coloured silk dress by John Bates. Sandals by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

April Flower Evenings 2

Silk chiffon by Zandra Rhodes. Pink sandals by Rayne.

April Flower Evenings 5

Banana silk georgette printed with apricot flowers by Yuki.

April Flower Evenings 4

Pale peach silk chiffon with sheer sleeves by Thea Porter.

April Flower Evenings 3

Snow orchid chiffon by Sue & Helen. White sandals by Rayne.

April Flower Evenings 7

Drift of frilled white silk organza printed with snowdrops by Gina Fratini. Sandals by Rayne.

April Flower Evenings 8

Blackberry printed organza by Gina Fratini.

April Flower Evenings 9

Cream lace jacket and skirt by Bill Gibb.

April Flower Evenings 10

Palest pink silk chiffon by Bill Gibb.

First Essentials

1970s, eric boman, Inspirational Images, janet reger, loungewear, Midas, mild sauce, Rayne, Richard Hamnett, The Savoy, tuttabankem, underwear, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

first essentials 2

Lace and satin nightdress, turquoise and white, by Janet Reger. Mules by Midas.

Photographed by Eric Boman at The Savoy.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1977.

first essentials 1

Silk crepe de chine wrap by Richard Hamnett at Tuttabankem White bra and French knickers by Silhouette at Dickins and Jones. Plastic and marabou shoes by Rayne.

first essentials 4

White layered waist slip by Janet Reger. Clear plastic mules by Midas.

first essentials 3

Briefest white bra and white nyloon very briefs, both by Triumph. Clear plastic mules by Midas.

New Wave Rayne

1970s, cosmopolitan, James Cotier, Rayne, Vintage Adverts

rayne20advert20cosmo20oct2079

Photographed for Rayne by James Cotier – 52°05°N 00°08°E – June 1979.

Original concept by Edward Rayne Jnr.

Clothes by Maxwell Parrish.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, October 1979.

Inspirational Editorials: Tight Fit

1970s, Ace, betsey johnson, Caovilla, clive arrowsmith, Dansez, Fiorucci, Howie, Inspirational Images, manolo blahnik, Maxfield Parris, Rayne, Ritzy, topshop, Walter Steiger

Coat by Andrea Daimond. Yellow bodysuit by Fiorucci. Purple leather shoes by Manolo Blahnik.

Coat by Andrea Diamond. Yellow bodysuit by Fiorucci. Purple leather shoes by Manolo Blahnik.

I’m choosing to ignore the realness of the fur and just see these images as stunning tableaux portraying strong women in dominant poses. I hope you will too…

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, November 1979

Coat by Frank Cooney. Black long sleeve leotard and black footless tights by Dansez from Topshop. Black leather sandals by Manolo Blahnik

Coat by Frank Cooney. Black long sleeve leotard and black footless tights by Dansez from Topshop. Black leather sandals by Manolo Blahnik

Coat by Zwirn. Gold trousers and bustier by Ritzy. Red and gold leather shoes by Caovilla from Rayne.

Coat by Zwirn. Gold trousers and bustier by Ritzy. Red and gold leather shoes by Caovilla from Rayne.

Coat from Konrad. Skintight pink trousers and matching top by Betsey Johnson from Howie, 138 Long Acre. Metallic blue sandals by Walter Steiger.

Coat from Konrad. Skintight pink trousers and matching top by Betsey Johnson from Howie, 138 Long Acre. Metallic blue sandals by Walter Steiger.

Coat from National Fur Company. Strapless sequined top with skintight trousers from Ace. Black suede belt by Maxfield Parris. Black leather sandals by Manolo Blahnik,

Coat from National Fur Company. Strapless sequined top with skintight trousers from Ace. Black suede belt by Maxfield Parris. Black leather sandals by Manolo Blahnik,

Vintage Adverts: Rayne is worth fighting for

1980s, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, Rayne, Uwe Ommer, Vintage Adverts

rayne advert

Photographed by Uwe Ommer at Burnham Beeches, June 1980.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, September 1980

Inspirational Editorials: The rest of the picture

1970s, accessories, Andreas Heumann, Bags, bill gibb, boots, british boutique movement, che guevara, chelsea cobbler, City Lights, Gloves, Inspirational Images, Marbles, Miloré, Moya Bowler, Nigel Lofthouse, platforms, Rayne, shoes, tights, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

accessories chelsea cobbler shoes andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Chestnut leather walking shoes, edged with ocelot-printed calf from The Chelsea Cobbler

There aren’t many accessories shoots worthy of scanning – the majority tend to be fairly static and unimaginative. So kudos to Andreas Heumann for this gorgeous set of pictures which manage to do justice to the contents.

Photographed by Andreas Heumann. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, September 1973

accessories nigel lofthouse bag andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Cream suede handbag with stitched appliques by Nigel Lofthouse at Che Guevara; City Lights Studio. Cream kid gloves by Bill Gibb for Miloré

accessories Clive Shilton bag andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Cinnamon suede clutch bag by Clive Shilton.

accessories gibb gloves andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Marbled scarf by Marbles. Marbled leather gloves by Bill Gibb for Miloré

accessories moya bowler boots andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Black suede ankle boots, furred and laced, by Moya Bowler.

accessories rayne brogues andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Honey suede crocodile print calf lace-ups from Rayne.

Inspirational Images: Butterfly

1970s, clive arrowsmith, Inspirational Images, Rayne, Vogue

rayne butterfly arrowsmith

Shoes by Rayne (the butterfly is real). Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, March 1971

Inspirational Editorials: The romantic way you’ll look this year

1960s, british boutique movement, charles jourdan, david bailey, Inspirational Images, jean muir, jean varon, john bates, Liza Spain, Rayne, Vanessa Frye, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

Outfit by John Bates for Jean Varon

Outfit by John Bates for Jean Varon

Photographed by David Bailey. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, January 1968

Dress by Jean Muir - shoes by Rayne

Dress by Jean Muir – shoes by Rayne

Dress by Liza Spain at Vanessa Frye - shoes by Charles Jourdan

Dress by Liza Spain at Vanessa Frye – shoes by Charles Jourdan