Vogue

Flower Face

1970s, bianchini, clive arrowsmith, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, pierre cardin, Vogue

Flower face, eyebrows powdered out and eyes shadowed deeper, brighter; the heart of Cardin’s morning glory dress of Bianchini organza finely pleated into a double ruff to frame the head. Make-up by Gil of Geminesse.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1970.

Meet. Dream. Talk. Touch. Trevira. Terrific!

1970s, austin reed, Cojana, Eva Sereny, frank usher, jean allen, Kati at Laura Phillips, Roter, trevira, Vintage Adverts, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Dress in Harlequin print by Kati at Laura Phillips. / Peasant style dress by Kati at Laura Phillips.

I can’t say I’d normally be rushing to lovingly scan a Trevira advertorial, but then not all Trevira adverts were photographed by Eva Sereny!

All man’s accessories from Austin Reed.

Photographed by Eva Sereny.

Scanned from Vogue, March 1978.

Scoop neck sweater by Dalkeith. Skirt by Dereta.
Hooded cape and long evening dress by Roter.
Dress and cape as before. His suit by Austin Reed.
Two piece by Frank Usher. / Top and skit by Cojana.
Evening dress by Jean Allen. Man’s suit by Steegan.

Grès by Bailey

1970s, david bailey, Inspirational Images, madame grès, Uncategorized, Vogue
Madame Grès’s canary pleated bra and skirt: Triangle bra top, tied with shoestrings at the neck and back, silk jersey skirt finely pleated over a yellow crepe petticoat. Silk organza overdress baring shoulders. Silk jersey by Racine and organza by Veron.

The Madame Grès exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle is still one of my all-time favourites. I can’t quite believe it was ten years ago – and little did I realise how precious international travel would become!

I was drawn to scan this incredible piece by her today, and when I looked at my post from 2011 I realise that it was one of those I photographed. Well, I pretty much photographed them all, but it was one of the chosen ones for my post. And although my tastes and style have changed somewhat since then, I would still count an original Madame Grès as my holiest of holy grails.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, March 1973.

Go Jet

Antiquarius, barbara daly, barry lategan, Butler & Wilson, Cathee Dahmen, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, pablo and delia, Vogue
Spangled georgette ruff cape and dress by Pablo and Delia, about £90 at Browns. Rings and bangles from Butler and Wilson, Antiquarius.

Modelled by Cathee Dahmen.

Hair by John at Leonard. Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, January 1973.

Eye Catching

1970s, beauty, david bailey, Demas, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, jean muir, Make-up, Vogue

Helga, half-Austrian, half Irish/American and twenty-one this month, with new eye-catching make-up: Leichner’s theatrical grease stick in Chrome with Carmine 1 over it above the eye hollow. Foundation: Blend of Pearl with Pink on Pink Glowtone over cheeks, Alletta lipstick, all Kamera Klear. Jean Muir’s silk crepe jersey dress, pink coral flower brooch with earrings to match by Demas.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, March 1st 1970.

Blue Baloo

1970s, barry lategan, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, pablo and delia, Revlon, Sue Baloo, Vogue
Model Sue Baloo, brightly glowing with Revlon’s Ultima 11 Dresden Peach Cream Foam smoothed over her face and neck, then dusted lightly with Transluscent Face Powder – her cheeks learning the blues in Lapis Blue eyeshadow from the new Silk Print Eye Collection, blending into its compact partner, Sari Pink on the eyelids with Carbon Blue Lash Makeup Automatic intensifying her grey eyes. Blue Baloo’s lips are smiling in Rich Rich Russet – a stunningly clear bright red from the Couture Lip Collection; her hair is drawn back by Oliver at Leonard under a leather, feather and wooden bead belt wound around her head of brilliant blue and yellow ochre with medallions painted in powder blue, by Pablo & Delia.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, February 1971.

The World’s Most Beautiful Lingerie

1970s, Bob Carlos Clarke, janet reger, lingerie, underwear, Vintage Adverts, Vogue

Photographed by Bob Carlos Clarke.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1978.

Clothes for the Adventurers

1970s, bill gibb, clive arrowsmith, Jacob Schlaepfer, manolo blahnik, Piero de Monzi, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, zandra rhodes, zapata
Bill Gibb’s mixture of sequins, leather and silver chrysanthemums. Sequin hood and cowl, dolman blouse glistening under leather waistcoat, leather skirt flared from basque, printed with chrysanthemums. £54, £30, £86 at Lucienne Phillips. Sequined fabric by Jacob Schlaepfer.

The wilder shores of fashion

I was mainly scanning this spread because I’ve just listed a Zandra Rhodes dress which I think must be from the same collection over on Etsy, but thought I might as well put them here too – especially because of that iconic Bill Gibb photo (used for the cover of Iain R. Webb’s definitive book about Gibb, seemingly fetching a pretty penny on Amazon these days). These top-stitched jerseys were a signature look for her in this period and mine also has the Piero de Monzi label. Marc Bolan had a top version in various colours and levels of frilly extravagance.

(If you’re interested in the Zandra Rhodes dress, click here to view it on Etsy.)

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, September 15th 1972.

Zandra Rhodes’s waterfall of unfinished jersey. Dolman sleeved, with lettuce edges and ruching stitched in turquoise, blue and scarlet. To order from Piero de Monzi. Cream leafy leather shoes by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
Zandra Rhodes’s firebird chiffon decorated with satin lilies, frilled seams, the skirt many yards of lightest jersey gathered up here and there. At Piero de Monzi. Jersey by Racine. Bill Gibb’s curves of ivory jersey, gathered and split skirt and dolman blouse pinned with flowers, ribbons and ostrich feathers. £76 at Liberty. Sandals, £14.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata

Landscape in Leather

1960s, Adrian George, elton john, Gervase, Jim O'Connor, Julian Cottrell, Mensday, menswear, mr freedom, ossie clark, patrick procktor, Tommy Roberts, Vogue
Simply sky, cloud, tree and grass sewn on the back of a brief bright jacket, pilot shape, all leather, buttoned both sides, worn with high-waisted trousers, sky blue silk shirt.

The RCA’s School of Fashion is a great forcing ground for young designers. This year’s show proved the point again, with looks both space-age and romantic, the best in fashion for men… the man in the landscape is Gervase, pop singer with new release, “Pepper Grinder”. And the man responsible for the leather landscape, Jim O’Connor, made a gold lurex evening suit that could outshine Elvis Presley; a memorable droopy satin dressing gown and pyjamas silk-screened in rainbow colours with the words “there will never be another you”.

I would walk over hot coals for that jacket. Jim O’Connor would go on to design for Tommy Roberts’s Mr Freedom boutique and created the legendary winged boots (as worn by Elton John) amongst many other iconic designs.

There’s not a huge amount out there about Gervase Griffiths, what there is mainly relates to his time with Patrick Procktor and those creative circles (see here where there is also a connection to Ossie Clark), but here’s a link to the aforementioned Pepper Grinder which is all the baroque psychedelic whimsy you would expect from 1968.

Photographed by Julian Cottrell-Adrian George.

Scanned from Vogue, September 1968.

Anjelica Huston by David Bailey

1970s, anjelica huston, david bailey, elizabeth arden, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Piero de Monzi, Vogue, zandra rhodes

Make-up by Elizabeth Arden. Hair by Oliver at Leonard.

Print silk dress by Zandra Rhodes at Piero de Monzi.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, 15th September 1971.