LEFT: Zig-zag Dralaen midi shirt dress, 8 gns., with a charcoal grey ribbed waistcoat. 4 gns., both by Georgina Linhart; pale grey leather boots, Sacha, 9 gns. RIGHT: Swirly skirted printed Dicel crepe dress with tightly laced wide wet-look belt, Simon Massey, £12 5s.; tightly laced suede boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns.
This is definitely the Season of the Midi, which involves a whole new set of fashion rules. Midis look best without an inch of leg showing, which means either long tight-fitting boots to take over where the midi finishes, or coloured tights matching clumpy-heeled shoes. So keep gulping; daily doses will keep you in the pink, fashion wise.
Aside from all the dreamy autumnal clothes and the fact that the blonde model is Charlotte Martin, it’s so lovely to see Terry de Havilland’s early and legendary three-tier wedges. As so often with Terry’s shoes, they are erroneously credited to the stockists (here ‘Jolly Boy’), but it’s still lovely to see them.
LEFT: Petrol blue and yellow side-split jacquard jersey midi dress, Angela at London Town, 10 gns.; knee-high navy canvas boots, Biba, £7 105.; dusty blue tights, Mary Quaff, 9s. 11d.; black leather belt with oval gilt eyelets, Strides, 84s. RIGHT: Bottle green micro-speckled jacquard jersey zipped-through midi dress, Gladrags, 10 gns.; Neapolitan printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 63s.; black canvas boots. Biba, £7 10s.
LEFT: Terracotta and create button-through Courtelle neospun jacquard coat dress (with matching trousers not shown), Alan Rodin, 15 gns.; sheer smokey brown tights, Berkshire, 9s.; swirly rust and cream printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 63s. RIGHT: Maroon and beige jacquard jersey midi dress with plain jersey skirt, Angela at London Town, 11i gns.; sheer black coffee tights, Wolford, 13s.; pearlised brown strappy shoes, Mary Quant, 75s.
LEFT: Toffee and grey striped wool midi vest dress, Kadix, £7 10s.; tan’ wood and leather thonged belt, Adrien Mann, 90s.; burnt orange tights, Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; tightly laced rust suede boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns. RIGHT: Chevron printed Cossack dress in black, brown and grey Courtelle jacquard knit, Georgina Linhart, 13 gns.; beige leg-hugging boots, from a selection at Russell and Bromley.
LEFT: Leather tasselled bitter chocolate angora wool jersey shirt dress, Miss Feraud, £13 10s.; brown and pink geometric printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 635.; rust suede lace-up boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns. RIGHT: Clingy plum and cream honeycomb-printed wool jersey vest dress, Pourelle, 10 gns.; triangular suede linked belt, Adrien Mann, 65s.; tight-fitting beige boots, from a selection at Russell and Bromley.
Blouse, skirt and apron from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Jewellery from Chelsea Antique Market. Crowthers hat. Yves Saint Laurent espadrilles.
With the colours and the mood of an open air market are ribbons bordering the prettiest pinnies and the sweetest yokes.
Fashion by Sue Hone
Photographed by David Finch.
Scanned from Petticoat Magazine, 7th August 1971.
Smock and gauchos from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Hope and Eleanor pendant. Shawl by Ragamuffin. Biba mules.
Smock and skirt from Mrs Casswell for Angela at Rosie Nice, Kensington Antique Market. Shirt by Van der Fransen. Adrien Mann bracelets. Bermona hat.
Flower and net trimmed blocked felt perchers. Both may be hired and viewed at the Diane Logan Hat Museum Department, 40 Chiltern Street, W1. Lace umbrella to hire from Essences.
Add a touch of delicate, soft lace trimming to your clothes and accessories this summer for a really feminine, fragile look.
Hair by Colin at Ricci Burns.
Photographed by Roger Charity.
Scanned from Honey, May 1974.
Floor-length satin cross-over robe with fine lace trim and button-through neck, £12.50 from a selection of originals at Essences, 410 King’s Road, SW3.
Pin-striped cotton pouch hag with antique lace trim and pearl clasp, £5 from Rosie Nice, 12 Clifton Road, W9. Coffee nylon lace gloves with button trim, F G Shave approx 90p, from D H Evans.
Patchwork embroidery and lace, satin-lined cotton bag, £5 from Rosie Nice, 12 Clifton Road, W9.
Coffee and cream lace-trimmed loose blouse with tie-waist and ruched shoulders, matching square-neck top with shoestring straps, John Craig £8.50, from Just Looking, King’s Road, SW3 an branches ; Stop the Shop. King’s Road, SW3. Mother-of-pearl necklace, Butler & Wilson £5.50
Cotton gingham camisole top with broderie anglaise trim and long matching button-through flounced skirt, Jaki Ross at Jon Elliot £18.90, from Merle, 42 Thurloe Street, SW7 ; Jane Norman, 153 Oxford Street, WI , Super Star, Leeds; Quids In, Canterbury. China necklace, Rosie Nice 80p; carved rose bangle £1.25, Baggage & General at Peter Robinson.
Black string lace gloves with fine multi-coloured stripes £3.50, from a selection at Essences, 410 King’s Road, SW3. Black lace wide-brimmed hat with red rose, Diane Logan, £5, from Diane Logan, 40 Chiltern Street, W1.
Red spotty blouse in burnt out crepe, worn over black, red and white printed Dycella skirt by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Red tights by Lovely Lady. Scarf by Jasper. Black leather t-bar shoes from Sacha. Bag and bangles from a selection at Jolly and Marsh. Sweetheart brooch from Universal Witness. / Red cloche hat by Titfers. Dress in three different prints by Van der Fransen. Tights by Mary Quant. Shoes by Sacha. Red gloves from Van der Fransen. Necklace and bangles from Jolly and Marsh, Kensington Market. / Little pink bows on a white moss crepe dress by Florrie Carr. Artificial flowers in hair are by Fogg and Wakefield.
The main attraction of this summer’s printed dress is their little-girl, Sunday-best quality. The star fabric is floral crepe-de-Chine, now beautifully revived, featuring softly shaped skirts, Peter Pan collars and puff sleeves.
Another flawless example of early Seventies nostalgia for the Thirties and Forties, which might seem frivolous or twee if it wasn’t in the talented hands of Mr Peccinotti.
Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, March 1971.
Multi coloured rayon crepe dress from a nearly new selection at Van der Fransen. Blue suede shoes by Mary Quant. / Calf-length crepe de Chine dress by Marielle. Black leather high heeled shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Yellow sisal hat by Jean-Charles Brosseau. Crepe de Chine dress by Mary Quant. Lilac suede shoes by Mary Quant.
Brown cotton voile dress and tights by Mary Quant. White strappy sandals by Ravel. / Brown rayon jersey dress by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Beige suede slingbacks by Mary Qant. Scarf from a selection at Rosie Nice, Kensington Market. / Navy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Navy spotted rayon crepe dress from Van der Fransen. Brown suede shoes by Sacha. / Lilac cloche by Edward Mann. Rayon georgette blouse and purple velvet skirt both from Crowthers. Mauve patent sandals from Ravel.
Brown printed georgette suit from Bus Stop. Green leather wedge heeled shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Burgundy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Black georgette suit from Bus Stop. Black three bar shoes by Sacha. / Green straw hat from a selection at Van der Fransen. Rayon georgette dress by Mary Quant. Green leather shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Yellow hat by Jean-Charles Brosseau. Red, white and bloue dress by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Patent wedge sandals by Ravel.
Pale mustard puff sleeved dress by Biba. Brown patent two-strap shoes by Sacha. Scarf by Jasper. / Cream sisal hat by Bermona. Black tea dance dress with delicate white flowery print by Biba. White leather sandals by Ravel. / Navy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Navy cotton dress by Harriet. Black shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop.
Tissavel-lined Galaxy coat by Beged’Or approx. £50; cotton blouse by Mexicana, £13; fur fabric jeans by Newmans, 12 gns; hairy slipper boots at Russell & Bromley, £6 19s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; hatband made from an Estonian tie at the Russian Shop, 7s 6d; fur bag at The Souk, £3 5s; wool gloves at Dickins & Jones, 10s:
Leather and fur get more expensive every year. It’s not only the taxes and rising costs of production. It’s just that there aren’t enough good animal skins for leather around to meet the consumer demand. Furs are there in quantity for the fabulously rich. Luckily a good substitute has been found – the nylon-spun, man-made sort. Some, especially in the leather field, are so like the real thing the only way you can tell the difference is by the smell. Take the white coat on pages 46 and 47. It’s fake and costs about £50. It has a double in real fur and leather for £270. Made by the same people who have duplicated most of their collection this way and it takes an eagle eye and nose to tell the difference. Others are just furry, woolly fabrics, obviously not imitating some four-legged friend, which is one of the nicest things about them. This fur fabric is now getting the treatment it deserves. Nairn Williamson (more famous for their Vinyl floor and wall coverings) were the first to see its potential and got six designers to use their Velmar fur fabric in their winter collections. Jane Whiteside for Stirling Cooper (new label getting famous fast for their beautiful jersey co-ordinates) was the cleverest of them all. She used the best sludgy colours, mixed it with needlecord to make a group of jackets and coats to go with trousers, skirts and blouses. Borg (American originated and the pioneers in England of this deep pile fabric) has been around for a long time, mostly on the inside of duffle and raincoats but it’s on the outside as a normal fabric that it looks its best. Next winter there will be a lot more of it around, now that designers are getting less snobby about plastics. Not only is it as warm as fur, it is, of course, much cheaper and you don’t smell like a wet dog when you come in from the rain, either. So you can wear it herding sheep on lost weekends, or in town queuing for the cinema without any guilt feelings about ruining your assets.
Insert obligatory ‘I don’t agree with the thrust of the argument for fake furs as just a financial consideration here’ caveat from me, your content provider. Don’t shout at me, basically. But it’s an interesting insight into the mindset of 1970, and the proliferation of fake furs and skins at that time. It’s also a breathtakingly styled and photographed work of art from Caroline Baker and Jonvelle.
Fashion by Caroline Baker.
Photographed by Jonvelle.
Scanned from Nova, January 1970.
Mediaeval velvet applique dress by Laura Jamieson at The Sweetshop, 20 gns; Tissavel and Galaxy waistcoat by Beged’Or, £22.
Velmar jacket and needlecord trousers by Stirling Cooper, £8 10s., £5 1Gs; leggings by Chelsea Cobbler, to order, 10 gns; cotton shirt from selection at Dada, Kensington Antique Market from 2 gns.
Acrilan jacket by Lizzie Carr approx. 24 gns; suede trousers by Morel, 17 gns, tied with leather strips from John Lewis Haberdashery Dept, 1s 10d per yard; wellingtons at Russell and Bromley, £3 19s; woven sash wrapped around neck at Herbert Johnson, 25s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; wool gloves at Selfridges, &s 11d
Velmar and Courtelle trousers by Martha Hill, approx. 8 gns; poncho at Peter Robinson, £7; wool shirt by Stirling Cooper, £4 5s; studded wristlet by Knees at Kensington Antique Market, 1 gn; suede moccasin boots by Anello & Davide, £8 15s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; sheepskin rug from The Souk from £3 19s 6d to £6; flask from Kensington Antique Market.
Velmar fur fabric floor length coat trimmed with canvas by Mog, £20, over long cotton nightgown by Laura Ashley, £5; knitted wool socks at Feathers, £1 1s 6d
Velmar coat with needlecord and zipper trims (top left) by Stirling Cooper, 18 gns; pale suede and leather lace-up boots by Kurt Geiger, 35 gns; wool gloves at Selfridges, 8s 11d; leather belt by The Wild Mustang Manufacturing Co., approx. £3 12s 6d; fur shepherdess hat, bag and drinking flask from a selection at Kensington Antique Market
Velmar jacket and needlecord trousers (top right) by Stirling Cooper, £12 19s 6d, £5 10s; big polo-neck ribbed Shetland wool sweater at Aquascutum, £6 15s; corrugated leather lace-up boots at Russell and Bromley, £29 19s; knitted Aran mitts at Selfridges, 16s 11d; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s, furry bag from a selection at Kensington Antique Market.
Long creamy cotton dress by Foale and Tuffin. Blue cotton paisley blouse and skirt by Foale and Tuffin. Embroidered woollen belt around head by Rosie Nice in Kensington Market.
Sunny Spain conjured up visions of hot summer days in picturesque surroundings, ideal settings for 19’s summer fashions. And we had a fantastic oppotunity when 4S Travel arranged a trip to Malaga and Torremolinos. We flew BUA Super Jet to stay at the Hotel Al Andalus, within easy reach of the mountains overlooking the Costa del Sol. Here we discovered quaint villages, sun-drenched and white-washed, their customs and dress crystallised in the past. No cars to be seen, only mules and donkeys. Our clothes echoed the feel of these places – colours stark black and white, brightened with touches of gayer hues, clean hot printed cottons, soft peasant blouses, sandals, light fishnet shawls, casual sun hats. The garments are easy to take care of, and enhance a tan – midi skirts that button to above the knee and give alluring glimpses of brown thigh, and large brightly printed squares of fabric which can be used as shawls, or skirts tied at the side.
Making me yearn for a proper holiday. The closest I’ll get is looking at this editorial whilst sitting on the balcony, trying to avoid all humans for the time being. I hope it brightens your day as well…
Blonde model is Willy van Rooy.
Photographed by John Bishop.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1970.
Black velour towelling dress by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Shawl by J. C. Brosseau from Feathers. Green and red snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland from Jolly Boy in Kensington Market. Belt bought locally.
Black and white cototn printed skirt and top by Tony Berkeley. Shawl from J. C. Brosseau. Shoes by Sacha.
White cotton skirt, blouse and bolero all by Annie for Rosie Nice in Kensington Market. Bright red and green dress by Foale and Tuffin. Black fishnet shawls by J. C. Brosseau from Feathers.
White towelling hat by Bermona. Dress by Sujon. Shoes from Ravel.
Dress by Tony Berkeley. White patent shoes by Sacha.
Dusty pink skirt and blouse by Ian Batten. Brown felt hat by J. C. Brosseau from Feathers.
Both outfits by Tony Berkeley. Both pairs of shoes by Ravel.
Dress by Foale and Tuffin. Snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland at Jolly Boy. Belt bought locally.
White midi skirt by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Red and white silk rayon blouse by Annie for Rosie Nice. Mock snakeskin shoes by Dolcis.
Originality being one of the spices of life, isn’t it about time you did a bit of gentle artwork on some of your plainer clothes? We appliquéd satin designs on unadorned cotton T-shirts, but if you haven’t the patience to appliqué clouds with silver linings, how about tie dye instead?
Hoping this gives some inspiration to keep yourself occupied and looking groovy over the next weeks and months of isolation! In all seriousness, I hope all my dear readers are safe and well. Since my Vintage business is on ice for a little while, I have brought magazines home to scan and hope to keep you entertained and offer some escapism (plus there are years of archives to get through!). There will probably be extra stuff over on my Instagram as well so do go and follow me there.
(Instructions on how to copy these designs are at the bottom of the post.)
Set and designs by Nike Williams.
Photographs by Roger Stowell.
Drawings by H. Abbo.
Scanned from Honey, August 1970.
Rising sunset appliquéd onto a plain white jersey vest by Syndica. Shiny satin trousers by Second Skin. Red wet-look boots by Sacha.
Riot of hearts appliquéd on to a long plain black vest dress, Syndica. Beaded leather thonged armband from Bus Stop
White cotton jersey long vest dress by Syndica, tie-dyed yellow with large white circles. Patchwork belt by Fifth Avenue. Beaded thonged rope by Bus Stop. Silk scarf from Kensington Market.
Satin appliquéd steamboat on a plain scarlet cotton jersey tunic, Syndica. Patchwork leather belt from Fifth Avenue. Canvas sunhat by Herbert Johnson. Satin trousers by Second Skin.
Pink cotton jersey tunic, Syndica, tie-dyed plum with a pink border print. Stretchy webbing belt from Fenwicks. Green perspex sunshade from Lillywhites.
Pink button-up vest, Chester Martin, tie-dyed red with pink leaf pattern. Red cotton scarf from Littlewoods. White plastic sunshade from Lillywhites.
‘Next to nothing’ nylon bra by Twilfit. Black lycra pntie girdle by Dorothy Perkins. Sheer smoky stockings by Mary Quant. / Black and white nylon stretch boxer briefs from Marks and Spencer.
We know a girl… who can’t last the day without lashings of spray. We know a girl… who gets quite high on a bucket of tide. We know a girl… who gets no elation from dusty dehydration. We know a girl… who gets all her kicks from aquatic dips. We know a girl… who can’t get enough of that H20 stuff. We know a girl… who’s got pneumonia.
Stunning editorial shot by Hans Feurer in two parts, half waterproof outerwear and half delicious underwear. Waterproofs next time…
Photographed by Hans Feurer in the Canary Islands.
Scanned from Honey, February 1970.
Light white cut out nylon mini slip from Dorothy Perkins. / Coin spotted camisole bra with matching tricot and lycra porthole-design pantie girdle, both by Lovable. Stockings by Sunarama.
Soft Celon criss cross plunge line bra by Gossard. Pantie girdle by Kayser. Stockings by Sunarama.
Transparent nylon and lycra bra and pantie girdle both from Marks and Spencer. Copper stockings from Sunarama. Pearls from Kensington Market.
Chestnut and cream flared mini slip with see through midriff by Kayser. / Shiny wet look bra slip by Dorothy Perkins.
White cobweb nylon and cotton lace chemise slip by Biba. Pearls from Kensington Market.
Cotton print pinafore over a sweet flowered dress. Deep ruffles on shoulders and a big beautiful bonnet to match. By Titfers at Miss Selfridge. Red button shoes at Anello & Davide.
Long dresses and skirts in crepe and cotton prints – related to others just as small, fresh, sharp or soft, on pinafore smocks and aprons. These are not so much to keep you clean, more to make you look prettier; and you can be dairy maids, kitchen maids, Kate Greenaway girls all through summer.
And so began the kickback against all things clean, crisp and space age…
Photographed by Duc.
Scanned from Vogue, April 1971.
Fine floppy fluted crepe de chine dress by Marielle. Liberty lawn pinafore by Angela at London Town. Brown boots by Moya Bowler for Edouard Jerrold at Kurt Geiger. Dairy cream cotton smock dress. Leg o’mutton sleeves, buttons up the back, print of wild pale roses and primrose ribbons. Gauzy white pinafore, lace and rose pink ribbons. Both by Gina Fratini. Shoes at Anello & Davide. Lacy pink silk bonnet at Sharon’s Shoppe, Kensington Market.Cotton and rayon wrap, two sizes of polka dot, white on cherry red patches. By Mary Quant Ginger Group. Cherry and red stripe cotton apron by In Pressler. Natural straw hat at Herbert Johnson.
Every designer is saying it loudly, clearly, boldly, prettily… the hand-made look is here. Maybe it started as a reaction against the badly-made, thrown-together, hotch-potched dolly era; maybe this reaction set the tide running for antique markets where painstaking workmanship could be picked up still; maybe it’s that elusive feeling in the air that a designer’s sensitive seismograph picks up and translates in his own distinctive handwriting. Whatever it is – it’s here.
Jorn Langberg of Christian Dior – London plots it out in warm brown velvet, got together with a brief, embroidered waistcoat and a deeply embroidered peasant skirt… at the other end of the scale the Dress Den at Kensington Antique Market tops a thick aubergine cotton skirt spilled with bright wool flowers with a scrap of bolero, pictorially embroidered over every centimetre of the scalloped front. If you’re skilled with a needle, have a good eye for colour and shape there’s no reason why you can’t put yourself ahead of the game. But this is a painstaking look, a one-off original look that can’t be tossed off in an evening by a hopeful but bodgy amateur needlewoman.
Both shirts by Jeff Banks; all accessories from Kensington Antique Market.
Fashion by Lorna Cattell.
Photographed by Frank Horvat.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1971.
